After the "missing link" (the road between the Second and Third Forests) has been supplied, the traveler will be offered a tour of the oldest forest in the world, and the odd and wonderful sights therein will make it a never-to-be-forgotten trip.

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT.

ANDREW LIND, Custodian, Sausalito, Calif.

During the past season the Muir Woods National Monument has been improved by the graveling of the automobile road that traverses it. This road is now in very good condition and has been used extensively by automobiles during the past season.

Five thousand and forty feet of water pipe were laid and 10 hydrants installed in order to afford better facilities for the visitors to the park in obtaining water for drinking purposes.

All trails have been cleared of brush and otherwise repaired and all fallen trees and branches have been cleared away.

The wild animals in the park include deer, coons, grey squirrels, foxes, and coyotes. During the summer months there are a number of blue jays in the park and also many wild canaries.

During the past season approximately 42,200 visitors entered the Muir Woods National Monument; 15,600 came by train, 1,600 by private automobile, and 25,000 made the visit on foot.

TUMACACORI NATIONAL MONUMENT.

FRANK PINKLEY, Custodian, Blackwater, Ariz.

The Tumacacori National Monument was created by proclamation dated September 15, 1908 (35 Stat., 2205), to protect the ruins of the Tumacacori Mission. The monument contains an area of 10 acres. The ruins of this mission are well worth preserving, as they are of more than local or State interest in that they represent one of the units of the first line of settlements pushed into the United States west of the Rio Grande.

They should not be studied separately, but as a member of a chain of missions consisting of San Gabriel de Guevavi, San Cayetano de Calabasas, St. Gertrude de Tubac, San Jose de Tumacacori, and San Xavier del Bac.

I consider the walls now standing at the site of the Guevavi Mission as the oldest mission walls now standing in Arizona. They date from about 1730, and are possibly a few years older than that. The other mission walls have either been built or rebuilt at a later period.

The name Guevavi is from the Papago language and means large well. Tumacacori means place of many small fields. Bac is a species of grass which grows in low marshy ground. These places probably bore these names long before the missions were founded. They are located along the Santa Cruz River, which for generations before the arrival of Europeans must have been used as a thoroughfare for all north and south travel from the Gila River into the northern part of Mexico.

The mission at Guevavi is in ruins and can not be restored. Parts of the church wall are still standing, and the walls of the outer buildings can still be traced on the ground. It is to be hoped that the State, county, or near-by town can be roused to the point of spending a few hundred dollars in underpinning and protecting the present standing walls, but it would be useless to try to restore it to its original state.

The mission at San Xavier, about 12 miles south of Tucson, is in an excellent state of preservation, is under the charge of and is now being used by the Catholic Church.

The Tumacacori Mission, in earlier times called San Cayetano de Tumacacorl and in later times San Jose de Tumacacori, is located 49 miles south of Tucson and a little more than 18 miles north of Nogales, in southern Arizona.

The site of the mission was first visited by Padre Kino in 1691.

Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, S. J., the pioneer missionary in this county, was born about 1646. He came to Mexico from the Old World in 1681 and stopped in Mexico City until 1686. He then went north and established his first mission, that of Nuestra Señora Dolores, on March 13, 1687. From this headquarters, between 1687 and the time of his death in 1711, he made many trips into the valley of the Santa Cruz River. Leaving Dolores in 1691, Father Juan Maria Salvatierra and Father Kino traveled by way of Santa Maria Magdalena Pueblo and a land called El Tupe, to the mission of San Pedro y San Pablo de Tubatama on the Altar River. Thence they went to Saric and Tucubabia in the same vicinity. Here they were met by a delegation of Sobaipuris, from the region about the present Tumacacori Mission. The Indians asked the fathers to visit them, and, according to Ortega, they did so, going by way of Guevavi to Tumacacori, thence back to Santa Maria de Suamea, and thence to Cocospera.

There is, as yet, no evidence that missions were founded at either Guevavi or Tumacacori on this first visit, but Father Kino passed this way again in 1692, 1694, 1696, 1697. and 1699, and it is reasonable to suppose he talked and preached to the Indians, preparing the way for the resident priests who came later.

Engelhardt says that only two or three Jesuits are known to have worked in the field near the Arizona border before 1730. In 1731 a small reinforcement of Jesuits came in, two of whom were sent to the north and effected what may be regarded as the first Spanish settlement in Arizona. Father Felipe Segesser took charge of San Xavier and Father Juan Baptista Grasshoffer of San Miguel de Guevavi, which from this time may be regarded as regular missions, the other rancherias, among which was Tumacacori, becoming visitas, or missionary stations.

