flowers imported from all parts of the world, and has paid special attention to the cultivation of good fruit. The approach to his house was by a broad path bordered by shrubberies and Australian gum-trees, which, though young, seemed to be growing wonderfully fast, and showed that a large importation of them would be of great advantage to the countries of La Plata, where, as a general rule, want of wood is one of the most serious defects. The house itself seemed perfect as a summer retreat in a warm climate, ornamented with works of art and surrounded by gardens, while a magnificent ombù in front afforded cool and impenetrable shade. The grounds were kept in high order by a staff of French gardeners, who very civilly answered our questions. Most of the European fruits were produced here in large quantities, but the secret of the success of many of them seems to consist in keeping the trees small by close pruning; the sap has then a shorter distance to travel, and is consequently less likely to be dried up by the excessive heat of a Montevidean summer. This hint may be useful to many who may wish to cultivate European fruit in warm countries. Long winding walks led among luxuriant masses of flowers and flowering shrubs, and orange-trees growing in all directions to add colour and fragrance to the scene. After a very pleasant afternoon we returned to Montevideo, where a feast awaited us. The landlord of 6 the Hotel Oriental had honoured my friend by procuring an anchoa, something like a salmon, and by far the best fish in that part of the world: like most good things, however, it is not always to be met with. We were fortunate; and when the banquet was finished, with a dish of Alpine strawberries and a bottle of Burgundy, we felt that we had dined indeed, and were in a contented frame of mind for returning that night by the Mississippi' to Buenos Ayres, where we arrived at about six in the morning. Before parting with the 'Mississippi,' I ought to say that she was provided with an ingenious instrument for registering the number of revolutions made by the engines. There were six square holes in a row, and tables of figures behind were so disposed as to mark the correct number. Every stroke of the piston added one to this by making the necessary changes in the figures, which would thus go on increasing up to 999999, when they must begin again. A few days after this a grand amateur concert was given in the Colon Theatre, for the benefit of the sufferers by the earthquake at Mendoza, which afforded a good opportunity of observing the beauties of Buenos Ayres, and their taste for music. The large and handsome theatre with its open boxes presented a charming spectacle; enormous prices had been paid for places, but every seat was occupied; beauty and fashion were most ably represented, and the concert itself was admirably conducted. The stage was occupied by a full AN AMATEUR CONCERT. 93 chorus of ladies and gentlemen, who, as well as the solo performers, were strictly amateurs. Everything went well, but one of the most brilliant successes was a triple duet on three grand pianos, with two young ladies at each. The national hymn was sung, and sung well; but in spite of the exciting times it produced very little enthusiasm: two or three people said 'Bravo,' but even this seemed more as a compliment to the singers than anything else. As usual there was plenty of Libertad,' &c., but no one seemed to care very much about it. Altogether the concert was a grand success, and produced a large sum of money; and though it lasted till one o'clock in the morning, I think everyone in the audience was heartily sorry when it came to an end. I find that such a large number of English people cannot divest themselves of the erroneous idea that society in the cities of the River Plate is semi-barbarous, that, in remembrance of the many charming acquaintances I made there, it is a peculiar pleasure to attempt to disprove the popular view. Another fact will, perhaps, aid me. A brilliant bazaar was got up two years ago, for the purpose of assisting to build an English hospital. English ladies were supported by their Spanish friends, and the result was a contribution of 1,500l. to the hospital fund. Aided by liberal subscriptions from individuals, and supported by the goodwill of the Buenos Ayrean Government, this hospital was in full working order before I left the country, and in a state to reflect the highest credit upon its founders. Such works as these in a distant country are worthy of all praise, and are alone sufficient to vindicate the territory of La Plata from the unfounded supposition of semibarbarism. CHAPTER V. VISIT TO THE CAMP. PANIC ABOUT URQUIZA - SEIZURE OF HORSES - SCARCITY OF EVENING THE RECADO-BRIDLE, BIT, AND SPURS-THE REVENQUE A BOUT this time we had fresh news from Entre Rios, where it appeared that Urquiza had been collecting his troops, and was quite ready to cross the Paranà with the Federal army, which had been excited to fever-point by the well-known principle of giving them no pay till they could get it for themselves by the plunder of the enemy. The excitement increased daily; some people thought that Urquiza would take the initiative, and come down the river without a moment's notice, and others argued that he would let the Buenos Ayreans march out to meet him; that he would give them a sound thrashing in the field, and then bring all his hungry hordes for the sack and pillage of the city. Either of these alternatives was enough to strike |