Tyrolean peasants mingled in the mass, and increased the manyhued and picturesque spectacle. Many of the people had rosaries of beads of blue glass ornamented with silver. The looks of deep reverence in all, the fingering of rosaries and muttering of prayers, indicated a deeply pious feeling, The women in the Pelz-Haube, we observed, were preeminently devotional. On the outside of the church we noticed others kneeling round a sepulchre in the wall, with a figure of Christ in it, and scattering flowers around.

But to see the spirit of devotion in its fullest extent, it is necessary to enter the Theatiner Kirche. This church, which may be said to be a caricature of St. Peter's at Rome, is in the worst taste. Grecian or Italian architecture is at best not the most suitable to a church, but when it is overloaded with wretched ornaments as this is, it is bad indeed. Aloft on all sides, little angels, like so many Cupids, are seeming to laugh at the people below, and playing all sorts of ludicrous pranks. After the rich glow of the Allerheiligen Capelle, in which we had just before been, this looked flat and cold in the extreme. It seemed as if the whole were carved out of ivory, but not by a master hand. Yet it abounds in fine altar-pieces and paintings, some of them even from the hands of Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, and other by no means contemptible artists. Before every shrine were numbers worshiping. Every saint had his little knot of devotees; but Christ in chains, and the Black Virgin by far the most. Some were planting little burning tapers around the feet of pillars. Others were planting them on the top of the iron railing surrounding the shrines of the Christ in Gefangenschaft and the Black Virgin. The rails were dropped all over with the wax from the vast number of tapers which, from time to time, had been fixed on them. A woman stood with a stall, selling these little tapers of different colours, and also little prayers, printed on strips of very common paper. There were wax legs and arms, and one whole wax baby in swaddling clothes, with many hearts and chains of silver, offered at the favourite shrine of the Black Virgin. Pictures were also hung up in it, representing the Black Virgin appearing to individuals, especially to a soldier who was lying in bed ill, and promising them health.

The reverence for the Black Virgin and Child in Catholic countries is one of the most singular phenomena of this religion. She

and child are as black as any negroes. They are supposed to be of Eastern origin. If you ask how they came to acquire this transcendent veneration, you get no very satisfactory answer. It is a matter of ancient tradition not very clear. One ecclesiastic, in reply to my query, said he supposed it was, that as images became black with age, the people had an idea that these were of the highest antiquity, and therefore more sacred than any other. Be that as it may, everywhere these shrines are crowded, and loaded with offerings.

The love of the people for bloody imagery is here again peculiarly conspicuous. On all sides are paintings and figures of a ghastly character. In a side chapel is a real sepulchre, with all its solemn apparatus and deathly figure. In the chapel hang various paintings, but the people flock with eager zeal to one-that of Christ just taken down from the cross, with copious streams of blood running from hands, feet, and side. You see the people touching this blood and then kissing their hand. Not one wound, nor one stream of gore that they do not greedily rub their fingers upon again and again, and as often kiss them, as if they could never be satisfied. How strange is the contrast between the fine taste which the king is diffusing, and this taste which abounds amongst the people! But we must not philosophise; we must depart.

We quitted Munich with great regret. There is certainly scarcely a city in Europe in which a lover of art must feel so strong an interest and excitement. In others, literature is more active; and in others again, you can enjoy the contemplation of the works of the past; but here every moment something new in art is projected, or is accomplished. There is always some beautiful addition to the wealth of art, nascent; something progressing, something achieved; and you feel as you do in nature, that there is a principle of life and growth around you.

6. JOURNEY THROUGH SALZBURG AND LINZ, TO VIENNA.

SCARCELY are you out of the city of Munich on your way towards Wasserburg, before you begin to perceive the Tyrolean style of building. There are the large projecting roofs; the outside galleries running all round the house; the wooden tiles all

loosely laid on, and great stones upon them to keep them from being blown away. What amazes you is, that these houses are not burned down by dozens. They seem as if purposely calculated

for bonfires. They are all of wood. Walls, floors, roofs, galleries, everything is wood; and besides this, wood for firing is piled under the galleries, especially under the lower ones, four feet deep, where it will remain dry, in such quantities, that to our eyes it appears quite terrific. The least accident with fire, and the whole is in an irremediable blaze.

