This habit is a salutary warning to the uncivil, but it was backed up by the example of the Rajah. In a private letter to a country friend, in which Mrs. McDougall mentions to her correspondent how much they had been shocked by the manners of some Indian visitors, and says, 'No wonder that the Mussulmen in India have little respect for the religion of their masters, if they treat them with so little fellow-feeling,' she adds, 'We are not subject to such things here, for the Rajah sets an example of unvaried kindness and indulgence to his servants, treating them as brothers, and of course he is loved. I hope that you will see Sir J. Brooke. I should like him to go and stay with you. He would be very happy if you would let him have a fire in his bedroom and a sofa by his fire, and would not have parties to meet him, but let him sit all the morning in his room and come out as he liked, and have some music in the evening and a long discussion about everything in heaven and earth with you and your sisters, and C. and E., who ought to be there also. All very fine: nothing of the kind, I suppose, will happen, for society will be as polite, stiff, and formal as ever. It is so different here: if anyone comes to Sarawak the only trouble is, who shall have the pleasure of entertaining him. Not that I mean to question your hospitality, dearest F, which I know to be perfect.' In a letter written some years after Mrs. McDougall recounts her experience with native servants, and says, ' In dealing with them I find that a good lecture in a gentle tone of voice goes much further than an angry word.' We have received from an eye-witness a lively account of an afternoon and of one of these dinner parties at Government House, which must have taken place in the autumn of 1855, before Captain Brooke left for England. After describing tiffin and the fruits which formed part of it, concoctions of sun-made creams and limonade divine,' contained in red prickly caskets lined with white satin, the narrator adds that the announce SOCIAL LIFE AT SARAWAK 131 ment was made that the first durians of the season had come in. Their votaries,' said the Rajah, 'are always wild on the occasion. It is a passionate fruit and must be loved or hated.' A mixture of ambrosia and cream, tainted with the aroma of ancient pigsties and garlic, was beyond the capacity of the novices; but the plates of yellow pips extracted from their rough envelopes, pouring forth fresh perfume every time the fork ran into them, were irresistible to the veterans. With many jokes and much laughter the spoil was seized upon, although the indulgence carried a retribution with it. After this it was a relief to get out of doors into the fresh air and upon the water. On reaching the opposite shore, "We must go round by the mission house, and make sure of our party for the evening," cried the Rajah, and we diverged into a narrower pathway leading past the wooden church-a model structure for its beauty of proportion-up to the mission house. This was by no means equal to the church in elegance of form, but large and commodious, better inside than out, as all houses should be, and very sheltering with its heavy umbrella-like roof of wooden tiles against the tropical rains. 'After a renovating bath and white jacket toilet, the correct thing in Sarawak, unless a very wet day or special occasion call for European costume, the royal household, then composed wholly of bachelors, awaited the arrival of the Bishop's family, and with pleasure, except where conscience had made cowards of the durian eaters. On assembling for dinner some little banter followed, but "Never mind," cried the Rajah, "I'll make them all eat durian before we let them off this evening;" and after receiving his guests he led the way to the dining-room. When lighted up for the evening the house looked more Oriental than in the daylight. The windows opening into the verandah served as the framework for several half-lengths of Dyak chiefs, who, their approach to their sovereign being one of gradation and delay, would stand without for hours until invited to enter. Their fine figures, some in brilliant jackets of satin or gold embroidery, displaying their broad sinewy chests, others covered with an infinity of brass rings and chains, their earrings being circlets of brass frequently depending from the ear to the shoulder, made a magnificent setting to the picture; while their great black eyes, as they cast admiring looks upon their lord and his guests, or flashed telegraphic glances to each other, were more suggestive than reassuring to the stranger. 