can be induced to bring their fruit to the stoning point. There are cases in which, although covered with bloom, and thus to all appearance well set, the vigour of the trees is so great that the woody growth appears to absorb all the sap, and the fruit drops off abortive. It is passing strange that there is a natural tendency in fruit to fasten itself and fatten, as it were, upon the weaker branches. Such is, however, invariably the case, and the knowledge of the fact is useful in practice; for if the strong trees before alluded to can be induced to carry fruit, it will operate beneficially by weakening the process of the formation of woody growth; but if not, then the quickest remedy will be root-pruning early in October. In anticipation of that operation a more considerable development of woody growth may be allowed, in order that the operator may have a good choice of fruit-bearing wood in the next season; for it is not to be understood that the operation of root-pruning is calculated to render a tree barren the following season-on the contrary, the check appears to be just that threatening of life which induces the strong shoots to carry their fruit. Of course, the operation must be performed at the right time, particularly as in some cases it may be best to lift the tree entirely and replant it— a practice which may be followed out with even large full-grown trees with very great advantage, whether for the purpose of checking luxuriance by rootpruning, or that of renovating the borders by the removal of old compost and supplying new.

The routine of treatment of the young trees during the second year will not materially differ from that before advised for the first year. As, however, the circumference to which the outer branches extend becomes increased, timely provision must be made for keeping it well furnished, by training out an extra shoot from the under side of the leading branches. They may not always be required when the tree is re-trained, but it is always best to have a few shoots in reserve, for in this uncertain climate great injury frequently results from accidental causes over which we have no control. These extra shoots need not be entirely removed if not required, but should be shortened to about five or six buds, and one shoot selected and trained from each the following season. They will contribute to preserve the vitality of the central part of the tree, and give the operator a chance of thinning out the extremities and keeping his trees at home. Redleaf.

JOHN COX.

PLEROMA ELEGANS.

THIS splendid Melastomad is chiefly interesting from the fact that it produces abundance of its deep blue-purple flowers on comparatively small plants, and may be managed without a plant-stove, which most of its neighbours require. The fact that the large flowers are produced most freely on the points of last year's shoots furnishes the key-note to its culture. The next thing essential to success is that it will not thrive if kept in a plant-stove, nor yet will it thrive if kept in a cool greenhouse. In the one case it will get straggling, and the wood will not ripen well enough to bloom freely; and in the other the plant will assume a starved appearance, and become brown and unhealthy.

In propagating it by cuttings, any time during summer would do; but, as a matter of choice, I would prefer March or April. The points of shoots getting firm at their base would answer, but I prefer firmish side-shoots, from 2 to 3 inches long, rather green at the point, but brownish and firmish at the base. These are to be cut across at a joint at the bottom, the leaves there removed; the pair above either removed or shortened, and, if long, a

little shortening given to all but the terminal ones. They may then be inserted in a well-drained pot, in silver sand over very sandy peat. The success will be all the more certain if a small pot is reversed in the centre of the cuttingpot, so that the base of the cuttings may abut on the centre pot. Fill any holes made by the dibber with silver sand; water well; and, when the sand is firm and the plants dry, cover the pot with a bell-glass, and plunge the pot in a mild bottom heat, shading the glass in bright sunshine, but giving no shade when cloudy, removing it early in the afternoon, and giving a little air under the glass at night, replacing it before sunshine in the morning, and preferring to keep the atmosphere surrounding the cuttings and the bed somewhat moist instead of watering the cuttings much. When struck, pot-off singly in small pots, or three round the sides of a four or five-inch pot, using at first a light soil, as three parts of heath soil to one of loam and one of silver sand, and increasing the amount of sand as the plant gets older.

even more.

