Page images
PDF
EPUB

means entitled to the supremacy of the chain, although one of the highest points in it. Dr. Vansant's trigonometrical measurements in 1860 are reported to have given the height of Mt. Hood as 11,934 feet.

Mt. St. Elias has generally been considered the highest mountain in North America on the authority of Malespina's manuscripts, discovered by Humboldt in the archives of Mex. ico, which assign to it an elevation of 17,854 feet. The following circumstances, in the view of Prof. Whitney, justify us in believing that Malespina's measurements were grossly incorrect.

"In the first place," he remarks, "La Perouse measured this mountain in 1786-8, and made it only 12,661 feet high; again, on the English Hydrographical Charts, it is given at 14,970 feet. But, secondly, Vancouver, in his description of the mountain, says expressly that the snow line does not descend very far down its sides, which would be an absurdity, if it was really 17,000 feet high in a latitude of sixty degrees. It is probable that the height given by the British Charts, probably from Captain Denham's measurement, is nearer the truth; and, if so, then St. Elias is nearly 3,000 feet lower than Popocatapetl, and also lower than several other points in Mexico, and lower than Mt. Brown and Mt. Hooker, in British Columbia, according to the usually adopted figures, viz: 16,000 and 16,750 feet. But, it may be said with truth, that these figures given by Douglas are of little value, and that they are considerably above the real heights.

In regard to the height of the Mexican volcanoes, there is no uncertainty. They have been carefully measured by Sonntag, whose barometrical observations agree with the trigonometrical ones of Humboldt, made more than fifty years before. According to Sonntag, Popocatapet! is 17,783 feet in height, and must, therefore, be allowed the honor of standing at the head of the mountains of the North American continent."

PROF. J. D. WHITNEY'S SURVEY OF CALIFORNIA-PROPOSED MAPS.-The California Geological Survey is likely soon to give us much more precise information respecting the physical geography of that state than can now be obtained from all other sources. The following extract from a communication to the California Academy by Prof. J. D. Whitney, the State Geologist, exhibits what has already been accomplished.

"California is covered by a vast net-work of mountain ranges, separated by comparatively narrow valleys, with the exception of those of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, which do not, together, cover more than one-fifteenth of the area of the State. The remaining fourteen-fifteenths may be called mountainous, as the valleys include but a small portion of its surface. Into this mountainous region no accurate surveys have ever been carried; even the General Land Office work stops at the base of the mountains. A few ranch lines have been run among the moderately elevated portions of the Coast Ranges; but, as a general thing, the genuine Mexican grants were limited to the plains.

Without considerable topographical work in connection with the geological survey we should, then, be entirely unable to carry on our geological work with any pretense to accuracy, as we could neither locate our observations nor make our descriptions of the country intelligible. The authority for doing something for the increase of the geographical knowledge of the State is found in the clause of the act authorizing the survey, which requires "proper maps" to accompany the reports.

What has been done, up to the present time, in this department may be briefly recapitulated as follows:

A series of maps, forty-nine in number, has been compiled by Mr. Hoffman from the original documents at the United States SurveyorGeneral's Office; the scale of these is half an inch to the mile. They contain a compilation of nearly all that is known at that office in regard to the geography of the State. The maps, as thus blocked out, have been used by us in the field, by filling in the topography wherever our route has laid.

The maps which have been or are now being prepared for publication are:

1st. A map of the vicinity of the Bay of San Francisco, on a scale of half an inch to the mile, four feet by three; it extends from near Santa Cruz on the south to Napa on the north, and from the Pacific to Corral Hollow, east and west. The area of land which it covers is 4,248 square miles, which is just twice that of the State of Delaware, and only lacks two hundred square miles of equalling that of Connecticut. As near as can be ascertained, it contains one third of the population of the State, and has about thirty inhabitants to the square mile-the average density of the population of California being but little over two to the mile. This map, on which all the details of the topography are given, as minutely as the scale allows, is nearly completed, and will be soon ready for the engraver.

square

2d. A detailed map, on a scale of two inches to the mile, of the vicinity of Mount Diablo; this is about two and one-half by three feet in dimensions, and includes the most important coal mining district yet known to exist in the State. The map can be made ready for the engraver in a few days.

