was altered, by Colonel P. Hawker, to his new saucer-plug and sideprimer ignition. Each gun 11 bore, and 3 feet 6 in the barrel. Weight of patent-breeching gun 11 lbs. ; ditto of old musket, 10 lbs.

N. B. The foregoing specimen, it is admitted, selects the most decided victories of the saucer-plug; but the fair and honest average of above 50 rounds was in favour of the saucer-plug versus the patent-breeching, about one-fifth more in closeness, and a good fourth more in strength or projective force!!! With a FLINT gun the result might have been quite the reverse! Why so? Because the powder in the centre hole has time to ignite the body of the charge, instead of being instantaneously blown through it by the force of the copper cap!

This plan has now been adapted to double guns with complete success; and it is but justice to say, that one of the best finished amongst a large stock in my possession,

* A small popgun, with only 2 feet 8 barrel, will not admit of the proper time for cannon-powder to ignite and shoot quite so strong as the "2-28" powder; but in a barrel of 3 feet 6 or more, the coarse powder has the advantage. And in all very long guns the cannonpowder becomes a sine quâ non; as, with these guns, the fine powder causes an awful recoil, and scarcely gives more projective force than a common sporting gun.

is a double gun on this principle, manufactured by the worthy successor of the late William Moore, Mr. Wm. Grey, No. 43, Old Bond Street.

TUBE-CHARGER.

This is the invention of J. Greenfield, who was not only one of Joe's best workmen, but his cabinet counsellor in matters of difficulty. No man in London has invented more little articles, for other people to get the credit of, than Greenfield. I cannot describe the use of his charger better than from his own statement, which is as follows:

"The object of this invention is, to prime guns with expedition and certainty, which experience has proved to be a matter attended with much difficulty and inconvenience by the mode hitherto practised, of supplying the charge with the fingers. Nor is this the only advantage to be obtained by the use of this instrument; as, by its means, a much shorter tube may be applied, which will in a very considerable degree prevent the outward flash, and lessen the report occasioned by its explosion, and thus effectually remedy the evil so generally complained of by gentlemen who have been in the habit of using the tube guns."

THE SIDE-NAIL

Should be made of the best tempered spring steel, and stouter than that for a flint-gun.

All side-nails, whether for flint or detonaters, should go through both locks in a double gun, and have a notch at each end, so that, if they break, they may be screwed out, and replaced by an extra one in the field.

THE DISSECTION

Is much more simple; and your locks remain on the stock while in the case, so that you have only to put in your barrels (remembering that you must draw up the cocks first), and your gun is ready for the field.

CLEANING,

Similar to a flint gun, and rather less to do: but you must leave everything, as well as the inside of the barrels, a very little damp with sweet oil, or your gun will rust fifty times worse than with common powder.

It should be observed, however, that when the oxygen mixes with gunpowder, in its explosion, it becomes less injurious to the iron; consequently the cocks and breechings receive even more damage from this composition than do the insides of the barrels.

Now for a little petty larceny;-book making-paper and paste work; an easy way of doing business:

DIRECTIONS,

That Lancaster has printed, proper to be observed by gentlemen using detonating guns.

1. Load with the cocks down, which prevents the powder from being forced out of the pegs that receive the copper caps.

2. Prime the last thing; otherwise, in ramming down the wadding, the powder will be driven into the caps, and become so firmly compressed as to destroy their effect.

3. Should the caps be put on, by mistake, prior to loading, force them off with the turnscrew, and replace them with new ones.

4. Keep the caps dry. If exposed to the fire for a few minutes, when required for use, they will never fail. Take care that no oil or grease gets to them.

5. Always clean those parts of the barrels and locks that the detonating powder acts upon, with a wet rag; then rub them dry, and leave them in oil, to prevent rust. The pegs should not be taken out

too often.

6. Before you take out the barrels, bring the locks to half-cock. The locks do not require to be taken off every time the gun is used: once a fortnight is quite sufficient. Put a little fine oil to the parts where there is friction: but if the gun has been used on a wet day, the locks should be taken off to be cleaned, and oiled immediately.

N. B. Detonating locks should not be snapt, either with or without the copper caps, but in the act of shooting. When the gun is loaded, the flash from the detonating powder never enters the inside of the barrel; but if snapt upon the caps when the gun is unloaded, it drives the detonating gas into the barrels, which creates rust; and if done without the caps, the works are liable to be injured, by reason of the cocks meeting no resistance in their fall, as in flint-locks.

The pegs should by no means be used after the holes are worn large by repeated firing, as it will weaken the force of the gun, and damage the lock.

Directions for cleaning Guns.

1. Place the breech ends of the barrels about three inches deep in a bucket with cold water; then, after wetting the sponge, cloth, or tow, introduce the rod into the barrels, and work it well: then apply the wire brush attached to the cleaning-rod with some clean hot water, which will take out all the lead in the operation. This should be invariably attended to, as it is well known washing only will not remove the lead.

2. Wipe the rod and outside of the barrels dry, and set the latter upright, muzzle downwards, for two minutes to drain, after which rub them out perfectly dry.

3. Wipe the barrels out clean, then pass an oiled rag down the inside, and rub over the outside: leave them a little oily, which will prevent

rust.

The use of cloth is preferred, as not subjecting gentlemen to the serious accidents that have happened from leaving tow in the chamber.

Brass, being in its nature softer than iron, allows of the brush being used without the possibility of injury to the barrels.

"So much for" Lancaster-and all very right; except that I prefer a little fine sand or brickdust to the wire brush.

"A man convinced against his will

Is of the same opinion still."

LOADING.

As I before observed, you are obliged in your own defence to load a detonater lighter than a flint-gun; and as it goes quicker, (though not stronger, as the gunmakers would wish to make you believe,) and for other reasons before given, you may use a fourth less powder than with a flint-gun. [My own plan, however, is generally to reduce the charge of shot to an oz. and, and shoot with equal measures of powder and shot.] Many sportsmen feel quite positive that a detonater shoots much stronger than a flint. This, I have no doubt, is because it does not allow them time to flinch, and therefore they fire the body of the charge so much more accurately with a detonater, that they kill cleaner and at greater distances.

The safest way to load a detonater is to put the caps on last, taking care to leave down the cocks; or the powder, unless of large grain, would, on ramming the wadding, be forced through the hole in the nipple. But let me observe, en passant, that I think the use of largegrained powder objectionable in copper-cap guns, because you are never sure that it will fill up a dirty chamber, so as to arrive near the hole of the nipple. If you put away your gun loaded, always take off the caps, not only for