Under the most favourable circumstances, a cutting could hardly be expected to make a show as a flowering plant under three or four years, or Amateurs would, therefore, be nearer their purpose to procure from a nurseryman a nice, bushy, healthy plant, in a four or a six-inch pot; and though I give the process of propagating, yet, with all such things, it it will be the truest economy to keep in mind the division-of-labour principle and purchase a nice plant, as propagators by profession can do all that sort of thing at half the labour and expense that any amateur, or any gardener with a great variety of plants demanding his attention, could by any possibility do.

Supposing the plant to be obtained, my cultural remarks will chiefly have reference to getting it to bloom early in the summer of the following year. The plant, then, home-raised or purchased, being a nice little stubby plant in the end of March or beginning of April, and occupying a five-inch pot pretty well filled with roots, I would keep the plant in a temperature of from 50° to 55°, with a view to promote free growth, and this, especially in a bought plant, for a fortnight or three weeks after obtaining it, so that all the stagnation of the journey might be got over. The next thing to do is to give the plant a larger pot. Unless in skilful hands that will regulate watering to a nicety, very large shifts are to be avoided; but so are very small ones, as the plant seems to need a little nursing after every shift. Well, supposing the plant is in a five-inch pot, I would transfer it to a seven or an eight-inch one, draining the pot well, using a little broken sifted charcoal over the drainagethat is, getting rid of the dust; then gently disentangle the roots outside the ball, so that they shall run at once into the new soil, taking care that before shifting the ball is thoroughly and sufficiently moistened, as fresh-potting such a plant dry is next door to throwing it away. The soil should be in good order, neither wet nor dry, and picked-in pretty lightly among and to the roots.

For plants about this size three parts of heath soil to two of loam should be used; and one part more may consist of silver sand, broken pots, and nodules of charcoal, so as to allow free passage for water. When the plants come to stand in a ten or twelve-inch pot, the fibry loam and heath soil may be in equal proportions, and then the loam will insure more stubbiness in the growth. Then, too, a little fine leaf mould may also be used in the soil. A · little moss will likewise be an advantage between the soil and the drainage.

FIRST SUMMER'S MANAGEMENT.-After potting, it would be well to raise the temperature gradually from 50 to 60°, using a little shade in bright sunshine, and frequent sprinklings overhead, until the roots are working freely in the fresh soil. Until then, water should be given carefully, so as not to deluge the fresh soil until the roots get into it. A skiff from the syringe will be useful in sunny afternoons until the end of July. As soon as you perceive the roots

are taking fresh hold, the training of the plant should commence, fastening some shoots nearly horizontally, but letting their points have an upright direction, so that the plant when full grown shall have an orbicular form. Many of the shoots will need no stopping, owing to their comparative weakness; but all the stronger shoots will need to be stopped several times, so as to insure compactness and regularity of growth. When blooming next season is resolved on, no stopping of shoots should take place after the end of June. Water will be required in greater quantity as the sun gains strength; and as the roots get to the sides of the pot, manure water will help to give strength and colour, using it in a clear and weak state. Were I not to think of blooming the plants the following year, I would shift again in June; but, wishing to have flowers, I will not do so, but will gradually give the plant more air after July, to consolidate the little shoots.

AUTUMN AND WINTER TREATMENT.-In August, in addition to giving more air in a greenhouse, I would prefer the plant to stand in a cold pit, with glass over it, air being afforded back and front. In September, I would gradually diminish water, and by the end of the month put the plant in a house where the temperature will not be below 45°, nor above from 50° to 55° with fire heat, during the winter. Water, also, should be given carefully, and the plant will be safer if the pot stand inside of a larger pot, with damp moss stuffed between them. In spring, the plant may have from 5° to 10° higher temperature, as the sun gains power, and more moisture in proportion, which I will cause the flower-buds to show and swell.