At this time, or soon after, a building must have been erected at Tumacacori, although we have no notice of it until we learn that it was attacked by Apaches in 1769 and was almost in ruins in 1772. It was repaired by 1784, and Bancroft says it had become a mission instead of a visita by 1784 or earlier. This first building, which was reroofed in 1791, may have been destroyed in one of the Indian raids subsequent to 1800.

The present church was under construction in 1822, but work was being held up by a delay over the payment for some cattle which were being sold to raise funds, and a study of the walls will convince one that the building was never entirely completed. Fray Narcisso Gutierrez was the minister from 1814 to 1820; Juan B. Estelric, 1821 and 1822; and Ramon Liberos from 1822 to 1824.

From

Father Liberos made an entry in the burial record of the mission to the effect that on December 13, 1822, he had removed the bodies of Father Carrillo and Father Gutierrez from the old church to the new and buried them on the gospel side of the altar. this evidence it is reasonable to assume that the present church was under construction at the death of Father Gutierrez in 1820 and was not yet in use, but by the latter part of 1822 services were being held in it and, the old church being abandoned, the bodies were removed to the new. On the evidence as it stands, we cannot assume the present mission walls at Tumacacori to date earlier than 1800.

Tumacacori Mission must have been abandoned soon after 1824. Prof. Thomas Davies, superintendent of the Aztec Syndicate Mines, wrote that when he first passed down the Santa Cruz Valley in 1849 the church roof was nearly intact and much of the interior was in a good state of preservation. There were many fruit trees, pomegranates, peaches, etc., bearing profusely, and the walls that once inclosed the orchard and garden could still be traced by the eye.

In the last report, dated 1860, made to the mining organization of which he was general agent, Prof. W. Wrightson thus describes the Tumacacori Mission:

The church is an adobe building plastered with cement and coped with burnt brick. The front is of the Moorish style, and had on the southeast corner a tower, the top of which was burnt brick. The roof of the church was flat and was covered with cement and tiles. The timbers have now fallen and decayed. The chancel was surmounted with a dome, which is still in good preservation. Adjacent to the church, in the form of a hollow square, were the residences of the priests, containing spacious and airy rooms, with every evidence of comfort and refinement, while surrounding these in the Interior was an arched colonnade forming a shady walk around the whole inclosure. To the east of this square of sumptuous residences was an oblong building, where the metallurgical operations were carried on. Here are still the remains of furnaces and quantities of slag, attesting the purposes for which this was formerly used; and further still to the east was the garden, inclosing about 5 acres and surrounded by a cahone wall. The acequia passed through this, and here are the remains of a bathing place and washing vat. There are also fruit trees and vines still growing; while in the rear of the church is the campus santi, a burial ground surrounded by a strong adobe wall, well covered with cement and forming even now the best inclosure in Arizona. To the south of the mission building and fronting the church was laid out a large square or plaza, which was surrounded by peon houses, thus forming a respectable village."

In describing the Tumacacori Mission and surrounding mounds and traces of buildings we will divide them into the church building, which will include the baptistry and sacristy; the cemetery and mortuary chamber; the outer buildings and inclosures; and miscellaneous structures.

THE CHURCH BUILDING.

The church building is built for the greater part of sun-dried adobe bricks laid in mud mortar. The walls average about 6 feet thick at the base and are stepped back so they are about 21 to 3 feet thick at the top. In places where great weight was to be carried, as in the tower, the walls are nearly 10 feet thick. Where exposure to the weather was liable to occur, burned-adobe bricks were substituted for the sun-dried bricks. Burned bricks were used in capping walls and in constructing the bell tower.

The church building lies northerly and southerly, with a width in front, including the tower, of about 52 feet, and a length, on the west side, of about 104 feet. It has three essential divisions-the church room proper, the sacristry, which is attached to the church on the east side at the north end, and the tower, which is attached to the east side at the south end. The tower was apparently considered as a separate unit in designing the façade, as the decoration of the front of the church was not carried across its base.

Approaching from the south the visitor will notice that the façade is in bad condition. As it was originally designated the façade had a two-story effect, the upper story being surmounted by a semicircular pediment. The first story was marked by four columns placed in pairs, the arched entrance being between the pairs. Well up between the columns niches were placed for the reception of statues. These columns were attached to the wall for their full height and bore on their capitals an attached lintel running across the face of the church. Mounted on this lintel four other attached columns were placed, forming the second-story effect. Two of these were on either side of the choir-loft window, and between each pair of these columns was another niche for the reception of a statue. These upper columns supported another attached lintel. The façade at present is broken off just above this lintel, but when completed the wall ended in a semicircular pediment, and rising into this pediment from the ends of the upper lintel ran a cornice having a gable effect. The two slopes of this cornice did not meet, but left an open space on the wall about 4 feet wide, and standing in this space and resting on the upper lintel was a statue, probably of the patron saint, St. Joseph. The facade of the San Xavier church has the figure of St. Xavier at its top.

