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there; but here, as everywhere else, we are expected to spend, and a large class has sprung up which depends almost entirely on our expenditure. They are not by any means pleased with us if we do not spend' freely. In England the Germans seek in shoals a participation of our wealth. I know not if it be statistically correct, but the Germans here themselves assert that there are not less than forty or fifty thousand of their countrymen in London ; that Whitechapel is half populated with them, and that Manchester has its ten thousand Germans. All these are close, practical, fast-sticking fellows, who, like the Scotch, are enthusiasts regarding all that belongs to their own country, yet never care to return to it. Their affection, like that of Coleridge for his wife and children, is too tender to allow them to live together. Of these same lovers of the Fatherland, but deeper lovers of themselves, we remind our poetical readers, once more, that there is a large class expecting them in that country, and we therefore bid those that are going think first of the pounds and afterwards of the poetry.
Having, therefore, resolved to carry with you as little poetic luggage as possible, the next thing is to follow the same rule regarding your other luggage. It is always a question with those who are intending to spend a considerable period abroad, what shall we take with us? We here answer, as little as possible. It is true that the steamers allow you, each person, a hundred weight of luggage; and people therefore think, we may as well take this, that, and the other; but they should recollect that railroads do not allow so much, often nothing, -as through Belgium,—that diligences allow but little, and hired coachmen expect fares in proportion to your weighty packages. You should recollect too that there are such things as custom-house officers, and that the more you have with you, the more chances of having duty to pay, and at the least, the more annoyance of searching and overhauling. What you really should take, is a good stock of clothes, a good quantity of household linen, though you may purchase that too about as reasonably as here; a good set or two of table knives and forks, for those of the country are wretched; and a supply of plate for daily use. Those who keep a private medicine chest at home had better take it, for the pharmaceutical preparations are infinitely inferior to ours. Some persons take sets of china with them; but this is liable to get broken, will have on reaching the frontiers of Germany to be put into what is called transitu, that is, be sealed up, and sent on by a common carrier at your expense,
after all be much better bought for your household use, and sold again when you leave. During your abode abroad, all sorts of things will accumulate that you wish to bring home, and you will find on arriving at London that freight and duty will amount to a considerable sum. Though I paid little or nothing on this score on going out, it cost me on my return, in freight and duty, about fifty pounds. Above all things, amongst those articles which you should not take with you, are English servants. Take none, or at most one confidential and well-tried one. All experience teaches the grievous mistake of taking English servants into Germany. Many a one who is a good servant here, is there good for nothing, a fish out of water, discontented with every thing, and home sick. It is then no easy matter to get them back again. They have not the same object that you have to make a foreign sojourn interesting. They are comparatively useless to you, because they are ignorant both of the language and the habits of the people that you are amongst.
you are amongst. They cannot go on errands, or shop for you. And besides being useless, they are often most annoying by their wretched, discontented looks and complaints. The Martha Penny in Hood's “Up the Rhine,” is a perfect specimen of female servants under these circumstances. We had a Martha too, exactly a Martha Penny. An excellent servant she was at home, but the moment she set foot in the boat at the Tower Stairs, all her virtue, as if it belonged to the English ground, forsook her. She was worse than useless on the voyage, and when arrived at our destination she went about with the gait and the face of despair. But as a matter of convenience and economy, the taking of English servants is most unwise. An English housemaid will cost you 121. a year, a cook from 161. to 201. Their fare out and back will not be less than 81. each, that is, an English maid-servant will cost you from 201. to 281. for a year, and it is two to one if you keep her three months, but will be glad to send her home; while for a German housemaid you will give 4l. or 51.; for an excellent cook 81. These servants will know how to do anything you want doing; and can help you in intercourse with the natives, while English ones are totally useless. The wages of men servants in the same proportion.
In this chapter I will not pause to ask where or why you are going, but as you are going, and have your luggage put up, I have only to add, look well after it. The Germans, as a people, are a very honest people; but they never did, nor do now, profess to have none of the
amongst them. A lady of my acquaintance, after dosing herself well with German poetry, set out for that country with the most angelic ideas of the honest Germans, which were not disturbed, luckily, till she remarked certain bunches of thorns stuck into the cherry-trees by the way-side, and on inquiring received the alarming answer that they were to keep boys out of the trees when the cherries were ripe. My friend, who had also imbued herself with the Wordsworthian, as well as the German poetry, immediately exclaimed to herself—"0! the child is father to the man. Those who pick cherries, may also pick pockets, and she wisely began to take good care of her own. Of all quarters of Germany, the one by which the great mass of our countrymen enter it, is that of the Rhine; and this is precisely the most dishonest portion of the whole country. I have travelled through alınost all parts of the nation during an abode of three years, with my family, and lost nothing at all with the exception of a few trifles which naturally vanish at the inns of great cities; but on the Rhine I have been repeatedly fleeced, and it is indeed a region regarded by the Germans themselves as the most corrupt in principle of the whole land. They attribute this to its exposure to the invasions and inroads from the side of France, which it has from age to age suffered, and to the influx of all sorts of demoralized characters into so great a thoroughfare of nations. In particular the neighbourhood of Cologne is notorious for its light-fingered gentry. first time we came there we witnessed a very adroit piece of these gentlemen's practice. Mrs. Howitt and Miss Clara Novello, who was on her way to Italy, had been to Farina's and purchased some cases of his eau de Cologne. These were sent in and laid on the table in the great dining-room of the hotel while we went out before dinner to view the cathedral. On our return we found one of them broken open and cleared of every bottle, the lid of the case being merely put down again. On calling the landlord, he treated it quite as a matter