Page images
PDF
EPUB

to within 3 or 4 inches of the pot, and the plants are kept under glass until the end of May or beginning of June, when they are planted on a border at the back of a north wall. I have plenty of peat or leaf mould put in around them; they are then well attended to in watering until they begin to grow, after this they receive very little attention until the beginning of August, when I have the whole taken up carefully and potted; the small plants are put into as small pots as they can be put into without damaging the roots; the larger are divided into two or more parts, and these also are put into as small pots as they can be got into. When all are potted they are well watered and put into a cold pit or frame and kept rather close, and in bright weather shaded until they begin to root freely into the fresh soil, when air is given free y. When the plants have made some fresh roots and commenced growing they are all put into tolerably large-sized pots, the compost used being loam, cowdung, and sand. The plants are then carefully attended to during the winter and spring months in respect to watering, tying out shoots, and thinning leaves and weak shoots. These plants make beautiful specimens for spring flowering.

A quantity of plants raised from offsets cannot be brought sufficiently forward to flower so early as plants raised from seed sown in the first week in April; there are also much more labour and attention required in their culture during the autumn, when gardeners have so much other work to do in propagating, and in lifting and potting bedding plants. But even if first-rate varieties from offsets could be had in flower as early as plants from seed, gardeners would still hesitate to use them for in-door decoration. With seedling plants it is a very different case-they are raised annually in almost any quantity with very little labour or attention, and the loss of the plants after they have done flowering is of no consequence.

We want, good seedlings, however; if we can obtain flowers of good form, well and good, they will be all the more valued; but clear, bright colours we must have, we hope not to be disappointed.

Stourton.

M. SAUL.

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA.

Ar one of the recent meetings of the Floral Committee at South Kensington, some plants of Poinsettia pulcherrima were produced from the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society. They were from 2 to 3 feet in height, the foliage vigorous and healthy, and the "floral leaves" of an intensely bright vermilion colour. Their culture reflected great credit on Mr. Eyles, the Superintendent of the Gardens, who adopts as his method of growth that prescribed in the Gardeners' Chronicle for 1864, page 125. A summary of this mode of treatment may be of interest to many of your readers. The plants should be grown from single eyes taken from the hard well-ripened wood of the previous year. They should be placed in a very sandy peat, and the pot plunged into a brisk bottom heat, or a dung-bed, when they will root freely. They should then be potted in single pots, still keeping them in the frame until well established, after which they should be placed in a stove, keeping them near the glass. From the beginning of June till the end of September they should be kept in a greenhouse, and afterwards in the stove. Here they will soon put forth their brilliant heads of floral leaves, and make a beautiful display. Proper attention must be paid to watering, &c., during the time they are in the greenhouse. As it is a plant liable to be attacked by red spider, the under part of the leaves must be well syringed occasionally, but after the coloured leaves appear, syringing should cease. Young plants produce the most brilliantcoloured leaves; but when old plants are depended on, they should not be cut

back until they have partially dried off, or they will bleed so as to injure the plant. Good drainage is required, and the soil used should be equal parts of light loam, peat, and leaf mould, well mixed with silver sand.

R. D.

REMARKS ON FRUIT TREE CULTURE.-No. 6.

THE proper way of putting into practice those operations upon the branches of fruit trees which may be called restrictive, and the object of which is to induce the production of a habit of fruitfulness in opposition to a vigorous and luxuriant growth of wood, is certainly not by a severe use of the knife in winter pruning; but the operations referred to must be performed during the summer, when all the energies of the trees are in full activity, and, therefore, better able in a short time to repair any damage which a temporary interruption of their development may occasion. In point of fact, however, these operations must commence with the earliest growth of the young shoots, by the entire removal of all that are superfluous. When I say superfluous shoots, I mean not only all such as will not absolutely be required to keep the trees furnished with a gradually increasing development of wood, but also such as will not be necessary for the maintenance of an equal proportion of bearingspurs, or wood, as the case may be. This process is commonly called disbudding, and much of the future well-doing of the trees will depend upon its judicious performance. It is necessary that the operation should be performed gradually and at short intervals, at first by the removal of foreright and ill-placed shoots, and afterwards by the gradual removal of supernumeraries until the operation of disbudding becomes blended and carried on simultaneously with those of spurring and stopping, which will have to be practised more or less until a short time before the trees become comparatively dormant, and must be so modified in some cases and extended in others as to meet the peculiarities which different trees will develope in the course of growth. For example, we must consider that fruit trees subjected to artificial management are much more likely to be affected in their general constitution than such as are growing naturally and unchecked; and thus, with an equal amount of care in planting, the development of one will be strong, vigorous, and luxuriant, whilst that of another will be weakly and have a tendency to the precocious development of fruit; so that the latter will require encouragement and even stimulation, whilst the former must be very much checked.

