and light arches still standing, prove conclusively, by their vertical and perfect condition, that the lateral oscillations of the ground could not have been great in this part of the city. The smaller roof over the chapel arched with brick, we found little, if at all, injured by the earthquake.

It is estimated that about 30,000 people perished, and that the loss of property amounted to twenty millions sterling, yet the calamity has resulted in Lisbon now being a much finer city than it otherwise would have been.

Wednesday, April 21st.-We left Lisbon last evening, the pilot taking us ten miles out of our course for his own convenience. After setting him down near to the mouth of the Tagus we steered southwards. We had favourable weather, and this morning watched for a long time Cape St. Vincent as we first approached, then passed, and finally left it far behind us, until it disappeared out of sight, our Admiral giving us particulars of various naval engagements that occurred off these coasts. He decided that a vote should be taken whether we should land at Huelva and proceed to Seville by the new railway, which was said to be open for traffic, or land at Cadiz and go by the old railway. As the Huelva railway is not mentioned in this month's Bradshaw's Continental Guide, some of our party doubt whether it is really open, and upon the vote being taken, as only two are in favour of Huelva, we proceed to Cadiz. We see the port of Huelva in the distance, as we pass it. It is not without historical interest, as it was from here on Friday, the 3rd of August, 1492, Columbus started on his memorable voyage to discover America. His fleet consisted of three vessels, the one he commanded was the Santa Maria, and had a deck, but was less than 100 tons burthen, the other two were still smaller, of the class called "Caravels," high at prow and stern, with forecastles and cabins for the crew, but without any decks. It was no wonder that sailing continually away from Spain in such little vessels, the crews, consisting in all of 120 persons, should at length get alarmed, not knowing

where they were going to, especially as they found the wind in the seas they had come to always blew from the east, and they could thus, as they thought, never return to Spain. At last they began to speak of making away with the Admiral and returning home. The voyage had lasted seventy days, when happily before any open mutiny had occurred, the New World was discovered, on Friday, the 12th of October, 1492.

Wednesday Evening.-It is moonlight as we enter the harbour of Cadiz. At first we cannot see anything distinctly, but by degrees the town becomes visible; until, as we come still nearer and the anchor is let go, the white buildings, domes and towers of Cadiz, rising out of the dark waters of the bay,-lit up by the silvery light of the full moon, which in this clear atmosphere seems almost to turn night into day,-presents a striking appearance; the lights of the town meanwhile sparkle and glisten like so many jewels upon this ancient mistress of the sea.

Thursday, April 22nd.-As sunlight is superior to moonlight, so the appearance of Cadiz, as we look upon it this morning, seems correspondingly improved. If last night it looked perfectly unique, this morning it is still more striking. It is true that "distance sometimes lends enchantment to the view," and a beauty decked out at night with jewels may appear then to the best advantage. But here "fair Cadiz " appears nearer to us, and yet more striking and attractive than even on the preceding night. It appears to be a city of the purest white marble. All is of dazzling whiteness, the grand dome of the Cathedral towering above the other towers, minarets and buildings, which in their irregular outline look most picturesque. It is one of the advantages of a yachting expedition, that you have excellent sea views of the places you visit in addition to the personal inspection you can make as you please and at your leisure.

This is especially the case this morning. What a picture for a painter! The bay of richest, yet softest, silkiest and

deepest sea-blue, with boats with lateen sails sailing silently to and fro, the white marble-looking city beyond rising from its massive piers with its spires and minarets. To the left are ships at anchor, and others alongside the quay; while behind, as a background, is the green and brown of the isthmus connecting Cadiz with the main land. On the right the public gardens, with tall feathery-looking pines and orange and other flowering trees, give a pleasant green tinge; while further to the right, beyond the sea-wall, stretching out into the bay between the bay and sea, are rocks over which the blue Atlantic gently breaks, making white-crested waves and surf; above all is the azure blue of a perfect cloudless summer sky.

