TRAVELS

IN

CENTRAL ASIA.

CHAPTER I.

TRAVELING IN PERSIA.-SLEEP ON HORSEBACK.-TEHERAN.-RECEPTION AT THE TURKISH EMBASSY.-TURKEY AND PERSIA.-FERRUKH KHAN'S VISIT TO EUROPE.-WAR BETWEEN DOST MOHAMMED KHAN AND SULTAN AHMED KHAN.-EXCURSION TO SHIRAZ.

"Je marchais, et mes compagnons flottaient comme des branches par l'effet du sommeil."-Victor Hugo, from Omaïah ben Aïëdz.

WHOEVER has traveled through Persia in the middle of July will sympathize with me when I say how glad I felt at having got through the district that extends from Tabris to Teheran. It is a distance of only fifteen, or perhaps we may rather say of only thirteen caravan stations; still, it is fearfully fatiguing, when circumstances compel one to toil slowly from station to station under a scorching sun, mounted upon a laden mule, and condemned to see nothing but such drouth and barrenness as characterize almost the whole of Persia. How bitter the disappointment of him who has studied Persia only in Saadi, Khakani, and Hafiz; or, still worse, who has

received his dreamy impressions of the East from the beautiful imaginings of Goethe's "Ost-Westlicher Divan," or Victor Hugo's "Orientales," or the magnificent picturings of Tom Moore!

It was not until we were about two stations from Teheran that the idea struck our djilodar* to change our march by day into night marches. But even this expedient had its inconveniences, for the coolness of the night in Persia is a great disposer to slumber; the slow pace of the animals has a composing effect, and one must really firmly cling to them, or even suffer one's self to be bound on by cords, to avoid being precipitated during one's sleep down upon the sharp flint-stones below. The Oriental, habituated to this constant torment, sleeps sweetly enough, whatever may be the kind of saddle, whether it be upon horse, camel, mule, or ass, and it gave me many a moment of merry enjoyment as I contemplated the tall, lanky, long-robed Persians lying outstretched, with their feet nearly touching the ground, and their heads supported upon the necks of the patient beasts. In this position the Persians take their nap quite tranquilly, while they unconsciously pass many stations. But, at that time, Necessity, the mother of invention, had not yet imparted to me the necessary experience; and while the greater part of my traveling companions near me, in spite of their soft slumbers, were still riding on, I was left undisturbed to the studious contemplation of the Kervankusch and Pervins (Pleïades); and I looked

* The same as kervanbashi; one who hires the camels, mules, asses, etc.

СНАР. І.

TEHERAN.

21

with inexpressible longing to that quarter where the Suheil (Canopus) and the Sitarei Subh (morning star) emerging, should announce the dawn of day, the proximity of the station, and the end of our torments. What wonder that I was somewhat in the condition of a half-boiled fish when, on the 13th of July, 1862, I approached the capital of Persia? We stopped at a distance of a couple of English miles, on the banks of a stream, to let our beasts drink. The halt awakened my companions, who, still sleepily rubbing their eyes, pointed out to me how Teheran was there lying before us to the northeast. I looked about me, and perceived in that direction a blue smoke rising and lengthening in long columns upward, permitting me, however, here and there to distinguish the outline of a glittering dome, till at last, the vaporous veil having gradually disappeared, I had the enjoyment, as Persians express themselves, of beholding before me, in all her naked wretchedness, the Darül Khilafe, or Seat of Sovereignty.

I made my entry through the Dervaze (gate) No, and shall certainly not soon forget the obstacles amid which I had to force my way. Asses, camels, and mules, laden with barley straw, and bales of Persian or European merchandise, were all pressing on in the most fearful confusion at the very entrance of the gate. Drawing up my legs under me upon the saddle, and screaming out as lustily as my neighbors, "Khaberdar, Khaberdar" (Take care), I at last. succeeded in getting into the city, though with no little trouble. I traversed the bazar, and finally reached the palace of the Turkish embassy without

having received any serious wound either by squeeze, blow, or cut.

A native of Hungary, sent by the Hungarian Academy upon a scientific mission to Central Asia, what had I to do at the Turkish embassy? This will appear from the Preface, to which I respectfully request my readers' attention, in spite of the prejudice condemning such introductions as tiresome and

unnecessary.

With Haydar Effendi, who then represented the Porte at the Persian court, I had been already acquainted at Constantinople. He had previously filled similar functions at St. Petersburg and at Paris. But, notwithstanding my being personally known to him, I was bearer also of letters from his most esteemed friends; and, counting upon the oftproved hospitality of the Turks, I felt sure of meeting with a good reception. I consequently regarded the residence of the Turkish embassy as my future abode; and as these gentlemen had resorted already to their yailar or summer seat at Djizer (eight English miles from Teheran), I only changed my clothes, and, after indulging in a few hours' repose to atone for my recent sleepless nights, I mounted an ass, hired for an excursion into the country, and in two hours found myself in the presence of the effendis, who, in a magnificent tent of silk, were just about to commence a dinner possessing in my eyes still superior magnificence and attraction.

My reception, both by the embassador and the secretaries, was of the most friendly description: room was soon found for me at the table, and in a few mo

CHAP. I.

TURKEY AND PERSIA.

23

ments we were in deep conversation respecting Stamboul and her beautiful views, the sultan and his mode of government. Ah! how refreshing in Teheran is the recollection of the Bosphorus !

What wonder if, in the course of the conversation, frequent comparisons were instituted between the Persian and the Turkish manner of living?

If one too hastily gives way to first impressions, Iran, the theme of so much poetic enthusiasm, is, after all, nothing but a frightful waste, whereas Turkey is really an earthly paradise. I accord to the Persian all the politeness of manners, and all the readiness and vivacity of wit, that are wanting to the Osmanli; but in the latter the absence of these qualities is more than compensated by an integrity and an honorable frankness not possessed by his rival. The Persian can boast a poetic organization and an ancient civilization. The superiority of the Osmanli results from the attention he is paying to the languages of Europe, and his disposition gradually to acquaint himself with the progress that European savans have made in chemistry, physics, and history.

Our conversation was prolonged far into night. The following days were devoted to my presentation at the other European embassies. I found Count Gobineau, the Imperial embassador, under a small tent in a garden like a caldron, where the heat was awful. Mr. Alison was more comfortably quartered in his garden at Gulahek, purchased for him by his government. He was very friendly. I had often the opportunity, at his hospitable table, of studying the question why the English envoys every where