3d. A map of the Coast Ranges, from the Bay of Monterey south to Santa Barbara. It is about three feet by two and one-half in dimensions, is on a scale of six miles to the inch and embraces about 16,000 square miles of territory. To complete it will require about another year's work in the field with two sub-parties.

4th. Map of the Washoe silver-mining region-three and one-half by two and one-half feet in dimensions, on a scale of two inches to the mile -and extending over all the important mining ground of the district. This map is from an accurate trignometrical survey by V. Wackenreuder; it is nearly completed.

5th. Map of the Comstock Lode, on a scale of four hundred feet to the inch, completed.

6th. Map of the central portion of the Sierra Nevada; scale [not yet determined on. Extensive surveys have been made by Mr. Wackenreuder for this part of the work, and these will be continued during the present

season.

Of the above mentioned maps, Nos. 1 and 2 will accompany the first volume of the Report. Nos. 4, 5, and probably 6, the second volume.

It is intended, if the survey is carried to completion, to construct a final map of the State on a scale of six miles to the inch, in nine sheets, each about three feet square.

In addition to the regular topographical work, an extensive series of barometrical observation has been made, for the determination of altitudes, some two hundred and fifty important points having been ascended and measured. The most interesting operation in this department was the determination of the height of Mount Shasta, which, by an elaborate series of observations, we found to be 14,440 feet above the sea level. This is the first of the lofty volcanic peaks of the Sierra Nevada which has been accurately measured.

In the department of geology proper, our explorations have extended over portions of forty of the forty-six counties into which the State is divided; and when it is remembered that the average size of a county is equal to half that of the State of Massachusetts, (California having just twenty-four times the area of that State,) some idea of the magnitude of our work may be obtained. The chain of the Sierra Nevada may be parallelized with that of the Alps for extent and average elevation; while the Coast Ranges are nearly as extensive as the Appalachian chain of mountains.

We have obtained a pretty clear idea of the general structure of the Coast Ranges from Los Angeles to Clear Lake; the vicinity of the Bay of San Francisco has been worked out in considerable detail, including all of San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Alameda, Contra Costa, and Marin Counties, with portions of Santa Cruz, Solano, Napa, and Sonoma. Considerable field-work has been done in the Sierra Nevada, chiefly in the lower portion of the range between Mariposa and Shasta Counties. Our observations have also been extended to the Washoe Region, and we have received considerable collections of fossils from the Humboldt Mining District, (known by this name on the Pacific Coast, but designated on Warren's Map as the "West Humboldt River Range," and in longitude 118°) by which we have been able to fix the age of the formations in that region."

RECENT AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATIONS.-Some months have passed since we have made reference in these pages to the important researches which have been making to discover the physical structure and natural characteristics of the interior of Australia. From the Lond. Geog. Soc. Proceedings (iii, 82), to which we are indebted for so much information that illustrates the progress of British enterprise, we draw the following ex

tracts.

"1. Explorations from Adelaide across the Continent of Australia; by J. McDOUALL STUART.-This expedition proceeded along the previous route until they reached the point attained by Mr. Stuart in 1861, from which he was obliged to retire in consequence of the inability of his small party to penetrate further.

The dense scrub that had in 1861 formed an insurmountable barrier was penetrated after six weeks' incessant labor, and the other side was reached in safety and without loss.

On getting into clear country again and taking observations, they found themselves in lat. 16° 40'. Ten miles further on, or lat. 16° 30', they struck on a large river, apparently a branch of the Roper River, which they followed down until its confluence with the main stream, known as the Roper River. They found that it took its source in some rocky and hilly land, through which they crossed several creeks running in a northeast direction, until they reached the table-land in lat. 13° 50 and in long. 132° 30'. They crossed this table-land and came upon a large river with a strong current, running through well-grassed country, admirably adapted for grazing and agricultural purposes. The river ran in a northwest direction, and the party followed its course for a considerable distance, until in lat. 12° 50′ and long. 131° 40′ it changed to due north. On this course they travelled for about 30 miles, and then struck due east for about 10 to 15 miles; after which due north to the seaport in Van Diemen Gulf, which was reached on the 24th of July, 1862; and on the following day they planted their flag on the beach amid great cheering from the party.

The point on the coast reached was a promontory marked on the Admiralty Charts as being 30 miles east of Cape Hotham.

