circle G, intersecting the point D. The diameter of G will be the size of the hexagon across the corners.

If the gland is a long one, it will be better to make it in halves, letting it part across two corners, as shown in Fig. 112. When a gland of this kind is made in halves, the corners at the parting are liable, from their weakness, to chip off, and it is therefore proper to make it of hard wood.

CHAPTER VI.

EXAMPLES OF T PIPE AND JOINT WORK.

OUR next example is what is called a T, a drawing for which is shown in Fig. 113. It is shown with flanges on the main body, and a hexagon on the branch. Sometimes a flange is employed instead of the hexagon, but this de

pends upon the connections to which it is to be attached. Patterns of this class are often made so that either round flanges or hexagonal connections may be put on at will; and it is in that style that we propose to make our example. It is apparent that the pattern will be the most easily molded with its body and branch both lying horizontally in the mold; so that, if we suppose the surface of this paper to represent the surface of the mold, the engraving shows just how the pattern will lie in it. It will be advisable, there fore, to make the pattern in halves.

We first prepare the body and flanges, in the same manner as described for the body of our gland; the only difference being that we have, in this case, to fit a flange on each end. The same method is pursued in making the branch, with the exception that we only require a core print on one end, the other end abutting against the body. The first question that arises is, How long shall we make the branch? and this depends upon how far the branch follows the curvature of the body. In our example, the branch and body are of the same diameter, and therefore the branch will follow exactly half way around the body. We turn up the branch piece, then, to its requisite diameter, and make its length equal to the diameter to which it should stand out from the body, added to half the diameter of the body. The pieces we have made, then, are those shown in Fig. 114, in which A represents the piece for the body, and B, the piece for the branch. Our next proceeding is to cut

out the abutting end of the branch to fit to the curvature of the body, and this we perform as follows: We first set the bevel square to an angle of 450, by the process shown in Fig. 109, and then, taking the branch halves apart, and

placing the bevel square with its back across the end face of the branch (the blade lying on the joint face of the half branch), we mark the two lines, A B, in Fig. 115, which must meet exactly in the center Fig.116.

of the branch and at the extreme

Fig.115. end, as shown in Fig. 116. We

then pare off the angular piece,

C D, down to the lines, A B. If, before we do the paring, however, we give our half branch a quarter turn around, it will appear as shown in Fig. 116; the curve

formed by the intersection of the plane surface (just made) with the round surface of the piece, is the true curve of the body of the T.

Turning to the other half of the branch, we perform upon it the same operation; and we may then cut away with the gouge the intervening timber from between the curve lines. Our two halves will be of the proper curve at the end, to fit exactly to the body of the T, as shown in Fig. 117, in

which A represents a sectional view of the body of the T, and B C are the two halves of the branch; while the view D shows the body of the T lying horizontally, with the branch attached.

We have now to fasten the branch to the body of the T; and here we must pause to consider whether the pattern is required to serve simply for the production of a few castings; whether it is to be cast aside after the first casting, never to be used again (which is often the case), or whether it is intended for standard or continuous use. For a temporary purpose, a few screws will be sufficient; but for a permanent pattern, a much stronger joint may be made as follows: Brush with hot glue the ends of the branch piece, and let them stand until the glue has been absorbed into the pores of the wood. This is called sizing, and is always necessary in gluing end wood, as it is called-meaning the end grain of wood. The reason that sizing is in that case necessary is, that the pores of the wood all meet the surface in the end grain, and the sizing is necessary to fill them. We then take a truly planed piece of board, and lay one half of the body down upon it, placing a piece of thin paper between the body and the board, so that any glue that may run out may not touch the board: otherwise it may glue the work so fast to the board that, in parting them, some of the fibers of the wood may get torn out. Then we fasten temporarily the half body to the board, and lay one half of the branch with its flat surface on the same board, and glue it to its place, drawing it well up to the body piece with dogs or clamps, at the same time observing that it is

Fig.118.

close down to the board, and fixing it temporarily there, as shown in Fig. 118, and allowing it to remain until the glue