satin, with very high heels and thick soles; their jackets pleased me amazingly, and were really pretty. Those of the servants were of blue cotton, but their superiors wore silk or satin. The latter is called kanfa, and can be washed exactly like a piece of cotton. Now commenced the ceremonies. A servant ran forward to announce our arrival, making signs for us to remain; he shortly returned, and conducted us into a courtyard, where we found the principal officer playing with a goose; however he rose from his stooping posture, and received us most politely. I was completely wonderstruck at his height, Mr. Atkinson appearing quite a small man in comparison; he was like a reed, and as though a blast would have blown him over. He ushered us into his room, a place devoid of furniture, there being merely a raised platform for his bed, on which he seated us. The apartment was shortly filled with persons, undoubtedly anxious to see what we were like. The officer desired to know our object in visiting China. Mr. Atkinson said that being so near Chougachac, he merely wished to pay his respects to the governor, and see the town. The officer replied that we had better encamp, and he would send a despatch to the governor, and the answer would probably arrive that evening. We were seated in our yourt, when our new friend with his secretary and interpreter came to take tea with us. They were evidently much interested in all they saw, examining everything most minutely, and I am not sure whether I was not the greatest curiosity. They told us that they had been stationed at this picquet for CHAP. VIII. A CHINESE PICQUET. 195 three years, and I believe they had another year to stop, before they would be permitted to rejoin their families. They complained bitterly about being separated from their wives. The following morning two officers with three soldiers rode up to our yourt, and the former dismounted and entered. As they had no interpreter we could not understand a word, but, to judge from their countenances, they were enchanted to see strangers. They consented to take tea, but before I had poured it out, the soldiers said something, when they both started up, and shaking us most cordially by the hand, darted out of the tent, remounted their horses, and galloped off at a furious speed. It appeared that they had come from another picquet to have a stare at us. These men were also very tall; so I came to the conclusion that they had been chosen as able to look over the reeds and along the road. The soldiers had bows and arrows slung at their backs; one of them carried a long lance, but they all sat their horses beautifully,- like the Kirghis they had the short stirrup-straps. On going outside we discovered the cause of their hasty departure, the soldiers had seen their superior officers and their retinue on the road from Chougachac. Our first friend sent to say they were coming. In about two hours he came himself to announce the arrival of three officers from the town, who, he said, would be very glad to see us. I put on my hat, and desired Columbus to take care of the child till our return. The Chinaman was perfectly horrified to think we intended walking, he would not hear of our going in so undignified a manner, so we had to order the horses: but, when he found it was our intention to leave Alatau, he was terribly vexed; no! he must go, so I put his hat on and told Columbus to bring him. On arriving at the picquet we found a body of soldiers, they opened a way for us to the presence of the officers; when I took my husband's arm, and we marched along, Columbus following with the boy, and George bringing up the rear as interpreter. We found them sitting cross-legged on a carpet spread under a group of trees; quite a romantic spot, and so exquisitely cool: to the right, in the distance, was seen a tomb, and to the left a stream of water. The officers instantly rose and came to shake hands with us, which they did in a most cordial manner. This being done by each in turn, stools were placed, on which we two seated ourselves, when tea and sweetmeats were handed to us. In the meantime, Alatau had been seized by the kaldi or superior officer, who almost devoured him with kisses, then the other two had him in succession, when he was passed back to the kaldi, who sat in the centre with a low table before him, the others sitting at each side. The conversation now commenced respecting our visit, and Mr. Atkinson repeated his request of the previous day. They put many questions, thinking there was some other motive. Then they said we were the first English who had ever presented themselves in this part of China, and that the governor could not allow us to enter the town, until he had sent to the emperor; but that if we would consent to remain, he would send a despatch to know if we might be admitted, and in the meantime |