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And now, with regard to the training-in of young shoots for future fruit-bearing purposes, we have to remember that although such shoots will occasionally produce fruit-buds on the first year's growth, yet they are only exceptions, and caused by some extraneous pressure opposed to nature; and that, as a rule, the young shoots will only form fruitful buds the year succeeding that in which they are laid in. Here comes a very important consideration in the art of pruning. It is often recommended by the clever, practical men of the day to keep the trees thin of wood, and this is perfectly legitimate and good advice, because the practice affords a proper scope for the two series of young shoots -viz., those which are to produce fruit this year, and the young growth to succeed in due course. Hence it is obvious that pruning is not the hap-hazard affair which many affect to believe, but is capable of being reduced to scientific principles, in the carrying-out of which we have to study and maintain those which are indispensable, and make those conditions which are inevitable subservient to them. Such are pruning, training, washing, and attention to the roots, the latter an important consideration in the case of fan-trained Plum trees, well furnished, and occupying large spaces of walls, which will bear a large amount of surface-dressing with great advantage. On this subject I hope to enter rather more at large in my next paper, in which I purpose to treat of the CHERRY as a wall fruit. -JOHN Cox, Redleaf.

JASMINUM SAMBAC FLOREPLENO.

MONGST sweet-smelling plants, there are few that possess such an exquisite perfume as this Jasmine. Its scent is not so powerful as that yielded by some things, but there is a delicacy about it held by many people to be unequalled. It has not been so generally met with in gardens where there exists the means for growing stove plants as might be expected, the reason for which may be set down to its not being so showy-looking as many subjects, which, on this account, get the preference. There has, however, recently been a disposition evinced by many cultivators to select plants more in accordance with their intrinsic merits, than simply for their general appearance, however taking to the eye that may happen to be. This is evidently the right course, for although bright colours and pleasing forms will always, as they ought, be held in due estimation, yet it seems an anomaly to find, as is not unfrequently the

JASMINUM SAMBAC FLORE-PLENO.

at once, as many plants do, its flowers are produced in succession over so long a period that all can be used for cutting, for which purpose it is well adapted. In bouquet work it is particularly useful. In size the flowers are not unlike those of a Tuberose, white in colour, and produced from almost every bit of growth. that is formed. When a shoot bearing bloom is cut, the plant at once pushes young wood from the joint below, which in turn sets buds, when it has extended a few joints. It is a spare rooter, never requiring nearly so much room as the stronger-growing species, and is best adapted for training up a pillar in the stove or intermediate house, in which position it may either have its roots confined in a pot or be planted out, but in the latter case it should only have a limited space for its roots.

I have found this species to grow more freely in good fibrous loam than in peat, with some fully rotten manure, and sand added proportionate to the nature of the loam. Cuttings may be struck at any time they can be obtained, but blooming almost continuously more or less during the season of growth, especially in the summer, there is often a difficulty in getting young shoots that are not disposed to flower, and on that account not well adapted for growing freely after they have formed

roots. About the end of March, or the beginning of April, old plants will generally have made some young growths that are not so much inclined to bloom as later on. If these are taken off with a heel when some 4 in. or 5 in. long, and inserted in small pots, well drained, and half filled with a mixture of sand and loam, the space above all sand, kept moderately close, moist, and shaded, under a propagating-glass in a temperature of 70°, they will root in a few weeks; when they should gradually be inured to do without the glass, and as soon as they are fully established moved into 3-in. or 4-in. pots, using good soil, such as already advised. Place them where they will get plenty of light, giving them air in the middle of the day, and as the sun gets more powerful, a little shade also will be an advantage. Syringe daily overhead, and stop the points when they have reached 10 in. or 12 in. in height. As the weather gets warmer, give more heat; they will bear as much as most ordinary stove-plants. At the beginning of July give them 6-in. pots, again stopping the shoots. Continue to treat as above directed until the autumn approaches, when shading and syringing must be discontinued, and a little more air given. As the season advances reduce the temperature, which may be 60° right through the winter. Again increase the heat in the spring, and when the roots show signs of requiring more room, move into pots 2 in. or 3 in. larger, treating them in the matters of heat, moisture, and shade as during the previous summer, and giving another shift when it seems to be required. If wanted to cover a pillar or rafter, the plants may be placed in position during the summer; but if they are to be trained as pot specimens, they will require several tall sticks, which should be inserted near the outside of the ball, winding the shoots round them, and simply stopping any that are inclined to outgrow the rest. All that is further required is to give such additional root-room as may be needed, and to regulate the shoots to the position they occupy.

