mind, and if you fall into perplexity he is still the friend in need. The German in general will stick by his "blood" and kith and kin, and you will get no glimpse of the truth, no bold assistance, except in those few shining exceptions to which I have already alluded; from those noble minds, the salt of the earth, of which I can point to some individual, but rare examples in Germany.

When you do not happen to have the advantage of the advice of some excellent family of your own country, take that of the banker who has been recommended to you, whose interest it is to put you right, and who generally belongs to the best class of people. Even then, in the first instance, prefer a mere quarter's engagement, and whether for that or for a longer period, see that your agreement be made out in English as well as German, if you are not well acquainted with the latter language. Your banker will assist you in this, and it is most important. These agreements are usually made out not only in German but in the written German character, which is one mystery upon another; and if you do not take care, you will probably find by the time that you begin to read the language some strange conditions in it dawning upon you.

If possible, agree expressly for a fixed sum, exclusive of anything more for cleaning, white washing, etc., for anything except actual damage done. The Germans have the singular law, if you do not cove

nant to the contrary, that on going out of furnished lodgings, even after a mere quarter's tenancy, you shall not only wash all floors and such matters, but you shall whitewash all the ceilings, or pay a tarif price of forty-five kreutzers, that is, one and three pence, each. The charge for the washings and whitewashings are a source of continual dispute on going out of German lodgings. If you are leaving the place the demands are often enormous on this head, and of damages, trusting to your not having time or inclination to settle the matter before the police. Other landlords bring in great bills at the last moment for marketing, and doing this and that for you, and for damages to furniture, perhaps more than the furniture is worth. I have known families thrown into the greatest perplexity by a monstrous bill being brought in at the very moment they would set out on their journey home, and believed that they had paid every thing. In one case the master of the family was gone on before, and the ladies, who had to be at the packet at a given hour, were obliged to pay the villanous demand, or they would have been stopped by the police till the case had been examined.

To avoid this there is an excellent means, and indeed a means of accommodation which many families do not learn till they have suffered much inconvenience. There are suites of rooms, as well as entire houses, to be let unfurnished, and there are furniture-brokers who will furnish you your rooms,

or a house, at a few days' notice. If you are intending to spend several years in a place, this is every way the best arrangement. You not only often get far better rooms at a cheaper rate, but you get new furniture of modern and handsome style. In ready furnished rooms the furniture is often very slight, having been made by contract at a cheap rate, and is continually tumbling to pieces, and has to be repaired at your expense. The new wants no repairs, the broker seldom demands half so much if any damage is really done as the regular lodging-house people, for their rickety articles, and the new is usually really at a less rate of charge. Whatever be the rent of the rooms, the furniture should cost you for the first year something less than that rent; and for every succeeding year a very large reduction, something like twenty per cent., is made by the broker in his charges, till in a few years the rent of the furniture is little more than nominal. It is most important to know this, for you often see rooms that you would extremely like if you knew that you could thus expeditiously and advantageously furnish them. There was a time at Heidelberg when I would have sacrificed almost anything to have escaped out of my lodgings, finding that I "had gone down to Jericho and fallen among thieves," but I could find no furnished house or rooms that would accommodate all my family, and I was not aware of this facility, or I could have had twenty suitable houses. I after

wards made the discovery and the change, to my infinite satisfaction. A Mr. Krüdelbach there furnished my rooms, ten in number, at two days' notice, in the handsomest manner, with wholly new furniture; and I never knew a man more honest, honourable, or obliging in all his transactions.

If you do not take an entire house, but a story, as is more customary, and in some respects in a foreign country, more satisfactory, especially in point of security, and an exemption from all cares about taxes, external repairs, and other demands, where you are exposed to most imposition, choose an upper one. If the apartments are good, the very uppermost; especially where it will give, as is often the case, a fine prospect. You must remember that the Germans are a great waltzing people, and in winter have very frequently dancing parties. These, if you do not take care to be above them, will, of course, be just over your heads; and once having experienced one winter of such leaping and thundering over your beds and your evening circles, you will never wish to repeat the trial. Besides, on the common staircases of German houses you are liable to the visits of all sorts of vagabonds, who, if you inquire their business, have always been, or are going to the upper story. When you

have the upper story, they are left without an

excuse.

CHAPTER V.

WHEN you have selected your lodgings you have still your servants and your tradesmen to select, no trifling matter in a foreign country, of whose language you are quite ignorant. These your landlord or landlady will speedily recommend; and by all these, as fresh English, you will be well fleeced, do what you will. The servants who speak English are a class who have learned it on purpose to live with the English, and are generally arrant thieves. They expect English wages, and have a per centage on all the bills they pay for you. Your cook rises at five o'clock in the morning, and goes to market. She buys the worst articles there, and charges you something more than for the best. She has often her kitchen below while your rooms are above, and you have no control over her actions, or a staircase serves her purpose. She and the other servants, who are commonly in league, have their connexions, who expect a good harvest out of the rich English, and are always coming and going with their covered baskets. If you do not take good heed, and it is almost impossible to have