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VOLUME 8,
No. 10.

A FORTNIGHTLY JOURNAL.

Conducted in the Interests of the Higher Life of the Household.

Original in GoOD HOUSEKEEPING.

Title Copyright 1884. Contents Copyright 1888.

SPRINGFIELD, MASS., MARCH 16, 1889.

THE ETIQUETTE OF TRAVEL.

GOOD MANNERS AT HOME INSURE GOOD MANNERS ABROAD. HE drawing-room car," "the palace car," are not these names suggestive of good manners and polite behavior? Do they not convey a gentle hint to the modern traveler that he should behave with as much politeness in a railway carriage as he would in a lady's drawing-room? It would certainly seem so, and yet one is often surprised to observe the striking contrast between the luxurious and elegant appointments of the conveyances of our era, and the bad manners of certain travelers on whom the refinement of their surroundings seems to have no civilizing effect. Far be it from me to accuse the American traveling public in general of a want of courtesy, since the accusation would be a very unjust one; and even those persons who do annoy us with their want of breeding would often seem to err rather from want of thought than from intentional, downright rudeness. They forget that it is impossible for men to live together as civilized beings if all are in a state of mutual antagonism, or of what amounts to the same thing, of uncontrolled selfishness. If every one should try to get the best place, to take up all the room he could, and to show himself totally oblivious of the rights and comfort of others, a scene of anarchy and confusion would ensue, and every journey might end in that cheerful form of encounter known as a free fight.

One of the most fruitful themes of contention in railway carriages undoubtedly arises from the tendency of travelers to occupy more seats than rightfully belong to them. On this Each person has a point, however, the law is very clear. right to one seat, that is, to one-half of the double seat with which our cars are usually furnished, and to no more. Where the car is not fully occupied, a passenger may, of course, fill up the vacant half of his seat with packages, and may naturally consider that he should not be disturbed until the car begins to fill up, but he must remember that he has no real title to more than half of the settee. The disobliging spirit which many persons show when they are politely asked to remove their bundles, is often very annoying to the new comer, who feels that he has paid for a seat and has a right to occupy one. Still more unreasonable are the people who turn over a seat and expect to occupy four places for two or three passengers They thus compel later when the rest of the car is full. comers to take their choice between standing up, and enduring the double discomfort of riding backwards and of intruding themselves into a group of friends,-into a sort of private box as it were. A quarrel arose out of just this state of things, in

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a railroad car near Boston, some twenty years ago, and the unpleasant result of it was that one gentleman lost his temper and struck another in the face, for which offense he passed three months in the State prison.

Although new comers who take unoccupied seats have right and justice on their side, they are certainly bound to treat those already in possession with civility. No one should sit down beside another person in a railroad car without first asking courteously if the empty seat be engaged, or without allowing the first occupant an opportunity to remove his or her parcels. Few things are more irritating to a lady than the behavior of a man who plants himself abruptly in the seat beside her-perhaps sitting on her bundles or her dresswithout a word of preface or apology. Where a seat has been reversed in order to make a resting-place for bundles, or for the feet of travelers on the opposite seat, a new comer, if he can find no other unoccupied place in the car, would certainly be justified in restoring the seat to its natural position, and taking possession of it, after asking politely if it were engaged. It is customary to respect the rights of an absent passenger, who leaves his valise or umbrella to guard his seat, but, per contra, it is neither fair nor just that a man should expect to occupy two seats on a crowded train-one in the smoking-car and one in the ordinary car. Thus, a gentleman who observed that a seat reserved by a valise remained empty for quite a length of time would be justified in taking possession of it (the seat, not the valise), but it would be polite for him to offer to vacate it when the first occupant returned, and he would certainly offer to do so when he perceived that the latter was acting as an escort to a lady sitting in a neighboring

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seat.

Windows are another fruitful source of irritation in railroad window traveling, and those who like to sit beside an open should remember that, owing to the motion of the car, persons sitting in the seat behind feel the draught more than those who are next the aperture. One should never, therefore, unless possibly on a very hot day, open a window without asking the people in the rear seat whether they object to the draught.