So treated, the plants will last for a good many years, care being taken not to overpot, or allow the soil to get too wet, for the roots are more delicate than those of many stove-plants. They are liable to the attacks of the insects that infest heat-requiring plants. These must be kept down by syringing and sponging, particularly in the summer, being mindful not to injure the leaves, as this is more prejudicial in its effects to this species of Jasminum than to stronger-growing things.T. BAINES, Southgate,

THE STANDARD TREE-PRUNER. 3T this season of the year, when pruning

operations will require attention, we are glad to have the opportunity of recommending a very useful garden implement, called the Standard Tree-pruner, which will be clearly understood from the accompanying illustrations and description. It has the great merit of strength and rigidity, combined with 4 lb.,; it has the further merits of being lightness, a pruner 10 ft. long weighing but simple in its action and thoroughly efficient; and, being worked with a metal rod, it makes a clean cut, and is not liable to get out of order, like other implements of the same character whose cutting-gear is worked by a cord.

The Standard Tree-pruner has, we have said, the merit of simplicity of action. This will be seen by a reference to the figures. It consists of a pole, hook, metal rod, lever, and blade. "The peculiar construction of the hook will at once commend itself to a practical eye; it is of the best steel, and is made double, so that the knife works in the hook. The benefit thus gained is twofold, viz., it affords the knife, which is also of the best steel, a support on both sides, and likewise permits it to be made very thin, thereby reducing the resistance of the wood, and making an easier and smoother cut than is possible by any

other device. The knife being connected with and operated upon by a metal rod attached to the lever, it will readily be seen that the power afforded is immense, and infinitely greater than is possible to be obtained by an implement worked by a cord or spring, whilst the branch, being encircled by the hook is altogether under the control of the operator, and cannot escape until the portion to be removed is severed."

One great recommendation of the implement will be, that up to a height of 12 ft. or 14 ft. it does away with the necessity for steps and ladders, and thus greatly facilitates the execution of the work. In using it, the hook should be placed over the twig or branchlet to

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be cut, and the lever drawn down; and in this way, wood 1 in. in diameter may be easily cut, without crushing or splintering. It is also claimed for it that it may be usefully adopted for pruning wall or standard Pear and other fruit trees, without the use of ladders or steps; and where the trees are planted a short dis

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STANDARD TREE-PRUNER.

tance from the path, the pruning can be done without requiring the operator to step upon the border. It may also be used for lopping off low-growing or superfluous branches along carriage-drives and avenues, the serious damage and inconvenience resulting to valuable trees from the use of ladders being entirely obviated. The smaller sizes may be used for pruning Raspberry, Gooseberry, and Rose bushes, the thorns of which are annoying, as well as for trimming Holly Bushes, Laurels, and other ornamental trees. It will be seen that the cutting portion of the blade is that

which works within the curve of the hook, this part being brought upwards by pulling down the lever. We can add, from personal experience, that the implement does its work in a thoroughly efficient manner.-T. MOORE.

MODEL FORM FOR A TULIP. HETHER from defective memory or imperfect acquaintance with the literature and history of the Tulip,

I know not, but Mr. Hepworth, in his paper on this subject (see p. 171), so strangely perverts the facts, that in the interests of the present generation of florists, I crave your permission to correct his errors. Stated in brief, Mr. Hepworth tells us that thirty years ago, the form of the Tulip was a subject of warm but friendly dispute. Mr. Butler, Mr. Glenny, Mr. Slater, and finally, Dr. Hardy, took part in the battle of words, the conclusion being that Glenny's model was "considered to be the best," Glenny having declared "that the correct shape of cup for a good Tulip, when sufficiently in bloom for the exhibition stage, was just onehalf of a hollow ball, and no more."

On this I have to remark that this is not Mr. Glenny's standard at all. Mr. Glenny's standard-set out by him in the Gardener's Gazette in 1841, and subsequently reproduced in the Gardener and Practical Florist for 1843-was this: "The cup [of the Tulip] should form, when quite expanded, one-third of a hollow ball;" and he reasoned for this form at length, and with considerable force, in the paper of 1843. True, at a later date, in the Gardener's Almanack for 1847, Mr. Glenny, instead of condemning the half of a hollow globe, as he had done in 1841 and 1843, contended "that one-third to one-hal of a hollow ball is alike good all through.' But even if a standard, admitting such a latitude of judgment, were not utterly objectionable, Mr. Glenny had propounded another condition, which made it impossible, and entirely at variance with the harmony of Nature. He required that the petals should be level on the margin, and his diagrams represented a "straight-margined cup."

