even less, still the anecdote may serve as a warning to those who set fruit on their tables merely for show. To return to the Fruit Show, eight Uvedale's from France in Messrs. Webber's collection weighed nearly 20 lbs., and a dozen grown in Bedfordshire 22 lbs., these last measuring 12 and 13 inches round. Easter Beurré, Joséphine de Malines, and some others from the same firm were also very fine. Excellent Apples of several kinds, Pines, Grapes, Melons, Oranges, Pomegranates, Shaddocks, Prickly Pears, Litchees, fruit of a Solanum from St. Michael's, and various Nuts were also shown in this collection. That from Mr. Solomon was very extensive and fine, comprising twelve Pines of the Jamaica Cayenne, and Queen varieties, several kinds of black and white Grapes, Uvedale's and other Pears of a similar character to those noticed above, remarkably fine Apples, Truffle, Asparagus, green and blanched, green Peas, and other vegetables. Mr. Ingram, gardener to Her Majesty, had the Gold Medal of the Society for the best collection of fruit and vegetables produced in the garden of a Sovereign, an award which he well deserved. The six Smooth-leaved Cayenne Pine Apples which he exhibited were between 6 and 7 lbs. in weight, remarkably even in size and appearance, and beautifully ripened. Grapes, excellent Apples and Pears, and a numerous and good collection of vegetables were the other subjects shown by Mr. Ingram. Excellent collections of Apples and Pears were shown by Mr. Whiting, gardener to Mrs. Hope, The Deepdene, Dorking; Mr. Ford, gardener to W. E. Hubbard, Esq., Horsham; Mr. Smythe, gardener to Lord Sondes; R. Webb, Esq., Reading; and Mr. Dixon, Holland House. Mr. S. Snow, gardener to the Countess of Cowper, Wrest Park, Beds, contributed six Uvedale's St. Germain Pears weighing 13 lbs. 13 oz., a good weight, but not equal to that which is sometimes attained by this variety, of which a single fruit has been known to weigh upwards of 3 lbs. Miscellaneous subjects consisted of several Orange trees in pots from Messrs. Rivers & Son, and bearing very freely; some very fine Pomegranates grown in an orchardhouse without artificial heat by Mr. Downing, gardener to T. Grissell, Esq., Norbury Park; a fine mass of Eucharis amazonica from Messrs. A. Henderson & Co.; and vases formed out of Custard Vegetable Marrows, very tastefully filled with Violets and Ferns, exhibited by F. J. Graham, Esq. of Cran ford. In the colonial and foreign department the Fruit Growers' Association of Nova Scotia exhibited a fine collection of Apples, mostly of large size and highly coloured, also Pears. The Horticultural Society of Copenhagen sent a similar collection, in which were a number of varieties well known in this country, such as Reinette du Canada, Court Pendu-Plat, London Pippin, King of the Pippins, and Claygate Pearmain Apples, and Seckel, Uvedale's St. Germain, and Beurré de Rance Pears. There were, besides, a number of those highcoloured soft, light Apples which are very beautiful to look upon but very insipid to eat. Malta sent Oranges, Lemons, and others of the Citrus tribe, and vegetables which did not contrast favourably with those grown in our colder but richer soil, but the period at which the show was held was adverse to a good exhibition from that island. From Victoria came models of fruit and vegetables; from the Cape of Good Hope dried fruits; and from India tropical fruits in great variety preserved in spirits, and some of them not distinguished for the sweetness of their perfume. The Vegetable Show was good, though not large, and it had a neater appearance than vegetable shows generally present; there was not that roughness as if the things had just been plucked from the ground and thrown down on the tables, and there was not, on the other hand, that amount of trimming which deprives vegetables of their natural character; moreover, with a few exceptions, everything was neatly labelled. The principal exhibitors were Mr. Ingram, whose collection has been already noticed, Mr. Whiting, Mr. Budd, gardener to Earl Darnley, and Mr. Ford. Nova Scotia contributed thirty-eight dishes of Potatoes mostly large and very coarse, Onions, Beet, Parsnips, &c., and a fine collection of Gourds was shown by Messrs. Barr & Sugden. The Nuneham Park Onion was shown by Messrs. Cutbush, and a collection of Potatoes by the Rev. G. W. St. John. Northumberland Champion Celery was sent by Messrs. Dewar of Newcastle-on-Tyne; it is white, solid, and of excellent flavour. From the same firm came also Dewar's Improved Short-top Beet, a variety with a bright dark red flesh, and excellent when baked. At the Scientific Meeting of December 19th, in consequence of a recommendation of the Floral Committee that a medal should be granted to Mr. Veitch for a fine collection of Orchids and other plants exhibited on that occasion, W. Wilson Saunders, Esq., the chairman of the meeting, announced that the Council had taken the subject into consideration, and had decided on having a new medal struck to be called the Lindley medal, only