The woman who travels with an enormous quantity of bundles is happily becoming more and more rare. She would do well, however, to keep "all taut," in nautical parlance, when moving through a car, since the passage-way is usually very narrow, and projecting bundles or parasols often knock against the heads of passengers who are already seated, in a way injurious to bonnets and tempers alike.

Should we speak to our fellow-travelers on a railway or steamboat journey? The answer to this question would, I think, depend largely on the age, sex, appearance and experience of the person asking it; also on the length of the journey. On an ocean voyage, or on an overland trip across our vast continent, it is proper and natural that people should make some acquaintances among their fellow-passengers. But one should be very wary of admitting strangers to sudden intimacy, or of talking over one's own or other people's pri

vate affairs with persons casually encountered in the cars. Some travelers who have made this mistake have been surprised and troubled to see blazoned in the newspaper things which they had thoughtlessly said to an agreeable fellowpassenger, in other words to a reporter, whom they had not recognized as such.

Young and inexperienced persons should not, as an ordinary thing, converse with strangers. Young women certainly should not do so,--above all, they should not allow gentlemen to enter into conversation with them, although it may be questioned whether a true gentleman would attempt to talk to a young lady who was unknown to him, especially if he himself were a young man. Age has its privileges as well as its drawbacks, and if elderly or middle-aged ladies like to converse with their fellow passengers, they certainly have a right to do so, a right which some women often exercise, thus extending their knowledge of human nature, while others of more conventional or more timid dispositions, seldom speak to their fellow-travelers. As regards men, one gentleman may certainly converse with another, if the other show a disposition to respond to the advances of the first. Of gamblers, buncosteerers, etc., all men must, of course, beware,--indeed it is a safe rule to have nothing to do with any person who displays a desire to become intimate with a stranger or to inquire about the latter's personal affairs. Such a person, if not a rascal, is at least wanting in proper feeling and refinement, and is, therefore, an undesirable acquaintance, perhaps an unsafe one. It is usually held that a traveling acquaintance ends with the journey which gave it birth. Thus one would not have a right to bow to a person with whom one had had a conversation in a railway carriage, or on a steamboat. On a long journey or voyage, where fellow passengers become well acquainted with one another, this rule would not hold good. But one should never call on a person whom one has met in traveling, unless specially requested to do so. To make such a visit would be to betray ignorance of the laws of good breeding, and would show an apparent wish to force one's acquaintance upon those who did not desire it.

Those who prefer to carry their own luncheon should have it carefully prepared beforehand, so that it can be eaten with nicety. It is not pleasant to the lookers-on, when travelers proceed to eat the legs or wings of chickens, for instance, with the help of their fingers alone. The debris of any such meal should be carefully gathered up and thrown out of the window, since one has no right to offend one's fellow-passengers with the sight of peanut shells, orange skins, etc., scattered on the floor or the window-sills. Those people who eat at frequent intervals throughout a day's journey, not only run the risk of making themselves sick, but also appear greedy, and seem to betray a poverty of mental resource which we do not expect to find, save in children.

Young ladies traveling alone should, if possible, arrange to have some friend meet them at the end of their journey, especially when going to a city or town where they themselves are strangers. In New York, for instance, it is considered hardly safe for a young lady to take a hack at a railway station; it is safer for her to trust to the people's conveyancethe horse-cars. Is it according to etiquette for young ladies to travel alone in a sleeping-car, or on a steamboat during a night journey? It is not, although it will sometimes happen that they are obliged to do so. A young lady so situated should, if possible, secure a state-room leading from the ladies' cabin; she should not go down to supper, nor sit in the general passenger saloon. If she go on a sleeping-car, a section should be secured for her use, or better still, a berth in the ladies' car.

While it is fitting and proper to wear good and well-made clothing when traveling, it is not according to "good form"

to wear jewelry, or striking and showy colors or garments. The traveling dress of a lady and gentleman should-like their demeanor-be quiet and unostentatious, showing innate refinement, instead of a vulgar taste for display, entirely inappropriate to public places. -Florence Howe Hall.

