there before me stood a dwarf! As I looked down at her, how I restrained my laughter is more than I can tell; sitting, she appeared a very tall woman; but the comical figure she presented when walking across the room with me was ludicrous in the extreme. Whether the husband, who was a very tall man, had been attracted by her singular appearance or by her money (for she was exceedingly rich) I cannot say. I presume my countenance must have betrayed something of what was passing through my mind, for the husband had a peculiar smile and droll look as I bade him adieu. Right glad did I feel when I was seated in my sledge, where I could indulge in a hearty laugh.

Mr. Tate presented me with a rifle. I had already a pair of pistols, which Mr. Atkinson bought for me in Moscow, so now we have each evening rifle and pistol practice, as it is advisable for me to be at least able to defend myself in case of an attack being made on our precious persons or effects whilst travelling amongst the wild tribes we shall meet with on our journey. I hope, however, I shall not be called upon to use any of my weapons of defence.

Mrs. Tate had prepared provisions of all kinds for us, as there was nothing to be procured on the road, especially during the fast; at least, we are too dainty just yet to eat the peasant's food; perhaps we shall not be quite so fastidious some few months hence. Black bread I have learned to eat, and, indeed, enjoy it amazingly ; this we can procure at any cottage, but white bread we are obliged to carry with us, as also butter; so a goodly stock was provided.

On the evening of Sunday, March 21st, at nine o'clock, we bade adieu to our kind and hospitable friends, who expressed great regret at parting with us. A little snow had fallen on the preceding evening, which enabled us to proceed. After a night's travelling of great difficulty, we reached Kaminskoi Zavod, where we received a most hearty welcome from Madame Gramertchikoff and her son, whose acquaintance I had made in Ekaterinburg. They insisted on our passing some hours with them; we consented the more readily, as I found on the road, as I supposed, that we had forgotten our supply of bread and butter, and Madame Gramertchikoff ordered more to be prepared; but the morning after leaving Kaminskoi Zavod, as I was occupied tugging out the provisions, I came upon our old as well as our new supply; we had a good laugh over the affair, Mr. Atkinson declaring that it was a ruse on my part to procure more. To say truth, we had none too much, this constant travelling in the open air sharpens the appetite.

On our road we passed the monastery of St. Dolomete. It is a magnificent building, most picturesquely grouped together, and in good preservation; it reminded me greatly of the Kremlin at Moscow.

On the 25th we reached Jaloutroffsky, and drove to the house of one of the exiles, for whom we had a gun.

On entering the dwelling, a gentleman in the prime of life came forward to meet us; he appeared not a little surprised at seeing strangers, Jaloutroffsky being off the great post road. I enquired for Mouravioff; he said he was the person I required. I told him I had

CHAP. II.

A HARD REQUEST.

23

come from Petersburg, and gave him my maiden name; I was instantly received with open arms; he then hurried us into his sitting-room, giving me scarcely time to introduce my husband. I was divested of all my wrappings, although we stated that our stay would be short; he then seated me on a sofa, ran himself to fetch pillows to prop against my back, placed a stool for my feet; indeed, had I been an invalid, and one of the family, I could not have been more cared for, or the welcome more cordial. One of his comrades, whose family I was likewise acquainted with, was immediately sent for, as also the wife of one of the exiles, a peasant woman, her husband was dead; many of these poor unfortunates' have married with the peasantry, or with the daughters of the Cossacks. This woman came with her two children; I was the bearer of many a message, as well as little gifts for all. There was likewise a request for her to part with her children, so that they might receive proper education. She told me she would think the matter over; we all urged her to consent, seeing it was for their future well-being; she left us, promising to do her best in bringing her mind to look upon the separation as she ought to do. I am happy to say that I have just heard she has allowed the children (a boy and a girl) to go to their aunt's, in Ekaterinburg, with whom we are acquainted, and who will receive them with great affection. Poor mother! at the same time, I know the pang of parting with her little treasures must have been great; but by the parting from them she has shown her great love.

When left alone with our new friends, the conversa

tion naturally turned upon those whom they had not seen for some three-and-twenty years; various and numerous were the questions they put to us, and not the least interesting subject to them was our onward course. Mr. Atkinson brought from the sledge a folio of sketches he had with him of Siberian scenery. One gentleman said he could not vouch for the accuracy or even likeness to the places represented, never having visited those spots; but what he could say was, that the skies were beautifully true to nature; they were truly Siberian; and how often, he said, have I wished I could delineate them, as in Petersburg they have no conception of what a fine sky is.

Chatting thus, time sped on, and so we stayed dinner, and tea also, and even then felt loth to depart. Our host's wife was a Siberian, apparently a very good woman, but no companion (intellectually speaking) for her husband. Having no children of their own, they had adopted a little girl, who was one night left at their door; they were never able to trace the person who had left it. This custom is quite common amongst the Russians: many of the first families in Petersburg do the same thing; they rear and educate these foundlings, and then bequeath to them their property, just as if they were their own children.

There are several of the political exiles of 1825 living at Jaloutroffsky; they form quite a little colony, dwelling in perfect harmony, the joys and sorrows of one becoming those of the others; indeed, they are like one family.

The freedom they enjoy is, to a certain extent, greater than any they could have in Russia; for instance, full

CHAP. II.

THE EXILE MOURAVIOFF.

25

25

liberty of speech; they fear nothing; the dread of exile has no terrors for them. But what they have not, is liberty to go where they please; they are restricted in distance, as also in the use of fire-arms; however, the authorities in the town are exceedingly lenient towards them, permitting those who are fond of the chase to hunt wherever and whenever they please. These gentlemen, grateful for the indulgence given them, never fail to return the same night.

Mouravioff was looked upon as one of the most determined of the conspirators of 1825. His brother Sèrge was hanged. His was a hard fate, for the rope broke before life was extinct, and another had to be procured; in the meantime, consciousness returned, and he became aware of what was going forward, when he mildly said, 'it was very hard for a man to have to die twice.' The one who was exiled was condemned to solitude on reaching Siberia; he was separated from his comrades, and banished to the forests of Yakoutsk, where he spent a wretched life; his food was of the coarsest kind. The ground on which he had to lie was nothing but a marsh; here he dwelt two years, having intercourse with no one. Every comfort was denied him, even to books and writing materials.

Count Orloff, in one of his despatches to the officer of justice who had him in charge, and who had received strict injunctions that a rigid supervision should be kept over the poor exile, demanded how he spent his time. His reply was rather laconic, he sleeps - he walkshe thinks.' He was after this never interfered with, till he joined his companions in exile.

He is a most perfect gentleman, but there is no