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will testify) hath no small number nor ill managed, and is without compare the best horsman living, taking delight dayly, although hee bee now threscore and eleven years old, to see his horses practice.
March 22. I gave 5 shillings in earnest for my coach-hire to London, 20s. in all he is to have.
March 27. I tooke leave of my friends ; my cousin Dorothy Witherly gave me ten shillings, my aunt Bendish gave me a ringe.
March 28. I set out towards London ; Mr. Arrowsmith and my brother accompanied mee as far as Attleborough ; this night wee layd at Barton mills; I had the kings chamber for my lodging, where Charles the first once layd : upon the wall, between the door and the chimney, there is written with the kings owne hande Caualleiro Honrado.
March 29. We bayted at Chesterford, and lodged at Bishop Stafford at the George, this day I had much discourse with Mr. Bedingfield, about his travailes in Flanders, Artois, Brabant, &c. wee had to our suppers pike and crafish.
March 30. By two of the clock in the afternoon wee gat to London, where Mr. Uvedal and Mr. Rand met mee at the Green Dragon, I waited upon Mr. Howells family, delivered a letter to my cousin Betty Cradock, and laid in Clerkenwell.
March 31. I measured the pell mell in St. James Parke, which is above twelve hundred paces longe. I went to Morgan's Garden at Westminster; St. Pauls church is 43 of my paces broad, Westminster Abbey is 33, Christchurch at Norwich 28, Christchurch at Canterbury is 30.
April the 1. I took money for my journey, at a goldsmith's in Lumbardstreet, ten pound; most of it in gold and · French coyne.
April 2. I took leave of my friends in London. My cousin Garway, my cousin Cradock, Mr. Uvedale, and Mr. Hollingworth, accompanied mee this night to Gravesend; wee had a pleasant passage downe the river of Thames, sometimes sayling, sometimes rowing, close by many hundred brave ships which trade to most parts of the known world. About 1 in the morning my friends left mee, and I went to bed at the blew Anchor to refresh mee against the morrow.
April 3. I rode from Gravesend through Rochester to Sittenborne. Rochester hath a pretty cathedral church, in which is a neat quire; and a bridge over the Medway inferior to few; it is extreamly high and long, the water runs under it with such a force at lowe water, that all the river is covered with a white foame. From Sittenburne I took a fresh horse, and rode fiften miles further to Canterbury, through a pleasant countrey, having the sight of the river most part of the way on my left hand; the cherry grounds on both, in great numbers, in which the trees are planted equi-distantly and orderly. I went to Christchurch, the cathedral church at Canterbury, which is an extreame neat church, very long, 30 paces broad. I saw in it the Black Prince's tombe; the painted glasse, most of which is of a fine blew colour, is excellent: the front is neat, having two steeples on each side, the tower of the crosse isles is handsome. There is an extreame bigge steeple at the east end begun, but finished no higher than the church. Under the quire is another church, which is made use of by the Walloons. There is a double crosse in this church. In Canterbury are fiften parishes. Hence I roade to Dover, and had a sight of the land in France three miles before I came to my journey's end. This night I lay'd at Mr. Carlisle's, the clarke of the passage, at the Kingshead.
April 4. I walked to the seaside, where I found very large sea girdles, some seastarres, many lympits, and divers hearbs. In the afternoon I saw Dover castle, a very large one, and situated upon an high rock, with many fine roomes in it. They shew mee the horn which was blown at the building of the castle, which is made of brasse. I saw likewise a very longe gun called Basiliscus, 23 foot 8 inches long, which was very neatly carved. Captain John Stroade is Mr. of the castle.
April 5. I went to sea to see them catch lobsters, sea spiders, wilkes, Spanish crabs, crabwilkes, or Bernardi eremitæ, &c. Wee gat our passe portes, and
April 6. Betimes in the morning, wee set sayle for Calais in the packet boat; wee gave five shillings a piece for our passage, and having a fair winde, wee gat in four houres time into Calais roade, from whence a shallop fetch'd us to shoare.
At our entryng of the port wee payd threepence a piece
for our heads ; they searched my portmantle at the gate and the custom house, for which I was to pay 5 sols. After that agreed with the messenger for 40 livres to Paris. I dined at Monsieur la Force his house, at the sighne of the Dragon, and so walked out to see the towne. I was not sick at all in coming over from Dover to Calais, upon the sea, but yet could hardly forbear spuing at the first sight of the French women: they are most of them of such a tawny, sapy, base complection, and have such vgly faces, which they here set out with a dresse would fright the divell. They have a short blew coat, which hath a vast thick round rugge, in the place of the cape, which they either weare about their necks or pull over their heads, after such a manner as tis hard to guesse which is most deformed, their visages or their habits. This afternoon I went to the church which is a fair one, dedicated to our Blessed Lady; the large marble altar is noble, many chappells as to St. Peter, and others, are well adorned; in an oval chappell, behinde the altar, I saw the priests instruct the common people, and the young folkes of the towne, in matters of religion, and learne them to say their prayers. I went to a convent of Cordeliers, where Père Barnatie, whose right name is Dungan, an Irishman, was very civill to us, and shew all about the convent, and had much discours with us about England, and other countries. Wee saw a monastery of nuns; their altar in their chappell was covered with very rich lace. The Port Royall is a very stately building. I agreed with the messenger for forty livres to Paris, and
April 7. Wee set forward about 2 of the clock in the afternoon, and got to Boulogne 7 leagues, where I saw the Port. The buildings here, as at Calais, are of stone, and the street evenly paved, but there are very few shops.