When in bloom, the plants will keep their beauty longer in a cooler atmosphere, and with a little shade to break the fierceness of the sun's rays. When done flowering, give what little pruning is necessary. Encourage the plant to grow, shift into a larger pot if necessary, keep close and moist until there is free fresh rooting, and, in autumn, give more air and sunlight, as already described, and house in time for the winter. If a little fly appears, smoke in the usual way. The most troublesome insect is the thrips, and the best preventive is a free use of the syringe when growing, and frequent smokings and washings as soon as one is seen. If manure water is used from the droppings of animals, it would be advisable to soak the droppings at first in boiling water, which will destroy all vermin and their eggs, and the water may be reduced enough afterwards. In watering in winter, the water should be soft, and a few degrees warmer than the atmosphere of the house.

CULTURE OF THE PEACH AND NECTARINE.

F.

Ir may seem superfluous to write upon the culture of the Peach and Nectarine, because so many cultivators have already given their experience on the subject. Now I have been a grower of these fruits for nearly half a century, and during that long time I have studied the various causes of success, and, what is equally important, the causes of failure; and the result of my reflections leads me to the conclusion that there are several points of culture that the writers on this subject have either entirely overlooked or have not given sufficient importance. I have come to the determination, therefore, of writing a few notes on their culture; and in so doing, I shall endeavour to treat fully of everything necessary to be done in order to grow healthy long-lived trees that will produce annually a fair crop of fruit. I attempt this with all due deference to those who have gone before me, and shall not, in order to set up myself as a critic dwell upon, or even mention, where I think they are mistaken or not explicit enough to be understood by the tyro in Peach-culture.

I know, of late years, it has been the fashion to decry the hardihood of these fruits in this country. Now that glass is cheap every unsuccessful grower says the Peach should be in all cases covered with glass to ensure a crop. I would ask such, Are you prepared to prove that the climate of this country is more severe than it was thirty or forty years ago? Unless that can be proved I opine that, with proper care and close attention to a proper course of culture, from making the border to the ripening of the first crop of fruit, the trees bearing these delicious fruits can be grown as successfully now as our older gardeners grew them fifty years ago. It is true when unfavourable seasons occur unprotected trees will suffer; but in such seasons the skill, attention, and forethought of a good gardener will be brought into play to overcome the untoward weather, and success in such seasons shows the difference of skill. Any careless cultivator can have a crop of fruit in warm summers, provided the preceding one has been warm also to ripen the wood of his Peach trees. But that is not sufficient for the owner; he wants fruit every year, and if he has provided all things necessary he ought to have his want supplied.

The question now arises, What is required in order to succeed with moderate attention in cultivating the Peach in this country without the aid of glass? The first thing is a proper situation. Formerly a great notion was entertained by our gardeners, or planners of gardens, that a low sheltered situation was the very best for a garden. That mistaken idea is, I think, now entirely exploded. A low situation, instead of being the best, is the worst for a fruit garden. The most careless observer must have remarked that tender plants suffer earliest from frost, both in the spring and autumn, in low grounds; whilst on moderately high land the slight frost has no effect on them. Many an autumn eve we see heavy mists on low grounds, whilst higher land is quite clear of them. The reason of this is that cold air is heavier than warm air, and therefore it sinks down by its gravity and shows itself as mist, displacing the warmer; and when the cold is so intense as to reach the freezing-point, vegetation suffers. These patent facts lead to the conclusion that a fruit garden should be placed on a moderately elevated platform. Even an elevation of 50 or 100 feet above the bottom of a valley would be desirable. I might give many instances of places where the gardens are placed in low situations, where such fruits as the Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot often fail in yielding fruit. Sufficient for my purpose it is to mention Chatsworth, Worsley Hall, Trentham, and the old garden, now removed, at Welbeck. In such places where the gardens are still continued it has been found necessary to cover the Peach walls with glass, in order first to ripen the wood, and secondly to ripen the fruit. This covering of glass is not adopted for the purpose of forcing the fruit into early maturity, but is used merely as a protection against early and late frost. In a properly elevated situation the glass as a protective agent may be dispensed with.