Original in Good Housekeeping.

“WAIT FOR ME.”
Morning sunbeams struggled feebly,
Through cloud-curtains, dim and gray;
All the streets had icy pavements

On that chilly winter's day.
Down the path where I was walking,
Barefoot children,-one, two, three;
Hurried past, the hindmost crying
Piteously, "O wait for me!"
"Wait!" "But on they sped, and onward;
Never listening to the call

Of the little feeble comrade,
Who had started first of all;-
While the little one, despairing
Of a goal I could not see;
Stumbled on, his blue lips crying
Faint, and fainter; "Wait for me!"

One of life's long tedious lessons
Might be learned, we thought, from this;
Mortals all are hastening onward

To some goal of fancied bliss
Seen far down the year's dim vistar,

In a rosy "Sometime" there,

Far off outlines as the mountains
In the misty morning air.

But how few wait for a brother

Where the obstacles may lie,
Few indeed whose lips speak comfort
To the weak ones hurrying by.
Faint to-day, but blest to-morrow,
Though our paths ice-paved may be,—
Few of us e'er heed the calling

Of the weaker, "Wait for me."
So the old year drops behind us;
And the new one shows its rim,
Rosy with the crowns we wait for,
Great with expectations dim,
All the while our hearts are calling,
Though our lips may silent be
Closed by disappointment's pressure-
On the foremost, "Wait for me!"

-Clara B. Heath.

Compiled for GOOD HOUSEKEEPING.
SHAKESPEARIAN HOUSEKEEPING AND HOME-MAKING.

Your father were a fool

To give thee all, and in his waning oft
Set foot under thy table.

Go, sirrah, take them to the buttery
And give them friendly welcome every one;
Let them want nothing that my house affords.

What is't your honor will command,
Wherein your lady and your humble wife
May show her duty and make known her love?
First, as you know, my house within the city
Is richly furnished with plate and gold,
Basins and ewers to lave her dainty hands ;
My hangings all of Tyrian tapestry;
In ivory coffers I have stuffed my crowns ;-
In cypress chests my arras counterpoints,
Costly apparel, tents and canopies,

Fine linen, turkey cushions boss'd with pearl,
Valance of Venice gold in needle work,
Pewter and brass and all things that belong
To house or house-keeping.

Original in GooD HOUSEKEEPING.

THE ETIQUETTE OF CORRESPONDENCE.

NOTE AND LETTER WRITING.

Tis a gift to be able, under all circumstances, to write a graceful note or letter, but it should be possible to everyone to express him or herself in a perfectly correct and sufficiently elegant manner. Nothing so betokens the woman of cultivation and refinement as a concise and well-expressed note, and in no other way can ignorance be so easily betrayed. Sufficient attenSufficient attention is not always bestowed upon this branch of culture by the instructors of the young. That which is learned in youth becomes as second nature, and while a proper use of grammar and syntax, and even graceful diction may be acquired later, the fact that they are acquired is more likely to be evident. How many students, grinding out the detested 'composition" or more ambitious " essay," do so with any thought that far more important than the taking of a coveted prize, or even the possible fame which may await the embryo author, is the preparation for that which will be an everyday necessity.

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Letter-writing as it was in its golden age is almost a lost art. Telegram and postal card, telephone and "letter-sheet," are fast pushing it into the background, and while it certainly is as pleasant to hear from one's friend as ever, one must be content with the brief lines which the rush and hurry of our days permit. In the old time, the chances of sending were so few and far between, delivery slow, and expense not small, that the difficulty gave a desire to make the most of opportunity. That those long and interesting letters should pass away with the mail-coach which carried them to their desti-. nation, is but natural, but if not as admirable as literary efforts, let those which have superseded them be at least as correct in the expression and etiquette which custom decrees. There are some points a knowledge of which is absolutely essential, and we take for granted that the facts that no letter, however well-expressed, can be elegant if mis-spelled, and no matter how well-spelled, if ungrammatically expressed, are too well understood to need repetition, but there is the less-understood branch of punctuation. There was a time when the perfect punctuation of a letter was held a necessity, but, whether it be well or not, custom has now decreed a system of convenient dashes permissible, and fashion's votaries go so far as to declare this the only elegant method, and that only in matter intended for print are colons, semi-colons and their kindred allowable. It seems to us, however, that a knowledge of their use is necessary, and also the ability to place them; then, possibly one is justified in choosing one's own way, even if it be that of the renowned Timothy Dexter, who placed at the end of his book a large number of punctuation marks with the gracious permission to the reader to " pepper and salt" them, as he pleased.

