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CHAPTER IX.

Genesee Country-Utica-Brothertown-Indian TaleThe Orchard-Indian Inn-Lakes Skaneatedes, Owasco, Seneca, and Canandarque-An Atheist-Holland Land Company-Prairies.

18th of 11th Month, 1805. I crossed the Mohawk river, and travelled about 30 miles on the Genesee Turnpike. Having company I stopped with them at an inn, where we lodged. This inn does no credit to the country.

11th Month, 19th. I was joined by an agreeable young man from Hudson, of the name of Osborne, who is in the practice of the law. He had also in company with him a respectable tradesman from Balls-town Springs; so we travelled along pleasantly through the romantic valley of the Mohawk, and, in our journey, saw a few straggling Indians climbing up the mountains. In the evening we came to the smaller falls of that river, where the navigation is aided by a number of well constructed locks. The fall is about 70 feet. Here is a pretty little town having some good inns, and standing in a most beautiful and romantic situation, somewhat resembling Matlock; but the scenery is more rugged and stupendous..

Here we lodged; and the next morning, the 20th of 11th Month, we set out, along the German

Flats, to Kerseymere, where we breakfasted at a very good inn, although about 200 miles inland. In travelling this road, we sometimes observe vestiges of the devastation formerly made, through the instigations of the English or French Governments, by the Indians, as they were prevailed upon, sometimes by one power and sometimes by the other, to join in their wars and quarrels. How degrading that men, placed in authority, and professing to be the followers of Christ, should be thus employed in working upon the simplicity of the poor Indians! In the afternoon we came to Utica, an improving place, of considerable busi ness, a little distance from Fort Schuyler. In the evening I came to B. S.'s, where I lodged and left the horse which his son so kindly lent me at Albany; having replaced him with one I bought at Fort Schuyler.

11th Month, 21st. This day I passed through Clinton, where I dined; and, in the evening came to an Indian village, called Brothertown. Here I was comfortably accommodated at the house of an Indian, whose name was Obadiah Scipio. His wife Elizabeth, is the daughter of an Indian Chief of the name of Fowler. She was a personable woman and of an expressive countenance, and was very industrious. Her dairy produced excellent cheese and butter, notwithstanding a great part of her time was employed in spin

ning for the family apparel, which was very decent. It was mostly prepared for the weaver by her own household; and, whilst I was in the house, a female weaver of the village, brought in a piece of cloth made from yarn spun in this family, which was such as would have done credit to any female in England. This reputable Indian couple had four fine healthy children, who sat by the fire; and, though of a copper colour, their countenances were far from unpleasing. Their names were Denis, Calvin, Cinthia, and Celinda.

The schoolmaster of this Indian village, who is paid by friends, introduced me to a chief of the name of Hendricks, with whom I had some conversation; and we sat about an hour by the fire-side of a pretty large family of Indians, where it was pleasant to see the spinning-wheel go briskly round. There were 16 or 18 Indians round the fire; the older part of the family sat on a bench in front, and the little Indians on the ground on each side.

The fire was made at the end of the building, and the smoke found its way through the roof, without the aid of a chimney. The walls and roof were hung with ears of Indian corn, and other winter provisions. It is difficult to describe my feelings, on sitting down with an Indian family in this way. In a sympathising

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mind, sensations of pity and compassion will predominate. On the other hand, it is not unlikely that a similar feeling may prevail in the breasts of these children of the forest, towards those who may consider themselves as raised far above them in education and civilized life. It is remarkable that an Indian boy or girl is rarely found willing to change native habits, for those of towns and cities; but there are many instances, I am told, of those who are called civilized people, assimilating their manners with the Indian's; and of giving their mode of life the preference. Man, as man, is a strange and incomprehensible being when left to himself; whether in what is called a savage or a civilized state. In either, when so left, he stands equally a ready instrument, in the hand of the common enemy of the peace and happiness of the world.

I spent the remainder of this evening by Scipio's fire-side, and was accommodated with a good bed at night, on which I slept comfortably. Both the sides and ceiling of that part of the building in which I lodged, were covered with ears of Indian corn in the husk; which, to me, had a novel but not an unpleasant appearance.

11th Month, 22d. I visited the Indian schoolmaster and his school, and was presented with a few specimens of writing. Here I met with a

little poem on an Indian boy, who was sent to Haverford college for his education, which I thought worth copying, it being founded on facts. It is as follows:

From Susquehanna's farthest springs,

Where savage tribes pursue their game
His blanket ty'd with yellow strings,
An Indian of the forest came.

From council grave the fathers rose,

Viewing the hopeful youth with joy;
To Ha'rford's Hall, o'er wastes of snow,
They sent their tawny-coloured boy..

Awhile he wrote, awhile he read,
Awhile he learnt the grammar rules ;
An Indian savage, so well bred,

Much credit promis'd to the schools.

Some said he would in law excel;

And soine in physic thought he'd shine;
Others, who knew him passing well,

Hop'd he might prove a sage divine:

But those of more discerning eye,
Could then far other prospects show,

As oft he threw his Virgil by,

To wander with his dearer bow.

The tedious hours of study spent,
The drowsy lecture haply done,
He to the woods a hunting went;
But sigh'd to see the setting sun,

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