1878. ]

belong to the group which originated in kermesina, the colour of whose flowers may be described as carmine-rose. The brightest of these is SCARLET KING, which has flowers of a particularly brilliant tint, with yellow eye, and associated with the old-fashioned palmatifid leaves; while SUNRISE, which is a fernleaved sort, scarcely falls behind this in the delicacy of its rosy-salmon colouring. These grand varieties, it is said, come true from seed. Another near approach to scarlet has been raised at Chiswick, from seeds of M. Vilmorin's strain.

The system of culture practised at the Sparkhill Nurseries has been thus described: -The compost used is a mixture of burnt earth, stiff loam, old mortar, charcoal, very rotten cow-dung and leaf-soil, well mixed together, the roots having a great liking for the pieces of mortar and charcoal; this compost does not necessitate much drainage, as it

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is sufficiently porous in itself. The crown of the plant is kept low down in the soil in potting, as from this part are thrown out many surface-roots, which add much to their vigour. Seeds are sown at intervals from March until May, so as to insure a succession, the earliest batch furnishing the earliest bloom. Cuttings of special sorts are struck in the spring in a gentle bottom-heat. The plants are grown in a low span-roofed house, with ventilation at the sides as well as at the top, and in brilliant weather the light is subdued by a little shading, too much exposure being avoided. Careful watering is essential, and tepid water is always used, watering over the foliage until the plants begin to flower. Manurewater is used most carefully, for the roots are so sensitive that mischief is soon done from an overdose; it is, however, used frequently, but in a very weak state, and always in a tepid condition.-T. MOORE.

OHE varieties of Picotee which form the subject of our present illustration, are the productions of Mr. Robert Lord, of Todmorden, and will confer an additional lustre on a name already of wide celebrity as the raiser of Ann Lord, Mrs. Lord, Rev. F. D. Horner, and Minnie.

Our friend Mr. Dodwell, in his " Descriptions of the Best Varieties, Old and New," published in our volume for last year, has given at pp. 129, 131, and 158, a full account of the characteristics of these beautiful sorts, and there the interested reader will find all the particulars he can require for the complete development of the beauty our artist has so successfully delineated. The portraits were sketched under the supervision of our friend, and with reference thereto, with some of that enthusiasm which readers of his papers may probably

think characteristic, he writes:-" Mr. Rosenberg deserves high commendation for the excellent portraits he has given us, more especially in the case of Miss Horner. But while Art is delightful, Nature is inimitable, and the spectator will feel the full beauty of their rich translucent white grounds, the depth and fullness and completeness of their form and substance and exquisite markings, only when he has these lovely flowers from Nature's own hand before him."

ALICE (fig. 2), and ZERLINA (fig. 3), were distributed in the autumn of 1876, and are now the possession of almost every cultivator of this much-admired tribe.

MISS HORNER (fig. 1), has, we understand, passed into the possession of Mr. Jonathan Booth, of Failsworth, Manchester, and is now being offered.-T. MOORE.

colour is bright scarlet; the petals very smooth on the edge, forming a good, well-shaped flower. It has a good pod, and does not burst, particularly if the calyx-lobes are just opened at the tip before the flowers expand. This variety will not only be useful for furnishing cut flowers, but it is so robust, and of such a dwarf bushy habit, that it will make an excellent plant for growing in pots for decorative purposes. Indeed,

in October, when they should be put into a cool greenhouse. The plants will then flower freely through the autumn and winter months.JOHN BALL, Slough.

MARKET PLANTS.-I. HYACINTHS, NARCISSI, TULIPS, ETC. NY one walking through Covent

tion to this class of plants, and one which is no doubt destined to become an universal favourite. It is of Continental origin, and will be distributed by Mr. Turner, of the Royal Nurseries, Slough, who has become possessor of of a large amount of fine healthy stock.

year cannot help being struck not only with the quantity of Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissi, Roman Hyacinths, Lily of the Valley, &c., which are sent into the market, but also at the early season of the year when they are to be had, and their general excellent quality. Gardeners who visit the market (and an observant mind can there find much to interest and instruct) are obliged to institute comparisons between what they see, and what they and others are in the habit of producing, to the disThe fact is, the advantage of the latter.

to this A. Alégatière, such as

GUELDER ROSE (Turner), large, pure white, beautifully fringed, very free.

ROSE PERFECTION (Turner), very bright rose. SIR GARNET WOLSELEY (Turner), buff ground, striped and edged with red, large and very fine.

MISS JOLLIFFE (Masters), pale pink, very free. EMPRESS OF GERMANY (Turner), fine large white, slightly marked with bright rose.

The above are quite distinct, and all of very dwarf habit. I might enumerate several others that have very fine flowers, but for the most part they are not of the same dwarf habit as the foregoing.

