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ment of the first clearing, already mentioned; strolled through the gardens belonging to the community, where quiet-looking ladies and nurses with quiet children were walking; and then directed our steps to the Friedhof, or cemetery. This lies on an elevated slope above the village, and is very conspicuous by its extent and form. It contains several acres, is square, and fenced by a lofty hedge, or rather trimmed green wall of hornbeam. Over the entrance is inscribed

Christus ist auferstanden von den Todten

Er ist der Erstling worden unter denen die da schlafen: "Christ is arisen from the dead: he is become the first-born among those who there sleep."

Within, the Friedhof, or Court of Peace, as the Germans commonly call their burying-grounds-or as frequently Gottes Acker, God's Field, is intersected with avenues also of hornbeam trees, and at each corner and at the end of each avenue is an arbour of the same. The whole place is wonderfully neat. No separate family burying-place is allotted; all are buried in regular rows, as they die, and on each grave lies a simple slab with an inscription. The only exception to this rule is made in the case of the family of the founder. In the centre of the four principal crossing avenues stands a row of eight massy altar tombs. These are the tombs of Count Zinzendorf, and his immediate family and friends, the first founders and champions of the Herrnhut community. The two centre ones are those of the Count and Countess Zinzendorf. On their right lie Sophia Theodora, Gräfin Reuss, the beloved cousin of Count Zinzendorf, and wife of his friend Count Reuss, who ended her days here; Elizabeth von Watteville, the Count Zinzendorf's daughter; and Frederick Rudolph, Freiherr von Watteville, her husband. Nitschmann, the Count's second wife; his old friend and first Civil Senior here; von Watteville, the Count's daughter, married to the adopted son of Baron Watteville, Johannes, one of the Count's most attached and active friends. The inscription on the tomb of this excellent woman says justly she was, "Eine treue Magd des Herrn, und gesegnete Dienerin der Brüder-Gemeinen in der Alten und Neuen Welt, unter mancherley Gefahren zu Land und See; welche hier

On his left hand lies Anna Frederick von Watteville, and last, Binigna Justina

starb 1789."- A true handmaid of the Lord, and blessed servant of the Congregations of the Brethren, in the Old and New World, amid many perils both by land and sea; who died here 1789.

Many old servants and cotemporaries well known to the readers of the history of the founding of this settlement, lie around, and amongst them that fine old patriarch Christian David. Others of the earliest here have only mere numerals inscribed on their stones, either because they were contented to be recognised only by their friends, or because their names could be found recorded in the register of the brethren. At the first crossing lies the stone of the first person interred here, Hans Beyer, a child, in 1730, thus shewing that the Friedhof was not laid out till eight years after the building of Herrnhut.

Their funerals must be the most striking of their ceremonies; and as the Friedhof is some distance from the village, on an open ascent, the road also marked out by an avenue of trees, the spectacle must be very conspicuous. The funeral takes place in the afternoon or evening, when general attendance is more convenient. The Community assembles in the general hall, where an address is made, and a short account of the life of the deceased is read. The musical choir heads the train with trumpets, playing hymn-tunes. The coffin, of a bright colour, covered with a white shroud adorned with garlands and ribbons, is borne by the brothers in their usual dress. The relatives follow next, but not clad in mourning, and then follow the whole community; the men and the women in separate bodies. A circle is formed round the grave. Several stanzas of a hymn are sung, accompanied by the music, while the coffin is let down into the grave. The preacher and the community pray in the words of their Liturgy, and the scene is closed with the church blessing.

On Easter-day at sun-rise the Community also make a solemn procession to the Friedhof, with a band of music and singing. There the Easter litany is recited, and the names of all who have been there interred since the last Easter solemnity, are pronounced aloud, and their memory thus revived in the hearts of their friends. Just above the Friedhof, and on the crown of the eminence stands, on one of the singular groups of rocks which so peculiarly mark this landscape, a sort of temple or watch-house. This is the

Hut-berg, or Watch-hill. From this building the whole country round to a vast extent is seen, with various mountains rearing themselves in different directions, amongst them the lofty remarkable peak, called Die Sächsische Krone-the Crown of Saxony. Here too lies sloping down on all sides from this point around you, the noble estate conferred on the community by Count Zinzendorf. On one side in its whiteness, and amid its gardens, Herrnhut; near it, the original woods and pleasant wood-walks. On the opposite side runs along a pleasant glen a string of villages, Gross Hennersdorf, Rennersdorf, and last, Bertholdsdorf, amongst its lofty trees. In Bertholdsdorf lives also a bishop, where they have a large establishment. Here is also the house which Count Zinzendorf built, and wherein he died. This is now the Direction-house, or Government-house; and in the council-room is an admirable portrait of the Count, and also some of some other of their worthies. The property is vested for life in the Gräfin Einsiedel, the present female head of the Sisters' House in Herrnhut, the laws of Saxony forbidding property to be held by corporations. A little beyond the house stands on this woody slope of the glen, the old church of Bertholdsdorf, in which the first pastor, Rothe, and Count Zinzendorf used to preach. A fine avenue of trees planted along the road connects Bertholdsdorf with Herrnhut.

