SECRETARY WALSINGHAM, in a quilled ruff; the active, penetrating, able, and faithful servant of Queen Elizabeth; the safeguard of her kingdom, as well as person. This patriot statesman was so attentive to the interests of his country, and so negligent of his own, as to die (1590) without leaving enough to defray his funeral expences.

The pleasure grounds were considerably improved by the plastic hand of Brown, whose skill in embellishing garden scenery is particularly displayed in the noble serpentine river, which forms a principal ornament in these grounds, that for beauty, prospect and extent, have been denominated the STow of Bedfordshire. They abound with many fine large trees, and, like the gardens of Stow, in Buckinghamshire, have several architectural ornaments situated in various parts, as obelisks, temples, pantheon, &c. The taste of decorating gardens with such ostentatious objects prevailed in England about the time that these two, and Stourhead, in Wiltshire, were first laid out. The park abounds with wood, and contains a number of deer. In one part is a very fine obelisk, whose situation and height renders it conspicuous through a circuit of several miles.

About a mile and half west of this mansion, is the little village of FLITTON: in the church is the memorial of a very singular instance of longevity. On the floor, near the altar, is a figure, in brass, of an honest steward! a true Vellum in aspect. He appears dressed in a long cloak, trunk breeches, great ruff, and large night-cap. His name was Thomas Hill, a receivergeneral to three Earls of Kent, His character is recorded in these lines:

Aske how he lived, and you shall know his ende,
He dyde a saint to God, to poore a friende.
These lines men know doe truly of him story,
Whom God hath called, and seated now in glory.

He died May 26, 1601. Aged 128.

Adjoining to the church is the mausoleum of the Greys. This consists of a centre and four wings. In one is the tomb of Henry,

the

the fifth Earl of Kent. He is described by Pennant, as a fiery zealot, who sat in judgment on Mary Stuart, and with true bigotry refused her the consolation of her almoner in her last hours. His brutality induced him to give a reluctant assent, to her request of having a few of her domestics to perform their final duties to their dying mistress.

Southward of Flitton is PULLOX-HILL, where, in the beginning of the last century, a gold mine was supposed to have been discovered. This was seized for the king, and leased to a refiner. The first substance found beneath the common earth, appeared like a mixture of clay and iron ore, or smith's cinders. Beneath was a heavy yellowish metal, like talc. This was reported to contain the gold; but the produce being insufficient to defray the expences of working, it was quickly given up.

So faded Hope's gay dreams. The bubble burst,

And all its splendors vanish'd into air.

Some distance from Wrest-House, on the south, is the village. of HIGHAM-GOBION. This little obscure parish, containing almost as few houses as any in the county, is yet famous for being the rectory, retreat, and burial-place, of the great orientalist, Dr. EDMUND CASTELL. This learned divine was the author of the Lexicon Heptaglotton, and had a principal concern in the Polyglot Bible. He was born in 1606, at Hetley, in Cambridgeshire, and was educated at Emanuel College, whence he removed to St. John's. While at this university, he commenced his Lexicon, that memorable proof of his knowledge and industry. He was presented with the rectory of Higham-Gobion in 1663. In 1666 he was appointed King's chaplain, and Arabic professor at Cambridge; and two years afterwards, a prebendary of Canterbury. By intense application to study, he was first deprived of sight, and then of life, in the 68th year of his age. He was buried in the chancel, with an inscription, recording his learning, &c. engraven on a tablet of black marble, placed against the north wall. Thus perish the sons of science. Even the acquirement of knowledge, when pursued beyond the bounds of prudence, is as detrimental

F4

detrimental to human existence, as the irrational conduct of the drunkard and the profligate.

SOUTH-HILL

Is only remarkable from containing the seat of the Torrington family. In the church is the following inscription to the memory of the unfortunate BYNG, who was sacrificed by an infamous ministry to appease the clamours of the people, and divert their attention from the misconduct of the government. He was shot at Portsmouth.

To the perpetual Disgrace of

Public Justice,

The Honourable John Byng,
Vice Admiral of the Blue,
Fell a Martyr to

Political Persecution

On March 14, in the Year 1757,
When Bravery and Loyalty
Were insufficient Securities
For the Life and Honour
Of a naval Officer.

