The jaws (Fig. 78) which receive the | plate or "curve of lines," its inner edge specimen each have their axis in the same plane horizontally and vertically, and motion given to the worm wheel is imparted through the speci being made to represent a curve, the ordinates of which correspond to the torsional resistance of the weighted pendulum while moving through an are to which the corresponding abscissæ are proportional; while the rotation of the jaw attached to the worm wheel causes the pencil to be moved forward by the action of the guide curve. Upon the shaft connecting the worm wheel and the jaws which receive the end of the specimen is a brass drum 5 inches wide, and circumference equal to 36 inches; upon this drum is stretched a special blank of sectionlined paper, upon which strain diagrams are thus autographically traced. The motion of the pencil in the direction of the axis measures the torsional moment, from which the tensile strength of the specimen may be deduced; while the rotation of the drum carrying the diagram represents the angle of torsion, from which is deduced the ductility of the specimen. By an improved device the worm can be readily disengaged from the worm wheel, and by carefully allowing the pendulum to swing back to its normal position the limit of elasticity may be determined. air-tight and previously filled with the articles to be bleached so arranged that they are not in contact with the floor or the walls. Peroxide of hydrogen, which is now an article of commerce, is the most ef fective and harmless bleaching agent. It is entirely odorless, bleaches the articles in less time than the others, and no special bleaching room is required. Place the articles in a bath of commercial peroxide of hydrogen for hour, then take them out and expose them to the sun. By this treatment even yellowish and brownish willowware is bleached snow-white. Stains for Willow-ware. All kinds of osiers take stains remarkably well, but in order that they may penetrate deeper and remain more constant when exposed to air and light it is advisable to treat the osiers first with a chemical agent, lime-water being especially adapted for the purpose. It is prepared by gradually slaking fresh-burnt lime with lukewarm water until it falls to a fine powder, and stirring 1 part of this with 15 to 16 parts of soft water, allowing it to settle and pouring off the supernatant fluid. The osiers are By placing a number of the diagrams representing strains or tests of various metals, alloys, etc., upon the same sheet, the results obtained may be read-placed in this for to 6 hours, accordily compared. (W.) WILLOW-WARE. Bleaching Willow-ware. This can be effected either by means of sulphurous acid, chlorine, or peroxide of hydrogen. The latter process, though but little practised, is preferable to the others, as no un wholesome gases or bad odors are evolved. For bleaching with sulphurous acid place an iron dish filled with flowers of sulphur in the bleaching room, and, after igniting the sulphur, leave the door open until the sulphur burns freely. Then close the door all but a small crack, and only shut it entirely when the sulphur is nearly consumed. Leave the articles 5 to 6 hours in the room. For bleaching with chlorine mix 1 part of chloride of lime with 15 parts of water, acidulate the mixture with sulphuric acid and place the vessel in the bleaching room, which should be ing to their thickness. They are then taken out and dried at about 96° to 104° F. The warm wood eagerly absorbs every kind of stain. The osiers are generally colored before working them into articles by boiling in the stain for a shorter or longer time, according to their thickness and the depth of the color desired. Small finished articles are, however, sometimes colored by applying the hot stain by means of a brush or dipping them in the boiling stain. For the latter process large vessels and considerable quantities of stain are, of course, required. Black Stain. Place the osiers in a boiling solution of 100 parts of aniline nitrate and 5 parts of cupric chloride in 1500 parts of water for 1 hour. Then take them out, dry thoroughly and place them for hour in a boiling bath of 100 parts of potassium bichromate in 2000 parts of water. No. 2. Boil 250 parts of logwood extract with 2500 parts of rain-water and 15 parts of alum. After straining the liquid to remove the impurities contained in the logwood extract, immerse the osiers for 2 to 6 hours, according to their thickness, keeping the bath