'Dinner proceeded until a discussion arose, which the Rajah cut short by exclaiming, “Do help the pudding that is waiting that is the one which the ladies will prefer ;" and, that which was before him being in a glory of flame, while the other looked deliciously cool, all took the hint. The pudding was served with a very pleasant sauce like rich apple, and was greatly admired, much to the satisfaction of the host. At dessert he announced that durians had arrived and were only awaiting the permission of the ladies to enter. Oh no, they never could or would think of allowing it. "Vile things," ejaculated the Bishop, who, being both physician and botanist, was an accepted authority upon esculents. "Well," was the reply, "I can hardly ask you to eat them twice, as I know that to-day you have done so once already." Their quick denial was met by a burst of triumph, the white teeth of the Bengalee domestics bearing conspicuous witness to the laughter of the sahibs. "You have all done it; you have all done it," cried the votaries of the fruit; and truly it was so. The Rajah, skilful in the diplomacy of the cuisine as in the management of native potentates, had contrived a sauce which, under the belief that it was apple, had beguiled us for once into becoming durian eaters.' After dinner great was the mirth, and some moving anecdotes were told by the Bishop of his Chinese patients. Laborious and helpful to all, willing, and able for any good work at any time or season, the Bishop was strong and happy in the exercise of gifts which would have sainted him in bygone SOCIAL LIFE AT SARAWAK 133 ages. Had all his reverend brethren done half his part in publishing the Gospel and ameliorating human wretchedness, our national Church would stand in a much better position than she does at present. Certainly the best people are the best abused, and both he and the Rajah had a full share of the obloquy cast by the sharp tongues of narrow-minds.' The evening passed in the great library, where the Rajah delighted to spend his leisure hours. Captain Brooke's insect treasures were produced, for a visit from Mr. Wallace the naturalist had given rise to a rage for collecting, and some Dyak shields were examined adorned by locks of human hair taken in warfare. Among them were two wavy light brown tresses, so long, so soft, and curling as to raise a melancholy surmise as to the victim's sex and nation;' and then some natives were introduced. The Imaum that night paid a visit of ceremony. He was a finer man than most Malays, having high Arabian features set off by a grand turban and flowing caftan of sea green. Much speaking was evidently the chief part of his office, but even his Malay was wanting in the polish and elegance of pronunciation of the Rajah's. When he departed, with a profusion of compliments and a profound salaam, an old Dyak chief came just within the door, and, perching himself upon his heels upon a chair, engaged the attention of the Bishop. He wished for a missionary to be sent to him, to teach him and his people "the right way." Then followed some observations respecting God. "Yes, He is a great Spirit, very strong, and very good, he could believe that; but what does He require ?" Clearly and tersely the Commandments were spoken, with approving nods from the seeker. Then there was loud satisfaction expressed, which my informant, who gave me the benefit of his superior knowledge of the language, told me was caused by the precept, "Thou shalt not steal." "Then," he exclaimed, "when they follow this, the neighbours will take no more of my paddy; now they rob me shamefully." And at the conclusion the unsophisticated savage said, almost in the words of the Apostle, "All these commandments are clean, and just, and good."' 'The conversation now became more general, the Rajah leading the subject to the theories of Hume, not that he concurred in his views, but he would have it that a man calmly contemplating a green old age must have some virtue in him; and he read a passage to prove his words, adding that it was to the quiet close of a life so described that he was looking forward for himself. The Bishop, having arranged that the chief should visit him at his house next morning, here joined us, and gave a good-natured but firm denial to the idea that happiness was attainable by the historian's theory; while Mrs. McDougall, visibly grieved, exclaimed, "Such an old age, like that of the sceptic's, would be dry and withered.” Sir James laughed gaily at their warmth, and his young staff smiled. Presently the ladies declared that it was getting late, the company rose, the evening was over.' Nor was it only that social intercourse took place between the gentry and the mission house. The church services were in themselves a bond of union between the clergy and all who attended them, but Bishop and Mrs. McDougall also strove in various ways to extend the feeling of fellowship, and continued to carry out the same or like plans during the whole of their life at Sarawak. Thus on one occasion Mrs. McDougall writes: 'Frank has set on foot a weekly gathering at our house on Wednesday evenings; anybody may come at eight o'clock, when we all read the Bible together till nine. Frank expounds; then we have tea and a little sacred music, prayers at ten, then good-bye. We have had two of these evenings and fifteen visitors; they have been very successful. Frank's expositions were very interesting and the people attentive. Our firstclass boys and Mary and Julia came in also to the reading. We have invented this plan to bring the second-class people about us.' |