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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO RIO JANEIRO.
Start from Southampton Lisbon-Fellow-passengers → Madeira —
Divers-A Jump for it-Teneriffe-Flying-fish-St. Vincent-
Dryness of the Island-Whales-Fernando Noronha Pernambuco-
A Gala Day- Pineapples - Jangadas - Bahia-Oranges → Cadeiras
- Earthquake of Mendoza -Fate of M. Bravart-Cape Frio-Rio
Beauty of the Harbour - Noisy Negroes coaling the
Janeiro
-
CHAPTER II.
ARRIVAL AT BUENOS AYRES.
The Market at Rio-Feather Flowers Hotels Carriages Gardens
-Aqueduct-Business Activity-Purification of Rio-Yellow Fever
-The Consul's House-A Cruise in the Harbour- The Sugarloaf
Mountain Botafogo Bay - Feat of a Midshipman Transfer to the
'Mersey' — A heavy Swell- Cape Pigeons and Albatrosses-Story of
Alpacas and Llamas -Lobos Island-Montevideo- Quarantine-
The Pampero-The Paraguay, Paranà, and Uruguay - Shallowness
of the Rio de la Plata - Land at Buenos Ayres
. 23
CHAPTER III.
LIFE AT BUENOS AYRES.
Civility of Custom-house Officers - Streets of Buenos Ayres — The
Plaza de la Victoria — The Foreigners' Club — Sugarplums and Matè
The Bolsa-Downward progress of the paper Dollar - Religious
The Recoleta -'Assassinated by his Friends'- A Buenos
Ayrean Quinta -The Ombu Tree-Pamperos and Dust-storms
Cricketers abroad-A dead Horse-First view of Flamingoes
Liberty
PAGE 43
CHAPTER IV.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF BUENOS AYRES.
Visit to a Saladero-Driving in Cattle-The Slaughter — Rapid Dis-
appearance Jerked Beef- Buenos Ayrean Butchers - Villainous
Dogs-French Sportsmen - The 25th of May - Political Dis-
turbances -Anomalous position of Foreigners - Outbreak at San Juan
-The National Guard-Ball at the Progreso Club-Display in the
Plaza - Jugglers and Fireworks - Safety in the Streets-Steamers
seized. A Visit to Montevideo - M. Buschenthal's
Amateur Concert
Quinta-
67
CHAPTER V.
VISIT TO THE CAMP.
--
Panic about Urquiza — Seizure of Horses -Scarcity of Labour-Review
in the Plaza - Doubts about Cordova - An intercepted Despatch -
General Mitre marches with his Army- Expedition to Monte Grande
― Tiru-Teros — Biscachos - Pampas Owls - Pantanos — Wildfowl
Stores - Evening - The Recado - Bridle, Bit, and Spurs - The
Revenque-Maneas and silver Ornaments
95
CHAPTER VI.
RIDING AND SHOOTING.
A coming Storm-A friendly Roof-Armadillos-Ducks-Fla-
mingoes- Bad Weather-Still worse-Dead Sheep-Eley's Cart-
XV
CHAPTER VI. continued.
ridges-Fop and the Nutria-Biscacho Shooting-Their friendship
with the Owls-A Gallop-Visiting in the Pampas-Packing the
Bullock-cart-Peaches and Flowers-Return to Buenos Ayres
PAGE 117
CHAPTER VII.
AN ESTANCIA IN THE BANDA ORIENTAL.
A Visit to the Banda Oriental, or Republic of the Uruguay - Lonely
Islands-Conception-Urquiza's Property-Paysandu -Swimming
a Horse - Where is the Port?-The 'Forest Primeval'-Robinson
Crusoe The Rescue-The Land of Thorns -Vegetation - Arrival
at the Estancia-Partridges - Catching our Breakfast, and killing
the same―The Aroma — The large Partridge — Parrot Pie — Cap-
inchos - Jaguars Crescientes - Adventures of an Invalid - The
faithful Murderer How to get Home in the dark
136
CHAPTER VIII.
LIFE IN THE BANDA ORIENTAL.
A Ride to the Puestos-Ostriches and Deer-Imitating Indians—
Results of charging a Bull-A fighting Servant-Character of
Gauchos Their Holidays and their Quarrels - The Knife - Marking
Lambs-Mule-breeding-Ravages of Ants-The Bicho Colorado-
Mounting a Colt-Away to the Uruguay-The Golden Fleece-Trees
and Flowers-The Forest-Run away with in the Forest-An
agreeable Evening - Great Thunder-storm-Arrival of Letters- Re-
turn to Buenos Ayres
164
CHAPTER IX.
GAUCHOS AND WAR.
Fortifications of Buenos Ayres-Training of a Gaucho-His indepen-
dence-Long Rides - The Rastreador and Vaqueano-General Rivera
-Civilisation and the Sword—General Urquiza—El Cañon Tiene
la Palabra!-Railway to Merlo - Peach Woods-Productiveness
of Corn-Solemnities at the Cathedral - Question of Paraguay —
High Prices-Alarming Reports - Calmness of Hernandez- Victory!
Prisoners-General Glorification-Resolve to return to Brazil
192
CHAPTER X.
RETURN TO BRAZIL.
Start in the Mersey '- Strange Colour in the Water-Land-birds
blown off Shore in a Gale - Heavy Sea - Engineers from Paraguay
-A Man buried at Sea-Entrance to Rio-Want of Hotels-
Jenny the Monkey - Off for Petropolis - Mauà Railway-Beauti-
ful Road-Climate and Elevation of Brazil - Historical Sketch-
Huguenots at Rio Janeiro - The House of Braganza-Dom Pedro I.
Constitutional Emperor - Dom Pedro II. The Slave-labour
Question-Attempts to import Colonists from Europe - Condition
of Slaves
PAGE 216
CHAPTER XI.
SCENERY OF THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.
Petropolis-Head-quarters with the Turk -A Brazilian Garden.
The Presidencia-Ferns and Lycopodia - Bamboos, Orchids, Palms,
and Bananas-Burning Forests Birds and Butterflies - Climbing
Ants - The Falls of Itamarity - Rain- Frogs and Toads-Fireflies
— The Alto do Imperador — Mountains again — Beware of Insects
A severe Remedy - Carapatos and Jiggers-Yankee
- Snakes
Experience
241
CHAPTER XII.
VISIT TO THERESOPOLIS.
Start for Theresopolis-Wallets and Holsters-Boots and Umbrellas
-Aloes, Araucarias, and Daturas-Correa-Gigantic Fig-tree-
Mules and Coffee - A Mountain-stream and Flowers-The Castor-Oil
Tree-A Horse breaks down-Summit of the Pass among the Organ
Mountains-The shade of the Forest-Stuck in the Mud-English
Beer- Hospitable Reception - The Organ Peaks- The Cabeza del
Frayle-Height of the Organs' Jolly Heath' - Guide, Philosopher,
and Friend-Acting Charades -A motley Audience-The Return-
A rough Luncheon - A wet Gallop back to Petropolis
262