pretty decorative plant. Pelargonium reticulatum, also from the same, received a label of commendation for the singular manner in which its leaves were veined with gold; it will no doubt be used as a kind to breed from. A very good Pelargonium of the Gold and Bronze-zoned section, of a distinct character and remarkably good in habit, named Countess of Kellie, was shown by Messrs. Downie, Laird, & Laing, and received a firstclass certificate. It is said to bed well, which is saying a great deal for it in such trying weather. Another, in the same style, named Kentish Hero, was not nearly so distinct or good. Mr. G. Smith, Hornsey Road, obtained a first-class certificate for Pelargonium Grand Duke, a bright orange scarlet, with large massive trusses; and also for Eclat, a rosy crimson, showing a tint of blue. Fuchsia Blue Boy, a very dwarf-growing and free-blooming double variety, was shown by Mr. G. Fry, of Lee, and awarded a label of commendation as a market and decorative plant; the tube and sepals are red, the corolla rich bluish purple, the blossoms abundant, and the habit refined. Mr. G. F. Wilson, Weybridge, received a first-class certificate for a Japanese Lily, which is supposed to be a fine variety of L. Thunbergianum; the flowers were deep orange, with a yellow band down each segment, and spotted with black; it produces a large and very handsome cluster of flowers. Lobelia Blue Tom Thumb, from Mr. Richard Dean, Ealing, was awarded a second-class certificate; it is a very dwarf erect-growing kind, and blooms profusely, the flowers being pale blue with white centre. R. D. OUR MONTHLY CHRONICLE. foreign compared with home-grown seeds of Scotch Fir and Larch:-"The plants from foreign seed push away ten days earlier than our home seedlings,' and are apt on that account to be destroyed by late spring frosts; while they are a fortnight later in autumn in maturing their growth, and consequently suffer from the effects of autumn frosts. I have not the least hesitation in saying that every one that can handle the pen should write down the arrant nonsense about the benefits of foreign seed." NEW ROSES.-The Floral Committee has definitively adopted, for the Royal Horticul tural Society, the very sensible and matter THE FRUIT CROP OF 1867.-From a series of returns just published in the Gardeners' Chronicle, the following deductions may be drawn:-Apples are all but universally deficient, this result being due in most cases to the injury done to the blossoms or young fruits by spring frosts. Pears are generally below the average. Plums, with the exception of Damsons, which are reported as unusually abundant, are short in quantity. Strawberries have been on the whole good, though the blossoms suffered from May frosts in some localities. Cherries are about an average crop, but of comparatively indifferent quality. Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, the latter especially, are below the average. Figs are very scanty. Small Fruits, such as Cur-year in which they are actually put in comrants and Gooseberries, have been unusually abundant, while Raspberries have suffered from the frosts. Nuts afford an average crop. Walnuts are all but a complete failure. It is found that generally fruits are deficient in flavour, owing doubtless to cold nights and In addition to the effects of frosts, the leaves have in many cases, been much injured by easterly winds, which have caused them to blister, and induced attacks of green fly, black fly, &c. absence of sunshine. CONIFERS FROM FOREIGN SEEDS. Mr. Austin, of Glasgow gives the following as the result of his experience as to the value of of-fact rule that new Roses shall date from the merce-a rule for which we have already contended, as the only one which does not admit of being misunderstood, and which is that a Rose sent out in 1867, even though it be in October, is to be regarded as a new Rose of 1867, and not of 1868, the year in which blooms may be first exhibited in England. We therefore counsel all other Societies, as well as the compilers of schedules throughout the country, to adhere in future to this common sense resolution, which, once fairly established, will do away with many disputes. LILIUM AURATUM. Some very fine examples of this superb Lily have been observed and Royal Horticultural Society, and we now supplement that information by recording the names of those who gained certificates at the examinations already held during the present year SOCIETY OF ARTS, APRIL. J. M. Henry, Richmond during the present year. In the garden of GROUPING OF ZONAL PELARGONIUMS.— Many suggestions have been made for grouping these plants, which now present such great variety that some classification is necessary. The most simple and intelligible, because well contrasted arrangement, is that proposed in the Gardeners' Chronicle, in which the term Zonal is preferred on account of the preponderance of zonate sorts, as a general designation for the whole series once called "Scarlet Geraniums." This subdivides into the following sections:-Green Zonals (Horseshoe), as in Madame Vaucher; Golden Zonals (Gold and Bronze Zonal), as in Beauty of Oulton; Marbled Zonals, as in Sheen Rival; Variegated Zonals (Tricolors, &c.), including the subsections of Golden, as in Mrs. Pollock, and Silver as in Italia Unita; Variegated Marginates, also including the subsections, Golden as in Golden Chain, and Silver as in Bijou; Green Concolors, as in Tom Thumb, and Golden Concolors as in Jason. MANCHESTER EXHIBITION OF 1868.