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which were unknown luxuries on the other ship, in which I had all the difficulty in the world to keep myself in my hard two-feet-wide berth during the heavy rolling of last night, every thing in the Mahroussa being sacrificed to the royal state cabins and saloons.
Mourad Pasha, Abdel Kader Bey, Achmet Bey, Sir S. Baker, Lord Gosford, Sir Henry Pelly, Lord Huntly, Colonel Stanton, and all who had been in attendance upon the Prince, came on board, and had luncheon with us, after which the four first-mention- . ed English gentlemen left us, as they were to embark this afternoon, Sir Samuel and Lord Huntly for Marseilles, Lord Gosford and Sir Henry for Malta. There was also a packet for Trieste, by which we all scratched off a few lines to our friends far away,
and then said a tender farewell to our nice Egyptian gentlemen. We were really sorry to part from them, and I think they were equally sorry to part with us. It is quite impossible for any body to have been nicer, or more thoroughly gentlemanlike and agreeable, than both have been during our stay in Egypt. The Pasha, who speaks French with great fluency, made himself most agreeable to every body. Abdel Kader Bey, though equally amiable and most good - humored, only speaking German, which several of our party did not, never got to know them quite so well. He
told me, with tears in his eyes, that he wished he had never seen us, as he should feel quite lonely and miserable when we were gone, which I quite believe, as there are yet very few Egyptians who have been in Europe, or, indeed, know much about it; so the social life of Cairo must be very tiresome and dull. Indeed, society there is none, and, except their own wives, they never see or talk to a lady.
However, I am getting quite. out of my day's history. I said we bid good-by to our friends with real regret, and also to Colonel Stanton, who is most pleasant and kind, and with heavy hearts we were making up our minds for a final start at five o'clock, especially as it was blowing very hard, indeed a perfect hurricane. We were just watching the two steamers for Marseilles and Malta, having great apparent trouble and difficulty to get off, when, to my great delight (very wicked, I confess), we heard that a small accident had occurred, which made our starting quite impossible. The hawser from an Egyptian frigate lying close by, and moored to the same buoy as ourselves, had got foul of the Ariadne's screw, and was so twisted round it that it could not be got free without a diver. So we had to remain where we were all night, and I confess I was. thankful to get a quiet good night's rest, instead of the tossing that evidently awaited us ontside.
ARCH 28. They were hard at work from day
light in trying to get the hawser clear, but it was near eleven o'clock before they succeeded. Consequently, Mourad Pasha, Abdel Kader Bey, and Colonel Stanton came on board once more, and breakfasted with us.
The wind had gone down, and there was only a heavy swell left, when we finally got under weigh, and left the harbor at twelve o'clock, after another tender farewell to our kind friends.
I looked sorrowfully at Alexandria as long as I could make any thing out, and very lovely my last sight of it was. The palaces and other fine buildings, with their gay coloring of white and pale yellow, looked beautiful in the bright sunshine, and contrasted effectively with the deep clear blue of the Mediterranean, forming one of those lovely pictures, and producing one of those effects of color and light, which, when drawn on canvas, seem unnatural and exaggerated. The scene, too, was enlivened by the
many ships and frigates in the harbor manning yards, “dressing ship," and saluting in all directions, as they did also from the forts. A loud cheer from our own frigate, and the Egyptian National Hymn played by our band, was responded to from the Mahroussa with the English National Anthem. It was, indeed, a striking scene.
The day was warm and pleasant (87° Fahr.), but, as we got farther out, the swell got much heavier, and the ship rolled about a great deal, though, I am happy to say, I felt quite well, in spite of the wind getting up later in the day, which, of course, still farther increased the motion.
March 29. A beautiful bright day, but the swell was still heavy, and I remained below with the Princess till four o'clock, when I went on deck; but the day had changed; a disagreeable sirocco wind had come on, and the sky was clouded over. Passed Rhodes at 6 P.M.
March 30. Again a beautiful bright morning. Princess up and on deck all day. Wrote all the morning in the cabin on deck. At daylight passed Patmos and Levita, off Nikaria at 9 A.M., and at noon abreast of Chios. The lights on these islands and the coloring very fine.
March 31. Passed the Troad, or plains of Troy, in the early morning, before we were up, which mattered little, as it was still dark. At seven o'clock entered the Dardanelles, passing the castles of Kuni Kalessi and Leddet Bahar on the north and south, the two fortresses built by Sultan Solyman the Magnificent to defend the entrance of the Straits. At nine anchored off the Inner Castles of Asia and Europe, when I came on deck. We were saluted by these forts, and Mr. Elliot, our English Embassador at Constantinople, Mr. L. Moore, and Consul Wrench, who had all come down in the Caradoc to meet the Prince, came on board, as well as Raouf Pasha, Chief Equerry to the Sultan, who had been sent on the Sultan's yacht, Pertif Piati, to welcome the Prince and Princess.
We got under weigh again at two o'clock, and two miles higher up passed the castles of Sestos and Abydos, where Leander, as I was told, used to swim across the Hellespont to visit Hero—a feat which Lord Byron was very proud of having imitated at the same place. About four o'clock we arrived at Gallipoli, where we remained for a couple of hours, to allow the Prince and gentlemen to land and walk through the town.
April 1. Having run across the Sea of Marmora during the night, we anchored about nine o'clock in