Herein lies my principal reason for desiring to caution the young practitioner against the too common practice of generalising the treatment of fruit trees; on the contrary, their constitution and peculiarities should be studied. The trouble is no greater when the principle is understood, than is involved in an indiscriminate method of proceeding; and success, the result of a skilful application of principles, will be much more satisfactory to the operator than the results of chance. My experience on the subject has been mostly confined to trained wall fruit trees, and I have not had much among pyramids; but what I know on that subject convinces me that the principles which regulate the early removal of superfluous wood and the subsequent operations are applicable in both cases, and produce corresponding results, but that pyramids have this advantage that the system admits of a much greater latitude, and even affords facility for the production of fruit-bearing spurs. At the same time I must observe, that although in the culture of pyramids it may seem to be very desirable to be able to show evidences of skilful treatment in an excessive development of fruit-buds, and it may also seem quite natural that we should retain as great a number of them as possible in order to ensure a good propor

tion for final selection; yet in practice I feel convinced, reasoning from analogous circumstances, that it is bad policy on our part; because excessive blossom-bearing is a very exhausting process, and when a branch which is only calculated to carry two fruit to perfection is allowed to expend its energies and strength in bringing twelve or even fifteen up to the thinning point, it is quite evident that the greater proportion of the strength and energy so expended is for all practical purposes completely thrown away, and that the fruit remaining, although probably fine in the usual acceptance of the term, is not so fine or even full-flavoured as it might have been had some of the wasted strength been husbanded for its use. If such a waste of strength is permitted to pass unobserved in trees which may certainly be considered comparatively well managed, how great must be the waste where the fruit is never thinned until it reaches the stoning point, and the removal of superfluous growth takes place when the shoots have grown 6 or 9 inches.

The full advantages to be derived from good management can only be secured when the necessary operations are systematically conducted in a gradual and progressive manner, that no strength be wasted in the production of either wood or fruit which must eventually be removed. Now, as the application of principles, although common to all in most respects, yet vary in the mode in different varieties, I think it will be better when I resume the subject to select a few of the more popular sorts of fruit, and make a few remarks bearing on the practical application of those principles to each.

Redleaf.

JOHN COX.

THE PREMATURE RIPENING OF PEARS IN 1865. WITH me the most of the late-keeping Pears ripened in 1865 quite out of their usual season, and I fear this is general by the reports from Covent Garden Market of the short supply of Pears now coming in there. The only varieties left here for use at the present time are Suzette de Bavay, Prince Albert, Ne Plus Meuris, Belle de Noël, and Léon de Clerc de Laval, a variety that will keep as hard as a stone till June or July, and seldom become melting even then. Doyenné du Comice, Colmar, Surpasse Crasanne, Glou Morceau, Easter Beurré, and Beurré de Rance, all anticipated their usual season in ripening, and are now all consumed. No doubt the very dry summer in the midland counties, and the great heat of September and beginning of October, would cause Pears to ripen prematurely, and this must have had some effect on their keepingqualities.

I had this autumn some very large specimens of Pears, ripened in pots, of the following sorts:-Marie Louise, Huyshe's Victoria, British Queen, Beurré Diel, Doyenné du Comice, Beurré de Rance, and Glou Morceau; but these came in true to the season, having had plenty of water, when trees in the borders were suffering from the drought in September. Welbeck.

WILLIAM TILLERY.

ON PEARS AT CHRISTMAS.

ones but

THE past season was favourable for ripening Pears, especially late there have been complaints respecting their quality, and their not keeping. I had, however, the following kinds at Christmas:-Broompark, from an espalier, good, but nearly done; also Van Mons Léon le Clerc. Beurré de Rance, off walls with south and east aspects, was excellent, but, as usual, some of the fruit ripened at the end of November, while others of the same gathering may keep

until March; the same of Knight's Monarch, which is one of the best late Pears, whether grown upon walls, espaliers, or standards. Winter Crasanne was meally and worthless off a south-west-aspect wall. Joséphine de Malines, both from walls and espaliers, was of excellent quality, but the whole crop ripened before the usual time; also Beurré Gris d'Hiver off a west-aspect wall. Beurré Magnifique from an espalier, was very large, but of bad quality, as was the case in the previous season. Vicar of Winkfield, both from walls and espaliers, was very good, but nearly over. In bad seasons that beautiful-looking Pear may be classed with those for cooking. Figue de Naples, from an espalier, possessed a high flavour, somewhat like that of Marie Louise. Glou Morceau and Easter Beurré, off an espalier, were both of fine quality. Prince Albert, from walls with south and west aspects, was gritty and of bad flavour. Much has been said of this new Pear, which resembles Beurré de Rance both in size and colour, but not in quality. Mr. Rivers seems to doubt its quality, for he observes that it is "not always good." Ne Plus Meuris, from an espalier, maintained its usual good character, but was ripe too soon. Chaumontels, from walls with south and west aspects, ripened at the usual time, and some of them were nearly equal to those of Jersey. Passe Colmar was inferior, and it is seldom otherwise except when grown on a wall with a south aspect; and Winter Bon Chrêtien the same. Suzette de Bavay was unripe, but promised well; also Jean de Witte. Nouvelle Fulvie, from an espalier, was not ripe. I am doubtful of the goodness of this late Pear; last season it kept until March, and rotted while unripe. Shobden Court was hardly ripe, but of good flavour. I have doubts respecting the proper name of this excellent Pear, which I have grown for some years on espaliers. St. Germain, from a wall with a west aspect, was free from grit and its acrid flavour in bad seasons. Winter Nelis and Marie Louise were over, with the exception of a few which hung upon the trees until the end of November; and, perhaps, if they had not done so I should not have had either of these excellent sorts in good condition at Christmas.

