SEASIDE PLANTING.-It has been recommended, in order to establish trees on the seacoast, to plant thickly of Sycamores and Poplars for shelter, these seeming to do better than any other trees. The beautiful varieties of Hollies, which do remarkably well, and always give satisfaction are recommended. The following are also found to succeed, viz:Hollies of sorts, Yews, Box, Laurustinus; Laurels, both Portugal and Common; Arbutus, Aucuba japonica, Cotoneaster frigida and macrophylla, Evergreen Oaks, Privet, Gorse, Pinus austriaca, and Laburnums. Almost all shrubs and trees of the order Leguminosæ seem to do well. For instance, Lupinus californicus, grows about 4 feet high and 6 feet through, flowers very abundantly, and is quite hardy. The flowers are as large at those of the Laburnum, and stand erect, but the colour is not so deep a yellow. October and November is the best time to plant.

ROBINIA PSEUD-ACACIA FASTIGIATA.-M. Carrière states in Revue Horticole, that while if a cutting or a graft of this variety be taken from the upper portion of the tree, the fastigiate habit will be reproduced, and the branches will be furrowed and covered with short prickles; yet if the plant be multiplied by detaching portions of the root, then instead of a pyramidal tree with erect branches, a spreading bushy shrub is produced, with more or less horizontal cylindrical branches, destitute of prickles.

ARRANGING CUT FLOWERS.-A writer in the Gardeners' Chronicle observes that of all the mistakes that are made in arranging flowers, the commonest is that of putting too many into a vase; and next to that is the putting too great a variety of colours into one bouquet. Every flower in a group should be clearly distinguishable and determinable, without pulling the nosegay to pieces. The calyx of a Clove Pink should never be hidden by being plunged into the head of white Phlox, however well the two colours may look together. Sweet Peas never look so well in the hand as they do on the plant, because they cannot be carried without crowding them; but put them lightly into a vase with an equal number of pieces of Mignonette, or rather, ornament a vase half full of Mignonette with a few blooms of Sweet Peas, and you get a charming effect, because you follow the natural arrangement by avoiding crowding of the blooms, and putting them with the green foliage which they want to set them off. Few people are aware, until they try it, how exceedingly easy it is to spoil such a pleasing combination as this; a piece of Calceolaria, Scarlet Pelargonium, or blue Salvia would ruin it effectually. Such decided colours as these require to be grouped in another vase, and should not even be placed on the same table with the Sweet Peas; they also require a much larger preponderance of foliage to set them off to advantage

than is wanted by flowers of more delicate colours.

LARGE PEAR TREE.-At the Abbie of Lindores, on the estate of Mugdrum, are some unusually large Pear trees, mentioned 150 years ago by Sibbald in his "History of Fife." The trunk of the largest measures 17 feet 10 inches in circumference at 1 foot from the ground; at 9 feet higher up, where it branches off, it is 17 feet in circumference; and it is 44 feet in height. The spread of the branches is 53 feet in diameter; the circumference of one of the branches is 10 feet 8 inches, and that of another 8 feet 10 inches. It grows in deep alluvial soil, and bears abundant crops.

HABROTHAMNUS BERRIES. - Grown on a pillar in a conservatory, Habrothamnus elegans blooms freely from the autumn onwards, and during winter matures its large and beautiful clusters of rich rosy violet-coloured fruit, which equal in size those of the Black Cluster or Verdelho Grapes, and prove it to be most useful for decoration at a season when flowers and fruit for decorative purposes are extremely valuable. Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son some time since sent us some beautiful examples from one of their houses.

LIBOCEDRUS DECURRENS.-In reference to the propagation of this fine hardy tree by cuttings, which is well known to be a difficult process, a correspondent of the Gardeners' Chronicle observes:- "I have rooted upwards of a hundred, but I consider it a "slow-coach," and by grafting it upon Biota orientalis or Chinese Arbor Vitæ, I have plants in one-third of the time. I have had cuttings in the propagating-bed for upwards of a year, and with a callus as large as a hen's egg before rooting." This is the tree commonly called Thuja gigantea in gardens, a name which really belongs to the plant known as Thuja Lobbii.

SELAGINELLAS.-These are excellent plants for clothing the shady walls of a plant-stove. No better illustration of this fact can be found than is now to be seen in the Sheffield Botanic Garden, where the north wall of the Victoriahouse is draped with them, several species being mixed up together. We have never seen so pretty an effect produced by these refreshing-looking plants in any other situation. The wall is faced with a six-inch layer of coarse peat and rubble, with a little moss outside, the whole being held in position by strong galvanised wire netting, with rather wide diamond-shaped meshes; and the only attention required by the plants is a damping with the syringe daily.