constantly boiling to effect a thorough penetration of the stain. After taking them out and drying place them for 2 to 4 hours in a boiling solution of 150 parts of sulphate of iron in 1500 parts of rain-water. A very beautiful black color is obtained by placing the osiers in the above-mentioned decoction of logwood extract, and, after drying, bringing them for 4 to 6 hours in a boiling solution of 130 parts of cupric sulphate in 2000 parts of rain-water. Blue Stain. Boil 200 parts of indigo with 4000 parts of soft water and leave the osiers 5 to 6 hours in the boiling stain. Brown Stains. Place the osiers in a solution of 10 parts of potassium permanganate in crystals in 300 parts of water. By taking them out immediately and allowing them to drain as quickly and uniformly as possible a pale yellow-brown color is obtained; by allowing them to remain hour a somewhat darker color, which, by an immersion of 2 to 3 hours, may be made a dark chestnut-brown. No. 2. Place the osiers for 2 hours in a boiling solution of 15 parts of potash in 200 parts of water, and, after drying, place them for 2 hours in a boiling solution of 5 parts of pyrogallic acid in 200 parts of water. The color thus obtained is a beautiful light chestnut-brown and very constant. No. 3. Place the osiers for 4 hours in a strained decoction of 15 parts of prepared catechu and 3 parts of soda with 200 of water, and, after drying, for 1 hour in a solution of 10 parts of potassium bichromate in 250 parts of water. Gray Stains. Blue-gray. Place the osiers for 2 hours in a boiling solution of 35 parts of sulphate of iron in 150 parts of water, and, after drying, hour in a boiling solution of 3 parts of pyrogallic acid in 100 parts of water. Dark Gray. Place the osiers for 2 to 6 hours, according to the depth of color required, in a boiling solution of 45 parts of sulphate of iron in 150 parts of water, and, after drying, for the same length of time in a boiling solution of 20 parts of pyrogallic acid in 100 parts of water. For the production of beautiful pure gray colors only fine green sulphate of iron is to be used, while for yellowishgray shades the weathered, rusty material is employed. Green Stain. Place the osiers for 3 to 4 hours in a boiling solution of 20 parts of indigo and 10 parts of picric acid in 500 parts of water. The shades of green can be varied at pleasure by using different proportions of the two coloring matters. Bluish-green and blue-green shades are obtained by taking more indigo and yellowish-green and yellow-green by adding more picric acid. Yellow Stain. Boil 20 parts of Avignon berries, powdered or ground as fine as possible, and 2 parts of soda with 200 parts of water, strain, and, after boiling the clear liquor, place the osiers in it for 2 to 4 hours. Yellow Stain from Picric Acid. Dissolve 10 parts of crystallized picric acid in 200 parts of boiling water. By treating the osiers for 2 hours in this solution a beautiful yellow color, of great constancy, is obtained. Coloring Osiers with Aniline Colors. It is best, as a general rule, to produce only black, brown, gray, and yellow colors by means of stains, and the more vivid colors, such as red, blue-green, etc., with aniline colors. In coloring with aniline colors the treatment of the osiers with lime-water is omitted, as in the presence of the smallest quantity of quicklime the aniline colors frequently undergo a change. The osiers are instead treated in a bath prepared by boiling 12 parts of Marseilles soap in 500 parts of water until the soap is dissolved. After sufficient soaking in the soap-bath the osiers are thoroughly dried in a heated room. Aniline colors soluble in water should be used, though such as are soluble in water and alcohol may also be employed by dissolving them in a small quantity of alcohol and diluting with water. The colors soluble in water are mixed with the required quantity of water, best heated from 86° to 140° F., and, after stirring for a few minutes, the osiers are kept in the bath until they are sufficiently colored. Blue Stains. Dark Blue. Fifteen parts of Bengal blue (deep blue) and 350 parts of water. Greenish-blue. Fifteen parts of bleu très vert and 300 parts of water. Light Blue. Fifteen parts of bleu de lumière and 400 parts of water. Sky-blue. Fourteen parts of bleu de ciel and 400 parts of water. Brown Stains. Bismarck Brown. Fifteen parts of Bismarck brown and 400 parts of water. Chestnut Brown. Eighteen parts of maroon and 450 parts of water. Dark Brown. Eighteen parts of