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When used as a substitute for wood in the production of large printingtype, it is found to be much preferable to wood. It has a fine surface, possesses great durability, can be readily worked, is light, and can stand all the rough usage of the press. [Celluloid has lately been successfully used for imitating enamel for sigus, monograms, etc., to be attached to glass. (W.)]

Elastic Mass Resembling Leather. The pulverulent residue obtained in refining cotton-seed oil is intimately mixed in varying proportions with suitable non-volatile solvents, such as fats, oils, paraffine wax, resins, etc., and with pulverulent substances, such as graphite, cinnabar, soot, etc., and sulphur powder or carbon di-sulphide is added to the mixture. By heating the mass at 176° to 302° F. until the powder unites with the solvents to a homogeneous mass, a more or less hard, plastic substance is obtained.

Flexible Insulating Mass. One part by weight of mineral wax (paraffine, ozocerite), 20 of wood tar, 32 of shellac, and 32 of dry and finely-pulverized | asbestos, flax, cotton, wood, or paper, are mixed in a boiler at 100° to 200° F., and constantly stirred. For a harder mass use less tar. For an especially hard mass omit the mineral wax, decrease the quantity of asbestos, and add about 24 parts of ground slate or clay, free from iron.

Insulating Material for Electrical Conductors. Mix 66 parts by weight of finely-powdered glass or quartz and 34 parts by weight of pulverized vegetable or mineral resin, and add 26 parts by weight of paraffine, beeswax or spermaceti, and 3 parts by weight of boiled or raw linseed oil. The proportions differ according to circumstances. If the mass is to be exposed to the sun only a small quantity of wax is to be used, while, for underground lines, the quantity of wax must be increased.

Mass for Plastic Models. The following preparation possesses many advantages over most now in use: Mix 200 parts of soapstone powder and 100 parts of the best wheat flour, and stir the mixture carefully into 300 parts of melted white wax, not too hot. The homogeneous mass can be colored at pleasure.

New Imitation of Ivory. This new material possesses all the hardness and brilliancy of celluloid, and has the advantage of being fire-proof. It is prepared as follows: Dissolve 200 parts of casein in 50 of ammonia and 400 of water, or 140 parts of albumen in 400 of water, and add to either solution 240 parts of quicklime, 150 of acetate of aluminium, 50 of alum, 1200 of sulphate of calcium, and 100 of oil, the oil to be mixed in last. For dark objects substitute 75 to 100 parts of tannin for the acetate of aluminium. The mixt. ure is well kneaded, and made into a smooth paste and passed through rollers to form plates of the desired thickness. These are either dried and pressed into metallic moulds previously heated or they may be reduced to a very fine powder, which is introduced into the mould and submitted to a strong pressure. The objects are afterwards dipped into a bath consisting of 100 parts of water, 6 of white glue, and 10 of phosphoric acid. They are then dried, polished, and varnished with shellac.

New Substitute for Caoutchouc. Skins of hares, rabbits, and other small animals, or waste of such skins, are cleansed in water, depilated in limewater, or by some other suitable method, and boiled with 5 per cent. of crude glycerine and as little water as possible, until entirely dissolved. The thickly-fluid, viscous mass obtained is either dried upon nets in an airy room or at once further manipulated. Three parts by weight of the mass and an equal quantity of crude glycerine are melted in a water or steam-bath, and part by weight of a concentrated solution of potassium bichromate is added. The liquid mass is poured into moulds and allowed to solidify under pressure. When cold the articles are taken from the moulds and dried in a dark, airy room. The evaporation of the excess of water takes place more quickly in a dark room than in a light one, as in the latter the surface of the articles becomes too quickly insoluble under the influence of light, which impedes the evaporation of the water in the interior. This mass bears a close resemblance to vulcanized caoutchouc, and has the advantage of standing heat much better.

To prepare a mass resembling hard rubber add less glycerine and a little more chromate and dry between heated, polished metal plates under pressure. A very hard product is obtained by immersing the articles in a bath of chrome-alum solution. This substitute for hard rubber can be sawed, ground, and polished. To make it resist acids add to the mass 30 per cent. of gum-lac dissolved in alcohol. By the addition of suitable coloring matters, imitations of coral, malachite, etc., are obtained. If the mass is to be used for articles which, with great elasticity, have to resist strong pressure, such as railroad buffers, wheel tires, etc., only 1 part of crude glycerine is used and part of comminuted cork mixed with the

mass.

For the preparation of a mass for water-proofing fabrics, etc., add ‡ part by weight of ox-gall to the mass and compound with sufficient soft water to give it the consistency of thickly-fluid oil; about part of the potassium bichromate is used. The thickly-fluid mass thus obtained is brought into a doublewalled cylinder, heated by steam and provided with a roller under which the fabric to be impregnated is conducted.