nothing of the animal, but none of these are in good form or denote knowledge of les convenance in the person who uses them. Deep colors are always out of taste, and even in tinted paper care should be used that it be of the most delicate tones, as soft grays, dull blues and cream or light coffee color; pink and green are without the pale. There is one choice which is always safe; the cream white, thick, linen used of the size suitable for note or letter, and this has also the merit of being unaffected by the changes of fashion. Many ladies pride themselves upon the rigid simplicity of their paper and its accompaniments, and keep always to the same kind; for older ladies this habit is particularly appropriate. We know of one who clings to a very thin foreign paper of a dull lead blue and to those who have learned to value her characteristic letters, the sight of the envelope is as a grasp of her hand.

There are many fancies in which a young lady may indulge and still keep within the bounds of good taste. The intricate and gorgeous monogram which so inspired collectors a few years ago is creeping back into some degree of favor, but a simple letter, or combination of letters, stamped in one color or in silver or gold, is a prettier device; these letters are usually placed across the upper left corner of the sheet and are not seen on the envelope, which should be sealed with wax. A very sensible custom has come into vogue of having the name of street and number of house at the top of the paper.

It is not an entirely simple matter to seal an envelope neatly, but it may be done easily after a little practice. The wax should not be allowed to catch fire, as this will smoke it; it should heat slowly. The seal itself must be wet or oiled, to secure a perfect impression. Wax of some dark tone or scarlet is preferable. The delicate tints are not so pretty, and that dusted with gold or silver is perhaps a little too fanciful. The seal used should be simply the writer's initial or initials. We often see an imprint of a coat-of-arms, but sensible people consider this an affectation.

The question is often asked if the use of perfumed paper is allowable. There can be no objection to it in social notes but the odor should be of the most delicate nature. A faint touch of orris is perhaps best, and heliotrope or violet is pleasant, but the heavier odors, as musk, or patchouli are vulgar in the extreme.

Now as to the letter and note proper. The date of a letter should be written in the upper right corner, near the top of the page. The address should be placed there also, unless stamped upon the paper, in which case it is, of course, unnecessary. In a note the date is more often at the end, below the signature, and the name of the person addressed occupies the corresponding side. Never date a letter vaguely; it may seem a trivial matter at the time, but do not forget to write day of week, month, and the year; it is far more elegant to do so, and may save the recipient much trouble if future reference be made to it.

Do not begin the letter half way down the page; "My dear" or whatever form of words used, should be written not more than an inch below the date, and that, perhaps, one inch and a half from the top of the medium-sized sheet. The form used in opening must depend upon the formality or informality of the letter. If it be of a business nature, or to a formal acquaintance, it is well to adopt the third person, being used to maintain the same throughout, that the writer may not become lost in confusion of pronouns. Of course, such a note needs no signature, the name appearing in the

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The paper for correspondence, formal or informal, should never be ruled; it is as easy after a few trials to write without lines as with, and the hand-writing is much less hampered. The many very fanciful papers upon the market are in bad taste, and should never be used; indulge the fancy as far as you like as to quality, but never be led into buying the varied colors, or eccentric shapes, so common. There are sheets folded at the top and envelopes opening from the end, paper with torn edges, paper even with burned edges, paper and mottoes, paper with flowers and indeed, rep resentations of every branch of the vegetable kingdom, to say lately in her employ.

note as:

care

Mrs.. James Brown sends her compliments to Mrs. Smith, and desires to know if Mrs. Smith can recommend Mary Gray,

Mrs. Smith will reply in the same form.

