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in ammonia. When cochineal is used add alum and a small quantity of tartaric acid to the bath.

time in a diluted solution of nitrate of silver and then expose it to the sun. But as the color has frequently a green

Crimson. a. Preparation of the Mor-ish shade it will be necessary to repeat dant. Place the prepared and polished the operation several times to deepen ivory in a solution of pound of chlo- the black. ride of zinc in pint of rain or distilled water; allow it to remain 1 hour, though a longer time does no harm.

b. Preparation of the Dye. Boil for 5 minutes in a porcelain saucer 1 ounce of cochineal and 2 pinches of purified tartar in 1 pint of water. Then,

I. Place the mordanted ivory in the fluid and boil until it has acquired a beautiful crimson color. If a darker tint is desired, repeat the process, rinse the ivory off with clean water, dry, and lacquer it with bookbinders' lacquer.

II. A carmine color is also produced by rubbing 2 drachms of carmine with 6 drachms of crystallized soda and compounding them with 14 pints of water. To the solution add acetic acid slightly in excess. Boil the ivory in this bath until it has acquired the desired color.

III. The articles are first dyed in a decoction of weld and then in a solution of carmine. To prepare the latter, dissolve a pinch (as much as will lay upon the point of a knife) of carmine in 4 fluid ounces of spirit of sal ammoniac, dilute the solution with 1 pint of water and heat the bath. Then place the articles in it and allow them to remain until they are sufficiently dyed. A still more brilliant color will be produced by mordanting the articles with a solution of phosphate of tin instead of with stannous sulphide.

Cherry-Red. This is obtained by placing the articles which have been dyed crimson in an aqueous solution of potash.

Purple. Boil the ivory in a decoction of logwood, then add for every pint of the decoction ounce of alum and boil the articles in this.

Violet. I. The articles are mordanted with the solution of tin, as given under carmine, and then brought into a decoction of logwood in water.

II. Dye the ivory red and then dip for a moment in a solution of indigo. Lilac is obtained by placing the mordanted ivory in a nearly exhausted bath of logwood.

Black. I. Place the ivory for some

II. A beautiful black color is obtained by boiling the ivory in a strained decoction of rasped logwood, then taking it out and placing it in a solution of sulphate or acetate of iron.

III. Boil the articles first in a decoction of gall-nuts and logwood and then in a solution of sulphate or acetate of iron. If, as for instance in billiard balls, white stripes are desired on a black ground, lay a ribbon saturated with wax around the ball and wrap some cord around it. The places thus covered will remain white in dyeing. We will remark here that all colors adhere better to unpolished than to polished ivory, and it is therefore better to polish the articles after they have been dyed. This is done by rubbing with soap and Vienna lime with the naked hand. In dyeing the boiling should not be continued too long or else the ivory will become full of cracks, and the pieces should be cooled off quickly by being placed in cold water when taken out of the dye.

To Produce Black and Colored Drawings upon Ivory. Rub 1 ounce of tears or drops of mastic to a fine powder and gradually pour into it the same quantity of melted wax, to which add 9 drachms of powdered asphaltum, and stir them into a homogeneous mass which should be placed in tepid water, and, after cooling, rolled into balls about 1 inch in diameter, and when entirely cold wrapped in taffeta. White wax is cheaper and can be substituted for mastic by using the following proportions: 24 ounces of asphaltum, 1 ounce of rosin, and 9 drachms of wax. The warmed and polished surface of the ivory is covered with this and the drawing scratched into the ivory surface. Concentrated sulphuric acid is poured over the wax enamel and forms a black deposit upon the surface of the ivory exposed by the etching. Warming the ivory or acid facilitates the operation. Immersion in a solution of nitrate of silver, and subsequent exposure to the sun, gives also a very

durable black etching. Solution of gold gives purple. The etching ground is removed with oil of turpentine. Artificial Ivory. I. Comminute the waste of ivory, bones, horn, etc., by rasping, and immerse the shavings in a somewhat diluted solution of a mineral or vegetable acid. The maceration of the material may be accelerated by heating in a water bath to 95° or 100° F. Strain and compound the shavings with of their volume of ivory glue, and free them from excessive moisture by means of an air-pump. The mass is then mixed with a solution of copal in alcohol and poured into sulphur moulds, where it soon becomes hard. This artificial ivory has the appearance of genuine; thin plates of it are as translucent and can be dyed in the same manner.

