A TRAVELLING CIRCUS. 353 should fill their ships with cavalry soldiers, and put him, a sailor, in command of the post-office! He evidently thought he was not the right man in the right place. After visiting his garden, which was full of oranges and figs, and ornamented with Cape jasmines just coming into flower, we concluded an agreeable visit, and returned to the port. The little steamer which brought us from Paranà was to return about four o'clock, and whilst waiting for that time, we refreshed ourselves in a small and dirty café near the water-side. It was kept by an Italian, with a handsome French wife, who did the honours of the house with all the animation of her race. She had the assistance of a very pretty sister, who had been married only two days before; and as the little world of Santa Fe had at last finished its siesta, several visitors came in to have a glass of wine and amuse themselves by joking with the bride, who certainly evinced not the slightest symptoms of shyness. The dresses of these young ladies were somewhat peculiar; they were made of very gaudy muslin, fitting quite tight to below the hips, whence they were suddenly distended by enormous crinolines. In due time we went on board our vessel, and had a pleasant run down the river, arriving at Paranà in time to have a very welcome dinner with the officers of the 'Ardent.' About nine o'clock in the evening I went on shore with Mr. Boyd, and we wound up the day by going to a A A travelling circus, which was astonishing the good people of the town. A small payment admitted us to the performances, and we found ourselves in a place which could scarcely be surpassed in simplicity of arrangement. A pole had been planted in the middle of a square enclosure, which was surrounded by a wall, but not favoured with a roof. A hoop supporting about twenty common candles was suspended from the pole, and the stars above assisted the illumination. The performances were few and far between, and very much the worst that I have ever seen. The company stood round a rude ring, and the performers mixed with them very affably, till after a long effort of an abominable band, they mounted their horses and revolved in the circus. Many a gaucho would have beaten them in horsemanship, but the people seemed highly amused with the spangled dresses and the rough jests of a Spanish clown. In the course of the next few days we made several visits to see after the state of the diligencia for Nogoyà. The progress was very slow and eminently unsatisfactory; but we were always told that everything would soon be ready, that we should have very good places, and that there would be only one passenger beside ourselves. One day, however, I heard that a native family wishing to cross the province had engaged six places, and I knew this would leave no room for us. Here was an end of all our care and watching. We 'SIC VOS NON VOBIS.' 355 had worried the coach-mender, and looked after the details of his work; but others were to reap the benefit. 'Sic vos non vobis nidificatis, aves!' Highly indignant, I went to find my friend, that we might join in a grand remonstrance, but on the way I met our former companion, the Scotch engineer of Urquiza, who told me that he knew a certain Don Martin, who was going to Nogoyà with a Paraguayan gentleman in a private carriage, and would probably take us also for a moderate consideration. He showed the way to the premises of Don Martin, who turned out to be a very pleasant little man, and was the owner of sundry shabby vehicles of different descriptions. He took us across a yard, full of lumber and rubbish, and pointed out the carriage in which he proposed to carry the Paraguayan and his fortunes. It was a small and dirty affair, but he declared he could take us all. The matter of luggage was the most serious question; for the Paraguayan had an enormous box, which would monopolise the stern of the carriage, and leave no room for our portmanteaus. Finally, it was agreed that for thirty Bolivian dollars (about five guineas) we should have another vehicle for ourselves, all travelling in company as far as Nogoyà, which was said to be about thirty leagues distant. I had spent a very pleasant week, and was exceedingly reluctant to leave behind me the kind hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Thornton; but part of our plan was to go through Entre Rios, and my companion's time was more limited than my own. Many doubts were suggested of the prudence and safety of our expedition; and it was even hinted that if we fell in with any of Urquiza's soldiery, the least evil that might befall us would be the seizure of our horses, and our consequent abandonment in the midst of uninhabited plains! We took the best precautions that we could: Mr. Thornton gave us a good recommendation in Spanish, which would help us if we came in the way of any of the authorities, and we had pistols at hand to spoil the sport of more ordinary ruffians. As the weather was exceedingly hot, it was arranged that we should start at four o'clock in the morning; and, therefore, after another delightful evening ramble among the pretty environs of Paranà, we bade farewell to our kind friends, and spent the night together at the fonda, in order to be ready for an early move. We had a good many little arrangements to make; and we found packing and sorting such hot work, even at night, and in our shirt-sleeves, that we advanced very slowly, and it was past midnight when the trunks were locked. We then sate down at an open window to cool our bodies with the night air, and to compose our minds with the assistance of a cigar. Both these objects were attained in the course of an hour, after which we stretched ourselves on our beds for a short repose. CHAPTER XVI. TRAVELLING IN ENTRE RIOS. START FROM PARANA-WANT OF WATER-MUDDY PONDS-AR- OON after three o'clock in the morning, we were SOON ready for Don Martin, who was rather behind time in coming for us. At last he came. Our trunks were firmly tied on a board behind the carriage; and, taking with us a bottle of wine and a piece of cold meat, we started through the silent streets a little before five o'clock. Don Martin drove the first carriage, with the Paraguayan and his goods; the latter consisting of an enormous box and a grey parrot. The driver of our carriage turned out to be a Swiss, from the Canton of Berne, with whom, in the course of the day, I had a |