leukaniline brown and 350 parts of Iron-gray. Twenty parts of grisrouge and 350 parts of water.. Gray. Fourteen parts of gris and 300 parts of water. Yellowish-gray. Fifteen parts of gris-jaune and 300 parts of water. Green Stains. Dark Green. Fifteen parts of methyl green, 3 parts of bleu de lumière, and 400 parts of water. Leaf-green. Fifteen parts of malachite green, 4 parts of naphthaline yellow, and 300 parts of water. Dark Leaf-green. Fifteen parts of malachite green, 3 parts of bleu de lumière, and 300 parts of water. Light Green. Fifteen parts of methyl green and 300 parts of water. Malachite Green. Fifteen parts of malachite green and 300 parts of water. Red Stains. Crimson. Twelve parts of rouge cochenille and 400 parts of water. Coral Red. Twelve parts of coralline and 400 parts of water. Dark Red. Twelve parts of fuchsine, 4 parts of orange, and 400 of water. Delicate Pale Red. Five parts of eosine and 400 parts of water. Ponceau Red. Twelve parts of ponceau and 400 parts of water. Rose Color. Twelve parts of rose bengale and 400 parts of water. Dark Violet. Fifteen parts of methyl violet and 400 parts of water. Light Violet. Fifteen parts of methyl violet and 400 parts of water. Reddish-violet. Fifteen parts of methyl violet, 3 parts of fuchsine, and 400 parts of water. Yellow Stains. Dark Yellow. Eighteen parts of phosphine and 300 parts of water. Pure Yellow. Fifteen parts of naphthaline yellow and 400 parts of water. Reddish-yellow. Twenty parts of orange, 50 parts of fuchsine, and 550 parts of water. Saffron Yellow. Eighteen parts of saffronine and 300 parts of water. By mixing several colors an innumerable variety of shades can be prot duced; but, to avoid mistakes, it is to always experiment first with small quantities. Varnishing, Gilding, and Painting Willow-ware. If willow-ware is to be varnished without staining, it is best, after bleaching the articles, to give them a coat of a hot solution of white glue. This closes the pores and makes the coat of varnish more uniform and more lustrous. Dammar varnish and cheap copal varnish should never be used. For white ware use colorless spirit lacquer; for dark ware, light and dark brown spirit lacquer or quick-drying copal varnish; and for black, deepblack spirit lacquer or quick-drying asphaltum lacquer. If the ware is to be painted, give two coats of good oil paint, and when thoroughly dry a coat of varnish. For gilding, apply first a coat of well-covering pale yellow oil paint (white lead and ochre), and when dry a coat of gilders' varnish. Before the latter is entirely dry lay on the gold or silver-leaf cut into suitable pieces, and press it down with a cotton pad. When dry remove the superfluous leaf with a soft brush. Bronzing is done by applying a coat of good copal varnish, and before the latter is entirely dry dusting over the bronze powder by means of a soft Violet Stains. Bluish-violet. brush. To avoid unnecessary loss, teen parts of methyl violet, 30 parts of place the article upon a sheet of clean bleu de lumière, and 500 parts of rain-white paper, so that superfluous bronze powder can be saved. water. Fif INDEX. Abbé elixir, 16. Absinthe tincture, 13. veritable extract, 25. Acetate of indigo, 184, 185. potassium, to prepare, 74. Acetic acid, pure, to prepare, 73. Acid, acetic, 360. acetic, to prepare, 73. nitric, detection of in vinegar, 2. oxalic, preparation of, 73. sulphocyanic, to prepare, 73. sulphuric, detection of in vinegar, 2. Adrielle's process of silvering metals, 112. them, 1-3. in beer, 223-226. Agate, how to imitate, 11. Schrader's formula, 12. to convert into onyx, 177, 178. Agents, cleansing, polishing, and renovating, 75-78. Air, compressed, blowing glass by means of, 426-430. Alabaster glass, 144. soap, 333. to cleanse, 78. Albumen, from blood, 324, 325. natural, manufacture of, 324, 325. Alcohol, absolute, to prepare, 227. and compressed yeast from uncrushed cereals, 226. of 70 per cent. to convert to 90 per cent. in the cold way, 226. to purify, 226, 227, 230. use of in detecting adulteration of wax, 2. Alfieri's receipt for removing incrustations, 40. dyeing Turkey red with, 106, 107. liquor, 187. oil, English patent, 107. preparation of, 184-187. process of obtaining, 185–187. Alkaline copying ink, 198. gelatine developer, 298. tooth-powder, 94. Allataim du Harem, 58. for music printing plates, 6. Alloy for imitation of gold and silver wires, 8. Ambergris essence, 13. for soldering aluminium, 4. water, 18. Ambrosia, a new nourishing flour food, 133. (461) |