Substitute for Gutta-percha. The following mass, which is patented in Germany, is claimed to be a good substitute for gutta-percha for many purposes. The process of manufacture is as follows: A mixture of 50 parts by weight of powdered gum copal, 7 to 15 of sulphur, and 15 to 30 of oil of turpentine, is heated to from 228° to 300° F. and thoroughly stirred. After being allowed to cool to 100° F., an emulsion prepared from 3 parts by weight of casein and weak ammonia with an addition of some alcohol and wood spirit is added, and the whole heated once more to 300° F. until it has acquired the consistency of thin syrup. It is then boiled for a few hours with an ammoniacal solution of 15 to 25 per cent. of tannin. The product is cooled, washed in cold water, rolled out, and finally dried.

Superior Modelling Wax. Melt carefully over a moderate coal fire 2 pounds of yellow beeswax, add 4 ounces of Venetian turpentine, 2 ounces of lard,

and 13 pounds of elutriated bole, and mix thoroughly. Then gradually pour the mixture into a vessel with water and thoroughly knead several times with the hands. The wax should be melted at such a low temperature that no bubbles appear upon the melted surface.

Vegetable Leather. This new prod uct, which, it is claimed, possesses all the properties of genuine leather, is water-proof and a non-conductor of electricity, is prepared by mixing 64 pounds of gutta-percha, 2 pounds of sulphur, 2 pounds of raw cotton, 1 pound 5 ounces of zinc white, 34 ounces of colcothar, and 84 ounces of antimony oxide, and vulcanizing the mass by means of steam similar to caoutchouc. Gutta-percha and sulphur are absolutely required, while chemicals of similar nature may be substituted for the other constituents. The proportions of the separate components may also be varied, according to the purpose the product is to serve. The composition is recommended for soles and heels.

CEMENT WORK.

Weather-proof Cement Work. Soak the article for 24 hours in a solution of 1 part of ferrous sulphate in 3 of water and dry in the air. The ferric oxide produced is chemically combined in the cement and makes it denser, harder, heavier, and weather-proof, filling up most of the pores, and giving it an ochre color. Ornamental cement work is brushed over with the solution four times and allowed to dry. The cement work can be rendered extremely resisting by warming and then coating with a hot mixture of equal parts of paraffine and paraffine oil. This treatment is recommended as being especially serviceable for ornamental cement work which is exposed to the weather. By treating twice with a 5 per cent. soap solution, drying and polishing, the surface is made receptive for oil-painting. Chalk objects and room walls treated in this manner will stand any amount of washing. Light ochre color can be obtained by adding alum to the ferrous sulphate; and various shades of green by paint ing with chrome-alum.

CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENO- | sulphuric ether, 2 ounces of aqua am

VATING AGENTS.

monia, ounce of powdered Castile soap and add sufficient water to make 1 quart of the mixture. Use with brush or sponge, and rinse with pure water.

Cleaning-powder for Show-windows. A good cleaning-powder, which leaves no dirt in the joints, etc., is prepared by moistening calcined magnesia with Furniture Renovater. Mix thor. pure benzine so that a mass is formed oughly, olive oil 1 pound, refined oil sufficiently moist to let a drop appear of amber 1 pound, and tincture of henna when pressed. The mixture should be 1 ounce. Keep the mixture in a wellpreserved in glass bottles with ground stoppered glass bottle. For renovating stoppers, in order to retain the easily the polish of furniture apply the mixtvolatile benzine. A little of the mixture with a tuft of raw cotton and rub dry with a cotton rag.

ure is placed on a wad of cotton and applied to the glass plate. It may also be used for cleaning mirrors.

Cleansing-rags for Polishing Metal. Dip flannel rags into a solution of 20 parts of dextrine and 30 parts of oxalic acid in 20 parts of logwood decoction, wring them gently, and sift over them a mixture of finely-pulverized tripoli and pumice stone. The moist rags are piled upon each other, placing a layer of the powder between each two. They are then pressed, taken apart, and dried.

Liquid Polish for Silver-plated Ware. Dissolve 3 to 4 drachms of cyanide of potassium and 8 to 10 grains of nitrate of silver in 4 ounces of water. Apply with a soft tooth-brush, wash the object thoroughly with water, dry with a soft linen cloth, and polish with a chamois skin. Neither whiting nor powder of any kind should be used for cleaning and polishing; they only wear out or scratch the silver. In the case of solid silver some precipitated chalk is allowable in the solution.

use for a considerable time, a coating of collodion may be employed to great advantage. The articles are heated and the collodion is carefully applied by means of a brush, so as to cover the surface thoroughly and uniformly. It is used most conveniently when diluted with alcohol, as for photographic purposes.