If anyone should think the Darwinian theory of the development of species to be correct, he will be satisfied it does not apply to man, if he will visit Cadiz. It claims to be the oldest city in Europe, and was known to the Phoenician merchants long before Rome or Carthage were thought of. Surrounded by the sea, with the exception of the strip of land connecting it with the rest of Spain, it has stood a city by itself, and to some extent mistress of itself. Knowledge is cumulative if, therefore, each generation had taken full advantage of their privileges, and transmitted an increased amount of knowledge and wisdom to the generation following, what enlightenment and concentration of wisdom should there not be here! Surely by this time the women ought to be angels and the men divine. They certainly did not appear to us to be so. But before narrating our own experience, let us read from a book we have in our small library on board, an account of a bull-fight at Cadiz,-it is entitled, "Among the Spanish People," by the Rev. H. J. Rose.* He writes: "It was the Feast of Corpus Christi, (Sunday, 11th April, 1875), the streets of Cadiz were strewed with bouquets and aromatic herbs; gay banners hung from every

*

"Among the Spanish People," by the Rev. H. J. Rose, English Chaplain of Jerez and Cadiz. In 2 vols. R. Bentley and Sons, 1877.

balcony; the stirring sounds of brass bands filled the air, and slowly filing afterwards was seen the Procession of the Host. The Spanish people go to a religious ceremony as to a show-not to join in, but to gaze upon it; and this one in point of colour, glitter, pageantry and talk far exceeded anything to be seen on an English 'Derby Day.'"

The religious processions and ceremonies being over, Mr. Rose says he was "among four to six thousand others, seated in the Plaza de Toros, awaiting that degrading spectacle without which no Spanish religious (?) festival is completethe bull-fight.

"The bull-fight of Corpus-Christi Day was a failure, so far as the quality of the bulls went; and, as the third 'cowardly' bull turned tail upon his attackers, it was a strange sight indeed to see four thousand handkerchiefs waved madly in the air, and to hear from four or five thousand voices (and women's voices, alas! predominated) the furious demand, 'Fuego! Fuego!' i.e. Fire!'

"This is a demand for explosive darts, instead of the common darts, to be stuck into the wretched animal's flanks, when the common barbed darts fail to rouse him to fury.

"The president of the bull-ring, evidently a humane man, tried to turn a deaf ear to this demand, but all to no purpose. The five darts, one for each flank, were brought, and stuck into the wretched animal's hide. In a moment, one exploded with a crack, a burst of flame, and a stench of burnt hide and a cloud of sulphurous smoke-then the other-then the first again; until the scorched, bleeding, blundering animal charged madly across and across the ring, in his excruciating agony.

"At seven, the sixth bull had fallen a victim; and, thanks to the humanity of the president, or rather alcalde, only three horses had been killed in the ring, that gentleman invariably giving the signal, 'Take it out, and shoot it,' whenever a horse was badly gored."

D

We were told the priests sanctioned the bull-fights by occasionally attending and blessing the proceedings.

Cadiz Railway Station, 3 p.m.-It is supposed we shall start in about twenty minutes for Seville, but the exact time is uncertain. While waiting, let us record as briefly as possible what has taken place this morning.-The difficulty made to our landing would hardly be credited by anyone unacquainted with quarantine arrangements. The health officer came at 6 a.m., and enquired whether we were all well; and being answered in the affirmative, took our bill of health away with him, and promised to return after visiting another vessel. The Captain asked him to be not later than half-past eight, as we wanted to go on shore early. He replied it was for him to decide when he should come again. Soon after nine we were ready, but waited till after ten, when, as he did not come, our Admiral decided we must seek him. After rowing about half way to the quay, we saw him in his boat, his men rowing away from us, and then landing at the quay. As soon as we got there, a message was sent to him that we should be much obliged if he would come at once, as we wanted to land. The message sent in reply was, "he was at breakfast, and that we must go back to our vessel." Our Admiral sent for the British consul, but he was out of town; so more urgent messages were sent to the health officer, and the agent of "Lloyds," who also was yacht agent, did his best to talk him round, but he was inexorable; neither would he come and speak to us. We must go back to our ship, that was a sine quâ non. Our Admiral considered the health officer quite wrong, as in taking our bill of health he had practically given us "pratique," and urged that a landing should be allowed us. Further messages were sent, but the landing was not conceded, all was of no avail, while we were kept nearly two hours in the broiling sun in our open boat, the ragged population on the quay being amused in watching our plight in being forbidden to land. One of them was selling water, crying out “agua,