As Tree Carnations are generally of but little use after the second year of blooming, it is necessary to have a succession of young plants struck from cuttings every season. This should be done as early as possible, in order to obtain good-sized blooming plants for the next season. From the middle of February onwards to the early part of March is the best time to propagate them. They strike readily from pipings if placed on a little gentle bottom-heat. As soon as they are struck, pot them off into small pots, using a mixture of good turfy loam, rotten manure, and a little silver-sand. Keep them in a free growing state, and repot them whenever necessary, until they are in 32-sized, or 6-in., pots, which is a very suitable size to bloom them in. They should be grown in the open air during the summer months until early

reduced to something like a science-it is done rapidly and thoroughly, and with the best results. Let me endeavour to show how these things are done, for the modes of doing them are full of sound teaching.

Before the consignments of Hyacinths and other bulbs are forwarded from abroad to the large trade houses, who take the pick of them, large quantities are sent over to the market growers. As early in August as possible, early white Roman Hyacinths and Double Roman and Single Paper-white Narcissi come over in great numbers, from France chiefly, but some also from Holland. These are grown mainly for cut flowers, and they appear in the market early in October. The Narcissi are the first operated on after their arrival. They are planted in 48-pots, four, five, and six bulbs in a pot, according to their size; there is but little room allowed, but then all the lower portion of the pot is utilised for the purpose, drainage being but of small consequence. In potting, the bulbs are buried to a depth of a little more than one-half. The potting done, a space is cleared in the open ground, generally by the side of a walk, and a layer of cinder-ashes is placed over it. On this the pots are placed close together, so many rows deep, according to the space, and then covered with about six inches of thoroughly decomposed manure and

spent hops mixed together. The rains falling on the covering carry down into the pots rare fertilising influences; the pots are snug and warm; a vigorous root-growth soon commences, followed by the throwing up of strong flowering shoots, which pierce the covering and show above it. They get no attention, not even watering, unless the weather be exceptionally dry; the rains of the late summer and the moist character of the covering keep the roots as damp as is necessary. Then, as soon as the sheath separates and shows the bud, the plants are taken into a stove, placed thickly on a stage, and kept well watered; and there they throw up trusses of bloom which in size and beauty are far beyond what one is accustomed to see in the Paper-white and Double Roman Narcissi grown in the ordinary way. Both are sweetly fragrant, and during November, December, and onwards, the flowers find ready sale in the market. No plants of these are sent there on sale.

Roman Hyacinths are treated somewhat differently. Their charming fragrant white blossoms are the first to appear of the imported roots, and rapid production is the rule. To have flowers only, the bulbs are put thickly in small pans, pots, or boxes, set into a strikingframe in a stove or propagating-house, in a brisk bottom-heat, and in a short time the flowerstems are thrust up almost before a leaf puts in appearance. The plants that are sent into Covent Garden Market so early in the winter are grown in pots, four or so bulbs being placed in a 48-pot, started into growth in heat, and brought on into flower in a rather cooler temperature. Thousands of Roman Hyacinths are grown in this way.

The Tulips, Crocuses, Hyacinths, and laterblooming Polyanthus Narcissi come on about the middle of August. Crocuses are not

much grown; but Tulips in great plenty, especially the white, rose, and scarlet Van Thol, Golden Prince, and one or two other early-flowering varieties. The Hyacinths are of certain early-blooming varieties also.

The Tulips are in the first instance put in shallow wooden boxes, and stood out-of-doors under a coating of dung and hops, in the same way as the early-flowering Narcissi. Some of the Hyacinths and Narcissi are put in boxes also, but the great majority in pots, two or

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three in a pot. All are placed out-of-doors, under the manure covering, to start into growth. The advantage of growing Tulips in boxes is, that as they come into bloom, the earliest of them can be lifted and put into pots. This can be done up to the middle of February. After that, they are planted in and grown on in pots, as they would flag too much after being transplanted when the days lengthen, the sun is bright, and the atmosphere is warmer.

The bulbs may be said to represent the first series of forcings. In the autumn, there are Poinsettias, Cyclamens, Bouvardias, Tuberoses, Mignonette, Richardias, Double White Primulas, Pelargoniums, Eucharis, Gardenias, &c., coming into bloom, and the modes of growing and blooming these shall be treated of in subsequent papers.-RICHARD DEAN, Ealing, W.

VILLA GARDENING-FEBRUARY. "HAT extraordinary weather!" is the

In

remark heard on every hand. the autumn there were not wanting those who predicted a hard winter; but here we have had the atmosphere as soft and balmy as in April, and as far as indications of wintry weather are concerned, they appear to exist as yet only in the imaginings of the prophets. The weather is now favourable to out-door gardening operations, and they should be pushed on without delay.