Longer notes or letters, in which it is more difficult to express one's self in the third person, and where some degree of formality is yet necessary, may begin with "My dear Sir or My dear Madam. In cases even of slight acquaintance, the words "My dear" should be used. They are but a form, and the only correct one. Let no young girl hesitate, if she should, by chance, have occasion to address a gentleman, in fear that they are too personal, or familiar; custom has made it as meaningless as "yours truly" in its ordinary use. It is by no means uncommon to see letters begin "Dear Friend Mary," " Friend John," or even worse Friend Miss Mary," a method which does not need the usually additional proof of the capital "F" to stamp it ignorant.

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Do not make in the opening sentence of your letter, the superfluous statement that you take your pen in hand." Your correspondent will know that fact without the information, and it is better to plunge ever so abruptly into the subject. Signatures must vary with the formality or infor

the name.

mality of the note. If the letter is to be sent to a person who does not know if the writer is married or not, the use of "Mrs." is not allowable. If it is necessary to make that known, write at the bottom of the letter after the signature, "address Mrs. Mason," or the fact that the writer is a spinster may be told by placing "Miss "in brackets before The form of ending the letter is, of course, in case of intimate friends, according to one's wish, but in other cases "yours sincerely," "yours truly" are suitable. It is not often necessary to write "yours respectfully;" when so, your judgment should dictate. Never end abruptly with "yours" or "yours etc.;" such a method is rude and ungainly.

Even

Neither should the words be abbreviated, as those "affectionately" and "respectfully" are sometimes seen. among intimate friends, the name is signed in full as "Alice Holmes" rather than "Alice."

Notes of congratulation should be as sincere, and cordial as sincerity permits; if you are glad for your friend, say so heartily. A recognition of gifts, wedding or others, should be sent at once; any delay is most ungracious. A prospective bride should consider this one of her duties, and acknowledge each present as it arrives; a very short note is all that is needed, showing a proper sense of the favor. If deferred till after marriage, do not sign your note with the title of "Mrs." added to the new name. Nothing could be more vulgar. Notes of invitation should be replied to at once, and written, of course. The form should correspond with that used by the person by whom you are invited. For example, if her note requests Mrs. Smith's company" Mrs. Smith writes, also in the third person, that she "will be happy to accept." If Mrs. Brown writes: Dear Mrs. Smith, will you take tea with us, etc. Mrs. Smith replies also in the first person. A note of invitation must never be answered but by one of the same order. A card with "regrets" or "Mrs. Smith accepts" is in bad taste, and never allowable. Cards are most useful as invitations at times, but never for replies to such.

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Notes of condolence are perhaps the most difficult of composition and of course, no form can be given; cards, to a certain extent, do away with the need of writing such, but there are some degrees of friendship, where a note is required and should be sent. These should be short unless you have occasion to know that a larger expression of sympathy will be acceptable. Do not consider it necessary to search for appropriate poems or sentiments; in the first days of grief when such notes must be sent, these will have little weight; keep them for a later visit when they may be of real comfort. Instead write briefly and to the point, an expression of your

own sorrow at your friends loss, and your earnest sympathy. The best note of this kind I have ever seen ran thus: "Dear

If my sympathy could lift your burden it would be light to carry. Your friend

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The subject of a friendly letter, cannot, of course, be dictated, but at least let the epistle contain some fact of interest, rather than the information to a friend in the next town that we have had a rainy autumn." Remember that to make much of little is as much the proof of a good letter-writer as of a good dress-maker. Read the correspondence of Madame de Stael, Fanny Burney, and Lady Mary Wortley Montague, and you will be surprised, gossipy as many of them are, how few bare facts are given in some of the most charming letters. Indeed, bare fact may be called the enemy of the letterwriter. However interesting it may be to you, it will be more so to your correspondent if you weave a web of your own

thoughts and fancy about it. If you are writing a business or otherwise formal note, keep strictly to the expression of what is necessary, giving the recipient no needless information or advice.