Cleansing Wash-leather. Wash the For preserving the lustre of silver or soiled polishing leather in a weak solu-plated ware, when not needed for actual tion of soda and warm water, then rub a good deal of soap into the leather and let it soften for 2 hours. It is afterwards thoroughly washed until perfectly clean, and rinsed in a weak solution of warm water, soda, and yellow soap. It must not be washed in water alone or it will become so hard when dry that it cannot be used again. It is the small quantity of soap remaining in the leather which penetrates its smallest particles and makes the leather as soft as silk. After the rinsing, it is wrung out in a coarse towel and dried quickly. It is then pulled in every direction and well brushed, after which it is softer and better than most wash leather when first bought. If rough leather is used to finish highly polished surfaces, it will be often observed that the surface is scratched or injured. This is caused by particles of dust, and even grains of hard rouge that were left in the leather. As soon as they are removed with a clean brush and rouge, a perfectly bright and beautiful finish can be obtained.

Cloth-cleaning Compound. Take ounce each of glycerine, alcohol, and

New Polish for Wood. Dissolve 6 pounds of shellac in about 4 to 5 gallons of pure alcohol. Then pour 33 ounces of high-grade sulphuric ether over 34 ounces of collodion cotton in a bottle, add 1 ounces of camphor, stir thoroughly and add 96 per cent. alcohol enough to completely dissolve the cotton.

Then pour both solutions together and shake well. The polish is then rubbed in with an oil prepared as follows: Prepare a saturated solution of camphor in good oil of rosemary and add 1 ounces of this to 2 pounds ounces of pure linseed-oil. For finishing, dissolve benzole in alcohol and dilute at pleasure, taking care apply the solution as weak as practicable.

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Polishing Soaps and Pastes have been recently introduced, and as they are preferred by many to the ordinary polishing powders for cleansing gold, silver, brass, etc., we give in the following several receipts for good polishing soups and one for polishing paste. A polishing soap especially suitable for silver and brass is prepared as follows: Set in the ordinary manner 50 pounds of cocoanut oil with 75 to 80° of 23° soda, and boil the mixture to a clear jelly. When the soap is ready and sufficiently solidified add 10 pounds of tripoli, 5 pounds of alum, 5 pounds of cream of tartar, and 5 pounds of white lead, all previously finely pulverized and intimately mixed. Pour the mixture into small, shallow tin moulds, and it will quickly solidify. For cleansing, moisten the articles with lukewarm water with a brush, and apply the soap with a rag.

Another polishing soap is made as follows: Wash commercial colcothar in water 6 to 8 times and then dry it. Next prepare a soap solution by dissolving at a moderate heat 6 pounds of cocoa soap, cut in pieces, in soft water. Mix intimately pound of the prepared colcothar rubbed up with a little water and 5 ounces of purified ammonium carbonate, finely pulverized, and add the cold soap solution, with constant stirring. Keep the polishing soap thus prepared in stone jars closed with oiled paper.

Another polishing soap is prepared by dissolving 14 ounces of Marseilles soap ingallon of water, and adding to the solution 7 ounces of finely-pulverized chalk. The mixture is colored red with fuchsine and kept in stone jars. By applying this soap with leather or a woollen rag the dirtiest articles can be cleansed in a short time.

For preparing polishing paste or pomade melt 7 ounces of beef marrow and add 3 ounces of fine colcothar. Perfume the mixture with oil of almonds and pour it into small tin boxes. Lard may be used instead of beef marrow. Apply the paste with a soft rag, rub thoroughly, and finish with a dry rag.

Restoring Plush. It is customary to use ammonia for the purpose of neutralizing acids that have accidentally de

stroyed the colors of fabrics. This must be applied immediately, or the color is usually imperfectly restored. An application of chloroform, used with caution, will, however, bring out the colors as bright as ever. Plush goods and all articles dyed with aniline colors, faded from exposure to light, will look as bright as ever after sponging with chloroform.

To Clean Glass and Silverware. Egg shells crushed into small pieces and shaken well in decanters three parts filled with cold water will not only clean them thoroughly but make the glass look like new. By rubbing with a flannel dipped in the best whiting the brown discoloration may be taken off cups in which custards have been baked. Emery powder will remove ordinary stains from white ivoryhandle knives, and the lustre of morocco leather is restored by varnishing with white of egg. To clean silver nothing is better than alcohol or ammonia, finishing with a little whiting on a soft cloth.

