CHAPTER X.

Buffalo Town-Fenning's Tavern-Falls of NiagaraBlack Creek Fort Erie Batavia Vandeventer's Inn-Ganser's Tavern-Lake Seneca. Tiaga PointEldridge's Tavern-Elkland's-Muncy-CattawessyRoaring Creek-Maiden Creek-Bethlehem-Falmouth -Merion.

29th, 11th Month, 1805. In riding along yesterday, a few miles from Buffalo Creek, I thought I could very distinctly hear the noise of the Falls of Niagara, although then about 24 miles from that stupendous cataract. The distance at which the people in these parts say the Falls may be heard, when the wind and other concurring circumstances are favourable, is almost incredible.. I met with a reputable looking farmer, driving a team of four fine oxen upon the road, who told me, with all the gravity of a man speaking the truth, that he sometimes heard them very plainly at his residence, 40 miles distant from them; when the wind was favourable, or the air calm and serene. Last night I came to Crow's tavern in Buffalo Town, on Buffalo Creek, just upon its outlet into Lake Erie. Crow, the keeper of this inn, told me that in calm weather, or when the wind suited, the noise of the Falls was generally heard in Buffalo; which is a distance of 20 miles from them. In this place is commonly a number of Indians, many of them being settled in the neighbourhood, some of whom are accounted clever

farmers. I saw one of these, of the name of Little Billy, a chief, accompanied by his squa, going into a merchant's warehouse, with whom they did business; and I was told, that this Indian raised more horses and horned cattle than any other farmer in the neighbourhood; and had, by this business, acquired considerable property.

11th Month, 30th. After breakfasting at Buf falo Town, I crossed the Rapids, about three miles below Lake Erie. These Rapids are a very considerable River, being at this place nearly one mile over, and conveying a vast body of water, which passes in its course from Lake Eriel to Lake Ontario. I observed, as I rode along, a number of large fishes that were thrown on shore; and saw many ravens hovering about and devouring them. In travelling upon the banks of the Rapids, for many miles, the roaring of the Falls is heard resembling distant thunder. Being in Upper Canada, which is under our own government, it felt to me something like being in England, and occasioned a pleasing sensation. Here I observed a number of good farm-houses; the pastures and the wheat looked remarkably fresh and green, and a large fine herd of cattle. were grazing in the fields. In conversation I found that many of the inhabitants are of German or French descent. In the afternoon I came to Fenning's Tavern at Chippaway, a town on the Creek of that

name. Here is a block-house fortification, at which an English garrison is stationed. From the windows of this tavern, clouds of mist are seen rising from the Falls; and the noise of them is so loud, that a person seems to be close upon them, although they are nearly three miles distant. I was informed by several of Fenning's family, that the concussion occasioned by the descent of so large a body of water, is such, that in a still summer's evening, a constant tremor of the earth is perceptible; and the loose glass in the windows is so shaken as to produce considerable noise.

12th Month, 1st. I lodged last night at Fenning's Tavern, where I had as good accommodation as could be desired. In this family I met with a young man, who had his education in our society, and is a commissioner or surveyor under the English government, for the disposal of lands to new settlers. This young man kindly offered me his company and assistance, in visiting the curiosities in this neighbourhood. However it being first day, and there being no meeting near, I preferred spending the forenoon alone. Therefore, immediately after breakfast, I walked down to the Falls by myself; the tremendous noise, with the volumes of spray and mist arising from them, being a sufficient guide to the spot. The first view of this wonderful cataract, is from the principal road, which, though not the most complete,

is perhaps as beautiful as any; but being from a situation which is level with the river above the Falls, a considerable part of the cataract is hid from the eye. After taking a circuit of about a mile, the path leads down a steep precipice, which is descended with considerable difficulty, and not without the aid of a long ladder, placed there by a neighbouring planter, as well for his own conveniency, as for that of strangers. Immediately below the cataract, the river is confined between two steep rocks that form a deep winding valley, through which the waters flow in their course towards Lake Ontario. This valley is terminated by a perpendicular rock of 53 yards in height, which runs across, forming an angle pointing up the river, over which this vast body of water precipitates itself with astonishing rapidity, and with a noise so tremendous that it can scarcely be described. On the top of the rock is a small island, which divides the cataract into two parts, and in such a manner that the greater part of the water pours over the rocks at the extreme head of the valley, and the rest on one side of it. A little above, opposite Chippaway, the river is two miles but directly above the Falls it narrows to about a mile in breadth. I was informed by Joseph Ellicot and his brother, at whose house I lodged, that they had twice measured the falls, and found them to be 158 feet in height, and about 1800 yards in width from the opposite edges of

over;