The next tool is the gouge, of which there are several kinds. Those having the bevel on the concave side are termed inside gouges; and when the bevel is on the convex side, they are called outside gouges. Gouges, like chisels, are also classed into firmer and paring gouges, the distinction between the two being the same as in the case of chisels. It is not necessary to possess a full set of each kind of gouges; half a set each of inside and outside will suffice. Fig. 20 represents a paring, and Fig. 21 a firmer, outside gouge. The inside gouge may be ground a little keener than the chisel or plane iron, and requires care in the operation, since it has generally to be ground on the corner of the grindstone, which is rarely of the same curve as the gouge requires. In oilstoning a gouge, what is called a slip is employed. Slips are wedge-shaped pieces of oilstone, of various curves and shapes, to suit the purposes for which they are applied. The gouge should be held in the left hand, and the slip in the right, the latter being supplied with clean oil. The back or convex side of the gouge must be laid level on the face of the oilstone, and the handle worked to and from the workman, who must roll it at the same time, so as to bring every part of the curve of the gouge in contact with the face of the oilstone. All the remarks upon grinding and oilstoning chisels apply with greater force to gouges, because the small amount of the surface of the gouge, in contact with either the grindstone or oilstone, renders it extremely liable to the formation of a feather edge in grinding, and a wire edge in oilstoning. In grinding outside gouges, a new feature steps in; for if the gouge be kept at the same inclination throughout the grinding, as in the case of all the tools heretofore mentioned, the center of the gouge will be keener than the corners; to avoid which the gouge is given a rolling motion to bring every part against the action of the grindstone, while at the same time lowering the back hand as the corners of the gouge approach the stone. This

if evenly performed, gives an equal keenness to all parts of the cutting edge. The same rising and falling motion of the back hand is necessary in oilstoning the convex side of the gouge. The concave side is to be rubbed with an oilstone slip, taking care to let the slip be flat in the trough of the gouge and not elevated at the near end; for if once a habit of beveling, however slightly, the flat faces of tools is contracted, it tends to increase, so that the tools finally lose their characteristics, and are in fact ruined, so far as their application to good work is concerned.

Several sizes of squares are necessary to the pattern maker, because his work necessitates in many cases that the blade be short, in order to admit of its application to the

work. Fig. 22 represents an ordinary try square; the blade should be of sawblade, and the back of hard wood, the inside and outside edges of the back being covered with sheet metal, to prevent undue wear.

In Fig. F is shown a try square which can be used as a simple square or as a mitre square. By simply changing the position of the handle, and bringing the mitred face at

the top of the handle against one edge of the work in hand, a perfect mitre, or angle of forty-five degrees, can be struck from either edge of the blade.

Fig. F.

In addition to this, however, a bevel square is required; and it is best to have one with a sliding blade, so that the length it projects from the square back, on either side, may be adjusted to suit the work. Such

a bevel square is illustrated in Fig. 23.

Of compasses there are two kinds, one being

plain, and having no means of permanent adjustment, as shown in Fig. 24. This is used for casual measurements or marking. The other has an attachment by which it may be

permanently set, as shown in Fig. 25, in which A represents a thumb screw employed to set one leg firmly against the radius piece, C, and B being an adjusting screw for finally adjusting the compass points after the thumb screw, A, is fastened, the spring, D, operating to keep the leg, E, firmly against the face of the screw, B; so that, when the adjustment of the compass points is once properly made, the compasses may be laid upon the bench and used from time

to time without danger of the adjustment being altered by handling or by a slight blow.

An excellent attachment for compass points has lately come into use; it is for the purpose of fastening to the marking leg a pencil, to avoid scratching the surface of the work with the compass point. This device and its mode of application are shown in Fig. 26, in which A represents a thin tube with the feet, G G, on it, and provided with the split, B. C is a clamp, provided with a thumbscrew, E.

D represents one of the compass legs. F is a piece of lead pencil which passes through the tube, A. The attachment is slipped on the compass leg, and the screw is tightened up, clamping that leg to the feet, G G, and clamping at the same time the pencil in the tube. Another of these attachments, in which the pencil point is adjustable in a direction