To Clean Marble. After brushing the dust off with a piece of chamois rub the marble with the following solution: One-quarter pound of soft-soap,

pound of whiting, and 1 ounce of soda, and a piece of stone-blue the size of a walnut. Rub it over the marble with a piece of flannel and leave it for 24 hours, then wash it off with clean water, and polish the marble with a piece of flannel or an old piece of felt.

Another method is as follows: Take 2 parts of common soda, 1 part of pumice stone, and 1 part of finely powdered chalk, sift it through a fine sieve, and mix it to a paste with water. Rub it well over the marble, and then wash with soap and water.

To take stains out of white marble mix 1 ounce of ox gall, 1 gill of lye, and 14 table-spoonfuls of turpentine, and make it into a paste with pipe-clay. Put the paste over the stain and let it remain for several days. To remove oil stains apply common clay saturated with benzine. If the grease has remained in long the polish will be injured; but the stain will be removed. Iron mould or ink spots are taken out in the following manner: Dissolve ounce of butter of antimony and 1

ounce of oxalic acid in 1 pint of rain water, and add enough flour to bring the mixture to a proper consistency. Lay it evenly on the stained part with a brush, and, after it has remained for a few days, wash it off, and repeat the process, if the stain be not wholly removed.

To Cleanse Silvered Dial Plates. Silvered dial plates of clocks frequently lose their lustre by the effect of air and smoke or sulphurous emanations. To cleanse them make pulverized purified tartar into a paste with water. Take some of the paste on a brush of bristles and rub the dial plate with it, turning it constantly, until the silvering has acquired its original whiteness and lustre. Then wash the dial plate with clean water and dry by gentle patting with cloth, and finally expose it for a few minutes to a moderate heat.

To Clean Smoky Walls. Brush them with a broom, then wash them over with strong pearlash water, and immediately rinse them with clean water before the pearlash is dry. When dry, give the walls a thin coat of fresh slaked lime containing a liberal portion of alum dissolved in hot water. Finish with whiting and good size. Be careful not to apply the size distemper till the lime wash is dry, as the latter will destroy the strength of the size if the two come in contact while wet.

COLORS, ENAMELS, CEMENTS, GLUE, VARNISHES, WATER-PROOFING SUBSTANCES, ETC.

American Wood-filler. Mix 1 part by weight each of pulverized starch and heavy spar and part by weight of siccative with sufficient turpentine to the consistency of ordinary varnish. For dark woods add up to part by weight of umber to the siccative.

Apply the filler with a medium stiff brush. When the coat, at first lustrous, becomes dull, remove everything from the surface by rubbing across the grain of the wood with a piece of felt or strong leather fastened to a piece of wood. Allow the prepared wood to dry 8 hours, then rub thoroughly with glass paper, and it is ready for polishing or varnishing.

Cement for Mending Enamelled Dial Plates. Scrape some pure white wax, mix it with equal parts of zinc white, melt the mixture over a spirit lamp, and let it cool. For use, warm the dial plate slightly and press the cold cement into the defective places. The cement adheres very firmly and by scraping with a sharp knife acquires a white and lustrous surface. In case the cement should be too hard add some wax, and if too soft some zinc white. Cleanliness in the manipulation and moderate heating in mixing are the principal points and contribute essentially to the snow-white color of the cement.

Crystalline Coating for Wood or Paper. Mix a very concentrated solution of salt with dextrine and lay the thinnest coating of the fluid on the surface to be covered by means of a broad soft brush. After drying, the surface has a beautiful, bright, mother-of-pearl coating, which, in consequence of the dextrine, adheres firmly to paper and wood. The coating may be made adhesive to glass by going over it with an alcoholic shellac solution. The following salts are mentioned as adapted to produce the most beautiful crystalline coating, viz.: Magnesium sulphate, sodium acetate, and tin sulphate. Paper must first be sized; otherwise it will absorb the liquid and prevent the formation of crystals.

Enamel for Fine Cards and Other Purposes. For white and for all pale and delicate shades take 24 parts by weight of paraffine, add 100 parts of pure kaolin (china clay) very dry, and reduce to a fine powder. Before mixing with the kaolin the paraffine must be heated to the fusing point. Let the mixture cool, and it will form a homogeneous mass, which for use is reduced to powder, and worked into paste in a paint mill with warm water. It can be tinted according to fancy.

Imitation of Cinnabar. Dissolve in 5 parts of warm water made slightly alkaline by the addition of a small quantity of soda 1 part of eosin, and add with constant stirring 100 parts of best orange minium; then add 3 parts of sugar of lead or lead nitrate dissolved in warm water. The mass is filtered and pressed, and the press cakes are cut into small pieces and

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