NORTH-HILL.

THE church at this village, dedicated to St. Mary, was made collegiate in the reign of Henry the Fourth: and endowed for the support of a master, warden, and several fellows, by the executors of Sir John Trolly, Knight, and Reginald, his son, as a peace offering for their souls. Its revenues amounted to 611. 5s. 5d.

The painted window in this church is celebrated for having been the workmanship of Oliver. "A name," says Horace Walpole," that can never be omitted when it occurs in any branch of the arts." We suppose he means without eulogium; but the sentence is somewhat obscure. The window is over the communion

table,

under a Gothic arch,

It is disposed in three

table, at the east end of the chancel, with ornaments at the top in stone-work. compartments. The centre contains the arms of Charles the Second; the right-hand division, the arms of the Grocers' company, and of the master and second warden; and the compartment on the left, the arms of Lady Slaney, and of the third and fourth wardens, with the artist's name at the bottom. Beneath the motto, in the centre, is A. D. 1664, 16 Caroli II. and an inscription, purporting, that the window was glazed, and the chancel ceiled and beautified by the company of Grocers, who purchased the impropriation, and settled it for the sole benefit of the church, according to the trust and appointment of the memorable Lady Dame Margaret Slaney. The colors are still very perfect, and the whole in good preservation.

The windows of the RECTORY have been remarked by Mr. Arthur Young, in his Six Weeks' Tour, for being adorned with two small pieces of painted glass by the above artist, each containing a fly, so exquisitely executed, "as to exceed even the power of imagination to conceive." Unqualified praise, like fulsome panegyric, renders defects more striking. The flies are very naturally done, yet hardly worth the notice that has been taken of them. One is a common house fly, painted in the centre of a dial on very ordinary green glass; the other a larger fly, with two cherries before it in the middle of another dial, on the same kind of glass. The wings are painted on one side, and the body and legs on the other, which causes a deception. The dials bear the mottoes, "Dam spectus fugio," and "Sic transit gloria mundi," On the bottom of one of them is "John Oliver fecit;" and at the top," 1664." When the artist executed the window for the company, it is probable that he gave the dials to the rector to ornament the different sides of his house. Paintings of this nature are not uncommon. We have seen one exceedingly well represented in the dining-room window of Mr. Harold, Bookseller, at Marlborough; and others in various places. The rectory at NorthHill has been lately rebuilt, and the above paintings are now lying useless.

WARDEN

WARDEN ABBEY, seated nearly midway between the two latter places, was formerly a very extensive and considerable monastery; but the destroying hand of Time has nearly demolished it: two rooms, and a staircase, are the only parts which remain perfect. It was founded, in 1135, by Walter Espec for Cistercian Monks. At the dissolution, its revenues were valued at 3891. 16s. 6d. per annum. The estate was purchased by the late Samuel Whitbread, Esq. who was very desirous of preserving the ancient remains. Some curious figured stones, subterranean passages, &c. have been discovered at different times, as the earth has been dug away in the vicinity of the ruins.

BIGGLESWADE

Is agreeably situated on the river Ivel, which has been made navigable to the town by act of parliament. Coals, timber, and oats, are the principal commodities brought by the stream for the supply of this place and its neighbourhood.

This is a large and increasing town: its situation on the north road has contributed to augment its population; and the continual passage of travellers has added to its prosperity and wealth. An extensive market, and four annual fairs, have still further increased its affluence, by furnishing opportunity for the ready disposal of its productions; and also, from the expenditure of the influx of strangers, which the above privileges have drawn within its circle.

Of its ancient history no particulars have come to our knowledge. The origin of but very few towns can be distinguished with certainty; the meagre records of our forefathers having mostly perished in the numerous revolutions, and storms of civil war, which the malignant passions of the human heart have, at times, brought upon our country. Neither is the increase of residences always noted. Hamlets become villages, and villages become towns, by insensible degrees. By slow and gradual operation, the conveniencies of man are multiplied; nor are we regardful of the change, till the intermediate stages are passed, and the mind, by a sudden effort, recurs to the distant period, when

certain