Artificial Ivory for Photographic Purposes. Allow glue or gelatine to remain in a bath of acetate or sulphate of alumina until it combines with the alumina. The mass is dried until it becomes hard and is polished in the same manner as genuine ivory. A mixture of equal parts of bone dust, glue, and albumen, brought into a suitable form by rolling and pressing, is also used as a substitute for ivory.*

New Artificial Ivory. Mix 10 parts by weight of white shellac, 8 of ivory dust, 4 of acetate of lead, and 5 of camphor. Heat the mixture, dry, powder, and press it.

To Bleach Ivory Articles fastened upon Leather, etc. Add hydrochloric acid to a solution of chloride of lime, apply the mixture to the ivory by means of a brush, and then expose it to the action of the sun. To prevent the leather, etc., from being attacked by the bleaching agent, it is best to cut the pattern of the ivory ornament out of strong paper, lay this over the leather, and if necessary fill up the joint with wax. When the ornament is bleached, wash off the particles of lime with a brush and water and polish with chalk. For ornaments of horn the bleaching agent must be applied several times; the acid used may also be more concentrated, and a paste consisting of 1 part of water and 1 of chloride of lime

For this purpose nothing equals celluloid. (W.)

may be employed instead of the solution of chloride of lime.

The

Artificial Ivory. Two pounds of pure India rubber are dissolved in 32 pounds of chloroform and the solution saturated with purified ammoniacal gas. The chloroform is then distilled off. residue is mixed with pulverized phosphate of lime or carbonate of zinc, pressed into moulds, and cooled. When the phosphate of lime is used the resulting compound partakes in a great degree of the nature and composition of genuine ivory.

Compound for Buttons, Dice, Dominos, etc. The powder or other filings of soapstone (steatite), obtained in the manufacture of gas burners, is saturated with water-glass, dried, and ground. Buttons and similar articles are pressed from this powder, burned in ovens, dipped again in water-glass, and once more burned. They are then placed in a tumbling box with some water and polished by tumbling, dried, and again polished in a similar box with soapstone powder. Dominos and dice are pressed in a similar manner in dies of brass or steel and then polished.

A New Method of Treating Horn. By this process horn is converted into a substance resembling whalebone. It consists in first cutting the horn into strips, then softening and pressing flat, and next boiling in a closed boiler in a decoction of sage leaves to which has been added a little potash. Horn so treated can be rolled into long strips by passing through rollers, and the ends of the strips can be joined together by the pressure of the rollers; or large sheets may be made by joining the strips at the sides, the rolling firmly uniting the edges so as to form one piece.

To Dye Horn so as to Resemble Tortoise Shell. I. Make a dough of 2 parts of unslacked lime, and 1 of litharge, by adding a sufficient quantity of soap boiler's lye. Cover with this all parts of the horn which are to be dyed. By placing a brass plate under the horn so treated, the imitation will be still more perfect.

II. To produce semi-transparent spaces upon horn, mix with the above dough a substance, for instance chalk or fine sand, which will decrease the caustic power of the dough. This treat

ment produces red stains upon the sur- | few days, when it may be used. After

face of the horn, which enhances the beauty of the article, and its resemblance to genuine tortoise-shell.

applying it to the articles, dry them, by exposure to heat, and, when dry, apply a coat of linseed oil varnish, which is also dried by heat.

Chinese Bronze. Small articles bron

III. Mix orpiment with filtered limewater, and apply the solution with a brush. Repeat the application if neces-zed by this process possess a peculiar beauty, and lose none of their lustre, even when exposed to atmospheric influences and rain.

sary.

IV. Mix 1 ounce of litharge and 9 drachms of unslacked lime to a paste with a sufficient quantity of wine. This composition is applied to the horn, and removed in 3 or 4 hours.

V. By using a solution of gold for dyeing the horn, red stains are produced upon it.

VI. A solution of silver in nitric acid dyes horn black.

VII. A brown color is obtained by brushing the horn over with a solution of nitrate of mercury.

Buttons from Waste of Horn. The waste is pulverized by cylindrical graters, and the powder brought into cylindrical moulds, and subjected to high pressure, the temperature being increased at the same time. The cylinders of horn thus obtained, as soon as they come from the moulds, and while still hot, are cut into disks of the desired thickness.

BRONZING AND COLORING OF
METALS.

Powder and mix thoroughly 2 parts of crystallized verdigris, 2 of cinnabar, 2 of sal-ammoniac, 2 of bills and livers of ducks, and 5 of alum. Moisten the mixture with water or spirit of wine, and rub it into a paste. Cleanse the article to be bronzed thoroughly, and polish it with ashes and vinegar. Then apply the paste with a brush. Heat the article over a coal fire, and wash the coating off. Repeat this operation until the desired brown color is obtained. By adding blue vitriol to the mixture, a chestnut brown color is produced, while an addition of borax gives a yellowish shade.

