"As we neared the land, how eagerly I sought to catch every view that was within sight. My eyes wandered far back to the most distant mountain; then I brought them quickly to those which seemed about to shake hands with me, piercing into their nooks and their time-worn rocks, now up to their pinnacles, now down to their broad massive bases. I was happy.

"We saw the little Danish flag on the hill that stands as sentinel to the rock-ribbed bay. We passed on; the western ridge, that runs far out into the sea, stole away the winds which were so gracefully carrying us to our chosen port, yet enough favored us to go slowly. Soon Holsteinborg, in all its imperial greatness, met our eye. 'Tis true, Holsteinborg was not gaudily attired, as some kings' palaces are; but there she was and is, sparkling in diamonds of pure water, radiating rainbows in continual sunlight. There she was and is, surrounded by walls more ancient than Jerusalem, or Thebes, or Babel's Tower—of God's creationmountains that seem to prop up this arctic sky—mountains whose southern sides are now clothed in green and laughing flowers, and whose northern slopes rest beneath a bed of white.

"As we entered the harbor, our national colors, streamer, and ship's flag were raised, and the Governor of Holsteinborg responded by hoisting the Danish ensign. Then, at 10 A.M. of this day, the 7th of July, 1860, and the fortieth day from the port of New London, United States, we came to an anchor. Had it not been for head winds and calms, we might have made the passage in twenty-five to thirty days. Captain B has made it in thirty-four; he says it generally takes about thirty. As it is, we have reason to thank God for His care and protection over us in this voyage. Oh, may He continue His blessing; may He be near unto me while in the prosecution of the great work before me! With thee, 0 God, I can accomplish much; without thee, what am I?—nothing! nothing!!"

The Rescue schooner—our consort and tender—had not arrived. Her orders were to keep with us if possible; but on the night of Thursday, 31st, the third day out, during the prevailing fogs and wind, we lost her. The rendezvous, however, was at this place, and we daily expected to see her.

VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.

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CHAPTER II.

Land and Visit the Governor.—Brief History of Greenland.—The Holsteinborg District.—Esquimaux and European Population.—Protection and Care of the Natives by the Danish Crown.—Plagues of Greenland.—Musquitoes.—Trade and Barter.—A Yankee outwitted by an Esquimaux.—Dinner at the Governor's.— M'Clintock's Work.—The Priest's Wife.—Visit the Government Buildings.—Arrival of the Rescue.—Lars's Care for his Family.—Dance on Shore.—A Mountain Excursion.—Rocks crumbling to pieces.—Action of Freezing Water in Crevices. —Sundays' and Esquimaux Amusements.—Greenland Festival.— Schools and Printing. Dr. Rink.

Immediately after we had dropped anchor, great excitement reigned on board. Some of us at once prepared for the shore, dressed in accordance with our home fashion of forty days ago, the captain and I intending to visit the governor. On landing, my heart leaped with joy as I touched the firm earth, and I could not help taking in my hands some of the rocky fragments on the beach and say, "Thank God, I am at last on arctic land, where I have so long wished to be! Greenland's mountains, I greet you!"

As Captain Budington had met the governor before, my introduction to him was easy. It was in the afternoon when our visit took place, and Governor Elberg received us with much kindly warmth. But the events that occurred during our stay were so various, and have been so minutely narrated in my private diary day by day, that I must try and introduce them as much together as I possibly can, first giving a brief sketch of what relates to Holsteinborg and its vicinity.

The early history of Greenland is generally well known, yet a brief resumè of it may not be uninteresting to the reader. In many respects it borders upon romance, as indeed all the old Scandinavian chronicles do, but well-attested facts state nearly as follows:

About the middle of the tenth century, one Gunbiörn, an inhabitant of the previously-settled Iceland, discovered land to the west, and, on returning, made a report of what he had seen. Soon afterward, in the year 983, a person known as "Eric the Red" was sentenced by the Icelanders to banishment for the crime of

D

manslaughter, and he determined to visit the country Gunbiörn had discovered. Sailing westward in a small vessel, he arrived at the new land, and coasted it toward the south; then turning a point now known as Cape Farewell, he came to an island, where he passed his first winter. He then remained three years exploring the coasts, and finally returned to Iceland, where he gave such a report of "Greenland," as he termed the new country, that it induced many of the colonists of both sexes to go back with him. Only some of these reached their destination, the rest turning back or perishing by the way. A colony was now formed, and communication kept up with Iceland, and even with Norway. Leif, the son of Eric, went to the latter place, and, by command of the king, was instructed in the Christian religion, whence he was afterward sent back, attended by a priest, who baptized Eric and all his followers.

In the year 1001, one of the colonists, named Bjorn, was acci dentally driven in his ship to the southwest of Greenland, and discovered a new country covered with wood. On his return, Leif fitted out a vessel, and, with Bjorn as pilot, went in search of this new land. He found it to be as described, and termed it Vinland, which there can be no doubt must have been part of North America, about the latitude of 45°.