The letter is now written and ready for superscription. This must not be placed too high or too low, too far to right or left, but should begin slightly above the middle of the envelope, and towards the left side. Write the address plainly and name in full. We have seen the name of street and number of house occupy the place belonging to the name, out of mistaken charity for the postal officials; they are accustomed to look for this in its rightful position, and, in their hurry, will not thank you. For the same reason they should not be placed at the bottom of the envelope, as is often done. Some people write a large "For" in the upper right corner; this is at least unnecessary, and somewhat of an affectation.

These little things, trivial as they seem, make up the stock in trade, if one may say so, of the elegant letter-writer. While little attention should be given the freaks and changes of fashion, a proper amount is due to that which is always good taste, and unchanging, in this very necessary art. -Anna Sawyer.

Original in Good Housekeeping.

BY THE INGLE GLOW.
All stormy gray the width of sky
That arches o'er a world of snow;
Cold blows the wind and night is nigh;
But side by side Dear Heart and I
Sit by the ruddy ingle glow,
Love in our thoughts, love in our looks,
And worlds at arm-reach just in books.

I lean within my easy-chair

And list the while she plays and sings.
The ingle's red falls on her hair
And weaves a mystic halo there.

Ah, never all the line of kings
Held sweeter princess, dearer throne,
Than I to-night can claim my own!
We open at some witching page

Of gallant tourney long gone by;
Or con the deeds of golden age!
Or live with martyr, saint, or sage;
Or climb beneath an Alpine sky,
And chatting over prose and rhyme
So while away the happy time.

No gray clouds dim our wedded sight,
Life's eventide is far away,

So blow, O winds of darkling night,
And scatter o'er the world's cold white
Your threatened freight, O storm-clouds gray,
Dear Heart and I no ill do know

Here by our ruddy ingle glow.

-Mary Clark Huntington

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Original in GOOD HOUSEKEEPING.

FAMILY FASHIONS AND FANCIES.

DUST SHEDDING FABRICS-FIGURED CHALLIES AND MOHAIRS

SUMMER BONNETS-WRAPS.

HE return of dust-shedding wool fabrics. can be no longer a matter of doubt. The day of the beautiful dull malé rough-sur faced woolen has gone by. It is more becoming than glace-finished fabrics; it lends itself gracefully to intricate drapery, but it catches the dust and in spite of every care soon becomes unfit for wear. A variety of fine goods is shown in market, which supply the demand for a light wool dress which will shed dust. There are mohairs in all colors and black, in plain, striped and figured goods. There are cameline silks, an old goods under a new name, being a durable weave of old-fashioned wool poplin, and there are also many serges woven in the firm finish of French goods, which supply the season's demand.

MOHAIRS, BRILLIANTINES, AND SILK AND WOOL GOODS. The new mohairs are shown in all the dark shades and light tints of the season. All colors in woolen goods are more decided this season and have less of the fade tint of the last few years. Pure shades of gray and of Suede color, darker tobacco brown, réséda green, grayish steel blue, sand gray colors and rush green tints, known this season as dragon green, are all shown in mohair, in stripes and plain colors, which will be used for entire suits or in combinations. Black mohairs or brilliantines will be combined with black moire silk and satin surah, or made up in solid gowns. Dresses in fine stripes in solid color in sand gray, dark steel blue, or dark green are exceedingly pretty and make traveling dresses and driving dresses which will shed the dust. Some of the prettiest mohairs are finished with stripes of silk or mohair as a border. These striped borders then constitute the entire trimming of the dress. White and pale-tinted mohair dresses figured in conventional and realistic patterns will no doubt rival challies this summer for afternoon wear. They are not as pretty and becoming as challies, but they wear so much longer without showing soil, that economical women will prefer them. These dresses will be made with short, full Recamier waists, full skirts, with sashes at the waist, or in some simple manner in Empire style, with trimmings of dark velvet. Pale white grounds of mohair strewn with grass and leaf patterns and finished with cuffs, collar and panels of dark grass green velvet are especially pretty. These mohairs are also pretty in the pale rose tints with trimmings of black velvet, rose and black being a favorite combination of color.