The whole scene is one of great interest. The people are busy in the fields. All is well cultivated; all is neat and flourishing. It has the air of a settlement in some primitive country, where the whole body is bound together by one faith and one heart. Such is Herrnhut, the quiet but active head-colony of one of the most remarkable of communities, whether regarded on account of their thorough renouncement of the world and its desires, or for the miracles of civilization which they have effected from pole to pole, with a handful of simple, pious, and indefatigable people.

We felt ourselves well repaid for our visit, and returned by a new track towards the Saxon Switzerland, through a country where the benefits introduced by them were equally visible. The whole district was one of pleasant alternation of hill and dale. Along the sweet woody valleys ran the richest meadows, the clearest streams, and the most extraordinary rows of gay cottages. I call them gay, for they were built on one uniform but showy plan. One half of

each house was erected on round wooden arches, the other half plain. These arches, the doors, and windows, were all painted with the brightest colours, especially yellow, red, and green. Wherever the long valleys extended, for miles and miles extended the rows of these gaudy cottages, each in its orchard-garden, and with its pretty green crofts on the slopes behind, the hill tops being covered with woods. The gardens were full of gay autumn flowers, -as dahlias, asters, and hollyhocks; the orchards full of fruit. In the houses sate the men and their sons at their looms, and in the crofts were the wives and daughters watering the linen, which lay on the sweet grass in immense expanses, whitening the whole country as with snow. As whole families were out merrily in the fields collecting in their grain, one could not but feel how striking the contrast to this happy scene were the manufacturing districts of our own country, where, whatever spinning-jennies may have done for the nation at large, they have introduced the most frightful masses of misery amongst the people; while here the hand-worker, retaining his independence, alone leads that life which an industrious hand-worker, and in fact every one of God's creatures, should.

The scriptural quotations at pp. 415 and 423, are literally translated from the German Bible; and in the inscription at p. 414, Ps. 84, 4, is lxxxiv. 3 of the English Bible.

13. JOURNEY TO LEIPSIC AND BERLIN.

THE space devotable to these characteristics of cities and scenery warns me to be brief. We must away over the great plains of the North without much dallying. Luckily, here steam offers its rapid wing, and the country, with very little variety of feature, demands as little notice. The north, indeed, seems the very land for the growing of corn and laying down of railroads. Vast plains extend everywhere, for the most part so many enormous corn-fields, and one wonders where the produce can be consumed, till we recollect the forty millions of German population. In all directions of the cultivated but monotonous plains, railways whirl you from one city to another, and unlike the romantic hill countries of the south and west, you see nothing on your way that you long to stop for. Thus we flew over such a plain from Dresden to Leipsic in four hours, with little of novelty except the huge flocks and herds.

One thing which surprises an Englishman is to see what

wretched creatures are the sheep which produce the famous Saxony wool, compared with our fat and comely flocks. They resemble most our south-downs, but are lean and wretched looking. In fact, it is a prevailing idea that the leaner the sheep the finer the wool. It is the wool to which all the attention of the grower is devoted, and therefore, generally speaking, a more miserable assemblage of animals than a flock of German sheep is not to be seen. They are not allowed like ours to wander in meadows and enclosed fields. Meadows are few, are mown repeatedly for hay; and downs they as little possess. Those beautiful green, and as it were, velvet

hills are nowhere to be seen. Their hills are covered with woods or vineyards. On the plains they wander under the care of a shepherd, and for the most part on fallows and stubbles, to pick up odds and ends rather than to enjoy a regular pasture. You may see them penned on a blazing fallow, where not a trace of vegetable matter is to be seen, for the greater part of a summer's day, which in this climate is pretty much like being roasted alive. Here all in a mass, they stick their heads under one another to avoid the glare and the plague of flies. For what purpose they are here, except to starve and melt them into leanness, I never could discover. The shepherds are armed, instead of crooks, with a sort of spud, or little spade with a long handle, and of a hollow form, with which, from time to time, they dig up a little earth, and fling at any stragglers or loiterers. Contrary to our custom, and according to that of scriptural times, the flock follows them, and not they the flock. The sheep besides being lean are generally dreadfully lame with that pestilent complaint the foot-rot, and their keepers apparently trouble themselves very little about it. As leanness and not fat is considered an advantage, this lameness may even be an advantage too. It is not to be supposed that the mutton is very tempting; nothing, in fact, can be more lean, dry, and tasteless, than German mutton; a leg of which is often not bigger than the leg of a tolerable terrier. There has been started in Würtemberg, a Horse-flesh-eating Society, which has lately had several public dinners at Tübingen, to feast upon and recommend the use of horse-flesh. Here learned professors and leading gentlemen adorning their practice with the fine Greek name of Hippohagen, have devoured horse-flesh in all modes of cookery-roast,

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