of service to let the tulips have them ; but be doubly careful that the frost does not reach them afterwards. Tulips do not want much wet as a rule, but the foliage acquires strength by a warm shower. In continued dry weather, it is advisable to give a gentle watering all over the foliage, but not in such quantity as to penetrate the earth much.

Violets. These must be kept perfectly clean at all times. Provision should be made at the end of the month for the following season, by planting out the young rooted runners in frames upon a rich soil; keep them close, and shade them for a day or two; then give them plenty of fresh air, and ultimately remove the sashes altogether. Another plan is now to scatter some fresh soil over the beds, in which the young runners will root, and early in autumn take them off and plant them in prepared beds or frames.

APRIL,

Alpine Plants.-Any spare plants may be put out in romantic spots, but take care to keep duplicates of the better kinds in pots. As a rule they may now have an increase of moisture.

Anemones.-Seed may be sown early this month on a loamy soil of a medium texture and richness. The best plan of separating the seed, which is of a fluffy nature, is to mix it with silver sand. Sow thinly, and cover slightly; should the sun be particularly scorching it will be necessary to shade the bed.

Annuals.-Harden off and plant out those of the hardy kinds kept in frames, and sow again early. The half-hardy sorts must be shifted. Preserve some of the best to flower in pots, and put out the rest by the end of the month in a

good situation; protect them by inverted pots, or some such means, from sun, cold, and wind. A sowing may be made both in heat and in the open border. So far as heat is concerned, the slightest kind of hot-bed will suffice. For the purpose of keeping off vermin it is a very good plan to place a ring of quicklime round the bed or patch.

Auriculas.-These are now rising for bloom fast. If the pips in a truss are crowding each other, take out some of the smallest and weakest, leaving about eight to perfect themselves; but if there be a large number, thin them out only sufficient to give room to the remainder. Towards the middle of the month they will begin to show colour. They must then be removed to a shady situation, where they must be thoroughly covered from cold winds and shaded from the sun. The smallest check by frost or cold winds will spoil the bloom. As they open, there should be bits of cotton or moss stuck between the footstalks to keep the truss all in its place, and give the flowers room to open properly; they will then blow in perfection.

Biennials and Perennials.-Sow this month or next, that they may acquire growth and strength during the fine months. As soon as they are large enough to handle conveniently they may be planted out in nursery-beds, where they will become stocky and fit for planting out where they are to bloom before the winter sets in, autumn removal being far better than spring.

Borders and Beds.-These will, by this time, show all their bulbs and herbaceous plants, so that the surface may with safety be stirred up and raked over; whereas if you began before all these things were above ground, although labels might point out the places, there would be risk attached to the operation.

Bulbs. As these come into flower examine them carefully and see that they are true. If the different sorts or

colours are mixed, mark them while in bloom, so that the mistake may be rectified when the roots are taken up. When the ground is required for other plants the bulbs should be taken up on the first calm moist day that occurs, and carefully laid in by the heels so as to ripen their foliage without being again disturbed. If this is done carefully they will suffer little, if any, from the change.

Carnations and Picotees.-Pot these in seven or eight inch pots (called 12's or 8's); put two inches of crocks at the bottom, then a quantity of mould got ready in February and turned over weekly since. The pot containing the plants must be turned up and struck against the potting bench, when the ball of earth will leave it; rub off the surface a little; now let this be adjusted in the large pot, to bring the collar of the plant, that is, the lowest part of the leaves, within half an inch of the top edge; fill up all round, and water gently. Let them be under glass if possible, or at all events in a sheltered place, and be carefully looked after, that they may neither be too wet nor too dry. All those that cannot be potted for flowering (should be planted in rows two feet apart, and half that distance asunder in the

rows.

China Asters.-The principal batch of seed may be sown on light rich soil, under shelter; it is not necessary to provide heat for this purpose. Any already up may be pricked out as soon as they are large enough to handle conveniently.

Climbers.-These will be benefited by thinning the shoots; after which you should regulate and tie or nail in every branch that requires it. As this can never be so well done, or done at all without injury, if the shoots are once allowed to get entangled, the sooner it is seen to the better.

Crocus.-Towards the end of the month the leaves may be tied up in knots out of the way of other plants until well

ripened; meanwhile the ground can be sown or planted if necessary.

Dahlias. Remove such plants as are large enough for planting into a cool frame, and be very careful that no frost or cold winds can reach them, for they are very tender. Continue taking off cuttings and striking them singly in pots, if you have room; if not, you may place a number of them round the edge of a larger one. Take the tops off the forward plants, of which you require great numbers, and replace the beheaded plant in heat to throw out its sideshoots.

Fuchsias.-The coverings may be removed from these by degrees, the shoots judiciously thinned, and, where desirable, the plants may be trained with one leading stem.

Gravel Walks.-These should be turned towards the end of the month and rolled smooth-it gives them all the appearance of new ones; but if the gravel is too dirty or too thin a fresh coat of it will be necessary.

Hollyhocks.-Seed may be sown during the month for next year's flowering, on a compost of rich loam and wellrotted dung in equal proportions.

Hyacinths. The beds of these plants should this month be slightly protected at night and during heavy rain, or otherwise you must not expect to get fine blooms; they should likewise be shaded from intense sun heat. Pay particular attention to the watering of the beds in dry weather.

Lawns and Verges.-In the case of the former, when the grass is rather thin, either scatter some rich soil mixed with some of the proper fine lawn-grass seeds, or lay fresh turf. If it is not very bad, the first is the plan; but autumn is the most suitable time for the operation. All lawns should be frequently rolled, swept, and mown. Much of the beauty of a lawn during the summer depends on commencing to

mow early in the spring, and repeating it as frequently as once a week.

Lobelias.-The various kinds are all worthy of attention, The herbaceous perennial varieties should be separated, and repotted into light soil, and placed in a slight hot-bed for a week or two; after which prepare a place for them by well digging and richly manuring it.

Mignonette. If you did as advised last month, sow a few pots of seed; they will be ready for planting out about the middle of this month to give instant effect. Likewise see to thinning out any that was sown early out-of-doors.

Pinks and Pansies.-Beds of the former may be yet made; but the greatest caution will be required to remove the roots whole, to prevent their losing the moisture by exposure, and to keep them out of ground as short a time as possible. The bed should be formed of rich compost; that is to say, rich in vegetable mould, or leaf mould as it is called, and thoroughly decomposed cow-dung, which is formed into mould also by decay. The pink always requires plenty of vegetable matter in the compost, and the more requisite does it become when they are removed late. They should be planted six inches asunder in rows across a fourfeet bed. The latter may now be bedded out. A batch of struck cuttings should likewise be planted out every fortnight for blooming, if flowers are required for exhibition; for they go off blooming sometimes a while, and it is better to depend on several seasons of planting than on one. Plant at least six inches apart, and not more than seven in a row across a four feet wide bed.

Polyanthuses.-Treat these in precisely the same manner as Auriculas, if they are in pots; but if in the open border, which is by far the best way of growing them, stir the mould up between them, and give a good dressing of leaf mould and well-decayed cow-dung, that is, cow-dung