We had not yet reached our favoured bark, which we already looked upon as our future Ark of safety and rest upon the wild waves. We were still ashore at Falmouth, but expectation was afloat. It was dark as we stepped off the pier into the steam launch of our yacht, and left the fair shores of Albion to visit foreign climes. Silence was ordered as we passed over the deep waters of the bay, so that the sailor at the prow might listen, and discover whether anything was in our way, or coming against us. The "Red Rose" was anchored two miles away, and when at length we saw it indistinctly standing out in dark stateliness, it appeared a very castle of strength upon the sea; and, with its fine lines, as much entitled to be called the queen of yachts as the rose to be called the queen of flowers. Youth is the time for elation of spirits, for desire for new sights, and new enterprises, and for the enjoyment of all that pleases the fancy and captivates the mind. In early life we enjoy hearing fairy tales, and reading of fairy scenes, and of the magic power that brings at the bidding of the talisman all that is desired. It is true that some of those who were to sail in the "Red Rose" were a little passed the early exuberance of youth, yet were they none the less able to appreciate the appropriate, nor did they object to escape from the dark night by which they were surrounded, and to be transported as by a step into a fairy scene. They climbed the walls of their sea castle and quickly descended into the interior which struck them all the more forcibly from the darkness as a fairy palace. They found in it sumptuous apartments glistening with the soft genial glow of crystal lamps with mirrors reflecting their brilliancy, and increasing their effect. The whole being furnished with regal splendour, and supplied with everything necessary for a sea voyage. It was evident the whole vessel had been designed and completed at the will and command of one who had decided that nothing money could purchase, or skill accomplish, should be wanting THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. to make the vessel as near perfection as possible, by one, in fact, who might well claim to be a master or commander of the Royal Yacht Squadron of the first naval power in Europe or the world. Although all the members of the party were those of the sterner sex there were not wanting indications that provision had been made for those whose presence is the delight of mankind. A chamber from which once, at any rate, their fair forms were not absent, was visible, in which, when they came, sweet music also resounded, lending additional enchantment to the scene. There is still one thing wanting, thought one Knight errant of the party, to our perfect enchantment in this not terrestrial, but fairy-like, yet nautical scene, and that is the presence of some of these dear creatures, the solace and delight of our sex, but the passing thought gave way to the proud haughtiness of the warrior. Are the days of Don Quixote indeed gone and for ever? Am I not going to stride the sea, to trample the waves under my feet? to visit the very country of Cervantes? a genuine son of that true Great Britain whose seal and motto should be Neptune's trident. Britons never will be slaves! no not even to Neptune himself. What after all is this fairy scene to a tried warrior like myself seeking fresh laurels ! who has crossed the waves so many times, always to conquer ! passing head erect over the wild waters as froth between his feet. Let us pity the sorrows of the poor landsmen, who as miserable sailors go afloat, who While, Neptune-like, we gambol o'er the tide- Until at length completely put to rout, How ignoble and impotent they are! I scorn such needless obeisance to Neptune's powers. So said our gallant knight, who threw his glove down to Neptune, determined to conquer and to win. Slumber overtook all our senses, and those of our gallant knight also, who woke up early next morning to a conflict with the great power he had despised. Where is the knight that dared to call my supremacy in question? Neptune seemed to say, as he tossed our proud vessel like a cork upon the deep. At the call our knight obeyed, and was the first to fall in the fray with the great watery powers of nature. This was on Sunday Morning, April 11th. We left Falmouth Harbour at 5 a.m., and watched the coast-line receding as we steamed out into the channel. A strong east wind was blowing, and this, with a strong tide, caused a very boisterous, chopping sea. Disagreeable as crossing the Channel is at times, Mr. Lancaster (whom we styled our Admiral,) said afterwards that he never remembered it more so than to-day. After we had been tossed four hours, our thoughtful Admiral ordered the steward to bring each of us a cup of tea; and, in another four hours, lunch, to each of us a chop; when mine came, a chop of the sea sent the knife and fork flying away. Anyone who has not tried it would scarcely credit how difficult we found it to chop our chops, while the waves were so chopping outside the chops of the Channel. In the afternoon, passing Ushant, we entered the Bay of Biscay, and the sea was much less rough. Monday, April 12th.