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62

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

candles blazing round one image. Some who read this will ask, "What is the religious state of Spain and Portugal?" If I attempted at any length to reply, my readers would throw down the Journal, and say they would not read anything so dark and dismal. The words of our Admiral yesterday, as to the previous night, describe it. Spain and Portugal, since the first auto-de-fé was lighted, have had a wild, dark night. On that occasion Gonsalez, the most celebrated preacher in Andalusia, was burned to death at Seville for his religious opinions, with two of his sisters and eighteen more-four of them being monks, and five ladies of the highest class. A sister of one of the latter was arrested on a suspicion of heresy, and put into the rack, which was applied with such violence that I omit the

rest; suffice it to say that she was carried back to her cell insensible, where she shortly afterwards expired. If this was only an isolated case of religious cruelty I would not record it; but not only was the Inquisition kept in operation, and the raid of the priests upon the laity continued for three centuries, but some would even now re-establish it if they could. Any who wish to know what kind of tortures were inflicted can do so by going to Madrid, when they must get an order to see the pictures in the National Gallery, by Velazquez* and other eminent painters. They were evidently painted from life, and the sufferers are represented just as the painters saw them, undergoing the most frightful, excruciating tortures and agonies that can be imagined. The remembrance of the grievous wrongs thus perpetrated upon them in the name of religion, has sunk deep into the hearts of the Spanish and Portuguese people. They may forgive, but they do not forget. It used to be the plan to surround any selected house at dead of night. Neither rank, wealth, age, nor sex was any security; and, when taken, without trial, tortures were applied to extort confessions, and obtain information those possessing money being particularly

*

Velazquez was born at Seville in 1599, and died at Madrid, 1660.

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

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liable to be thus arrested; and if, in the exercise of the most extreme clemency, further tortures or imprisonment were dispensed with, it was the invariable rule to confiscate all the property of the unfortunate to the Church, before he was turned out penniless into the world, branded as a heretic, when, if anyone said a word, he ran the risk of being the next arrested. Can it be wondered at then that the men of Spain and Portugal stand entirely aloof from the Church, and are sceptical of anything the priests may say or do? They have not, hitherto, been allowed to enjoy much liberty of any kind, but brighter days may be dawning. The late Mr. Joseph Pease thought it would be of service to them if their leading men would study "Dymond's Essays on the Principles of Morality, and on the Private and Political Rights and Obligations of Mankind." He accordingly, at considerable expense, had them translated into Spanish, and handsomely bound, and copies presented to the King and every Member of the Cortes, and others in authority, and also to the principal public libraries.*

* The following is from La Correspondencia de Espana :— THE SPANISH GOVERNMENT AND MR. JOSEPH PEASE.

"It appears that the Home Ministry has promoted to the Grand Cross of Charles III. the distinguished gentleman, Mr. Joseph Pease, late member of the Parliament of England, who has lately presented to Spain a considerable number of copies of the very important work on the principles of morality by the celebrated moralist, Jonathan Dymond. The whole expense of the translation, printing, and publishing this work in Spanish has been borne by Joseph Pease. Presentation copies have been sent to the King, all the great officers of State, and the most distinguished professors in the Universities, from all of whom the most polite and appreciative acknowledgments have been received. This work has long been a standard book in England and the United States, not only among the Society of Friends, with whose members it obtains special acceptance, but also with all who undertake to acquaint themselves with the various distinctive schools of Christian thought and culture. The work in question controverts the different theories of the schools of moral philosophy, and shows that true morality must be based on the revealed will of God, ascertained in the Scriptures, and it applies these same principles to the civil, legislative, and governmental duties. The rank of Grand Cross of Charles III. is one of a distinguished character in Spain, and has been conferred on the most exalted statesmen and warriors of that country. It confers the title of 'Excellency.'"

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He did it not looking for anything in return, but the Spanish Government conferred upon him the Spanish title of rank, which reached him a short time before his death; and when Mr. Henry Pease visited Madrid last month, his arrival was noticed in the papers as the brother of the late Mr. Pease, "who had always manifested such a deep interest in the Spanish nation."

"

Friday, 7 May. We have breakfasted early in order to visit Seteubal, a small but very prettily-situated town in the Bay of Seteubal or St. Ubes, about twenty miles south-east of Lisbon. The sky is cloudless, but a gale is still blowing from the north, so that we take this excursion instead of starting again, as we intended. The Tagus widens out into a bay above the city, and the high wind makes the river very rough. The railway authorities treated us most courteously, and, at a moderate charge, allowed us to have a special train. A handsome saloon carriage was provided, and we were soon travelling across a delightful country. Both sides of the line were carpeted with a pathway of flowering cactuses-tens of thousands of flowers, blue, yellow, and white, beautiful in the bright sunlight; such a sight we had never seen before. We said to Mr. Markham, "How it would have delighted your father-in-law," Sir Joseph Paxton. We asked how they came to be planted, and were told that they planted themselves, and ran along the ground, which reminded me of Longfellow's lines—

"In all places, then, and in all seasons,

Flowers expand their light and soul-like wings,
Teaching us by most persuasive reasons

How akin they are to human things."

* I learn this from my sister, Mrs. Henry Pease, who happens to be with me as the Journal is being printed. They visited the south of Spain, and the Alhambra, and Cordova just before we did, and while we brought home photographs, she made water colour sketches, which, if well done, make a very nice memento of a foreign tour, as in these you have the colouring which is wanting in the former. The south of Spain is as yet comparatively unvisited by tourists, but the railway and hotel proprietors might annually reap from them a considerable harvest if better arrangements were made to invite their presence and suit their convenience.

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It was a charming day, and a most pleasant excursion; and one which every visitor to Lisbon should make.

FERROL-Tuesday, 11 May. The wind at Lisbon increased in violence, and during Friday night dragged our anchor, which made quite a commotion on deck, and the sails had to be set to regain our position. It was too stormy to leave for home till Sunday morning, and we are again weatherbound in Ferrol harbour.

COWES-Friday night, 14 May. We left Ferrol yesterday morning at 7 a.m., with a fair wind. Towards mid-day the engines were stopped, and we sailed for a short time, wafted along by the gentle breeze, enjoying the beauty of the cloudless summer morning, and the perfect calm and stillness of all around. We had splendid weather until we reached the English Channel; and now have arrived at Cowes (and old England) with the same sensations of pleasure that thousands of other travellers have felt, after a long absence either by land or sea. Although it is only five weeks since we left, it seems longer; we have seen and heard so much.

The distance we have travelled since leaving Falmouth, is rather more than five thousand miles.

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Our acknowledgements are due to the kind

assistance rendered us in our tour by several gentlemen, especially by MR. DUNCAN SHAW, of Cordova, and his son, MR. WM. SHAW; MR. EAST, of Portugalette; MESSRS. OAKLEY, HOOD, and other gentlemen of influence at Lisbon; MESSRS. PECKETT, ENTOVEN, and TAYLOR, at Malaga, Carbonares, &c.

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