Cossey Park.

J. WIGHTON.

THE CULTIVATION OF THE MUSHROOM.

To supply the requirements of a first-class establishment in respect to an abundance of vegetables of superior quality" all the year round" demands some forethought, a good deal of contrivance and a considerable amount of sound practical knowledge. Even under the most favourable circumstances when labour, manure, land, &c., are in abundance, there are still the variability of our climate and the very great and frequent differences between seasons, to contend against; to say nothing of the ravages made by rats, mice, birds, insects, &c.

An abundant supply of Mushrooms during the autumn, winter, and spring months is, however, a very easy matter when plenty of horse-droppings can be had. As in the artificial culture of the Mushroom we do not need the agency of light, we dispense with glass roofs, and with them all the unceasing attention to air-giving, &c. They will grow in any out-house, shed, or cellar, where the temperature does not fall below 50°. Even in midwinter, if the beds be made with a good thickness of droppings, say from 2 to 3 feet, and are kept well covered up with dry hay, Mushrooms can be grown in abundance. They will not, however, come so quickly as in a moist genial atmosphere of 60°. When a large supply is needed it is a wise economy to fit up a house specially for their culture. There is no regular Mushroom-house here; but as there is plenty of shed room, and as the fireplaces for the vineries are in some of the sheds, I have

no difficulty in finding suitable places for making beds-those for midwinter work I make in the warmest shed, in which there are two fireplaces, but at a considerable distance from the beds, so that I can keep up the temperature of the shed pretty easily without dunging the beds too much. The following is the mode of culture that I adopt; I am not aware that there is anything new in it—on the contrary, it may be as old as the hills for anything I know; it is, however, invariably attended with the most satisfactory results:-I have the horse-droppings brought every morning from the stables and spread out in a shed; they are not allowed to heat, nor to get over-dry. When there is a sufficient quantity for a bed I have it made as follows:-5 or 6 inches of droppings are spread on the floor the length and width of the intended bed, and a barrowful or two of maiden loam mixed in among them. The whole is then well trodden all over. I may here remark that the loam should neither be too dry nor too wet, it should be nearly in the same condition as soil that is fit for potting plants; I may also remark that the droppings should also be in the same condition. When the whole has been made tolerably firm by treading, a few inches more of droppings are placed on it, mixing some loam with them; this also is made firm by treading or beating; a fresh layer of droppings with loam mixed is added and made firm, and fresh additions are made until the bed is of the required depth, which is, for autumn work, from 18 to 20 inches; for winter, from 2 to 3 feet. The surface of the bed is made level, and a few pointed sticks are then thrust into it. If the materials have been in a fit condition and plenty of loam used, the beds rarely ever heat to an excessive degree. In general I have them spawned a week or at most ten days after they are made, and immediately afterwards I have them earthed up with good loam. Of course such beds are made under my personal superintendence. When the droppings have been fit, I have made beds, and spawned and earthed them all in one day, and with the most satisfactory results. Indeed, I have a bed which has been in bearing for several weeks past, that was made, spawned, and earthed up on the last day of September. Of course I do not recommend this plan for general adoption, I merely mention it to show that Mushrooms can be grown in abundance on beds made, spawned, and earthed up on the same day, when the materials are in a proper condition.

By using plenty of loam there is no fear of the droppings heating too much, and there is a gain of ten days or a fortnight, which is a matter of some importance occasionally, when Mushrooms may be wanted by a certain day, and the making of the beds has, from a pressure of other work or various causes, been put off ten days or a fortnight too long. I put the spawn in about 10 inches apart every way all over the beds, using pieces a little larger than a hen's egg. Smaller bits will do, but I think the larger size the safer, as in case the beds heat a little too much they will not suffer injury to the extent that small pieces may. The spawn in the latter may all be destroyed by a little extra heat; but if the pieces be tolerably large, it seldom happens that the spawn in the centre is all destroyed unless in cases of very great heat, which will rarely occur in beds made as mine are, with the droppings not too moist and plenty of loam mixed with them.

About six weeks after the beds are spawned and earthed up I have plenty of Mushrooms. Sometimes they will come a few days sooner, and at other times they are a few days longer. After the heat begins to decline I always keep the beds covered with dry hay, regulating the thickness of the covering according to the heat of the bed, the temperature of the shed, and the weather. By this means, and by paying some attention to the condition of the loam used in mixing with the droppings, also to that used for covering the beds, I very seldom have recourse to watering these. I have very little trouble with

« PreviousContinue »