GREENHOUSE.-A little more fire-heat may be applied when the weather is dull and cold, as many early subjects are advancing into bloom, and a little artificial warmth is of great assistance. Cinerarias, Primulas, and other soft-wooded early-flowering plants, should be kept as near the glass as possible, but where they can have a free circulation of air in favourable weather. In a close atmosphere these plants draw, and green-fly gathers about the shoots. Plenty of water and air should now be given to all things that are growing freely, keeping the lights shut on the side of the wind, so as to avoid cold currents. Hard-wooded plants, and indeed any that have been kept dry all winter, will in many cases need to be plunged to the rim of the pot in a pail of tepid water, to thoroughly moisten the ball of earth before repotting is done. When this is not done in spring, plants like Azaleas, Epacris, and others, that form dense balls of fine roots,

having once got dry, the water never afterwards wets the roots properly, but runs away down the sides of the pots, and after

languishing some time, the plants die altogether. This is a matter that cannot be impressed too closely on the attention of the amateur. Store-plants in pots and cuttingboxes should now be potted off, and any old plants of last year reserved for cuttings should be put into a gentle warmth, to push them into growth. Salvia patens, Petunias, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Chrysanthemums, and other useful plants for the summer garden, can be increased in this way. Examine all plants of free growth for green-fly, and fumigate the house with tobacco-smoke, syringing the plants directly after. A little seed of Lobelia speciosa, Petunia, Phlox Drummondii, Stock, Mignonette, and other popular flowers, should now be sown in a little warmth. In this way, good strong plants can be had by spring, which soon make a display in early summer. Keep soft-wooded plants clear of decaying leaves, and stir the surface-soil occasionally.

COLD GREENHOUSE.-Here things are mostly quiet, and it is best for them to remain so, with the exception of such as are nearly hardy. Crocus Imperati, Anemone fulgens, Hepaticas, and some of the early-flowering Violas are pretty things for the cold house just now. Water sparingly at present. Amateur gardeners are strongly tempted to give good soakings, in their impatience to see the plants making headway; but the winter is by no means past, and there is no knowing how soon frost may appear on the scene. Patience is a virtue in plant-growing, as in many other things.

FLOWER-GARDEN.-In drying weather lightly fork flower borders, but beware of doing injury to the crowns of plants beginning to swell with growth. If the wet weather has delayed any planting, let it be done at once. The impulse to grow will soon be strong in many plants, and they should be in the soil without delay. Frosts tends to throw newly-planted subjects up out of the soil; as soon as it thaws, they should be pressed down firmly. Many things are lost in this way, as the worms complete the work of ejectment commenced by the frosts. The villa gardener must now look ahead. Dahlias should be set to work in a dung-frame about the middle or end of the month, and in this frame such seeds may be placed as there is not room for in the warm greenhouse. Now is the time to sow a little seed of such useful perennials as Aquilegias, Canterbury Bells, Delphinium, Foxglove, Campanulas, &c., so as to have good strong plants to put out in May. If the beds for spring display are not planted, let it be done at once. Good Daisies, Wallflowers, Pansies, and Polyanthuses can now be had in plenty and at a cheap rate, and there is good time for the plants to get well-rooted before the blooming

season.

Cut back hardy Clematises, thin out climbing Roses, and get all hardy creepers put trim and straight for the spring.

COLD FRAMES.-Carnations and Picotees in pots waiting to be planted in larger pots for blooming in the summer should have plenty of air, and the foliage be kept clean; any intended for the open border should be planted out towards the end of the month. Now is the time to pot up a few plants of Violets, Myosotis dissitiflora, Dielytra spectabilis, Anemone fulgens, Cheiranthus Marshallii, Sarifraga granulata flore-pleno, Iris pumila, and the many other early-flowering hardy plants that are so charming in early spring. They come into bloom before those in the open air, and their flowers are safe from injury from frost. Lilies may be repotted towards the end of the month. Primula amana and its varieties are now making growth, and plenty of air should be given them. If not already done, repot at once, but it is always best to do this in October. Auriculas may still be kept fairly dry and near the glass, with plenty of air. If excited into growth early, a check sometimes comes, and the plants rarely bloom so finely in consequence. Keep the surface-soil of the pots stirred, and on no account allow anything to become drawn for want of air.

KITCHEN GARDEN.-Plant a few early Potatos on a warm border, but instead of rank manure, use as fertilisers charred rubbish, old mortar, soot, lime, &c., mixed together, spreading a dressing of this and leaf-mould over the tubers. In a warm spot sow a few Seville Longpod Beans, Wood's Frame Radish, French Horn Carrot, Reading Onion, and Paris Cos Lettuce. Make new Asparagus beds, plantations of rhubarb, beds of herbs, &c. Some of the earliest of the established roots of rhubarb may now be covered with seakale pots or cement casks, and some dung and leaves placed about them for forcing. Sow a few Advancer, Princess Royal, and James's Prolific Peas. These excellent quality. Use the hoe freely among are good early dwarf free-branching sorts of growing crops.

FRUIT GARDEN.-Let the pruning of all fruit trees be pushed on in favourable weather, so that all planting among or near the trees can be proceeded with as desired.-Suburbanus.