The river, which they followed, ran about 40 miles parallel with a river marked on the map as the Adelaide, the difference in the longitude being only from 6 to 12 miles. Stuart passed through much good country, well fitted for agricultural and pastoral purposes. Leichhardt had previously seen this tract, and noticed it in terms not less favorable. Even in the scrub water seems to have been found in sufficient quantities to satisfy the wants of all the party, including the horses, obviating any necessity for carrying a supply from camp to camp beyond Newcastle Water.

They were not nearly so fortunate on the return route, being more than two whole days before they obtained a necessary supply-the only occasion on which they were inconvenienced by its want.

Their provisions held out till the latter part of their journey, when they were compelled to sacrifice three of their horses for food.

Mr. Stuart met M'Kinlay at the Kapanda Station; and at the Adelaide Station Mr. Howitt's party were among the first to welcome him home after his laborious but successful mission.

2. Exploration of the Interior of Australia; by Mr. LANDSBOROUGH. -Mr. Landsborough, who had previously (Proceedings, vol. vii, p. 5) explored southwesterly for 300 miles, started from the Gulf of Carpentaria on the 10th February, 1862, following the Leichhardt for some distance, and turning off near the falls in a direction E.S.E. over a grassy country. This terminated in some picturesque hills, among which it was thought that a sheep establishment would be well placed. Beyond the hills there was more wood and less pasture. The Flinders was crossed on the 19th, followed for some time, and finally left on the 1st March in lat. 20° 3'. Near Mounts Little and Brown the river is deep, and seems perennial. The country is probably thinly inhabited, as the

first native was seen on 1st March. The rains in this month were heavy, and rendered the ground soft and difficult. The pasture continued good, with sufficient wood for fuel; but the country would not bear a great amount of live stock, and both water-tanks and annual grass sowing would be necessary. While still on the Flinders a blue range of mountains was visible, and named Branston Range; another mountain was named after Frederick Walker. On the 22nd March the party encamped on the Jardine Creek, an affluent of the river which they had followed so long. On the 26th, while tracing out the neighboring creeks, draytracks were seen, probably those of persons who have occupied Bowen Down, a district discovered two years previously by Mr. R. Buchannan. On the 29th the party reached Landsborough Creek, leading to Thomson River, where Landsborough came upon an old camp of his own. About lat. 22° 58′ they also fell in with some fine looking natives, who said that they had seen an exploring party, but no camels. Further on the natives possessed some iron tomahawks, which they said they got from another tribe on the river to the southward. Continuing their course in a S.S. W. direction, and partly under the guidance of natives, some of whom, however, seemed disposed to be hostile, the party on the 15th April reached a creek which they named Dunsmore, and which led them on the 17th to Cooper River. The country passed through and explored during the next four weeks in the neighborhood of the same river was generally of an indifferent character, and towards the east the horses on more than one occasion suffered from want of water. Marks on many of the trees showed that it had been visited. On the 21st of May they reached the station of a settler on the Warigo River; and thence passed by Bumaranah on the Darling on the 2nd of June, to Menindie and Melbourne by the usual route.

3. Explorations in the Interior of Australia by the Burke Relief Expedition, under Mr. J. M'KINLAY.-The South Australian Burke Relief Expedition was originally organized with the view of ascertaining the fate of, and affording relief to, that portion of the Burke expedition which perished upon Cooper Creek, after achieving the task so unsuccessfully undertaken by previous explorers. It left the South Australian capital on the 14th of August, 1861, and reached the confines of the settled districts on the 26th of the following month. On the 27th of September the party, consisting of nine whites and two natives, with twenty-four horses, four camels, twelve bullocks, one hundred sheep, and dog, crossed Lake Torrens, and fairly commenced their arduous task. Though not at that period occupied, the country to the north of Lake Torrens had been visited by many of the settlers upon the southern margin; and one of them undertook to guide the party to the first of a series of fresh water lakes, about fifty miles in advance. It took several days to reach Lake Hope, as the heat of the weather completely knocked up the bullocks; but by the aid of the camels the expedition was extricated. During the stay of the party at the lake district, an excursion was undertaken with the view of ascertaining the truth of a report that some whites were living upon a raft in one of the creeks in the vicinity. On the banks of the creek were marks of a

« PreviousContinue »