and, if weak, removed for stronger ones, for the winter weather tries the strength very much.

Crocuses. This month you may commence planting out these early flowering bulbs. The old-fashioned way was to plant them all along the edges singly; but they are more effective in patches of half a dozen, and much further apart. A patch of yellow, then one of blue, then one of white, and so on, are more effective, too, than mixing them, besides the stock being kept more valuable. Plant them two inches deep, and six inches from the edge; otherwise their green leaves will grow over and destroy any edging you may have.

Crown Imperials. These are soft and scaly bulbs, which ought to be planted as soon as possible after they are taken up; so that imported bulbs should be planted immediately. These should be planted three feet from the edge, for they run up two feet high, and form a handsome, bushy plant. There are various shades of yellow, and some nearly white; they may be planted three inches below the surface, and should be left in the ground two or three seasons without taking up.

Cuttings. If not already done, slips may be taken of such plants as Cupheas, Gazanias, Jacobæas, Verbenas, etc., and planted in store pots filled with a light open compost, and then covered with an inch of silver sand, into which insert the cuttings. The pots should then be placed in a frame or pit where there is a slight bottom heat. They must not be too much crowded, nor at any time kept too damp, or they will rot before they root. These cuttings, when rooted, are to be hardened off gradually to the temperature of a greenhouse, in which they may stand on a light airy shelf until spring. Cuttings put in earlier will have to be potted separately in small sixties, to remain through the winter.

Dahlias.-These have now done their work, so far as shows are concerned; and when their flowers are not wanted they may be lifted, so as to take no more nourishment from the ground, but must be covered with earth for a few days, lest the frost should reach them.

Deciduous Flowering Shrubs.-These should now be removed, and planted where they are required on the borders, in the clumps, or on the lawn; such, for instance, as the various kinds of Almond, Cherry (double flowering), Guelder Rose, Horse Chestnut (scarlet and yellow), Lilac (Persian, Siberian, and common), Peach, Thorn, and all other ornamental deciduous flowering trees and shrubs. Prune them at the roots, to remove all damaged portions, and lessen the shrubs in head to a reasonable form, because they are often of straggling growth until brought into form in these places. Dig the holes large enough to allow of the roots being spread out, tread them firmly in the ground, and take care that they are put no lower in the soil than they were when last growing; the collar of the root should be even with the surface.

Half-hardy Plants. Those which you desire to preserve through the winter, such as Scarlet Geraniums, Fuchsias, some of the dwarf Lobelias, Calceolarias, and any other subjects of this class, if the weather has permitted them to remain out all this time, should be taken up at once and put into pots as small as their roots can be coiled into, a few of the straggling branches removed, and the plants set into a frame, which should be kept rather close for a few days, until they have partially recovered. They should have a thorough watering after being potted, and daily sprinklings afterwards for a fortnight at least, or longer if they do not get established. After they begin to grow they must have air, gradually increased till they are exposed in the same degree as ordinary greenhouse or frame plants.

Hollyhocks. These may be cut down to within six inches of the ground; and remove all stakes for the winter. If any are to be parted for propagation, shake the earth out of the root, and carefully cut it into as many pieces as are required, taking care that there is a good heart to each piece of root; let these be planted in a store bed, a foot apart, to grow into strength.

Iris. This extensive family comprises tuberous and bulbous rooted plants—the former with sword-like foliage; the latter various, some almost like rushes, others like grass. The tuberous-rooted may be parted to increase them this month; the bulbous may be planted. The English varieties of the bulbous-rooted Iris are far more beautiful than the original species. When you part the tuberous-rooted, you have to retain one or more eyes or shoots to each piece of tuber, according to the size you require the plants or the numbers you want to make; plant them from nine inches to a foot apart every way.

Lilies. The orange, white, and Martagon varieties may be removed from one place to another, and if they are to remain a year or two, one good bulb in a place will be sufficient.

Narcissus. This is a large and varied family, all interesting and beautiful, and should be planted in patches of three (three inches deep), all of a kind; for it is a bad plan to mix the colours and sorts-first, on account of the deterioration of the stock; second, because they are not so rich in appearance. Those in pots should have the same treatment as Hyacinths; that is to say, keep them out of the light and heat. They want no forcing, but merely plunging the pots anywhere in the shade until they are needed else

where.

Phloxes.-Those out of bloom may be parted; any late ones that have not begun to die down may remain till they

do so; but, for effect, they are better in good-sized patches or clumps, and especially the tall ones. As the foliage turns colour on the blooming stems, cut the stems down close, without interfering with the small shoots at the bottom. Seedlings should be planted out this month, if not already done. They can be removed at any time; but it is better to allow seedlings to bloom altogether, for the convenience of examining them as they come out, and rejecting the faulty ones.

Pinks and Pansies.-Beds for the former may still be made with advantage, but it is even better to do it in September; the plants get a firmer hold in the ground, and resist the frosts and changes better. Pinks in store pots must be kept pretty dry, and must stand on dry bottoms in the frames and pits. Any of the latter that have struck and are not yet planted out should be disposed of directly, either in store beds or at the proper distances for blooming, or in small pots singly, to be ready for turning out in the spring or changing to larger pots. Potted plants designed for blooming early and under cover should be shifted to larger pots as they fill the small ones with roots, if room is scarce, or placed at once in their blooming pots, if you have space to house them.

Polyanthuses and Primroses.-These suffer more. from damp than anything. The ground must be cleared of dead leaves, bits of straw, and the ordinary accumulations of autumn; all the discoloured and dead leaves removed, and the soil smoothed under their foliage. This will also bring to light any lurking slug or snail, for there is no plant that offers a more tempting harbour; and this should frequently be done. Those intended to be potted for the winter should be selected with single hearts, if possible, for they always throw up the strongest truss.

Snowdrops. Both the double and single may be planted

in any situation where they can be seen well, for at the best they are but small objects, and would be lost in some places. They ought to be planted in patches of a dozen, not less than two inches deep.

Sweet Williams.-These, as well as Wallflowers, Canterbury Bells, and all the biennials and perennials that are required to bloom in certain places, should be removed now, unless the places are at present occupied by things not yet done with. The sooner all such plants are in their flowering places the better.

Tulips.-The early kinds are seldom grown in beds, but they would make a very dazzling appearance if well arranged for colour. About a dozen sorts would be sufficient; and in planting, there should be seven rows along the bed, so that each row across would contain seven. The rules to be observed are-first, to make the centre of each row the tallest (the others should be in pairs; the two next the centre should be alike, the two next but one should be alike, and the two outside ones alike); second, there should be no two together of the same colour: preserve contrast and uniformity all through the bed. Small offsets of the late sorts should be planted; they suffer by drying up, if kept out of the ground too long. All those of which there are plenty, all mixtures that do not require arrangement, and all that are to be grown in the ordinary beds may be got in at leisure; and the bulbs intended for the best bed should be examined in their boxes, and arranged or rearranged according to the notes in your last year's book. Those which bloom foul should be changed; and make other alterations as you determined on when they were in bloom. In arranging a bed, the three classes of flowers should be uniformly disposed in rows of seven-the same flowers in the first and seventh, or outside, the same in the second and sixth, and the same in the third and fifth. As the three classes-Rose,