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lovely coast as we might have done. But has not this been rather the case all through our travels ? Has not too much been crowded into the time, and have we not consequently been forced to hurry through scenes which one would have liked to be able to visit more leisurely? As it is, however, I have so thoroughly enjoyed the whole trip that I will not complain.

I must add, before leaving the subject of our visit to the Crimea, that I was much struck by the exceeding kindness and genuine hospitality with which the Russians every where met us. It was impossible, while receiving their cordial attentions, not to think of all the injury and loss which we had inflicted upon them. Yet they pointed out the scenes of all the most interesting events of the war with a good-nature by which one could not but be touched; showing no rancor against us, and themselves pointing out their own blunders. But when I think of the impression which Sebastopol and its harbor-one a perfect ruin, the other without a ship to be seen in it-made upon me, a perfect stranger, I can well imagine what the feelings of mortification must be, however well they conceal it, with which the Russians themselves must have escorted round this scene of ruin and desolation those to whose countrymen it was chiefly owing. “A Parting Impressions.

195

la

guerre, comme à la

guerre !” may be the answer to these reflections, as it was the one made to me when I expressed them; and so I suppose it will ever be, as long as nations will have recourse, in order to settle their quarrels, to the fearful, and, to my mind, unchristian decision of war.

With which moral reflection I bid a very reluctant farewell to the Crimea.

CHAPTER X.

ATHENS AND CORFU, AND RETURN JOURNEY HOME.

A

PRIL 16. We have had a lovely night, and made

good progress on our way, running thirteen knots all night in perfectly smooth water. It has continued equally fine all day, and at eight this evening, after a very quick passage, we anchored again opposite the Sultan's palace. We remain on board, as we only stay here till to-morrow evening, when we are to sail for Athens.

April 17. On board all the morning till after luncheon. The Prince went, with his two equerries, to pay a farewell visit to the Sultan, who soon after returned it on board the Ariadne.

There was a large party to luncheon, consisting of the English and Russian Embassadors and their wives, our Turkish gentlemen, and some of the Turkish ministers. It was half past four before they left us, when the Princess and I immediately changed our dresses, and had a delightful drive with Mr. Elliot and Mr. Moore. The day was charming, and the

A pretty Sight.-A Gale.Piræus. 197

change of climate since we were here a week ago quite delightful.

We returned to the ship at half past six, took farewell of the gentlemen who had remained on board, and got under way at eight o'clock. Our departure was again a very pretty sight. The Ariadne was lit up with red and blue lights, held by men at the end of each yard-arm. The Turkish ships, too, were all illuminated, with lights hung all over them, to the very mast-heads, and with a light in each port. Rockets were sent up in profusion, while music and cheering were heard on all sides. The weather, too, was all that could be wished, for, though there was no moon, the night was beautifully calm and fine.

April 18. We had a smooth passage all night across the Sea of Marmora; but when we arrived at the forts of the Dardanelles to-day it began to blow, and the wind soon rose to such a hurricane that we anchored, and remained all day inside the Straits.

April 19. Detained all day by the continuation of the gale. Toward evening it moderated, and we again got under way.

April 20. A cold, rainy day. About nine in the forenoon we passed Cape Colonna and the ancient Temple of Minerva, and at one came in sight of the Piræus, the port of Athens, and entered the little harbor under the salutes from all the ships lying here. Soon after we anchored, the King and Prince Frederick of Glücksburg came on board. Mr. Erskine, the English Minister, and the gentlemen of the Legation, had already done so. We had luncheon on board, and at three o'clock went on shore in the King's barge, and, landing close to the station, went at once by the railroad to Athens. This is the first railroad that has been made in Greece, and is the only one yet existing; indeed, it has only been completed, I was told, within the last few days. We arrived in about ten minutes, and drove straight from the station to the palace, a large and imposing building, in the middle of a beautiful garden full of flowers, and orange and other fruit-trees. It is well situated, and the views from the windows, of the sea on one side, and the mountains on the other, are very fine. The rooms are well arranged, and furnished with much taste, every thing having been done under the immediate directions of the King himself.

I spent the afternoon quietly in my own room till dinner-time, which was at seven o'clock.

The King is come to Athens on purpose to receive us, from Corfu, where the Court is at present established, and where he has left the Queen. We are only to remain two days at Athens, to see as much as

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