The whole façade was surrounded near its edge by a heavy molding projecting about 6 inches from the face of the wall. At the top of the pediment was a half sphere, and mounted on it was a cross. Aside from decoration by columns, lintels, molding, and statues, the façade was further decorated by painting, traces of which still exist in protected spots where the erosion has been least.

The arched entrance was in bad condition, the sides and the greater part of the arch having fallen. This has been restored during the past year and is now the original size and is bearing its part of the weight of the wall above. The entrance was 6 feet wide and 9 feet, 6 inches high. This opening was originally closed by swinging doors about 10 feet high and 4 feet wide set just behind the arch. The doors were pivoted at the top in a wooden lintel sunk in the wall behind the top of the arch, and at the bottom excavation disclosed socket stones at each side, which probably carried wooden or metal sockets upon which the bottom pivots of the doors rested. These doors have been restored, using the same heavy construction and same heavy design as the original. The church room was about 17 feet wide and 89 feet 6 inches long in its inside measurements. It has three well-marked sections-the vestibule, the nave, and the sanctuary. Upon passing through the entrance the visitor is in the vestibule or space under the choir loft. The loft was supported on its east, south, and west sides by the walls of the church, and its front, or north side, was carried on an arch. The choir loft and arch

1 foot 5 inches on its longer or vertical axis. I think there may have been 14 of these medallions attached to the walls of the nave and vestibule. If this should prove to be the number, I should then think they were the stations of the cross used in the Catholic ritual. They are all broken away now, and so far only a few fragments of them have been recovered, not enough to show any painting or sculpture.

At a distance of 2 feet above the top of this medallion a corbel began which was 2 feet 4 inches high to its top and formed the base of a niche which was 5 feet 3 inches high. From the top of this niche it was 3 feet 4 inches to the neck molding.

Each wall of the nave was divided by one of these piers into two nearly equal sections. Nearly at the center line of each of the four sections thus formed, and just under the neck molding, was a window about 6 feet 6 inches high and 4 feet 6 inches wide. These four windows, with the choir-loft window over the entrance, admitted all the light the nave received during the day.

Under each of these four windows was a large altar, of which an elevation is given showing it as it was originally designed. Like the smaller altars of the piers, the base rose above the floor of the church 8 inches. This base was 6 feet 11 inches long and extended from the wall of the church 4 feet 10 inches. On this base rested the body of the altar, which was 5 feet 10 inches long, 2 feet high, and extended from the wall

FIG. 5.-Elevations of altar and pler, Tumacacori Mission, Tumacacori National

Monument.

2 feet 2 inches. This body was surmounted by a cornice of burned brick made in a special mold, which was about 14 inches high. Here, at a distance of 3 feet 10 inches above the floor of the church, was the top of the altar proper. Above this altar was a niche for a statue. This niche measures 2 feet 6 inches wide by 5 feet high and had a corbel attached to the wall at its bottom. Around this niche ran two decorative designs. The inner was in the form of attached columns, one on each side of the niche, bearing on their capitals an attached lintel. The outer decoration was a molding bearing a gable effect at its top, which reached to the opening of the window. This molding bore at each of its upper corners an extension somewhat in the form of a knob.

The idea of putting the windows just above each of these four large altars was not only to complete the symmetry of the wall sections, but also to have the light from the opposite window strike strongest on the statue in the niche and bring it out of the semidarkness of the nave.

Dividing the nave from the sanctuary, we have a beautiful arch, still in good condition, which supports the front of the dome over the sanctuary. This dome and the cupola which surmounts it are in excellent condition. Two rows of bricks have been left projecting from the dome forming steps up to the cupola. They were probably intended to be used when repairs were necessary to this part of the edifice.

The floor of the sanctuary was raised about 3 feet above the floor of the nave, and being an earth fill, the material was held by a circular wall springing from the piers which carried the sanctuary arch, the circle projecting about 2 feet at its greatest distance from a chord connecting the corners of the piers on that side nearest the nave. A series of steps, centrally located, led up from the floor of the nave to the floor of the sanctuary.

The whole back wall of the sanctuary was filled with the high altar and its subsidiary decorations and statues. The lighting here was by side windows placed higher in the walls than the windows of the nave, the sanctuary walls being several feet higher than the walls of the nave.

The pulpit was placed on the east side of the nave just in front of the pier which carried the sanctuary arch. It was entered from the sacristy by a series of steps leading up through the wall.