-The Manchester Botanical and Horticultural Society has decided to hold another great Exhibition next year, in its gardens at Old Trafford, during the Whitsun week, nearly the whole of the Guarantors of the National Show of the present year having consented to renew their Guarantee for another year. It is intended to offer about £1000 in prizes. GARDENERS' EXAMINATIONS. - We have (page 25), mentioned the names of those young gardeners who gained Certificates at the 1866 examinations of the Society of Arts A. Stormont, Richmond ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, JULY. Ext.2 3 2 3 2 Besides the foregoing Certificates, the following prizes were gained : J. C. Higgs: Soc. of Arts' 1st prize, Fr. and Veg. culture. R.H.S. 1st prize, ditto. R. L. Keenan: R.H.S. 2nd prize, Botany. R. C. Kingston: Soc. of Arts' 1st prize for Botany and for Floriculture. R.H.S. 1st prize for Botany and for Floriculture. Gardeners' Chronicle prize. W. P. Roberts: Soc. of Arts' 2nd prize, Floriculture. R.H.S. 2nd prize, Floriculture. G. Stanton: Soc. of Arts' 2nd prize, Fr. and Veg. culture. R.H.S. 2nd prize, Fr. and Veg. culture. The preparation for these examinations is in itself so advantageous to young gardeners, that we urge upon them the importance of turning their attention seriously to the matter. The benefit resulting is far beyond the mere value of the Certificate obtained, though even that is not to be despised. This very NIEREMBERGIA FRUTESCENS. interesting new species was introduced to Europe about four years since, from the Andes of Chili, by M. Germain, an enthusiastic French naturalist, and having stood three winters at Bordeaux without any protection, will probably prove nearly, if not quite, hardy in this country. It is perfectly distinct from any species hitherto cultivated, or introduced. It attains a height of from 12 to 18 inches, when raised from seed and allowed to assume its natural form, but when struck from cuttings it will flower freely in a small state. Its habit is erect, but it only requires proper pinching in to make it as bushy as can be desired; it has neat linear foliage, and the flowers are white tinged with violet, the throat being yellow with deep violet rays, so that in colour they are not very dissimilar to those of N. filicaulis, though considerably larger. STANDARD GOOSEBERRY TREES.- In the villiage of Duffield, near Derby, there are four remarkable standard Gooseberry trees. The stems are fixed to an iron rod, and the heads trained on a circle of wire, beneath which the berries hang as thick as Grapes, and ripen beautifully. The trees are really fine productions of art. The tallest (Crown Bob) is 10 feet high, and 3 feet 10 inches across; the next (Crown Bob) 7 feet high and CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. Ar this season aim rather to perfect the growths already made than to encourage new growths, which it is now too late to mature; close up the houses early in the afternoon. Orchids still growing should not be checked till they have completed their growth, nor should they be stimulated to originate a new vegetation later than the diminishing light will be adequate to perfect; as light decreases gradually withdraw the shading. GREENHOUSE. Whilst the plants can for the most part be safely left out, the opportunity should be taken to thoroughly clean, whitewash, and paint the house, and put it in thorough repair. Plants out of doors should now be fully exposed to the sun's rays to ripen the wood; any that were not shifted in the spring may now be repotted, taking care that the balls are so thoroughly soaked, that water may pass uniformly throughout the whole soil. Cinerarias should have plenty of air night and morning, and sulphur must be ap plied in case of mildew; fumigate in case of aphides. Pelargoniums should be housed in good time; it is not well to leave them exposed too long to damp and cold. Towards the end of the month finally repot those intended for May exhibitions. Plants struck early should have their points pinched off, and they should make a good growth before the middle of January, so that they may have easier work in the spring. Japan Lilies should be shifted immediately they go to rest; rough peat, with sand, is suitable for them. load and vitiate the atmosphere more than is consistent with the delicate organisation of the former. See that any Chrysanthemums which may be introduced, are kept well watered at the roots. Large specimens of Salvia splendens should be put out of doors for a few weeks to invigorate them. FORCING. Pine Apples.-Plant suckers and crowns; keep them shaded in a warm, moist atmosphere till they begin to form roots, and then place them near the light. Fruits that are swelling should have a bottom heat of 84°, and a top heat of 75° at night, and of from 80° to 90° by day. Gradually reduce the supply of moisture as the fruit ripens. Succession plants may have manure water, the quantity being limited in dull weather; give a little air, if possible, in the morning, and shut up early in the afternoon. Vines.-The crop in the earliest vineries will be cut, and the Vines exposed to the influence of sun and air. Late Grapes should be kept dry with a be beneficial, and in the case of Muscats abfree circulation of air; occasionally fires will solutely necessary to ripen them perfectly. Remove berries as soon as the least symptom of decay can be perceived on them. Not only should the air of the house be kept dry for late Grapes, but the border should be protected from heavy rains, especially if the roots have been previously kept rather dry, moisture on the first saturation of the soil, for the spongioles will so rapidly absorb that the berries will be apt to burst in consequence, or to shank and decay. Melons. -Maintain a steady bottom heat, and keep the foliage moderately thin; but do not let Climbers will require to be dressed where it get too thick and then recklessly prune. too rambling, taking care, however, not to Water with great moderation. Cucumbers. cut away eligible portions that will produce-Give the beds a surfacing of rich soil, and late flowers, as in the case of Passifloras, Combretums, Thunbergias, Mandevillas, &c. Plenty of air should be admitted to harden the wood of the permanent inmates, and these should also be well exposed to light. Heaths should be kept apart from herbaceous plants, the exhalations from which latter tend to CONSERVATORY. at the same time some additional heat. Figs. -Supply water sufficient to prevent any want of circulation from dryness; the temperature should gradually advance as ripening proceeds. Mushrooms.