From the above remarks I think it will be seen, that in order to succeed in Peach-culture against walls without glass, it is desirable-nay, absolutely necessary, to place the garden, where possible, in a moderately elevated situation. If there are higher grounds on the north, north-east, and north-west sides of the garden, and those bills are planted with forest trees to shelter the garden from the winds blowing from these quarters, you have the best situation immaginable, not only for fruit-tree walls, but for every other production expected from a garden. Let every one, then, who has the forming of new gardens, study over the above remarks, and, if possible, choose such a site for the fruit and kitchen garden.

SOIL.-The next most important agent for the production of the fruits, Peaches and Nectarines, is the soil. This includes drainage, subsoil, and surface

soil. In the course of my experience I have observed that all stone fruit, without any exception, thrive best and are most fruitful in calcareous soils. In the limestone districts of Yorkshire the Peach trees against walls, where properly attended to, are healthy and fruitful; and round the town of Sherborne, where limestone abounds, that excellent preserving Plum, the Winesour, grows in the hedges and bears profusely, and also the Damson Plum is still more common. Almost every cottage has its garden hedge formed of these excellent fruits. I mention these as a proof of my maxim that stone fruits thrive best in the limestone districts, where the subsoil is formed entirely of that material. The garden at Womersley Hall, the seat of Lord Hawke, has a subsoil of limestone; and there Peach trees live to a great age and bear fruit plentifully. Also near there is Byram Hall, the seat of Sir John Ramsden, and the garden is also similar to Womersley as to its soil. In that garden some years ago there was the finest Peach wall in the kingdom. I forget the length, but it was considerable, and eight trees completely covered it, not a sickly branch to be seen. They were trained in what was termed the Seymour method, which I shall describe presently.

Well, what does all this amount to? Why, that whoever has the oppor-tunity should form his Peach-borders with soil containing calcareous matter.

Let me, however, begin at the beginning. Supposing it is determined to make a Peach-border, either in a new garden or an old one, begin first by excavating the soil; the necessary width for ordinary walls need not exceed 12 feet. In general, as a useful rule, let the border be the same width as the wall is high. Then as to depth, 18 to 20 inches will be amply sufficient. The width being set out, then cut a main drain deeper than the bottom of the border: this main drain should be built with bricks laid flat and covered with flags the exact size of the drain. It should be placed at the side of the border the farthest from the wall, then form transverse drains across the border. If the subsoil is wet these cross-drains should only be 10 feet apart; if moderately dry then 12 or even 15 feet apart would do. Lay earthen tiles at the bottom, connecting them with the main drain in front; of course, these cross-drains should have a gentle fall to carry off the superfluous water; next fill up the drain above the tiles with open rubble or scoriæ from which the smaller particles have been sifted out; then, if it can possibly be procured, lay all over the border a layer of broken unburnt limestone. If this, however, cannot be obtained, then, instead, cover the bottom of the border with brickbats mixed with rough pieces of lime rubbish. This completes the drainage.

These trees require, in order to produce healthy, fruitful, and long-lived specimens, a strong pure loamy soil of an adhesive character, such as an upland good pasture would furnish. Take it off in turves about 3 inches thick, and cart it home near to the garden. Lay it in a long heap, and when sufficient is procured commence at one end to chop it into small pieces, and whilst that is going on mix it thoroughly with some old lime rubbish, unless you are so fortunately situated as to obtain the turf from a pasture on a limestone basis, then the lime rubbish will not be needed. Whilst the chopping and mixing process is going on procure some thinner turves, and with them cover the drainage grass side downwards. This will prevent the finer particles of the soil from falling into and choking up the drainage. When that is done lay some boards or planks, and wheel in the soil to one end, forming the border with a very gentle slope to rather more than the full height to allow for settling. From 18 inches to 2 feet will be ample depth. If the garden is situated on a level country, I would advise the border to be raised a foot higher than the general level; but if the garden is on a gentle eminence, as recommended above, then it may be nearly level with the rest of the garden.