April 8. Wee dined at Monstreuil. There they search my portmantle again, and I, not knowing I was to take a passe at Calais, was put to some inconvenience, and had like to lose my stockins, which were in my portmantle; but that one that travayled along with mee could speake both English and French, who perswaded [them] I was no merchant, and with fair words I got of. This night I layd at Bernay.
April 19. Wee dined at Abbeville, a great towne, built
much after the English fashion, with wooden houses. I saw St. Voluhran's church, which hath a most stately front with two steeples in it, and a great deal of neat carving both in the stone and in the wood [of] the gates. I layd this night at Pois, a small towne.
April 20. I got to Beauvais, time enough (if I had listed) to heare masse; however, I went to see St. Pierre's church, which is an extream high one, and very stately. The North and South ends are most noble, the church paved with marble, checquered with stone: there is no building westward, beyond the cross isle, which makes the church but short; but if there were a body answerable to the rest, I think it might compare with most churches in Christendome. This night I layd at Tilierre. This day was the first day in which I saw vineyards, pilgrims, or was sprinkled with holy water.
Wee roade this day divers times beteewn rowes of apple trees a great waye; they are likewise set here orderly as the cherrytrees in Kent. Most of the country betwixt Calais and Paris is open, and sewen with corn, so as wee had fine prospects upon the top of every hill.
April 11, St. v. 21, stylo novo. Wee bayted at Beaumont, where after dinner each of us gave a messenger trente solz, for his care of us in our journey.
This after noon wee rode through St. Dinnis, where there is a noted church, in which are a great manye stately tombes of the Kings of France and other nobles. About four of the clock wee entered Paris, just by Maison des Enfans Trouvés, so through Fauxbourg St. Denis, and other places to the sighne of Ville de Soissons, dans rüe de la Vererie, where the messenger lodges. This night I walked about to see Pont Neuf, upon which standes a noble copper statua of Henry the fourth, the statuas of our Saviour, and the Samaritan woman, by a delicat fountain, made in the shape of a huge cockle-shell, which allwayes runs over. I went to Monsieur Michel de Clere, who lives in Rüe de Chevalier de Guet, and tooke an hundred liures of him, I went and hired a chamber in Rüe St. Zacharie for 7 liures par mois, and so, je vous souhaitte le bon soir.
The following unfortunately is the only letter, which has been met with, from Sir Thomas to his son Edward during his Tour in France and Italy. The letter to which it is a reply is wanting
: Dr. Browne to his Son Edward. DEARE SONNE EDWARD,-I recaived yours of Sep. 23. I am glad you have seene more cutt for the stone, and of different sex and ages ; if opportunitie seemeth, you shall doe well to see some more, which will make you well experienced in that great operation, and almost able to performe it yourself upon necessitie, and where none could do it. Take good notice of their instruments, and at least make such a draught thereof, and especially of the dilator and director, that you may hereafter well remember it, and have one made by it. Other operations you may perhaps see, now the sumer is over; as also chymistrie and anatomie, The sicknessel being great still, fewe I presume will hasten over. Present my services and thancks unto Dr. Patin. I hope Dr. Wren is still in Paris.? I should be glad the waters of Bourbon might benefitt Sir Samuel :3 and those of Vic Mr. Trumbull. God bee praysed that you recovered from the small pox, which may now so embolden you, as to take of, at least abate, the sollicitude and fears which others have. Mr. Briot4 may at his pleasure attempt at translation, for though divers short passages bee altered or added, and one [or] two chapters also added, yet there is litle to be expunged or totally left out; and therefore may beginne without finding inconvenience : in my next I will send you some litle directions for a chapter or two to be left out, and
1 The plague which was so fatal in England.
4 Briot. Peter Briot translated a number of English Works into French-a History of Ireland ; an Account of the natural productions of England, Scotland, and Wales ; Lord's History of the Banians ; Ricault's History of the Ottoman Empire. He appears from the present letter, to have had some intention of translating Pseudodoxia Epidemica, but probably abandoned it : for the only French translation I have seen bears the date of 1738, and is from the seventh edition, viz, that of 1672.