Bronzing Process used in the Paris Mint. Powder and mix 1 pound each of verdigris and sal-ammoniac.

Take a quantity of this mixture, as large as a hen's egg, and mix into a dough with vinegar. Place this in a copper pan (not tinned), boil in about 5 pints of water for 20 minutes, and then pour off the water.

Green Bronze for Brass. No. 1. Mix For bronzing, pour part of this fluid 80 parts of strong vinegar, 1 min- into a copper pan, place the medals sepaeral green, 1 of red umber, 1 of sal-am-rately in it upon pieces of wood or glass, moniac, 1 of gum Arabic, and 1 of green so that they do not touch each other, or vitriol, and add 4 of Avignon berries come in contact with the copper pan, (fruit of Rhamnus infectorius). Boil and then boil them in the liquid for a the mixture, and strain when cold. quarter of an hour. The articles to be bronzed should be cleansed with weak aquafortis, then rinsed, and the fluid applied with a brush. Should the color not be dark enough, heat the article until it cannot be held in the hand, and then give a coat of spirit of wine mixed with a little lamp-black. Finally apply a coat of spirit varnish.

Oxidized Silver. (Argent oxydé.) Place the silver, or plated, articles in a solution of liver of sulphur diluted with spirit of sal-ammoniac. They are then taken out, washed, dried, and polished.

The above process produces a blue black tint, while a solution of equal quantities of sal-ammoniac and blue vitriol in vinegar gives a brown shade.

No. 2. Add to a solution of 83 drachms Antique Green. This can be imitated of copper in 1 ounce of strong nitric upon new articles by the following proacid 10 fluid ounces of vinegar, 3 cess: Dissolve 1 part of sal-ammoniac, drachms of sal-ammoniac, and 633 of powdered tartar, and 3 of common drachms of aqua-ammonia. Put the liquid in a loosely corked bottle, and allow it to stand in a warm place for a

salt in 12 of boiling water. Then add 8 parts of a solution of cupric nitrate, and coat the articles with the liquid.

Fire-proof Bronze upon Copper and fat is to obtain a uniformly low temBrass. Dissolve 1 drachm of crystal-perature during the superficial oxidalized verdigris and a like quantity of tion of the bronzes. One-half per cent. finely-powdered sal-ammoniac in 14 of wax or paraffine is, for this reason, ounces of rain-water. Cover the vessel frequently added to bronzes. containing the solution, and allow it to stand quietly for 3 to 4 hours, and then add 14 pints of water.

In bronzing, hold the copper or brass article over a coal fire and heat to a uniform heat and color. Then brush it over with the above mixture and dry carefully. In case the article is tinned it must not be heated enough to melt the tin. By thus heating copper 5 or 6 times it acquires a brassy color, and after 6 to 10 applications a beautiful yellow tint. If it is desired to give a copper article a color shading from yellow into brown, it must be very hot when the mixture is applied; for light brown the operation must be repeated 20 to 25 times. When the copper has acquired the desired color place it at once into clean water, but do not cleanse or dry it immediately after taking it out. In fact the greatest care is here required. It is best to dry the article over a moderate coal fire, when the bronze will become durable and fireproof.

Commercial Bronzes. The colors are prepared by beating bronze to thin leaves similar to those of gold. They are then rubbed upon a stone with a pestle, an inspissating agent being added during the process.

Samples analyzed by Koenig contained:

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Bronze for Plaster-of-Paris Figures. The mass used in France for this purpose is prepared as follows: Linseed oil is boiled to a soap with soda lye, common salt being added until the soap separates. This soap is then dissolved in rain-water and compounded with a solution of 4 parts of blue and 1 of green vitriol until a precipitate is no longer formed. The soap is washed out and used for preparing the antique green in connection with a varnish prepared from 12 ounces of litharge and 34 pounds of linseed oil and wax. Now melt together 1 pound of varnish, 81 ounces of bronze soap, and 5 ounces of white wax. Apply this to the figure, previously heated to 190° F., by means of a brush. If necessary place the figure in a heated box until it is thoroughly permeated with the color. The raised parts are rubbed with bronze powder.

Bronze Powders. Melt together in a crucible over a bright fire equal parts of sulphur and the white oxide of tin. Stir them continually with a glass rod until they acquire the appearance of a yellow flaky powder. An iron rod must not be used in stirring any mixture of sulphur when melted, as the sulphur and iron will unite.

