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TEXTILE AND APPAREL TRADE ACT

HEARINGS

BEFORE THE

SUBCOMMITTEE ON TRADE

OF THE

COMMITTEE ON WAYS AND MEANS HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES

ONE HUNDREDTH CONGRESS
FIRST SESSION

ON

H.R. 1154

TEXTILE AND APPAREL TRADE ACT OF 1987

MAY 7, 18; AND JUNE 2, 1987

Serial 100–11

Printed for the use of the Committee on Ways and Means

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U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE

76–153 WASHINGTON : 1987

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Congressional Sales Office
U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402

COMMITTEE ON WAYS AND MEANS
DAN ROSTENKOWSKI, Illinois, Chairman

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SAM M. GIBBONS, Florida JOHN J. DUNCAN, Tennessee
J.J. PICKLE, Texas BILL ARCHER, Texas
CHARLES B. RANGEL, New York GUY VANDER JAGT, Michigan
FORTNEY H. (PETE) STARK, California PHILIP M. CRANE, Illinois
ANDY JACOBS, JR., Indiana BILL FRENZEL, Minnesota
HAROLD FORD, Tennessee DICK SCHULZE, Pennsylvania
ED JENKINS, Georgia BILL GRADISON, Ohio
RICHARD A. GEPHARDT, Missouri WILLIAM M. THOMAS, California
THOMAS J. DOWNEY, New York RAYMOND J. McGRATH, New York
FRANK J. GUARINI, New Jersey HAL DAUB, Nebraska
MARTY RUSSO, Illinois JUDD GREGG, New Hampshire
DON J. PEASE, Ohio HANK BROWN, Colorado
ROBERT T. MATSUI, California ROD CHANDLER, Washington

BERYL ANTHONY, Jr., Arkansas
RONNIE G. FLIPPO, Alabama
BYRON L. DORGAN, North Dakota
BARBARA. B. KENNELLY, Connecticut
BRIAN J. DONNELLY, Massachusetts
WILLIAM J. COYNE, Pennsylvania
MICHAEL A. ANDREWS, Texas
SANDER M. LEVIN, Michigan
JIM MOODY, Wisconsin

Robert J. LEONARD, Chief Counsel
M. KENNETH BowleR, Staff Director
A.L. SINGLEToN, Minority Chief of Staff

SUBCOMMITTEE ON TRADE
SAM M. GIBBONS, Florida, Chairman

DAN ROSTENKOWSKI, Illinois PHILIP M. CRANE, Illinois
ED JENKINS, Georgia BILL ARCHER, Texas
THOMAS J. DOWNEY, New York GUY VANDER JAGT, Michigan
DON J. PEASE, Ohio BILL FRENZEL, Minnesota
MARTY RUSSO, Illinois DICK SCHULZE, Pennsylvania

RICHARD A. GEPHARDT, Missouri
FRANK J. GUARINI, New Jersey
ROBERT T. MATSUI, California

(II)

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Press release of Friday, April 24, 1987, announcing the hearings.........................
H.R. 1154, text

WITNESSES

Office of the U.S. Trade Representative, Hon. Michael B. Smith, Deputy U.S. Trade Representative..................................................... U.S. Department of Commerce, Hon. Bruce Smart, Under Secretary for International Trade................................................................................. Congressional Budget Office, Edward M. Gramlich, Acting Director, and Daniel Kaplan - ---oo:: Technology Assessment, Henry C. Kelly, Senior Associate, and Dan enok ..