NEW DOUBLE CRIMSON THORN. - The writer of our account of this plant at page 117, having been publicly charged with ignorance for recommending the present purchase of plants in pots with the view to flowering them next year, we simply point out in reply, that he has not directed them to be planted out, as is assumed by his critics.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

IF the nights are seasonably warm, little fire heat will be required; nevertheless for plants from the hottest tropical parts, as much should be given as will prevent the thermometer from falling below 70°, making allowance for a little air being given at the same time. This will render the growth firmer, and induce the formation of blossombuds, for without air a high temperature will tend rather to produce wood than bloom. Begonias, Euphorbias, Justicias, Poinsettias, and such plants as will be required for winterflowering should be shifted into larger pots as they require it, keeping them slightly shaded, and rather close till they strike fresh root, and commence new growth. Keep these and all the other plants clear of insects. For Orchids, keep up the former temperature, air, and moisture; shade from too hot sun. Shift Vandas and others when past flowering.

GREENHOUSE.

For the next two or three months, the place of Pelargoniums and Calceolarias may be taken by Fuchsias, Kalosanthes, Thunbergias, Lilium auratum, &c. Some showy annuals grown in pots may be introduced for contrast of colour, so that with these, and various plants from pits and frames, there will be no difficulty in still maintaining the house in a gay state. Pelargoniums that are nearly past Howering should be well exposed to sun and air in order to ripen their wood; previously to being cut down, and some time before and after this is done, the soil in the pots should be dry. Dust with flowers of sulphur Heaths and other plants attacked by mildew. Give air abundantly, and shift immediately any plants that require more pot room.

CONSERVATORY.

Plants in the border will now be growing strongly, and will much drain the soil of its moisture; this ought to be timeously supplied, in order that the foliage may be kept in good health. Plenty of air should be given, and this will cause a corresponding loss of moisture from the air of the house, which must be provided against by syringing the foliage, and also the surface of the soil. By these means good substantial growth will be ensured; but at this season it will also be rapid, and will require to be regulated, so as to be developed where it is desirable, and prevented where it is not so. In this way the energy of the plants will be nowhere misdirected; no growth should be made to waste at any period of the season, but, more especially at this, the most favourable for the complete elaboration of the sap, for originating blossom-buds and the latent rudiments of flowers. Many of the usual inmates of the conservatory may now be placed out of doors.

PITS AND FRAMES.

These will now be cleared of bedding plants, and the best opportunity is afforded for taking off the lights, painting the sashes and rafters, and whitewashing the walls. Previously to this, the interior might be fumigated with sulphur, provided the pit is well exposed to air, and a strong fire occasionally kept on before plants are introduced; for greater security some delicate-foliaged plants of various kinds might first be tried, for even recently-built walls have proved, before they were seasoned, injurious to plants. When all is safe the pits may be occupied with seedlings, or with cuttings, and pots of anything that requires to be placed near the light.

FORCING.

Pine Apples. When succession plants fill their pots with roots, shift them into fruitingpots. Give plenty of air with sun to plants of which the fruits are ripening. Supply no more water than is just sufficient to prevent suffering from dryness. Let the temperature, top and bottom, be about 85°, but the top heat may rise to 90° by sun heat. Plunge a thermometer, and watch carefully that the bottom heat never gets too high; if likely to do so remove the pot, and place it on a smaller one plunged mouth upwards. Plant crowns and suckers, as soon as their twisted-off end becomes dry, into three-inch pots. Vines.Keep the house dry wherein the fruit is ripe or ripening. Dryness is at that stage natural to the Vine in its native climate, and from this condition two important results are obtained— the fruit acquires good flavour, and the wood is firmly ripened. But with regard to later vineries where the fruit has yet to swell, the leaves should also be kept in a growing state, for on the good growth of the leaves mainly depends not only the swelling, colour, and flavour of the present year's crop, but also the success of the next and future ones. The richest horder, then, can be of no use without leaves; but grow plenty of leaves well, with sufficient light, air, and moisture, and the whole plant will grow; the roots in that case will push in almost any soil, and the spongioles will insinuate themselves and grow in crevices of rocks, and thence collect juice to an amazing extent in countries so hot and dry at certain seasons that, according to parliamentary evidence, wine was used instead of water to make mortar, the former being plentiful, cheap, and at hand, and the latter scarce and the dearer of the two from expense of carriage. Briefly it may be stated, that the berries cannot draw up and elaborate sap for their own use, nor for any other purpose: that is specially the office of the leaves. Since, therefore, the motion of the sap from its absorption from the soil in its crude state by the spongioles, to its return in an organisable condition from the leaves, depends on the

latter, nothing more need be said with regard to the great care that ought to be taken of them. Peaches and Nectarines.-When the fruit is all gathered syringe the trees so as to clean them thoroughly of insects. If dry at the root a moderate supply of water should be afforded, so that without encouraging too late a growth, the leaves by the natural heat of the season may exercise a healthy action till they drop, when the buds for next year shall have had all that they can obtain from this year's foliage. Figs.-Syringe till the fruit begins to form. Cherries.-Keep the foliage clean by syringing. Melons. Water thoroughly the beds before the fruit swell off, so that water will not be required when the process of ripening commences.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

