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we can in the time, and then to accompany the King on his return to Corfu. He is kindness and cordiality personified, and I have been much struck by his unaffectedly amiable and civil manners. In fact, it is impossible to conceive any one less spoiled or changed by his position. He is just the same as he used to be when I first knew him as Prince William of Denmark; yet his position is by no means an easy one, and, from all I hear, he has shown much character and judgment under very difficult circumstances. The Maréchal de la Cour, M. Rodosthonos, one of the Queen's ladies, Malle. Kolocotronos, and the King's equerries, have also been sent here to receive us.
April 21. It was delightful, on awaking this morning, to find again the most beautiful, warm, delicious weather; the air so light and soft that it reminded me of our charming Egyptian climate. The view of the hills from my room was quite beautiful.
Breakfast was at ten, and at twelve we commenced our sight-seeing with a visit to the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Erectheum, Temple of Peace, etc. Certainly I never saw any thing finer than these grand buildings of white marble; of which, in spite of the destruction wrought by the hands of foreigners—and principally, it is sad to think, by the English—anxious to possess the fine works of art by which they were originally adorned, enough still remains to give one some idea of what they must once have been !
We then visited the Temple of Theseus, the exterior of which is well preserved; the inside being a sort of museum, full of fragments and pieces of sculpture, all more or less mutilated, which have been here collected.
We next visited the Temple of Jupiter, of which nothing remains but the columns, and then returned home.
After luncheon, the King and Prince of Wales rode out together, while the Princess and I took a drive.
In the evening there was a large state dinner of 120 people. The dining-room is very fine. The servants, of whom there were great numbers, were all dressed in the national costume (the dress they always wear), which had a pretty effect. It consists of a short, stiff, plaited white petticoat, coming down to the knee, and a short, richly - embroidered jacket and waistcoat, with long open sleeves. The servants all wore mustaches. It is said that the King wanted to alter this custom, but a Greek would rather give up any thing than allow his mustache to be cut off !
After dinner there was a long evening, and we remained standing for nearly two hours.
Royal Gardens, etc.—Leave Athens. 201
April 22. We visited to-day the Greek Cathedral, and afterward the Theatre of Bacchus, which has been only lately excavated. It is a large amphitheatre: the floor and seats, which look like armchairs, of white marble, a name being engraved upon each seat. This, I was told, was the first theatre ever built, and that the first Greek plays were here acted.
We returned home to luncheon, and, after writing some letters, we took a walk through the town, and came home through the Royal Gardens, which are very pretty, and full of the sweetest flowers.
After dinner we again drove up to the Acropolis, which was illuminated. The effect was very fine, and made finer by the bright moonlight, and we remained admiring it for near an hour!
April 23. We left Athens at half past ten for the Piræus, where we embarked in a Greek steamer-the Salmena—the Ariadne having been sent round to meet us at the other side of the Isthmus of Corinth. The Royal Oak, an English man-of-war, followed, with the servants and luggage on board. We steamed out of the harbor, when the Isle of Salamis, and the rock on which Xerxes is supposed to have sat before the battle, were pointed out to us. We arrived at Kalimaki, on the eastern side of the Isthmus of Corinth, at four o'clock, and immediately started in a carriage and four horses for the Bay of New Corinth, at the opposite side. We had an escort of cavalry all the way, as there was a report of brigands being in the neighborhood. We drove at a great pace, and, arriving at five o'clock, found the Ariadne, Psyche, and Caradoc, which had been sent to meet us, with two Greek yachts, waiting for us.
The King accompanied us in the Ariadne, and we had a very fine passage down the Gulf of Corinth or Lepanto; but, as most of the passage was by night, we saw nothing of the land on either side.
April 24. We passed Cephalonia early in the morning, and had Corfu itself in sight by '10 A.M. It was two o'clock, however, before we anchored.
We landed exactly in front of the palace formerly occupied by the English governors, and were saluted, on disembarking, by the few guns left by the English when they gave up the island. There was an immense crowd of people assembled at the landing-place, as well as all the island officials, foreign consuls, etc., and the royal party was much cheered as they walked up to the palace. Here we were received by the Queen, accompanied by Prince William of Glücksburg, the King's uncle.
The King and Queen, with the Prince and PrinFeast of St. Spiridion.
cess, soon after left for the Casino, the villa outside the town where the King lives; the suite, including myself, being lodged in the palace in town. We are, however, expected to dine every day at the Casino.
April 25. It was a very fine day, and it being the day of their great feast for Saint Spiridion, the patron saint of Corfu, the town was unusually bright and gay. From a very early hour in the morning the streets were filled with people, chiefly peasants, in their various native holiday costumes. The women were wonderfully dressed out, and covered with gold ornaments and finery. I saw some beautiful faces among them.
About eleven o'clock they formed regular lines on each side of the streets through which the saint was expected to pass. This Saint Spiridion, who died 1500 years ago, is still kept in a glass case, with a gold frame, richly ornamented, and is taken out of it three times a year to be carried through the streets. There is a long procession of clergy and priests in most gorgeous vestments, carrying flags and banners, and attended by a military escort. I thought it a horrible and disgusting sight to see this old withered body, with its head hanging on one side, thus exposed and carried about. Yet these people believe so im