to be given at Tuesday meetings, and as a medal. This will afford additional inducement for exhibitors to support these meetings, and will, no doubt, be the means of adding greatly to their interest. They are to be resumed early in the present year, though the date at which the first is to be held is not yet fixed. It is to be hoped that this year they will be as interesting, instructive, and well supported as they were in the past. The grant of this medal is an earnest of the desire which the Council have to increase the use fulness of these meetings, which are a common ground on which scientific and practical men can meet and interchange their views, and many interesting facts are thus elicited; moreover last year the display of flowers and fruit at some of the meetings was very large, and the room was crowded by many who at an ordinary exhibition would have seen, admired, and gone away no wiser than they came as to the nature, history, or uses of that which they had seen. Mr. between Messrs. Whitehorn and Kingsbury GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION.-His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has graciously consented to accept the Presidentship of this Institution, vacant by the death of the Duke of Northumberland, and has made a donation of twenty-five guineas to the funds. The chair at the next anniversary dinner is to be taken by Sir C. Wentworth Dilke, Bart., M.P. SOUTHAMPTON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The monthly meeting of this Society was held on Monday the 11th of December; the Rev. Dr. Cary in the Chair. There was a large attendance of members and friends. Among the subjects exhibited were blooms of that splendid climber the Ipomoea Horsfalliæ, as also a plant of the Calanthe vestita rubra, both of which were shown by Mr. Boyce, gardener to H. J. Buchan, Esq., who gave an interesting description of the characteristics of each, and his method of cultivation. Messrs. Windebank and Kingsbury sent some beautiful double Primulas of various shades of colour, among which was one of the CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.original double white, so that the great ad- The proposition for the amalgamation of this vance made in them might be seen. In a with the Edinburgh Horticultural Society, choice collection from Mr. Hayes was a mentioned in our last Number, was adopted plant of the Poinsettia pulcherrima, the on the 6th December, and a Council elected floral bracts of which, being fully expanded, from the two bodies under the presidency of rendered it an object of great admiration. the Duke of Buccleuch. The Experimental Mr. Blandford, gardener to Standish, Garden has been transferred to the Board of Esq., sent a collection of twelve sorts of Works, and will be converted into an arboreApples, many of them very fine. Mr. Dean tum in connection with the Botanic Garden. read a paper on spring flower-gardening, in which he adverted to the objection made to the modern system of parterre flower-gardening, that everything was sacrificed for the sake of obtaining gay bloom for a few months; pointed out how by a judicious arrangement of certain hardy blooming plants during the winter months, and especially in the spring, this objection might be overcome; gave a list of plants suitable for the purpose, with instructions as to their propagation; and concluded by asking the members to put the system he had advocated into practice. Mr. Whitehorn then read an interesting paper on that inexhaustible subject the Potato disease, in which he attributed the disease to our having departed from nature in our treatment of the plant, and pointed out the mode of cultivation which he considered most in accordance with its true character, and best calculated to ward off the attacks of the disease. After a sharp passage-of-arms MR. WEIR.-A circular has been issued by the Royal Horticultural Society inviting subscriptions in aid of Mr. Weir, their plant collector in South America. He was attacked Cockerell, Royal CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSES. No attempt should be made to excite a premature growth at this season by keeping a high temperature. From 55° by night to 63° by day should be the highest limits. At the same time the atmospheric moisture should be reduced considerably; water with great caution. Ixoras, Allamandas, &c., if wanted to bloom early, may be plunged in bottom heat towards the end of the month. Orchids. -These will be mostly in a state of rest, and merely want a comparatively cool and dry atmosphere till they commence their new growth. As soon, however, as they show indications of starting, let them be potted or redressed at once, or the newly-formed roots, if allowed to grow any length, would probably get injured afterwards. Those kinds which grow, more or less, at all seasons will require a night temperature of 60°, with an increase of 10° by day. Syringe the blocks, baskets, &c., each sunny day, and keep the internal air moderately humid by damping the pipes as occasion requires. GREENHOUSE. Where softwooded plants are principally grown a night temperature of 40° to 45°, with an increase of 10° by day, will be requisite. Camellias, as they swell their flower-buds, may be encouraged by weak manure-water. Train climbing plants, as they advance, to their respective supports, and guard against damp and mildew by proper aëration and the application of sulphur. Azaleas.