Dr. Hardy demonstrated with a power and lucidity of reasoning beyond all question, that this requirement was in opposition to the laws

of Nature, as seen in the organisation of the petals of the Tulip; and from the hour of the publication of his masterly essay (Midland Florist, 1847, pp. 105, 141), I never heard a question raised as to the standard of perfect form in the Tulip, at any meeting of the National Tulip Society or elsewhere, by any one with the least pretension to speak with authority. My late most intimate friend, Mr. John Frederick Wood, editor of the Midland Florist, himself a writer on the Tulip, and possessed of an experience inferior to no one of his day, and a judge at every meeting of the National Tulip Society, from its institution until he left England in 1855, was the first to proclaim his adhesion to the "Hardy standard,"a standard, indeed, so symmetrical, harmonious, and consistent with reason and cultivated taste, that fault could not be found in, or exception taken to it, and everywhere, where the qualification I have noted existed, it was adopted with acclamation. Summarised, the Hardy standard was as follows, viz. :

1. "Every Tulip, when in its greatest perfection, should be circular in its outline throughout; its depth being equal to half its width across from the tip, or highest point, of one petal to the tip of the other immediately opposite."

2." It should be composed of six petals, three inner and three outer, which shall all be of the same height, and have such a form as will enable them to preserve this circular outline; their edges being even, stiff, and smooth; and their surfaces free from shoulder, or inequality of every kind."

3. "The breadth of the petals shall be amply sufficient to prevent any interstices being seen between them, so long as the flower retains its freshness."

4. "There should be exact uniformity between the outline of the cup and the outline of the upper margin of the petal, which should form an arc or curve, whose radius is equal to half the diameter, or whole depth of the flower."

In later years Dr. Hardy completed his work by contributing papers on the "Markings of the Tulip," and "What Constitutes the Leading Property of the Tulip," papers of which, at some future day, if health and strength admit and I have your permission, I will endeavour, in the interest of younger florists,

to make abstracts, as, like the essays by the Rev. George Jeans, recently published by you, they demonstrate, in the clearest and most simple form, the laws on which the properties of florists' flowers rest, and form a rule and guide for the beginner beyond all question or

mistake.-E. S. DODWELL.

SUBURBAN GARDENING. ECEMBER.-November has proved a very changeable month, with alternations of fog and clear skies, heat and cold, keen north winds and warm south-westerly gales. The leaves that hung thickly on the trees at the beginning of the month are ankledeep in woodland ways; autumn and winter have compounded, the former will soon hand over the reins of government to the latter.

Kitchen Garden.-It appears superfluous to advise the gardener to lose no opportunity of trenching every spare yard of ground devoted to vegetable culture while the weather is favourable, but it is very important to do so. Now also is the time to plant Seakale, Rhubarb, and Asparagus for forcing; and if beds of these can be made in a vinery, providing a gentle bottomheat by means of leaves and a little dung, early crops can be secured. Those who have Lettuces, Cauliflower, &c., in frames will need to watch for slugs; while the weather is mild they will be very active, and work much harm. Advantage should be taken of frosty weather to prune Currant and Gooseberry trees, and if it be necessary to make new plantations of these, the ground should be prepared by trenching it fully two feet deep, adding a good dressing of suitable manure, or any decayed vegetable matter that may have accumulated. Those who sow Beans in the autumn should use the Seville Longpod, and not the Early Mazagan, as is sometimes recommended, the latter not being so early as is generally supposed; and for a Pea, Laxton's William I., instead of Sangster's No. 1.

Fruit Garden.-Those who have to deal with Suburban villa gardens discovered long ago that the garden walls are built up with mortar of the worst description, and that when nails are driven into it it comes away, leaving openings in which insects secrete themselves and take up their winter quarters. Villa gardeners know to their sorrow what a nuisance these pests are in summer. At this time of the year, it is a good plan to draw all the nails, destroy the shreds, and place the nails in boiling water and then in linseed oil, before using them again, and to have the walls pointed over with good mortar. If it is thought inadvisable to do the pruning of Fruit-trees too early, they should be gone over, and any cross shoots and branches cut out, so that air can circulate freely among them. Any fruit-trees infected