Their wells here too, as in many other parts of Germany, are of a most primitive and picturesque kind. The bucket and rope are hung to a beam balanced on a stout post. This beam is often enormous, and so heavy at one end that its weight counterpoises that of the bucket at the other when full of water, so that there is nothing to do but to lift this thick end, the beam being so balanced as to make this easy to a child; the bucket descends, and by leaving go of the beam, it comes up again of itself. Here, again, were plenty of shrines, crosses, and pictures of Saints, Virgins, and Trinities, on houses and shutters.

At a post station, about ten English miles from Munich, we met the Elector of Hesse-Cassel returning from Bad-Gastein. In two or three plain sort of travelling carriages were the Elector, the Electoress, and their suite. The Elector is a stout-built old man, with a very active manner, and very white hair, eyebrows, and whiskers. He came out of the carriage, and clapped himself down on a wooden bench at the house-end; but as this did not seem quite to satisfy him, as being too much in the sun, he retreated again to the carriage, and two of his servants speedily brought from the inn a tall glass of sugar-water, with its tall wooden spoon for the Electress, a large, jolly dame, and for him, bread and cheese and Bavarian beer. With a truly ploughman's appetite, and in ploughman style, he cut a good hunch of bread, clapped it in the palm of his left hand, and a corresponding piece of cheese, which he took between the thumb and forefinger of the same hand, and with a large pocket-knife began to play away at these homely viands with the keenness of a hunter, or of a Cossack after a day's pursuit of the enemy. He drunk off the deckel-glass of beer, a sort of glass tankard holding more than a pint, and despatched one of the men for a second. In less than ten minutes he had given unquestionable evidence of his appetite for bread and cheese and beer being as sharp as his appetite for play. The bread and cheese had vanished; the two tankards of beer after it; he wiped his moustachios, the whips cracked, and away went the carriages, the Elector having laid a tolerable foundation for his dinner at Munich.

We ourselves drove another stage, and then stopped to dine at a large and primitive village inn. Our landlord, as is often the case in this part of Bavaria, was an extensive farmer as well as Wirth. The house was very large, and on the opposite side of the way stood barns and farm-buildings, also on an extensive scale. The common room, into which we first entered, was immense, with a huge iron stove, rude wooden chairs and tables, and a number of women busily at work, ironing, getting up linen, and sewing. The landlady, though apparently having plenty of household work on her hands, soon sent us into a little side room an excellent dinner, in which stood pre-eminent pancakes and Bavarian beer. Pancakes, it is well for travellers to know, can be had at a short notice in

almost any village inn in Germany, of most excellent quality, and where you would find it difficult out of the regular dinner hour to procure anything else very palatable, except coffee, ever the staple resource of the traveller. Here, for the first time we were waited on by one of those young and lovely Kelnerinen, or waiting maids so celebrated in this part of Bavaria, and the adjoining ones of Austria. Their fame is well merited. A love

lier set of young women we have no where seen. They must, in fact, be carefully selected for their office; and very probably any young girls growing up very handsome are trained with a view to this service. In all other parts of Germany you are waited on by men. These Bavarian and Austrian Hebes wear at their sides, on the left, a bunch of keys, on their right one of those large leather purses, which are made familiar to English eyes by being so

often introduced into his designs by Retsch. They have often, as in this instance, the name of the fair Kelnerin worked on the band of the pocket. The Münchener-Tracht continues to be worn here, and seen still farther on the way towards Salzburg, and in this pretty costume, with a native, or more probably an acquired grace and sweetness of manner, these young damsels may well be objects of general admiration.

At Wasserburg, a little town in a hollow amongst sandy hills, and swept nearly completely round by the river Inn, built as if on purpose to be often under water, and so often indeed deeply in it that it is raised on lofty arches, and the people frequently have to go from house to house in boats, we were in a similar inn, large and very old-fashioned. Here was another of these Kelnerinen, of singular beauty; and the landlady, now a little soft pillow of a woman, must have been in her youth very handsome, and was very probably one of these comely Kelnerinen; very dangerous personages indeed to young and sentimental landlords, as well as guests. Our Wirthin was as agreeable as she must have been pretty; most atten