Kantara.-Camels.-Port Said. 149

been in Egypt; and all seem to delight in the pleasures of rides and picnics in the desert.

After a short delay at Senil el Guisr, we embarked in the Zenet el Bachereen (the steamer the Duke of Sutherland had up the Nile), and breakfasted on board. The French party followed in a small steamer, and the journey was now continued up the canal toward the Mediterranean. About every ten minutes we passed some of the gigantic dredges and wonderful machines for cutting out the canal, which, when completed, will be from five to six metres deep.

At Kantara we saw a large caravan of camels, etc., this being, from time immemorial, the road for caravans from Egypt to Syria.

At 5.30 we arrived, at Port Said, and a very pretty gay sight it was. Salutes were fired from the Mahroussa, the Viceroy's yacht, and other ships, and all vessels "dressed ship" and manned yards-a very pretty scene in the evening light. Went on outside the entrance of the canal to see the breakwaters, which are made of blocks of concrete, of which 2500 have been laid down, at a cost of £16 each. Altogether the expenses of the whole undertaking seem so large, that, in my stupid mind, I can not understand its being possible that it can ever pay. The Viceroy has already given eight millions, and I think it has

not cost less already than two hundred millions of francs.

We landed, and the Prince, Princess, and myself got into a wretched little wagonette, the only carriage at Port Said, the others walking behind. We thus drove through the town, followed by an immense crowd of people, to the workshops, and saw some very clever machinery for executing the works of the canal. Most of the workpeople are French, with some Italians and Austrians, but I was told there was not one Englishman all down the line. They make from ten to thirty francs a day.

We now left Port Said in a state barge, and went on board the Viceroy's yacht Mahroussa, which is to take us to Alexandria. It is a splendid boat as regards luxury, and more like a palace than a steamer. It is said to have cost £200,000.

M. de Lesseps and his party had come on board with us, and now took leave. We had dinner soon after, and got under weigh at 8 P.M. As soon as we got outside the breakwater, we began all at once to roll furiously. We were at dinner at the time-the table covered with every kind of luxury in the shape of decanters, candlesticks, dessert service, etc., when a heavy swell sent the vessel so completely over on one side that every thing on the table was thrown

"Rollers."—Arrive at Alexandria. 151

off with a tremendous crash! We ourselves were all rolled over on the floor, chairs and all! and hardly had we had time to realize our position, before a second wave threw the ship over on the other side, and upset a whole row of plates and china piled up on the sideboard, breaking it all to pieces! The confusion and noise that this occasioned was beyond any thing I ever witnessed. Fortunately this did not last, for, once outside the harbor, we had only some honest, steady rolling, which, though tolerably heavy, did not prevent our going on with our dinner. I staid a long time on deck, the night being very fine, though blowing hard. The band was playing, and the effect of the deck of this immense vessel, so smartly decorated, reminded me of the scene in the Africaine. I was perfectly well, but the heat of my cabin prevented my sleeping.

March 27. At breakfast the English mail came in, but I had no letters. We made an excellent passage in our immense boat, going at the rate of fifteen knots an hour, and arrived about nine at Alexandria. Our arrival was, as before, a very pretty sight; salutes from the forts and from the ships, the latter "dressing ship," manning yards, etc.

After breakfast we all started in the barge, and visited the Rasulteen, Mehemet Ali's old palace, in

the old durbar, or reception-room, of which we had coffee and pipes. We then got into carriages (all those that we had used in Cairo having been sent on here by the Viceroy), and went to see Cleopatra's Needle, which is like a small obelisk, and Pompey's Pillar. Thence we returned through the town to the dock-yard jetty, where we were received, as usual, by a guard of soldiers, and got into the Mahroussa's barge, and pulled off for the Ariadne. It was blowing very hard.

I confess I was very much disappointed with the view I got of Alexandria, driving through the streets. It seemed to me like a shabby second-rate European town. There was nothing Eastern about it. The shops are all French and Italian, and the bazars seemed very poor. The dust was intolerable, and the drive up to Pompey's Pillar was by no means refreshing. Nor when you arrived at it were you rewarded for the trouble; it is nothing but a very large stone pillar, though the size of it, consisting, as it does, of a single block of granite, is very remarkable. You ought certainly to see this town on first arriving in Egypt, and not after Cairo, and all the other beautiful and interesting places we have visited. Still I shall never forget the impression Alexandria made upon me on the morning of the 3d of February, when we

Enjoyment.-The Mahroussa.

153

first anchored in the harbor-the novelty of all the bright costumes and boats, the transparency of the air, the brightness of the scenery, and, above all, the beautiful lights, which are, to my idea, the particular charm of Egypt! Indeed, I have never got tired of watching these lights and shadows; on the contrary, every day I have enjoyed them more and more.

After a good tossing in our little royal barge, we arrived on board our old home, the Ariadne. I confess it was with unfeigned regret I felt that this delightful trip was really drawing to an end. How much have we all to be thankful for, looking back upon these months without a single drawback or cause of anxiety. We have all been perfectly well, and all news from home has, so far, been good. I have, indeed, felt the good the whole tour has done me, not only physically, but morally; as, while you feel well and strong, you can not help feeling also happy and thankful; at least such have been my feelings during these last two pleasant months.

Our big ship looked quite small and poor after the gorgeous Mahroussa, the latter being one mass of silk hangings, Gobelins, gildings, mirrors, tables of Italian marble, mosaic, mother-of-pearl, etc. Still, I felt much more snug and comfortable in my old cabin here, with its nice bed and bath-room, both of