-To-day is fine; the sun is shining and the weather improving, and (this afternoon) the sea is becoming comparatively calm, so that we shall be able to anchor to-night outside the bar, near the port of Portugalette, where the river Nervion discharges its waters into the Bay of Biscay, instead of steaming slowly about all night as the Captain had otherwise intended; for, owing to the low tides, there is not water enough for us to cross the bar and anchor in the river, as our Admiral did when I was with him in 1873, when we had the advantage of spring tides. It is quite dark as we arrive opposite Portugalette, and let go the anchor at II p.m. Tuesday, April 13th. This morning, upon going on deck, we see that we are anchored about two miles from the shore. The sun shines brightly, setting off the landscape before us PORTUGALETTE. 9 to the best advantage; just opposite we see the small town of Portugalette. The appearance of the country and hills remind us of Wales. In the far distance, towering above the hills to the south-east, we see mountains that are outlying spurs of the Pyrenees with their summits covered with snow. As our Admiral had decided for us to leave to-night or early to-morrow for Ferrol we had breakfast at 7-15, and left the yacht at 8 o'clock, as we were anxious to have as long a day as possible on shore to see the iron ore district of Somorrostro, and the town of Bilbao. There was greater difficulty in rowing ashore in the boat's gig than our Admiral and Captain had expected. The tide and force of the currents at the mouth of the river Nervion were against us, as well as a strong breeze; and when with difficulty we crossed the bar our sailors found it no easy work to row us to the quay, which was still some distance off. For some time we seemed to make no progress, but at length it became more visible, and we drew alongside the quay, when our Admiral told us to land, which we accordingly did in sight of the crowd who had been watching our gradual approach. We thought that the authorities would be pleased to see us, and were surprised by the questions "What right have you to land"? "Where is your bill of health"? We thought our own appearance and good looks a sufficient answer. "To-day," said the officials, "we will visit your ship, and to-morrow you may come on shore." "Everything comes to him who can wait," but the old saying is "To-morrow never comes," and owing to our vessel's uncertain position outside the bar it was not likely to come to us here. We knew if the wind changed and the sea became rough it would be necessary to steam away at once, which made our Admiral desirous to leave for Ferrol this evening. He pointed out to them that as we had brought proper papers from England, and were not going to bring any other vessel inside the bar than the boat we came to the pier in, they must accept the boat as our ship. After an hour or two's delay, and after repeated threats to telegraph to Madrid if refused, the Health Officer at last agreed to grant us "pratique," which is liberty to land. We called on Mr. East at his office at the terminus of the railway made for bringing down iron ore, from the Somorrostro and Galdanus district for shipment to England, and elsewhere. He kindly put their saloon carriage at our disposal, and accompanied us to the mines about ten to twelve miles distant. The railway is 4-ft. guage, and its course zig-zag along the sides of the hills. At one of the mines we visited we found bullock carts still in use, as in 1873. They are of the most primitive construction, exactly like those used by the Romans 2,000 years ago. Each cart carries 21⁄2 tons of ore, and has a pole fixed to it, at the end of which is a cross bar to which the horns of two bullocks are fastened. We noticed as they descended the precipitous hill sides, the weight, at times, bore very heavily upon them, and, as they passed over the ruts of the badly worn tracks, jarred and shook their heads exceedingly. Altogether it seemed a barbarous and needlessly expensive way of conveying the ore. At the same time we were pleased to see that the animals if hardly worked were well cared for. We were told that a man, for a pair of bullocks and himself, earned from 4s.6d. to 5s. a day, which seemed a moderate remuneration. The miners appeared an industrious and contented set of people. At several of the mines we noticed women at work, and the manager said that they worked quite as well as the men according to the wages they received. We found it was expected that the iron mines at Bilbao and neighbourhood would raise and export during the present year more than two million tons of ore. Out of the price paid for it at least 5s. a ton must be received by the miners, mine owners, local railway companies, and others locally engaged in the business, making £500,000 a year or more circulating there in connection with this industry. Fully two-thirds, if not threefourths, of the trade is due to British enterprise and capital, |