All vacant ground should now be occupied, the various crops kept clear of weeds, and the surface should be frequently stirred. Sudden heavy rains run off without sink ing in to moisten the ground at the extremities of the roots, and in that case plants are apt to suffer; watering should, therefore, be more especially attended to. Sow the latest crop of Broad Beans, and in the middle and end of the month the principal winter crops of Endive. Sow early in the month a few of the Black Belgian Kidney Bean for a late supply. Sow Lettuces, Radishes, and Spinach for succession. Sow Cabbages in the first week for Coleworts, if not done before. The principal sowing of Early Battersea, or Vanack, and of Red Cabbage for autumn planting should be made in the last week; the 27th, on the average of many years, has proved the best time; but in late or northern situations the middle of the month is preferable. Sow some Early Horn Carrots for drawing young. Plant out the main crop of Celery. Peg down the shoots of Vegetable Marrows; they will root at the joints, and continue longer in bearing.

FRUIT GARDEN.

Regulate the summer growth with a view to produce a uniformity of vigour throughout the tree, by checking the vigour of those shoots that are too strong, and encouraging those that are weakly. It was a mistaken notion to encourage over-vigorous shoots to grow in order that they might exhaust their excess of vigour by their own growth. There could not be a greater error than this in the management of trees, for the more sap that flows to any particular branch, the more new channels will be formed for an increased future supply. The sap flows more readily into a vigorous shoot than into one that is weak; if a shoot is long and healthy it will have a proportionate number of leaves, and its growth will be in proportion to the number of leaves connected with it; reduce the length of the shoot, there will of course be fewer leaves, and the growth will consequently be diminished. Then, if the weakly shoot could be strengthened,

an equality of vigour would be approximated. A shoot can only be invigorated by increasing the foliage directly or indirectly connected with it. Syringe Wall Trees after 4 P.M. Set traps for earwigs. See that the upper shoots of pyramids are shortened much morethan the lower. Use tobacco dust for green fly. Mulch wall-fruit borders with stable-litter, and then water plentifully through it. Bud Apricots, then Cherries, Plums, Peaches, and Nectarines. Attend to untying and supporting grafts. Layer Strawberries; stop the runners beyond the rooted joint.

FLOWER GARDEN.

The operations in this are mostly reduced to the routine of mowing, sweeping, and rolling. Tie up the stems of herbaceous plants requiring support, not in close bunches, but so as each stalk may have freedom to grow. Clip hedges; regulate evergreens; train creepers. Bud Roses, and remove suckers as soon as they appear, otherwise sap will be diverted from its legitimate channels. Weeds in walks can be most readily destroyed by salt, but if it can be done by weeding, and keeping a smooth firmly rolled surface it is better.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

Antirrhinums. Propagate by cuttings under a hand-glass or frame. Auriculas.— Protect the plant from excessive wet. The soil intended for repotting should be fre quently turned over when moderately dry. Carnations and Picotees.-Attend to with water; weak liquid manure may be given occasionally; protect the blossom from sun and heavy rain; propagate by layering. Dahlias.

Water over the foliage towards 6 P.M., and see that the ground is not too dry. Plots for the destruction of insects, particularly earwigs, cannot be laid too soon; there may yet be few, but in the early part of the season the destruction of a few stops the increase of a vast number. Hollyhocks.-The propagating of these may now be extensively proceeded with. The small side shoots will afford cuttings, whilst the removal of these will throw strength into the main spikes. Pansies.-Plant out the first-struck cuttings, which will bloom in September and October; they strike with great facility in those months, but, although, precarious to strike now, it is desirable to put in all that can be made in order to fill up deficiencies caused by plants dying off. Pinks.-Good plants can be most readily struck by cuttings under bell-glasses, on very slight bottom heat. If the top of the leading shoot is carefully taken off, a large number of small shoots will push, and these will strike readily by the end of the month. Roses in Pots.-Hybrid Perpetuals and other Hybrids should be plunged, and the pots mulched over in the open air by the 1st of the month, and their shoots may be staked outwards, so that the wood may be well ripened for early blooming. The soil should be made sufficently moist and no more.