Amalgamated Clothing & Textile Workers Union, AFL–CIO, Jack Sheinkman
American Association of Exporters & Importers:
Julia K. Hughes, Textile and Apparel Group.....................................................
Joan M. Padduck, Footwear Group
American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Robert G. Laidlaw.............................
Atlantic Apparel Contractors' Association, Inc., Arnold Delin...............................
Avtex Fibers, Inc., John N. Gregg................................................................................
Bauch, Thomas J., Levi Strauss & Co
Blaz, Hon. Ben, a Delegate in Congress from Guam.................................................
Boettge, William, National Shoe Retailers Association...........................................
Boyle, Hon. Brian, Commissioner of Public Lands, State of Washington, West-
ern States Land Commissioners Association..........................................................
Burns, Richard, Levi Strauss & Co...............................................................................
Cline, Lloyd E., National Cotton Council of America, and Fiber, Fabric &
Apparel Coalition for Trade.......................................................................................
Coats & Clark, Inc., Robert G. Laidlaw .. --
Congressional Textile Caucus:
Hon. Butler Derrick, a Representative in Congress from the State of
South Carolina......................................................................
Hon. W.G. (Bill) Hefner, a Representative in Congress from the State of
North Carolina..................................................................
Ho Frank Horton, a Representative in Congress from the State of New
Ork “.....................................................................................................................
Hon. Ed Jenkins, a Representative in Congress from the State of Georgia.
Hon. David E. Price, a Representative in Congress from the State of
North Carolina
Hon. Harold Rogers, a Representative in Congress from the State of
Kentucky....~~~~
Delin, Arnold, Keystone Apparel Association, and Atlantic Apparel Contrac-
tors' Association, Inc...................
Derrick, Hon. Butler, a Representative in Congress from the State of South
Carolina, and Chairman, Congressional Textile Caucus......................................
DuBrow, Evelyn, International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, AFL–CI
Emrich, Tom, Retail Industry Trade Action Coalition.............................................
Fall River, MA, Mayor Carlton Viveiros....................................................
Fiber, Fabric & Apparel Coalition for Trade:
Lloyd E. Cline, National Cotton Council of America........................................
John N. Gregg, Avtex Fibers, Inc

(III)

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Harari, David, Sarne Corp., and National Fashion Accessories Association....... 287
Hefner, Hon. W.G. (Bill), a Representative in Congress from the State of
North Carolina, and member, Congressional Textile Caucus.............................. 19
Horton, Hon. Frank, a Representative in Congress from the State of New
York, and member, Congressional Textile Caucus................................................ 16

Hughes, Julia K., American Association of Exporters & Importers, Textile

and Apparel Group..... 230

International Footwear Association, Ted Rowland................................................... 284

International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, AFL–CIO, Jay Mazur, Evelyn

DuBrow, and Herman Starobin............. 305

WA, Phillip Lelli............................................ --- 330

Jenkins, Hon. Ed, a Representative in Congress from the State of Georgia,

and former Chairman, Congressional Textile Caucus 5

Keystone Apparel Association, Arnold Delin..................... 215

Kilgore, James, Levi Strauss & Co.................... 203

Laidlaw, Robert G., American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Coats & Clark,

Inc., and Fiber, Fabric & Apparel Coalition for Trade......................................... 87

Lancaster, Hon. H. Martin, a Representative in Congress from the State of

North Carolina........................ ---------------------------------------- 435

Lelli, Phillip, International Longshoremen's & Warehousemen's Union, Local

23, Tacoma, WA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 330

Levi Strauss & Co., Thomas J. Bauch, Richard Burns, and James Kilgore 203

Long Beach, CA, Port of, Travis A. Montgomery...................................................... 331

Mangione, Peter T., Footwear Retailers of America................................. 149

Mazur, Jay, International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, AFL–CIO 305

McMillan, Hon. J. Alex., a Representative in Congress from the State of

North Carolina....................................................... 429

Montgomery, Travis A., Port of Long Beach, CA...................................................... 331

Mounger, Larry C., Pacific Trail, Inc., and Northwest Apparel & Textile

Association...................... 210

Mueller, Ronald J., Florsheim Shoe Co....................................................................... 285

National Cotton Council of America, Lloyd E. Cline................................................ 92

National Fashion Accessories Association, David Harari........................................ 287

National Shoe Retailers Association, William Boettge............................................ 160

Neal, Hon. Stephen L., a Representative in Congress from the State of North

Carolina........................................................................ 429

Northwest Apparel & Textile Association, Larry C. Mounger. 210
Pacific Trail, Inc., Larry C. Mounger........................................................................... 210
Padduck, Joan M., Reebok International, Ltd., and American Association of
Exporters & Importers, Footwear Group................................................................. 280
Price, Hon. David E., a Representative in Congress from the State of North
Carolina, and member, Congressional Textile Caucus. 30
Reebok International, Ltd., Joan M. Padduck.................. 280
Retail Industry Trade Action Coalition, W. Thomas Go - y
and Tom Emrich........................................................................................................... 117
Ripley Industries, Inc., Robert H. Slosberg................................................................. 97
Rohomas N., Stanwood Corp., and Fiber, Fabric & Apparel Coalition for 62
rade ..............................................................................................................................
Rogers, Hon. Harold, a Representative in Congress from the State of Ken-
tucky, and member, Congressional Textile Caucus............................................... 23
Rowland, Ted, International Footwear Association................ 284
Samolis, Frank R., Retail Industry Trade Action Coalition. 117