-Spawn will run freely in this month; it may be introduced when the heat of the beds is about 70°. When in bearing about 60° is a good tem perature. Kidney Beans.-Sow in pots or boxes for a succession to the out-door crop. KITCHEN GARDEN. Plant out Cabbages from the principal autumn sowing in rows 2 feet apart each way, to remain for hearting; at the same time an intermediate row with the plants in it a foot apart should be planted-these to be used as Coleworts; for the same purpose a plant should be inserted between every two of the plants intended to remain for cabbaging. Plant out Cauliflowers from the August sowing. Hoe and thin Spinach; sow the Lettuce-leaved. Earth-up Celery when dry; the operation is best performed by putting the soil next the outside of the leaves by hand, keeping the hearts clear. A sprinkling of salt will keep Celery clear of insects. Sea sand answers well for blanching. Tie up Endive and Lettuce for blanching, and plant out successions. Water late Peas thoroughly, and mulch them next day. Take up and store Potatos, remembering that the certain consequence of exposing them to the light is the development of a bitter, poisonous principle. If Potatos are washed, the light acts with greater and more injurious effect, and there is no profit attached to this deterioration. If wet weather should set in, weeds become difficult to kill in autumn, especially if the hoe has not been thought necessary to be plied in dry weather; a weedless surface is soon hoed over, and thousands of seeds may exist in a state of incipient germination, which in a dry day could not survive the action of the hoe and rake; at the same time the particles of soil undergo a beneficial change from the action of the air or from fresh contact of different surfaces with the principles in the manure, all tending to set free the inorganic elements of the particles of the soil, and thus to supply all that vegetables want to render them succulent and well flavoured. FRUIT GARDEN. Peaches and Nectarines will now be ripening, and insects will persevere in their attacks, more especially on the ripest and best-flavoured. In order to annoy them in their lurking places, keep the hoe and rake moving frequently along the bottom of the walls. Earwigs are best entrapped in bean-stalks, as previously directed; wasps may be enticed in bottles with water sweetened with honey or sugar, or under a hand-glass baited with over-ripe fruit, another being placed over it, a hole in the top of the lower one forming an easy communication between the lower to the upper. Wall Fruit acquires a higher flavour by exposure to the direct rays of the sun than it does under glass, unless the season is unusually wet and sunless. When the fruit is gathered the trees should be gone over, and if any are crowded with suc cession shoots, some portion of the wood that has just borne, may be removed in order to benefit the succession shoots; but, unless for this reason, it is as well not to disturb the flow of sap until the leaves begin to fall. Leaves that shade the fruit should be turned aside. Where the fruit is all gathered let the foliage be kept well washed. Pears, Apples, and Plums that have pushed lateral shoots again should be stopped back to 2 inches. Clear off all runners of Strawberries not wanted, and with a knife cut the old outside leaves from the plants-they are almost inactive; but save the young ones, for these elaborate sap to make fresh roots and stems to support the crop of next year. FLOWER GARDEN. Secure tall-growing plants from wind; tie up Dahlias; propagate all kinds of Bedding plants. The sooner cuttings of Pelargoniums are put in the better. Plant rooted cuttings of Phloxes and other herbaceous plants, and also seedling Hollyhocks. Keep the Walks well rolled and the Lawns neatly mown; this is most evenly done by the machine, but if it should be done by the scythe circular scores, as if traced by chariot wheels, should not be exhibited. Turf may be laid in moist dull weather. As regards shrubs injured by the intense frost' at the commencement of the year, it may now be determined whether they had better be left to recover as they best may, or be finally removed. In case of the latter decision being arrived at, evergreens may be planted towards the end of the month; water well, but by all means shelter effectually from the sun's rays till the sap is observed to be in motion, and the buds swell. FLORISTS' FLOWERS. Auriculas.-Keep clear of weeds and decayed foliage; refresh the surface of the soil, as this will encourage young roots. Carnations and Picotees.-Commence potting into small pots towards the end of the month; give plenty of air, otherwise they will become tender; beware of too much moisture. Dahlias.—In shading do not closely shade the blooms whilst they are in a young state, and secure them from rubbing against the foliage. Chrysanthemums. These require plenty of water and liquid manure to produce fine blooms. Hollyhocks.-Cuttings of these strike readily in this month, and form good plants for next season. Seed should be gathered early in order that the flowering-spike may be cut off to encourage the root to throw up suckers; sow seed as soon as ripe. Pansies. -Plant out beds for blooming early in spring. Cuttings strike well in this month. Sow, but not later than first week of the month. Pinks.-The beds should be a little raised in the centre to throw off the wet. Pot some of the choice kinds for wintering under glass. Tulips. The soil in which they are intended to bloom should be occasionally turned. |