their health being drunk in champagne, which is often declared to be excessively bitter, and is rendered sweet by the bride and bridegroom embracing each other.

After drinking tea, the guests retire, and the young couple, if they have another home to go to, do the same, preceded by some of the married relations of the bride; whose duty it is to divest her of her bridal dress and in its stead clothe her in a muslin capote lined with silk, and a dainty little cap to correspond. Thus equipped they sit taking tea, and chatting, far into the small hours of the night; the poor husband doing solitary duty by marching to and fro in another apartment, waiting patiently till the ladies choose to separate.

The following morning the parents and near relations go to take coffee with the newly married; then there is a dinner-party at the house of the parents; this is followed by a succession of invitations, the last of which is usually hailed with delight, as it leaves the young couple at liberty to retire to the country, which they doubly enjoy, as it gives them a respite from visiting and visitors.

Whilst on the subject of marriages, I may as well tell you of that of a peasant girl which I once saw in the country. On the eve of the eventful day it is customary amongst this class for the bride to be taken to the bath by her young companions. In this case she had to pass by the garden of the house where I was stopping; and, being occupied reading, I was startled by most heartrending sobs. I hastened to the gate to see what it was, and found the bride being supported by her young friends towards the bath. They were attempting to cheer her

CHAP. IX.

A PEASANT BRIDE.

219

by singing. I felt very sorry for the poor girl, as I had heard they often marry without having the slightest affection for their future husbands; indeed, amongst the peasants, a man chooses his partner, not from any beauty or personal attractions she may possess, but for her capabilities of endurance,—one who can do a good day's work carries off the palm in a village. The young wife is obliged to work for his relatives who are incapable of doing so for themselves. Thus this poor girl's sobs drew tears from my eyes; returning from the bath she was still sobbing, and quite bowed down with grief. I was glad when she was out of hearing, she made me feel so very melancholy.

I was invited by a young friend to accompany her to the bride's cottage. I felt some reluctance at doing so, but to please her I went. We entered quite unceremoniously, and found the young damsel seated at table supping off bread and onions; her face radiant with joy. I was startled, the more so when she enquired if she had done it well. I then learned that the weeping was part of the ceremony. I really felt sorry that the whole thing was a farce. After the marriage vows have been pronounced, the lady is veiled and taken to the house of her husband, where all the guests are assembled, and who express a great desire to see the face of the bride; at length the veil is withdrawn, when all exclaim How lovely!' In this instance I was exceedingly amused, as she, though a really good girl, was very ugly.

One of the customs among the peasantry is to hang a whip at the head of the bed. I never understood what this signified till my arrival here in Barnaoul, although

I had seen it at every peasant's cottage on the road. A nursemaid of mine left me to be married, and some short time after she went to the Natchalnick of the place to make a complaint against her husband. He enquired into the matter, when she coolly told him her husband did not love her. He asked how she knew he did not love her; 'because,' she replied, he never whipped her,' the instrument of castigation hung over the bed, and had never once been used since their marriage. There is no accounting for taste; what one considers a proof of love, another looks upon as a want of affection.

Among the amusements of Barnaoul is music, which they are very partial to. The arrival of an artist is always hailed with pleasure, as it gives variety to the ordinary routine of their lives. During our stay two Italians gave concerts, as also Christiana, who plays on the violoncello. At these concerts the artists are aided by the ladies, at least by those who do not object to play in public and before a large assembly. I have not yet told you of the delicious liqueur the Siberians manufacture; in Barnaoul they are famed for it, it is made from every berry that grows. It is called Nalifka, and to my taste is preferable to wine. During the great fast, cream is not taken in the tea, almond milk or a slice of lemon is used instead, and the latter is often taken from choice; but in Siberia lemons are not to be bought, those which find their way there come as presents. As a substitute the juice of fruit is prepared, which is mixed with the tea, making a most refreshing drink.

A short time since we were invited to dine at a friend's expressly to partake of some cauliflowers which had been

CHAP. IX. THE COOK AND THE CAULIFLOWERS.

221

sent him as a present the first ever grown in Barnaoul. The cook, never having seen such a vegetable, had received instructions how to dress them, and managed them to perfection; but unfortunately before sending them to table (they are always given as a separate course), he placed them upon the ice. The disappointment to our host may well be imagined when I tell you he is a man who likes good living, and had looked forward to his dinner on this day with more than his usual satisfaction. He was so very angry that he could not forbear leaving the table on a visit to the cook, who received a good lecturing, and a threat for the future if he ever sent even a cold plate to table again. This was so far useful that the remainder of the dinner was served up very hot, but, alas! poor cook, he was doomed to get into disgrace,—for the ices he sent plates nearly red hot!

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CHAPTER X.

The Silver Mines of Solaier-Tomsk-Krasnoiarsk --Travelling Paraclodnoi, a Mode of Transit to be avoided-Arrival at Atchinsk-Kindness of the Police-master-Visits to Exiles-Mr. Fahlenberg and his History-The Cossack's Return to his Home-The Abakan River— Enormous Snake-Return to Minousinsk-A Plague of Flies-Voyage on the Yenissey-Beauties of the River Scenery.

Irkoutsk, September 3rd, 1850.

AFTER taking leave of our really kind friends of Barnaoul, we started for the silver mines of Solaier, a very pretty place; here we passed a couple of days with the Frazes, some friends we had made in Barnaoul. The child and myself were loaded with presents. Thence we started for Tomsk, where we spent three days, there were so many friends to visit. Had we accepted the whole of the invitations, we should have had to stay a month. After leaving Tomsk in June, all was new to us. We had a frightful journey over roads fearfully cut up: for one whole month there had been rain, with scarcely any cessation. On reaching Krasnoiarsk we fortunately found there the Governor-General of Eastern Siberia. It is at all times agreeable to meet old friends, but in this instance it was doubly so we were in a town where we knew no one, and the only acquaintance we made was the governor. We stopped a week, and, dining with them daily, we soon became acquainted. The