Sarne Corp., David Harari............................................................................................. 287
Sheinkman, Jack, Amalgamated Clothing & Textile Workers Union, AFL–

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CIO, and Fiber, Fabric & Apparel Coalition for Trade......................................... Sonnenberg, Steve, Florsheim §. Co..... Slosberg, Robert H., Ripley Industries, Inc., and Footwear Industries of Amer

Stanwood Corp., Thomas N. Roboz...............................................................................
Starobin, Herman, International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, AFL–CIO.
Travis, Thomas G., United States Apparel Industry Council..................................
United States Apparel Industry Council, Thomas G. Travis........................... ----
Viveiros, Mayor Carlton, Fall River, MA
Washington, State of, Hon. Brian Boyle..............................................................
Western States Land Commissioners Association, Hon. Brian Boyle. ----
Younkers Inc., W. Thomas Gould.................................................................................

SUBMISSIONS FOR THE RECORD

Ablondi, Italo H., Sturgis M. Sobin, and Peter J. Koenig, Taiwan Textile
Federation, joint statement and attachment..........................................................
Alexander, Mary K., Citizens for a Sound Economy, statement............................
Altschuler, Irwin P., and Donald S. Stein, Camara Nacional de la Industria
del Calzado, joint statement and attachments.......................................................
American International Knitters and Yuri Fashions Company, Ltd., Andrew
P. Vance, Matthew T. McGrath, and Vincent Bowen, joint statement.............
American President Lines, Ltd., Michael Diaz, letter..............................................
American Textile Manufacturers Institute, John D. Greenwald, and Robert C.
Cassidy, Jr., joint statement - ---------------------------
Appropriations, Committee on, U.S. House of Representatives, Hon. Jamie
Whitten, chairman, statement..................................................................................
Association of Southeast Asian Nations, Washington Committee, Hon. Em-
manuel N. Pelaez, Ambassador of the Philippines, Hon. Pengiran Dato
Paduka Haji Idriss, Ambassador of Brunei Darussalam, Hon. Tommy Koh,
Ambassador of Singapore, Hon. Soesilo Soedarman, Ambassador of Indone-
sia, Hon. Arsa Sarasin, Ambassador of Thailand, Hon. Albert Talalla, Am-
bassador of Malaysia, joint letter..............................................................................
Ballenger, Hon. Cass, a Representative in Congress from the State of North
Carolina, statement...........................................................................................
Bevill, Hon. Tom, a Representative in Congress from the State of Alabama,
statement..................................................................................................................
Biedermann, Ralph A., Committee for Production Sharing, statement.
Bobbin International Inc., Ronald Segal, letter and attachments..........................
Bodman, Seth M., National Knitwear and Sportswear Association, statement
and attachment
Bowen, Vincent, Andrew P. Vance, Matthew T. McGrath, American Interna-
tional Knitters and Yuri Fashions Company, Ltd., joint statement...
Brown, Doreen L., Consumers for World Trade, statement................. -
Business and Industrial Council, Anthony Harrigan, letter...................................
Camara Nacional de la Industria del Calzado, Irwin P. Altschuler, and Donald
S. Stein, joint statement and attachments..............................................................
Canadian Embassy, Hon. Allan Gotlieb, Ambassador, letter..................................
Caribbean Basin Economic Recovery Act beneficiary countries, Hon. James
2. Lewis, Ambassador, Embassy of Trinidad and Tobago, et al., joint
etter................

turers Institute, joint statement --Cecil Saydah Company, Leslie Alan Glick, statement.............................................. Center for Industrial Competitiveness, James A. Clifton, statement and at

tachment --Citizens for a Sound Economy, Mary K. Alexander, statement Clarke, Hon. James McClure, a Representative in Congress from

North Carolina, statement........................................ -------------------------------------Clifton, James A., Center for Industrial Competitiveness, statement and at

Carolina, statement............................................................................................” Cocheo, Anthony V., Jerie Sales Co., letter................................................................ Committee for Production Sharing, Ralph A. Biedermann, statement................. Consumers for World Trade, Doreen L. Brown, statement.....................................

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