Meanwhile the colonists of Greenland increased in number and prosperity. In 1121 Arnold was elected the first bishop, and several churches were built. After this no less than seventeen bishops are known to have been elected from first to last, and the two settlements of East and West Greenland (into which the colonists had divided) numbered about three hundred villages. They had their little barques going from place to place along the western coast so high up as lat. 73°, and even, as is supposed from ancient records and from Runic inscriptions seen there, to the entrance of the present-named Wellington Channel.

For a long time after this the history of these colonists is involved in obscurity. Intercourse with Europe was obstructed about the beginning of the fifteenth century, and whether the colonists were cut off by hordes of the Esquimaux from the north or west, or were destroyed by a pestilence, is yet uncertain. There is, however, a document extant, discovered by Professor Mallet in the papal archives, which seems to warrant the idea of a hostile fleet "of wild heathen" having made a descent upon the colony, fell upon the people, "laid waste the country and its holy

THE HOLSTEINBORG DISTRICT.

51

buildings with fire and sword, sparing nothing but the small parishes, and carrying captive the wretched inhabitants of both sexes." Nothing, however, has been certainly known of their fate. Only ruins of their churches and convents now remain.

At length, in 1576, Martin Frobisher visited Friesland, now known to be Greenland, on his voyage of discovery to the northwest, but brought to light no particulars concerning the original colonists. Afterward, in 1605, James Hall, an Englishman, under Admiral Lindenow, was sent by Denmark to rediscover them if possible. He succeeded in landing upon the west coast, and communicated with the natives, though nothing more resulted from his visit. Other voyagers touched upon its shores; but not until 1721, when that brave, and good, and truly Christian man, Hans Egede, conceived the project of himself going to Greenland, to spread religion among its natives, was any thing permanently ef fected. Then Greenland soon came into notice, and, at various times, colonies and missionary establishments, under the Danish flag, were formed along its coasts. At present there are thirteen settlements, besides commercial and missionary stations. The most northern official settlement is Upernavik, in lat. 73° N., but there is a fishing establishment, called Tessuisak, some few miles still farther on. Holsteinborg is in lat. 66° 56' N., long. 53° 42' W. This latter place was, according to Crantz, the fifth colony begun in Greenland, and first settled in the year 1759. It is one of the most convenient places both for dwelling and trading.

Holsteinborg District begins at North Strömsfiord, and extends for about ninety-two English miles. Its breadth eastward from the sea is also about ninety-two miles. There are four fiords in the district, and the mountains upon it are high, though not so lofty as farther north. The only European who has penetrated far to the eastward through this district is Kielsen, in 1830. He found the land not so mountainous as toward the sea.

The harbor of Holsteinborg is good, and well landlocked. The spring tides are about 12 feet.

The buildings have, as I was told, the best appearance of any in Greenland. They may be thus enumerated:

The governor's house; priest's house; the church; the lieutenant governor's house; the dance-house; school-house; brewing house; the blacksmith's; two warehouses; one cooperage; one "try" house for oil; thirteen Esquimaux houses, Danish built; three turf houses for Esquimaux, and one dead-house, where de

ceased persons are placed for six days before burial. Graves are dug, even in winter, for burying. Thus the total number of buildings in Holsteinborg amounts to 29.

The population is as follows:

The inhabitants in Holsteinborg District proper number 197: in Kemortusük, 103; in Omanausük, 97; in Sarfangoak, 158; in Itiblik, 108—making a total of 663 souls.

In the town of Holsteinborg there are only ten Europeans, but throughout all Greenland in 1855 they numbered 250. At that date it was estimated there were 9644 Esquimaux, three fourths of whom were of Danish blood and the rest pure.

In the Holsteinborg District there are three small schooners, five small boats, and eleven whale-boats.

In 1859, which was considered a bad year, only one whale was captured, though sometimes ten and twelve have been caught in a single season. Of reindeer 300 were secured; of seal-blubber, 5000 lbs.; liver of sharks, 2000 lbs.; blue foxskins, 100; white foxskins, 150; eider-down, before cleansing, 500 lbs.; after cleansing, 100 lbs.; and of stockfish- that is, dried codfish unsalted, 4000 lbs.

I may state that during Governor Elberg's time, since 1850, there have been killed from 5000 to 6000 reindeer. Several years ago there were obtained in two years from the Esquimaux about fifty tons of reindeer horn, costing some two skillings, or one cent federal money, per pound; 4500 lbs. of it were sent home to Copenhagen, but it would not pay freight.

On

The governor also told me that "whenever the ships were obliged to take home to Copenhagen stone for ballast, they could sell it to no purpose, because it was complained of as rotten." This I found to be generally true. On several mountains I visited, stones exposed to the atmosphere were crumbling. Mount Cunningham I had satisfactory proof of it. Small mounds of stone that have evidently crumbled off the larger mountains may be seen lying at the base. The winters are doing their leveling work, and doing it rapidly.

There are four midwives. Two have a good medical education, obtained in Copenhagen. They receive $70 (Danish) per year.3