High up on the walls of the sanctuary the marks are still visible where twelve paintings have been glued to the walls. These were probably portraits of the twelve apostles. The dome over the sanctuary was decorated with painted conventional designs, and the four corbels springing from the corners and, supporting the dome, bore symbolic paintings.

An arched doorway leads through the east wall of the sanctuary into the sacristy. This was a fairly large room, about 17 by 20 feet inside. In addition to the door entering from the sanctuary, it had a window in the north wall, which looked into the cemetery, a door through the east wall, and the passage above mentioned in the west wall, by which the priest entered the pulpit. This room is covered by a barrel-vaulted roof supported midway by an arch which springs from the east and west walls. Poor designing is shown here in that both ends of this supporting arch spring from the walls directly over arched doorways. The walls of the sacristy seem not to have been decorated, and no evidence has so far been found of the location of the cupboards and closets where the robes and altar articles were stored.

The tower was designed to be three stories high. The first story was the baptistry, the second was probably a robing room for the use of the choir, and the third was the bell tower. Stairways were built in the walls.

The baptistry was a rather small room lighted only by the window on the south. It was roofed by a perfect little domed ceiling, nicely plastered but showing no decoration. In the east wall was a recess, probably closed by doors and used as a storage place for the robes and articles of baptism.

At the east end of the north wall was a low doorway, where one entered the stairway. The stairs rose a few steps to the north and turned upon a landing to the west in the north wall. They turned again in the northwest corner of the tower and reached a landing on the second floor near the center of the west side. Here a door opened westward into the choir loft and one opened eastward into the supposed robing room. This room was nearly the size of the baptistry on the first floor. No lighting was provided in the walls of this story except a V-shaped slit placed in the east wall and arranged with the apex of the V pointing outward. Local tales have it that this slit overlooks the mine across the river in the mountains where the fathers acquired their fabulous riches. After passing the two doors on the landing the stairs rose again, turning in the southwest corner of the tower end, in the middle of the south side, and came up to a landing on the third floor at the south arch of the bell tower.

The bell tower is constructed of burned brick used for an outer shell, backed or filled with a mixture of adobe or large bowlders. The bell arches are about 5 feet wide, 5 feet thick, and 10 feet high. The four faces of the tower were similar. Centrally located in each face was the great bell arch with its beam of mesquite wood near the top, from which the bell was hung. The face of this arch at the top projected several inches in the form of a molding made of specially cast bricks. Framing the arch at a distance of a foot or more ran another molding made of a different type of specially cast brick. At the outer angles of the tower another molding was carried up within an inch or two of the corner. Centrally located between the frame of the arch and the molding at the corner in the outer face of each pier of the bell tower was a niche for a statue. These niches had brick corbels built in at their base, and their tops are beautifully worked out in a shell design with a fine grade of plaster, the only finishing plaster on the whole bell tower. There were eight of these niches in the bell tower and four in the façade, making it a possibility that there was one for each of the statues of the 12 apostles. Undoubtedly the intention was to complete the bell tower with a cornice surmounted by a dome with a cross over all. Corbels for a dome show within the tower.

The outside of the building was plastered with an excellent grade of lime plaster which was burned in the vicinity. This plaster was laid on in two coats, and on the sides and back of the building the last coat was decorated with spots of broken slag and brick crushed to about the size of grains of corn. About half a handful of this material was embedded in the unhardened plaster at regular intervals, and the black and red coloring makes an interesting decoration on the white lime of the wall.

Drainage from the roof was handled by means of 14 down-spouts molded against the walls. These were not tubes, but were simply shallow valleys molded of lime against the wall and projecting an inch or two more at the bottom than at the top. This slight angle caused the water to follow the valley in its downward course instead of dropping clear or overrunning and wetting the wall. This same type of down spout was used at the San Xavier Mission, and one is surprised that, after being so successful on these buildings, the method has not come into general use among the architects and builders of the present day.

CEMETERY AND MORTUARY CHAMBER.

The cemetery lies just back of the church and is about 176 feet long and 61 feet wide. It was surrounded on the west, north, and part of the east sides by a wall about 2 feet thick and 8 feet high. Part of the east and the greater part of the south sides were taken up by buildings, the latter being the rear of the church.

The cemetery wall is in a fair state of preservation except a stretch of about 50 feet on the west side and 30 on the cast side, which had fallen and had to be rebuilt in the repair work of the last year. The wall was built of unburned adobe bricks, covered inside and outside with two coats of lime plaster. The outside was decorated with the fragments of slag and brick in the manner above described. The wall was capped with a row of unburned brick, which were intended to withstand the erosion. The inside of the wall

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