CHEVIOTS AND CAMELS HAIR.

There will still be many camels hairs and cheviots chosen for spring gowns in spite of the popularity of dust shedding goods. The new cheviots are shown in fine stripes and checks on a mixed ground and will make serviceable morning walking dresses, where greater warmth is required than alpaca furnishes. These goods are shown in the darkest mixtures of color. Camels hairs and cashmeres are finished with borders varying from eighteen to twenty inches in width on one side and narrower on the other. Thus pale green, golden brown and Camellia camels hairs are finished with embroidered borders wrought in silver, copper and gold metal, and a hem, usually in white, and white is then introduced in other parts of the gown.

Skirts of all these gowns are extremely narrow, straight and very full behind, with two short steels placed up high enough to do away with the necessity of a pad-bustle. |

Sleeves are quite full, larger than last season, and now approach in dimensions the old time leg o' mutton sleeve.

SERGES, VOILES AND OTHER SHEER WOOLENS. The new veiling, or voiles as importers now name them, are shown in cream and pure white in the old plain goods and with the newer silk and silk-brocaded stripes. These dresses will be chosen for young girls who wish a simple evening dress of white wool and in some cases for graduation dresses. Almost as light in weight as these goods are the silk and wool flannels which are shorn of the nap so they will not catch the dust. The prettiest of these flannels are woven with indistinct hair line stripes of silk and will be in special demand for yachting dresses, as this intermixture of silk renders the flannel more durable and more easily laundried. English storm serges are a new goods in our market. The storm serge before shown, is an inferior fabric to the genuine article, which is so color proof, that a sample wrung out in salt water will lose none of its color by the process. These goods are made only in the standard blue of English navy, black and white and will make the best materials for bathing dresses, yachting or for serviceable gowns for general seaside wear.

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MILLINERY AND WRAPS.

There is no startling change in millinery. Small bonnets for general wear in the city and large hats for driving and country wear are the rule. The use of a face trimming of roses or other flowers with or without foliage is a feature of many of the new bonnets. Flowers have lost none of their popularity and will continue to trim bonnets for spring and summer, as they have even in the depth of winter trimmed those intended for dressy wear. Violets, lilacs, crocuses, dandelions and other flowers of spring will be in demand for Easter bonnets, but afterward roses, orchids and rare blossoms will no doubt be sought after. The return of Neapolitan and chip bonnets to favor is apparently one of the certainties of the season, Milan straws remain the standard choice for ordinary wear. It is even now too early to tell what caprice may change everything. The general belief is, that sheer trimmings, gauzes, laces with flowers and light bonnets will be in greater demand than last season. veil for spring is of real Chantilly, already described, or a white or black masque veil.

The

There are no novel shapes yet introduced in wraps for spring. Long Russian cloaks of faced cloth in fawn and gray trimmed in various ways are shown for the first cloak after taking off heavier winter wrappings. This same shape will no doubt be repeated for summer traveling cloaks. The first jacket for young ladies wear is the sailor jacket introduced late last season. It is fitted to the back, made straight around, and furnished with loose fronts and pockets. These jackets are made of dark blue and other dark-colored faced cloths, or cloths in melanges of color.

Original in GOOD HOUSEKEEPING.

man.

MEN AND GLOVES.

-Helena Rowe.

The American has no time to wear gloves unless for the purpose of keeping his hands warm. Even the "gentleman " out for a walk will carry his gloves in one hand when the air is warm. There are too many men in a hurry to permit the glove-wearer to be as frequent a sight as the bare-handed Men are careless, too, and others have white, tapering fingers that they want to show, or they wear big rings that will not let a glove go over them, while other men have to wash their hands so often that gloves would be a nuisance to them. Society plays and society novels always make their gentlemen fulfill all the requirements of the glove code, but it will have to be some future generation that lives up to the mandate thereof.

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