Another way to prepare it is to take equal parts of mercury, tin, sulphur, and sal-ammoniac. First melt the tin, then pour the quicksilver into it. When the amalgam thus formed has become cold rub it together with the sulphur and sal-ammoniac. Place the mixture in a crucible and heat until the powder in the crucible becomes gold colored and fumes of mercury cease to arise.

Copper-colored Bronze Powder. This is prepared by dissolving copper in aquafortis until it is saturated and then placing in the solution some small pieces of iron, when the copper will be precipitated in a metallic state. The fluid is then poured off and the impalpable powder carefully washed, dried, and put away for use.

Moiré Metallique. Cleanse sheet iror with diluted sulphuric acid, rinse in

water, and dip it several times in melted tin, covered with melted tallow. Now heat the iron and cool it off quickly in water, and pour over it a mixture of 1 part of nitric acid, 2 of hydrochloric acid, and 3 of water. Then cleanse it with water, dry, and coat it with lacquer. The tinned sheet iron prepared in this manner has the appearance of mother of pearl. [The surface of commercial tin plate may be given this spangled appearance by the use of the same acid liquor. The acid may be applied with the end of a sponge or pad of tow, and followed always by a thorough rinsing in water. The spangled appearance is produced by the solution of the smooth surface of the tin and the exposure of the crystalline structure of the underlying metal. The beauty of the moiré may be enhanced by covering the surface with transparent colored varnish. W.]

Black Bronze for Brass (R. Wagner). Brush the brass with a diluted solution of nitrate of mercury and then several times with a solution of liver of sulphur.

Walker's Chemical Bronze. Boil 1 ounce of ammonium carbonate and a like quantity of blue vitriol in 14 pints of vinegar until the latter is nearly evaporated. Then add 14 pints of vinegar in which has been dissolved drachm of oxalic acid and a like quantity of sal-ammoniac. Place the mixture over the fire until it commences to boil, then allow it to cool, filter, and put by in well-closed bottles.

If a medal, etc., is to be bronzed, it is first thoroughly cleansed, then heated, and the liquid applied by means of a badger's hair brush. In a short time boiling water is poured over the medal, and, when dry, it is rubbed with a cotton rag dipped in oil and then with dry

cotton.

Blue Bronze. Prepare a sand bath as large as the article to be bronzed. Cleanse the metal from all grease by dipping in boiling potash lye, and treat it with white wine vinegar. Wipe and dry the surface thoroughly and rub it with a linen rag moistened with hydrochloric acid. Allow the coating to dry for a quarter of an hour and then heat the article on the sand bath until it has assumed the desired color, when it should be removed.

Brown Bronze. Observe the same process as in the foregoing. The blue bronze is finally rubbed over with a linen rag saturated with olive oil, which will change the blue color into brown.

Gold Bronze of Great Lustre on Iron. Dissolve 3 ounces of finelypowdered shellac in 1 pints of spirit of wine. Filter the varnish through linen and rub a sufficient quantity of Dutch gold with the filtrate to give a lustrous color to it.

The iron, previously polished and heated, is brushed over with vinegar and the color applied with a brush. When dry the article may be coated with copal lacquer to which some amber lacquer has been added.

Steel-blue on Brass. Dissolve 1 drachms of antimony sulphide and 2 ounces of calcined soda in pint of water. Add 2 drachms of kermes, filter, and mix this solution with another of 2 drachms of tartar, 51 drachms of sodium hyposulphite, and

pint of water. Polished sheet brass placed in the warm mixture assumes a beautiful steel-blue.

Black on Brass. Dissolve, with constant stirring, 1 ounce of copper carbonate in 8 fluid ounces of spirit of salammoniac and add 1 pint of water to the solution. Suspend the articles by brass or copper wires in the solution for a short time. It is recommended not to polish the articles with very fine emery paper, as the coating adheres much better if coarser paper has been used. The coating is very durable in the open air.

Red Copper-bronze on White Sheet Tin and Tinned Articles. Dissolve 9 drachms of copper sulphate in rain water until this is saturated; then add 40 to 80 drops of sulphuric acid and brush the tin, previously cleansed with onion juice, with the fluid. When dry rub the article with chalk and rinse with water.

To Give Copper a Durable Lustre. Place the copper articles in a boiling solution of tartar and water for 15 minutes. Remove, rinse off with cold water, and dry.

New Method of Coloring Metals. Metals may be colored quickly and cheaply by forming on their surface a coating of a thin film of a sulphide.

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