pieces side by side, with the planed edges touching and the ends fair, as shown in Fig. 105, the line, G, representing the edges; and make two fine notches at A B. Then separate the pieces, and square the very fine lines, C C, D D,

Fig.105.

across with a knife. Then set a gage to half the width of the pieces, and mark the intersecting lines, E F; and the centers for the respective pin holes will be the intersection of the lines, C E and D F. If, however, we have no planed edge to work from, and the job is of such size as to involve so much labor as not to admit of planing, we may take two small brads or finishing nails (or as many as we desire to have pins), and drive them almost entirely into one piece of the wood, in the spots where the pins are ultimately to be, and then file the projecting part of each to a point. By then resting the other half in its proper relative position upon the filed points, and, when adjusted, applying a little pressure to it, the nail points will enter the top piece and mark the corresponding centers for the holes to receive the pins. We may then extract the brads or nails, and proceed to bore the holes and insert the pins.

Another method of marking the pin holes, is to provide some ordinary lead shot, and make shallow holes with a brad-awl, slightly less in diameter than the shot. Where

pins are to be inserted, place the shot in the hole, so that they project beyond the surface, and then proceed as described for the brad points-the latter being the more expeditious method of the two.

Our second example, Fig. 106, is a design for another kind of gland, such as is often fitted to glands for pump rods and spindles. For the small sizes, the glands are usually cast solid, and the hole is drilled out in the lathe;

Fig.106.

in which case, providing the gland is not very deep, it would be molded vertically, with the head in the nowel, and would be turned out of the solid piece of wood in the style of our previous example, treating for the moment the hexagonal part as a flange, whose diameter must be turned to the size of the hexagon across the corners. After the turning is done, we mark the hexagon as follows. We set a pair of compasses as nearly as possible to the radius of the turned piece that is to form the hexagon, and divide that piece off into six divisions, in the manner shown in Fig. 107-for the radius of a circle will divide its circumference into six equal parts-so that, if the compasses are correctly set, one trial will be sufficient; but if not, we must readjust the compasses, and go around again. Then, from these points, we square lines, as shown in Fig. 107, at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; and then, with the paring chisel, we pare off the

sides to the lines. It is not necessary to actually draw the hexagon on the circumference, by joining the lines of division on the top

of the flange; for a straight edge being applied as the paring proceeds, will be all that is necessary to produce a true hexagon. Nevertheless it is possible

Fig.107.

that error may have crept in, though we have performed the above operation with the greatest of care; it is therefore imperative upon us to apply correcting tests to our work, such as a pair of calipers, to try if each pair of the opposite sides are parallel; also the bevel, to verify if each angle of the figure contains 120°. Hexagon shapes are so common that a special hexagon gage is very useful; and such a gage, of the most approved form, is shown in Fig.

Fig.108.

A

F

108, together with its method of application, the edges, A B, being to try the hexagon, and C D to square the edge to

the face, and the edge, F, being used as a straight edge. If, however, we have not such a gage, we may set the bevel square, shown in Fig. 23, in the following manner: Take a piece of board, planed on one side and on one edge, and let A B, in Fig. 109, represent the planed edge, from which we mark with the gage the line, C D. Then taking any point, such as I, in the line C D, as a center, at a convenient distance, we describe with a pair of compasses the arc, F G. We then take the compasses, and, without shifting their points at all, we rest one point on the intersection of the lines, C D and F G, and then mark the arc, H. If then we draw a line from the intersection of the arc, F G, and the arc, H, to the center, I, upon which the arc, F G, has struck, the lines, H I, I C, form the angle required; and we may apply the stock of the bevel square to the planed edge, A B, and set the blade to the line, I H, as denoted by the dotted lines. The bevel being set, we test the work as it proceeds, first cutting down one hexagonal side, and then applying the bevel to gage the angle of the others; and as the diametrically opposite sides are finished, we apply the calipers. The lines of division upon all good pattern work are made very fine, in fact, merely distinguishable; and the instrument by

which they are

B

Fig.109

G

D

drawn is shown in Fig. 110. It is called a cutting scriber, and the end at A is beveled off at both sides, like a skew

chisel, forming a knife edge. The end, B, is ground to a point, and both ends are finished on an oilstone. The point end is for drawing lines along the grain, while the cutting edge, A, is for drawing lines across the grain of the wood. The wooden handle in the center is to enable the operator

Fig.110.

B

to hold it more firmly. It sometimes happens that the size of the hexagon is given across the flat sides instead of over the angle; and when that is so, we proceed as follows: We describe upon a piece of board, as in Fig. 111, a circle of a diameter equal to the given distance between the flat sides. We then take a hexagon gage, or else set the bevel square to an angle of 1200; and applying it to the planed edge of the board, we draw the line, C D, in Fig. 111, in which figure A is the circle of the size of the flat sides of

the hexagon, and B E are the planed edges of the board. We next reverse the bevel; and from the opposite edge of the board we strike the line, F D, cutting C D at the point D, where both the lines cut the circumference of the circle, A. Then from the center of the circle A, we draw the