-Water must be sparingly given, and only when the plants are dry. Give air daily, according to the state of the weather; remove decayed leaves, and any plants infested with thrips should be cleaned at once, by fumigating them with tobacco three or four times, with intervals of a day or two between. Cinerarias.-Plants for exhibition should receive their final shift into eight-inch pots-the size required by the principal societies. During this month give the plants plenty of room, and keep them near the glass. The side-shoots must be tied out as the plant progresses; this keeps them from drawing, and, if done properly, forms dwarf, handsome plants. Ericas.-Clean glass, good ventilation in mild weather, without exposing the plants to direct currents of cold air, and moderate waterings when requisite, embrace the principal points of treatment for the present month. Avoid much fire heat, as a substitute for which keep up the temperature of the house by some protecting material. A canvas, or even a calico screen, placed over the roof, will do much in this respect; and a temperature three or four degrees above the freezing-point is sufficiently high, if accompanied with dryness. Pelargoniums.-This is a convenient as well as proper time to tie out the shoots of plants intended for specimens. Keep the soil in a good state for repotting the July plants, which should be done towards the end of the month. Watch narrowly for green fly, and fumigate the moment it is observed. All dead foliage should be removed as it appears. Fancy varieties require similar treatment; they do not draw, however, if the house is kept a little closer than is desirable for other kinds of Pelargoniums. Give seedlings plenty of room, and water them but sparingly, destroying those that are "blind," or cankered with disease. PITS AND FRAMES. Bedding Plants.-Damp is the principal thing to guard against at this season; place delicate plants likely to suffer most in the driest situations; give air liberally in mild weather, removing the sashes entirely on sunny days (except in frosty weather), to dry the surface of the pots. Should mildew appear, dust the infected plants with sulphur. Water will scarcely be wanted, except in cases of extreme dryness, or unless the plants are in airy houses. Protect from frost by covering with mats, &c., by night. Cold Frames.-Our remarks on bedding-plants apply equally here. The bottom of cold frames, for wintering plants, should be coated over with asphalt or coal-tar, and laid with sufficient dip, to enable waste water to pass off quickly, by which the surface soon becomes dry; whereas, when it is absorbed by a porous material, it is again given off slowly, and causes a damp, unhealthy medium for plants to winter in. FORCING. Fruit.-Those who want ripe Grapes in the end of May or early in June must commence forcing at once. If the border is outside, it will assist the roots to cover it with warm dung, to which additions should be made, so as to maintain a mild heat on the surface; protect this covering from rain and snow by thatching, or throwing a tarpaulin over it in bad weather. For forcing thus early the Vines should have been pruned for some time; and now they will require dressing and training. Start with a temperature of 45° by night, increasing it a degree per week. Damp the Vines daily, and keep the atmosphere of the house moderately moist; give air each fine day, and let the thermometer range 10° or 12° higher by day than by night, with a slight addition during sunshine. Prune, dress, and train succession vineries and Peach-houses to be in readiness when required. To obtain early Strawberries, plunge some of the earliest-potted plants in a mild bottom heat under glass; this will bring them forward gently, and towards the end of the month they should be removed to a situation with a moderate temperature, and fully exposed to light, which will assist them to throw up strong trusses of bloom. Sow Cucumbers and Melons for the first spring crops in a good bottom heat; when the plants are up, keep them near the glass, in order to encourage a stocky growth. Forcing Flowers.Where Roses, Lilacs, Deutzias, American plants, &c., are forced for decorating the greenhouse or sitting-room, well-established plants of the above should be plunged in a very mild bottom heat, to forward them; a deep frame or low pit answers well for them. As the buds develope themselves remove the plants to a warmer house; keep them near the glass, and frequently damp their foliage. Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tulips, &c., with Lily of the Valley and Dielytra spectabilis, may have the same treatment. KITCHEN GARDEN. Should frost occur, wheel dung and compost to the vegetable ground, and rough-dig or trench vacant ground. A crop of early Peas and Broad Beans may be sown in a warm situation. Sow likewise a few Early Frame or Short-top Radishes and Horn Carrots for an early outdoor crop; cover the beds with straw or litter till the plants appear. Give the autumnplanted Cabbages a dressing of soot on a moist day. Protect Parsley, young Lettuce, and Cauliflower plants in frosty weather, and give air to those under glass whenever the days are mild, to keep them from drawing. all occasions when the weather will permit. water only when absolutely necessary. A good fumigating during this month is very beneficial by keeping aphides under. It gives the plants a yellow appearance for a time, but they soon recover, and are none the worse for it. The compost for these plants should be well turned and frosted during the winter, keeping snow from it. Dahlias.Choice new varieties, if a large increase is desired, may now be put to work in a steady heat. Roots of others, if not keeping well, or rotting down the stem, may also be started; for once fairly started they are safe; and if but a few plants are required from them, they may be placed in a cooler house. Pot-roots are the most easily wintered; these should remain under the stage of the greenhouse till March, when they should be started. If not already done, trench the ground intended for Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries should Dahlias next season, and it should remain be pruned in mild weather, and those against thrown up rough till May. Fuchsias.-These, walls or espaliers should be afterwards after cutting them in and repotting them in nailed or tied in. Cut away the old wood fresh soil, may now be placed in a gentle moist from Raspberry stools, selecting from three to heat to start them. Young cuttings strike very five of the strongest canes for bearing; these readily at this season, and will make good may be tied up to stakes or rods, but not plants for June and July. The Fuchsia is shortened back till the spring. Defer pruning easily grown, but succeeds best in a rich soil. Gooseberry and Currant bushes till spring, Seed should be sown this month. Hollyhocks. as many of their buds are often destroyed in hard weather by sparrows and other hardbilled birds. All kinds of hardy fruit trees may be planted in open weather, if their roots are covered directly afterwards with half-decayed dung or litter, to protect them from frost. FRUIT GARDEN. FLOWER GARDEN. Keep the turf, edgings, and gravel walks clean; well roll the latter after frost or rain, to keep them firm; let the borders and beds, if not planted up, be kept neat by raking over the surface. Protect half-hardy plants from frost with fern or branches of evergreens stuck round them, and cover the roots of such plants with sawdust or old tan for the like purpose. Roses. Beds of Tea-scented or China on their own roots should be covered with 3 or 4 inches of ashes or old tan, or with 5 or 6 inches of moss. Worked plants of Tea-scented, if in an exposed situation, had better be taken up and placed under a south wall, covering the heads with litter; or if not removed, tie fern or cuttings of evergreens on their heads, or cover them with a cap of calico painted and strained over a dome made of split Hazel. These will last for years. Lose no time in planting as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Cuttings will require careful watching this month, to prevent their damping off. Go over them daily, and strip them of decayed leaves, and dry them when the weather will admit of its being done without injury to the cuttings. The old stools and established plants will remain nearly dormant for another month, and will take no harm if wintered in a suitable pit or frame; a cold, damp situation should be avoided. They winter well in the front of a greenhouse; but this cannot often be spared for the Hollyhock, which is anything but an interesting subject in the winter months. Pansies.-The soil for blooming these in pots, which should have been prepared in summer, must be well turned and kept tolerably dry, in readiness for use the first week in February, when they require their final repotting, pegging out the shoots at regular distances. The plants should be raised near the glass, and grown as hardy as possible. The frames should only be closed during very bad weather. Pinks, after severe weather, should be gone over on a fine day, pressing firmly into the soil such as may have been loosened by frost. Very choice varieties should be protected from cutting winds, by placing small propagating-glasses over them during their continuance, removing the glasses as often as it is fine. Tulips.-These, if they have not yet made their appearance above ground, will only require the ordinary treatment of covering during rain snow. The frost must be severe indeed to injure them before they make their appearance, particularly if the beds have been kept dry. or |