be traced to their nests, which, when found, should be surrounded or covered with an inch thickness of quicklime, and watered with a fine rose. Wasps may be enticed into bottles half filled with beer and sugar; but if their nests can be found, thousands may be destroyed by lighting brimstone and tow at the entrances. As for caterpillars, the only effectual method of destroying them is to pick them off by hand, and throw them into salt and water.

Vines.—These on walls must have their growing shoots for next year's fruit securely fastened in as they advance, or otherwise the wind will blow them about and cause much damage. This is doubly necessary where there is much fruit still hanging on the branches. Do not allow any of the branches to shade the fruit, or fall into the very common error of removing the leaves that shade it, because the latter are of service. Rather let the bunches take their chance so far, than remove a leaf on the shoot which holds the fruit. Beyond attending to this, nothing further is necessary than that of removing all side shoots that are not absolutely needed.

Wall Trees.-Give protection to any tender kinds by sheltering them from cold winds, unnailing the younger shoots from the wall for the purpose of preventing premature breaking or budding.

OCTOBER.

Apples and Pears.—Both should be gathered at once; for to leave them any longer on the trees would be running a risk, as, in the event of a frost overtaking them, it would endanger their keeping. We do not mean that they need necessarily be left till this month, because many sorts will

be ready before, which may be ascertained by trying one of the fruit; and if the pips have begun to colour, however slightly, the fruit is ready for gathering. Always gather in dry weather, when the sun has been out some time, as dampness is ruin to fruit of any kind. Lay them in straw, in a dry, cool room, where the frost cannot reach them, and in two or three days they will be wet on the surface; they must be wiped and laid down again, and the operation must be repeated as often and as long as they get damp; but when they have done sweating, no more wiping will be necessary.

Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches.-Many gardeners unfasten the shoots of these, and support them away from the wall. This is done with a view to keeping the growth back, and thus preventing an early bloom, to be eventually cut off by the spring frosts; but we consider the remedy worse than the disease. Our advice is to keep the sun off by covering with net, and there will be a later bloom, which will then escape frost altogether. Let the trees have all the benefit of the sun to ripen their wood; but as soon as the buds begin to swell, cover them up lightly, so as to break the rays of the sun. For this month, however, let them all be exposed to the weather; nail in all loose shoots, as a protection against the wind, but when doing so, remove all useless ones you may come across, without actually pruning, which may be left till next month.

Cherries and Plums.-Any of these on the wall must be carefully examined, and all the useful shoots fastened temporarily, as a prevention against their being broken by wind.

Currants and Gooseberries.-You may leave these till next month; but when the leaf has all disappeared, they may be planted with safety. They may be pruned as soon as you like to begin the work, and the cuttings that will be

produced may be put into the ground to strike, if a supply of young trees be considered necessary.

Late Plums.—The ravages of birds, vermin, and the like must be prevented as far as it can be done; and as soon as you have removed all dead and dying leaves, you may clear the bed or border, as the case may be, and throw the refuse in a heap to rot.

Medlars. These should be gathered and laid by to rot, for it is not until they are decayed that they are considered fit for use. They must, however, be occasionally wiped, or otherwise they would turn mouldy, and become unfit to eat.

Planting. We have no objection to a removal at this season, where absolutely necessary, but, as a rule, next month is the best of the whole year, in most localities, for planting in general. There is no objection to your marking all the trees and bushes you want from the nursery, ready to take up when the time comes round for so doing; and so desirable is it to have them out of the ground as short a time as possible, that we should even go a step further, and have all the holes dug ready to receive them directly they arrive. The distances for standard Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum trees to be planted should, if you have room, be from twenty to thirty feet apart; dwarfs, half the distance. Espalier and wall trees should be fifteen feet asunder, although in small gardens the anxiety for variety induces people to plant closer.

Pruning. Although this is an operation mostly postponed to the beginning of the year, we prefer pruning standard trees while the foliage is on to tell us which branches are alive and which are dead, because all dead wood should be cut away first, and then we can see better as to the living portion. Standard trees, remember, should be as nicely pruned as those on a wall; begin by re

moving all the small wood that crowds the interior of the head, in doing which there is no difficulty, and you can then see how to proceed. Next cut off even the larger branches that have an inward tendency, crossing other branches, for that will open out the head still more. Then, if there be any portions of the head where the branches are still too thick, thin them judiciously, by removing those that are most evidently in the way, keeping in view the fact that you had better retain an ugly, healthy branch, than a handsome one that is cankering. When trees are very tall, it is policy to lower them a bit; but, unless they are positively out of reach, this need not be done, as the best fruit is always nearest the top. It is light and air that conduces to the health and bearing of a tree, and so long as you enable both to get to it in every part, your object will be gained.

Raspberries.-The canes must be well supported in case of high winds, and for this reason the sticks and ties should be occasionally examined, and, where defective, made good; but, beyond this, nothing further need be done. till next month, when the old growth will have died down, and the wood of the canes for next year become more ripened.

Strawberries.-Remove all discoloured leaves and runners, and clear the beds thoroughly of weeds; then loosen the surface of the soil, and draw some of it to the plants. Beds may also be prepared for planting at the end of the month; and for this purpose use strong plants, from runners taken off at the proper season. Having dug and dressed the ground, tread it down flat, but not too solid; then rake it level, mark out the rows with a line stretched tightly, and put it down with the back of the spade. The rows should be one foot apart, and at this rate three rows in a bed will occupy a four-feet width, leaving

six inches outside. Between these beds have alleys eighteen inches wide, or, in the event of ground being scarce, a foot would do. Put the plants in a foot asunder in the row, which will make them the same distance each way. Use a dibble for inserting them, and press the earth close to the roots. Shift all the runners that have been potted for forcing, and use six or eight inch pots-if the latter, you may have as many as three in a pot-and keep them regularly watered until they are transferred to the forcing ground.

Vines. Examine these for the purpose of ascertaining where there are any ill-placed shoots, and remove the same as soon as discovered. Thin the Vine, and look after the fruit.

Wall and Espalier Trees.—These should be divested of lateral shoots, as well as any that extend sideways beyond the prescribed limits; and when this work has been skilfully performed, your next business will be to see that all shoots are closely and regularly trained, so as to give not only the fruit, but the wood itself, an opportunity of ripening.

NOVEMBER.

Almonds. These should have all their weak shoots cut away—we mean those which are too small to bear fruit or bloom; for they belong more to the shrubbery than the fruit garden, the blossom being looked upon as of more value than the fruit.

Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches.-For the further management of these, look to the work for January, if you are desirous of getting the work forward, but not otherwise.